Glamour, gone? Why Singapore's fine dining scene is fizzling out, Michelin stars aren't enough anymore

Independent Singapore

29-07-2025

SINGAPORE: Since its introduction in 2016, the Michelin Guide Singapore has garnered its fair share of praise and criticism. From bestowing Michelin stars on modest hawker kiosks in its initial year to the head-scratching deletion of stars from reputable names, the guide has constantly been a lightning rod for conversation and debate, but this year, the conversation is subdued — more like the gloomy purr of a lukewarm bowl of congee than the sizzling crackle of sambal. A dismal showing: Where's the fresh spark?
According to a recent article from Peak Magazine, this year's Michelin grades land with a mediocre thump. Only two restaurants received a new star, both Japanese and hotel-based, and both similar in their visual appeal. This trifling appraisal comes despite a busy couple of years for Singapore's gastronomic scene, which has seen a surge of Latin American, Korean, and modern Singaporean (mod-Sin) cuisine. One would assume a bolder celebration of this multiplicity — instead, the Michelin Guide seems jammed on repeat.
Unlike in the past editions of the Guide, it brought genuine enthusiasm, what with the pandemic-era promotion of Zen to three stars, the rise of new talents like Seroja's Kevin Wong, and a reliable stream of new one-star beneficiaries. Falling stars and the harsh reality of survival
The 2025 edition of the Michelin Guide also carried more removals than add-ons. Ten restaurants fell from the one-star list, nine of which have shut their doors. The explanations were as real as they are heartbreaking: swelling operational outlays, changing consumer behaviours and preferences, and the ever-increasing call for affordability and value.
Venues like Chef Kang's , Matera , and Shinji by Kanesaka (Bras Basah) are among those that were dropped. Others, like Rhubarb , turned to casual ideas just to survive. These closures expose a distressing reality — a Michelin star, once the gold standard of gastronomic commendation, is no longer an assurance of lasting achievement. As one honest chef puts it, 'Customers are more important than accolades — they are the ones who help keep your restaurant open.'
While the Guide has dropped these names, it didn't fill the gaps. While there's no lack of worthy substitutions, such as Somma , Na Oh , Mustard Seed, and Peach Blossoms that are already making a buzz, they remain starless. Why the reluctance? Losing culinary edge in the region
Setting aside Michelin stars, Singapore's dominance in the international dining arena is starting to wane. Known once as an important cooking hub in Southeast Asia, the Lion City is now overtaken by its neighbours. In the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, Odette remains Singapore's only restaurant included in the top 50.
Meanwhile, Bangkok rushed ahead, boasting six entries on the 50 Best list, including innovators like Gaggan and Potong . Hong Kong, too, is shaking things up with fresher names like Wing ascending the ranks and amassing awards and praises.
By contrast, Singapore continues to bank on the same gastronomic personalities it has depended on for more than ten years — Han Liguang, Malcolm Lee, and Jason Tan. While they deserved the praises and recognition, their sustained reign indicates a lack of revitalisation. While the next generation of chefs is imminent, they come in such a slow pace. Rising stars such as Nicolas Tam (Willow) and Seth Lai (Ce Soir) have gained recognition, but the tempo of change is lethargic. Why? Because the business environment makes it extremely difficult for young chefs to strike out on their own and carve their own path. The choice to support
Notwithstanding the present headwinds, there is light on the horizon. Young local chefs with grit and innovation have emerged. Chef Marcus Leow's Belimbing is pushing mod-Sin cooking into stirring new terrain, while Law Jia-jun of Province is displaying Southeast Asian ingredients with a new, story-driven strategy. These chefs aren't pursuing international trends — they're tunneling deep into local uniqueness and history to produce food that feels unambiguously Singaporean.
Yet, appreciation and recognition are not enough. What's required now is support — from Michelin, from the industry, and from customers themselves. If people continue to be swayed by imported publicity while snubbing home-based talent, the very essence and soul of Singapore's food scene will be lost.
The Michelin Guide's examiners must plunge deeper and engage more evocatively with the local setting. However, the diners also have a role to play — to dine with purpose, interest, and devotion. To believe in Singapore' local chefs not because they have a star, but because they tell Singapore's story through food.
After all, if Singaporeans don't champion their own culinary individuality, who will?