The hero of your winter wardrobe is the garment you might least expect

The Age

5 days ago

The turtleneck has escaped its style sentence as the trusty uniform for women of a certain age who imagine that they're Diane Keaton in a romantic comedy and computer nerds following in the white sneaker steps of Apple founder Steve Jobs.
Also known as the skivvy or polo neck, the turtleneck received a get-out-of-fashion-jail-free card at the Celine runway presentation in Paris during the most recent haute couture season. Extravagant gowns encrusted with pearls or diamonds usually steal the haute couture show, but the debut of American designer Michael Rider at the French fashion house placed humble white turtlenecks front and centre.
Rider may have been inspired by former Celine designer and turtleneck devotee Phoebe Philo but his runway masterclass restored the wardrobe staple of Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe to its former free-spirited glory.
Here's how to style a turtleneck and keep your cool while staying warm.
For beginners: On its own
The easiest way to embrace the turtleneck is to wear it with jeans or trousers as an alternative to bulky jumpers. Remember to balance out the snug fit of a thin turtleneck with straight-leg or wide pants or jeans.
Marilyn Monroe wore her black turtleneck with checked capri pants and Audrey Hepburn with black tights, playing a beatnik in the classic musical Funny Face. Most of us are neither bombshells nor beatniks and more than 60 years have passed, so let's loosen up.
One trend from the last millennium worth holding on to is feminist Gloria Steinem's turtlenecks paired with long, statement silver necklaces from the 1970s. It's not just groovy, it's liberating.
Intermediate: Beneath a jacket
A turtleneck is a streamlined alternative to wearing a blouse beneath a blazer or jacket. When it comes to layering, the thinner the turtleneck the better.
A white turtleneck breaking up double denim looks better than Jake Gyllenhaal breaking up fights in Road House. If you're self-conscious about your curves, try wearing the turtleneck untucked to lengthen your silhouette. Otherwise, tuck it in and break out your best belt.
If you're after a monochrome approach, pairing a white turtleneck with a white jacket, or a black turtleneck with a black jacket, be prepared to play with textures. The cotton, wool or cashmere (if you're fancy) of a turtleneck provides a delightful on-trend contrast with a crackly leather jacket or the sleek satin lapel of a dinner jacket.
Sharon Stone's black turtleneck worn beneath a black velvet jacket at the 1996 Academy Awards remains an inspiration to many stylists for a very good reason.
Expert: Beneath a shirt
The Parisian staple of a white turtleneck beneath a white collared shirt, worn with jeans and leather boots, is the height of trans-seasonal chic. Once again, make sure the turtleneck is fitted but let the shirt billow. Look for a shirt with a classic rather than tailored fit and remember, you can undo as many buttons as you like without having to worry about stiff breezes.
A black turtleneck with a white shirt and jeans also works but be careful of straying into the coastal grandma trend, exemplified by Diane Keaton, of white, on white, on white. If you take this path, be prepared for stares and stains.
For the office, match your trousers with your turtleneck before layering with a white shirt. Grey and black work brilliantly, with white acting as a crisp contrast. Break out the starch because stiff cotton shirts work best with relaxed knits.