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From oily skin to overnight fixes, dermatologist busts 14 skincare myths
In this week's Fact-check Friday, we spoke to Dr Nimesh Mehta, consultant dermatologist at Lilavati Hospital, to debunk 14 of the most common myths that continue to mislead us.
Myth 1: Oily skin doesn't need moisturiser
Fact: Moisturise even if your skin is oily. It's essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier and preventing irritation and breakouts.
'Oily skin still needs hydration,' said Dr Mehta. Skipping moisturiser can actually cause more oil production as your skin overcompensates. The trick is choosing the right formula—look for lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturisers with ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and aloe vera.
Myth 2: Exfoliating more often gives you clearer skin
Fact: Gentle exfoliation = glow. Aggressive scrubbing = damage. Stick to moderation.
'Overdoing it can backfire,' warned Dr Mehta. Over-exfoliation damages the skin barrier and causes redness, irritation, and even breakouts. Instead, opt for chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid or salicylic acid 2–3 times a week.
'Exfoliate 2–3 times weekly to remove dead skin without disrupting your skin's protective barrier. Employ gentle chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid instead of rough physical scrubs. Moisturise and apply sunscreen after exfoliating, as your skin becomes more sensitive to UV damage,' said Dr Mehta.
Myth 3: Natural or DIY ingredients are always safer and more effective
Fact: Natural isn't always better. Science-backed skincare is safer and more reliable.
Just because it's 'natural' doesn't mean it's skin-safe. 'Lemon juice, baking soda, and raw products like cinnamon or honey can cause chemical burns or allergies,' said Dr Mehta. Unlike lab-formulated products, homemade remedies aren't pH-balanced or tested for stability.
'Natural products that are not well-preserved can develop bacteria or mould on your face. Scientifically designed for particular skin issues such as acne, pigmentation, and ageing, ingredients are stabilised, tested, and controlled. Products usually go through clinical trials on safety and effectiveness,' explained Dr Mehta.
Myth 4: Sunscreen is only needed on sunny days or at the beach
Fact: Sunscreen is non-negotiable, think of it as your skin's daily armour.
UV rays penetrate clouds, windows, and even office glass. Dr Mehta advised wearing broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen daily, indoors or out. 'Blue light from screens and indoor lights also contributes to skin ageing.'
'Broad-spectrum sunscreen products with SPF 30 or higher and PA+++ protect against UVA and UVB rays. Regular use of sunscreen helps protect against hyperpigmentation, collagen degradation, and skin malignancies,' advised Dr Mehta.
Myth 5: Anti-ageing products are only for people over 40
Fact: Prevention is better than correction.
Starting early is better. Collagen production slows from your mid-20s, said Dr Mehta. Incorporating antioxidants like vitamin C, retinoids, and peptides in your 20s or 30s helps preserve skin elasticity and prevent fine lines.
'By doing so, you're providing your skin with support and options, and strengthening the skin's barrier and cellular turnover while preserving elasticity, all in line with what dermatology strongly promotes: prevention is better than correction,' he said.
Myth 6: Acne is caused by dirty skin or poor hygiene
Fact: Be gentle. Cleanse regularly, but don't scrub your skin too much.
'Acne is a complex medical condition, not just about washing your face,' explained Dr Mehta. 'Four primary processes lead to its formation: overproduction of sebum, follicular hyperkeratinisation, hormones (especially androgens), and Cutibacterium acnes, which leads to localised facial inflammation. These processes occur in the pilosebaceous unit and beneath the surface of the skin.'
Myth 7: If a skincare product tingles, it means it's working
Fact: Skincare shouldn't hurt. If it stings, patch test first, and maybe rethink the product.
'Tingling often means irritation, not effectiveness,' said Dr Mehta. While some actives may mildly sting at first, burning or prolonged discomfort is a red flag.
'Products shouldn't burn or hurt constantly. Try out new products, patch-test for sensitivity before full-face application. Keep an eye on your skin; if tingling is moderate and temporary, it's probably okay. If it's extreme, prolonged, or visible irritations occur, discontinue use and consult a professional.'
Myth 8: Wearing makeup regularly causes breakouts
Fact: It's not makeup, it's the method. Clean tools, clean removal, and clean ingredients = clear skin.
'Makeup doesn't cause acne by default,' said Dr Mehta, 'but poor removal, dirty brushes, and pore-clogging ingredients can.' Look for non-comedogenic, oil-free, and mineral-based products, and never sleep in your makeup.
'Most makeup products have oils, synthetic fragrances, dyes, and preservatives, which clog pores and lock in sebum, causing a type of acne called acne cosmetica, which is made up of tiny bumps, blackheads, or whiteheads on the cheeks, neck, and upper part of the chest,' he said.
Myth 9: Expensive skincare products work better than cheaper ones
Fact: Your skin doesn't know the price, it knows performance. Read labels, not logos.
'It's the formula and active ingredients that matter, not the price tag,' Dr Mehta clarified. Drugstore products often contain the same ingredients (like retinol or vitamin C) found in luxury brands.
'One must select products that are aligned with the skin type and make sure to use them regularly,' he said.
Myth 10: You'll see visible skincare results overnight
Fact: Be patient. Skincare works best with consistency and time.
'While moisturisers and cleansers can instantly hydrate and refresh the skin, active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, AHAs, and BHAs need 4 to 12 weeks of regular use to improve conditions such as acne, pigmentation, and fine lines. This timeline aligns with the skin's typical renewal cycle of 28–40 days, in which dermal remodelling and epidermal turnover occur,' explained Dr Mehta. Quick fixes rarely offer lasting benefits; real change takes time.
Myth 11: Drinking more water will automatically improve skin texture and glow
Fact: Hydrate inside and out. Combine drinking water with the right products.
'Hydration supports your skin's barrier,' said Dr Mehta, 'but topical care like moisturisers and SPF are just as critical for skin.' Drinking excess water won't replace a solid skincare routine.
'Take into consideration factors like photoprotection (not equal to sunscreen), barrier repair, and antioxidant performance—these are additional considerations for healthy skin,' he said.
Myth 12: Pores open and close depending on temperature or steam
Fact: You can clean pores, but you can't shrink them like magic. Manage, don't chase myths.
'Warm water or steam can soften sebum or loosen keratinised plugs in follicles and help to clean or extract more effectively. It will temporarily minimise the appearance of enlarged pores, but it does not change the physical size. Cold water and toners can temporarily cause vasoconstriction and tighten the facial skin, but do not actually 'close' pores,' Dr Mehta said. Pore size is mostly genetic. 'Unfortunately, there is no way to permanently change the pore size. Retinoids and niacinamide can help reduce their appearance,' he said.
Myth 13: Tanning or sun exposure can help clear up acne
Fact: A tan is not a treatment. Please be sure to stick to evidence-based acne solutions.
'Sunlight provides visual improvement in acne due to its drying effect and temporary pigmentation, but it is neither a safe nor effective treatment mode. Sun exposure can worsen acne and lead to scarring,' warned Dr Mehta. It also increases the risk of hyperpigmentation and skin cancer.
Myth 14: You need a 10-step skincare routine for healthy, glowing skin
Fact: Keep it simple. Consistency beats complexity every time.
'A 10-step skincare routine, while popularised by Korean beauty trends, is not required to achieve good, healthy, and radiant skin. A minimalist routine, which includes cleansing, moisturising, and SPF, is enough for most people. These three steps can eliminate impurities, maintain hydration, and protect against the sun damage that can cause premature ageing and dullness,' said Dr Mehta.
Overcomplicating things can overwhelm your skin and can be too much for the skin to handle, particularly if too many ingredients are layered at once.
The truth is, there's no one-size-fits-all skincare rulebook. But if there's one thing dermatologists agree on, it's this: Less hype, more science.
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