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MasterChef must die

MasterChef must die

Spectator4 days ago
As Oscar Wilde didn't quite put it, for one MasterChef presenter to depart because of a scandal may be regarded as a misfortune, to lose both looks like carelessness. After Gregg Wallace received his P45 from the long-running BBC cookery show, his co-presenter John Torode has also been given the boot, having allegedly made a racist remark during filming in 2018 – a claim Torode denies. It is clear that all is not well behind the stove.
Wallace and Torde's antics have made MasterChef a joke. The stories about Wallace that have dominated the headlines over the last week have long since veered into ridiculousness – not least the piquant detail that he is apparently unable to wear underpants because of his autism. But when Torode put out a statement saying: 'Personally I have loved every minute working on MasterChef, but it's time to pass the cutlery to someone else. For whoever takes over, love it as I have', it became clear that, whatever the future incarnation of the show, it will not be the same.
You do not have to be the greatest fan of either Wallace or Torode to acknowledge that the reason for MasterChef's success in recent years was in large part because of their on-screen chemistry and how well they interacted with their guests. Each had their clearly defined persona. Wallace was the cheeky-chappie costermonger, ever ready with a quip or tension-deflating gag. Torode was the straight man, bringing a calming sense of order and confidence to proceedings.
The two began hosting the show in 2005, after Torode was chosen instead of the higher-profile and more acerbic food critic, the late AA Gill. An especially notable feature of MasterChef in the Wallace-Torode era was its kindness to contestants, some of whom made a veritable pig's ear of the dishes that they were preparing. Gill, you imagine, would have made sneering, sarcastic comments about their ineptitude. But Torode and Wallace managed to bring a humanity and jocularity to proceedings that kept matters light and forever entertaining.
Since it was invented in 1990 by Franc Roddam, who film buffs may remember was the director of the Who film Quadrophenia, MasterChef has been one of the BBC's most lucrative and beloved shows. The format has been sold to 65 other territories worldwide, where it is said to be watched by as many as 300 million people. Some of its most high-profile winners include the likes of Thomasina Miers, Dhruv Baker and Shelina Permaloo, who became the first woman of colour to win the show in 2012. It has, undeniably, been a great British success story, and the BBC will now be trying to find two permanent presenters who can replace Wallace and Torode and make viewers forget the scandals that have tainted the show in recent times.
This is understandable, but it is also tempting to suggest that it is time that MasterChef takes a break from television, perhaps an extended one. Thirty-five years is a very long time for any show to be on air, and the format was beginning to flag at times in recent years, despite the continued energy that its presenters brought to the screen.
While I don't believe that anyone will be put off watching a revived incarnation of the show because of the opprobrium directed towards its former hosts – 'Oh, John Torode said something dodgy seven years ago, I won't watch the series that he used to present' – now might be a valuable opportunity for its makers to pause and reflect what it could be in the future.
Axing MasterChef is not an easy decision. Should a Gill-esque host be hired to dispense haughty quips and withering put-downs? Or should the programme double down on hugs and tears, no doubt accompanied by would-be inspirational music? There are arguments for both, or an entirely different approach. But rather than the producers insisting on 'business as usual' and reaching for the contacts book of the usual suspects, recent events might lead them to take a step back. They should reconsider whether this show, now well into its fourth decade, could do with a proper rethink to keep it relevant and interesting and to ensure that the recent unflattering headlines are soon forgotten. Otherwise, this particular kitchen might end up shutting down, possibly for good.
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Again and again, we are shocked by the treatment of learning-disabled people. Yet we never learn from the past
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BBC Radio 4 has just aired a short series about the writer Virginia Woolf, to celebrate the centenary of her novel Mrs Dalloway. According to the publicity blurb, the aim of Three Transformations of Virginia Woolf was to explore what she 'has to say to us today', and how she 'captured and critiqued a modern world that was transforming around her, treated mental health as a human experience rather than a medical condition, and challenged gender norms'. Because the three episodes immediately followed the Today programme, I distractedly caught two minutes of the first, before flinching, and turning it off. The reason? Only a few days before, I had read a diary entry Woolf wrote in 1915, presented alongside the acknowledgment that she was 'suffering deep trauma at the time', but still so shocking that it made me catch my breath. It was a recollection of encountering a group of learning-disabled people, who were probably residents of a famous institution called Normansfield hospital. 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He was inspirational, but it would be good to arrive at a point where what he did was completely unremarkable. It may sound a little melodramatic, but it is also true: such people, and allies like Unwin, are at the cutting-edge of human liberation. Far too many others may not have the same grim ideas as Woolf, Lawrence, Keynes and all the rest, but their unawareness and neglect sit somewhere on the same awful continuum. That only highlights an obvious political fact that all of us ought to appreciate as a matter of instinct: that the present and future will only be different if we finally understand the past. John Harris is a Guardian columnist

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