The Cullinan Review: Steakhouse sophistication at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab

FACT

09-04-2025

A meat sommelier and Burj Al Arab views are just some of the draws at this slick new spot.
The name Cullinan carries a legacy of rarity, refinement, and luxury. A fitting moniker, then, for a new restaurant that resides within the glamorous confines of Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab.
The Cullinan takes its name from the Cullinan Diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered. Unearthed in South Africa in 1905, this extraordinary stone weighed an astonishing 3,106 carats in its raw form. It was later cut into several stones, the most famous of which—Cullinan I and II—were set into the British Crown Jewels and the Sovereign's Sceptre, respectively.
In modern times, the name Cullinan has found a new home in ultra-luxury automobiles. The Rolls-Royce Cullinan, named in honour of the legendary diamond, is the marque's first SUV. This shared nomenclature is more than a coincidence. The Cullinan restaurant offers a similarly elevated experience—one that's defined by precision, exclusivity, and the finest ingredients the world has to offer.
The approach to The Cullinan is nothing short of cinematic. Located in Dubai's newest ultra-luxury resort, Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab—a property inspired by the sleek curves of a superyacht—the restaurant is discreetly tucked away on the first floor close to the spa.
The interiors are modern and sophisticated: think sculptural lighting, and a moody monochromatic palette of inky blacks and brilliant whites. The atmosphere is sultry yet refined, designed for long evenings of whispered conversations and gastronomic theatre. Tables are generously spaced, allowing for intimacy, while the huge open kitchen injects a burst of kinesis into the room. The terrace offers spectacular skyline views, framed by the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab on one side and the world's tallest building – Burj Khalifa – on the other. With the Marina skyline glistening on the horizon and the light show of Ain Dubai reflected in the ocean, The Cullinan sets the stage for a memorable meal.
The menu at The Cullinan takes steakhouse classics and reinvents them with an elegant edge. Our meal began with the Scallop Crudo (AED 96) where delicate, translucent slices of scallop are infused with butterfly pea, instilling then dish with an ethereal blue tone, the subtle marine sweetness enhanced by a parmesan nut dressing that brings a savoury umami hit. A citrus skin salad adds brightness, dashi pearls and caviar provide bursts of saline depth, while crispy scallop crackers that shatter with a satisfying crunch.
From sea to land, the Steak Tartare Mille-Feuille (AED 118) is playful and precise. Tenderloin, hand-chopped to preserve its integrity, is layered with impossibly thin mille-feuille potato sheets, adding texture. Truffle mayo and truffle caviar double down on the opulence, while gold leaf and cucumber pearls lend the plate a jewelled finish. It's luxurious, but grounded by the rich, almost nostalgic notes of the creamy demi-glace and the sharpness of pickled onion.
Then came the Oxtail & Bone Marrow Croquettes (AED 96). Golden and crisp on the outside, the interior reveals a moreish mix of slow-cooked oxtail and unctuous bone marrow. Black truffle aioli and caramelised onion purée lend earthy sweetness, while smoked paprika dust and a fermented chilli gel offer a gentle, warming kick. It's a dish designed for sharing, though you'll be reluctant to part with even one.
The Short Rib Dumplings (AED 87) were perhaps the evening's most comforting course, if a touch on the dry side. Inside pillowy dumpling wrappers lies juicy wagyu short rib, deeply flavoured with a demi-glace reduction. Black garlic cream, parsnip purée, and yellow pepper add complexity and sweetness, while a lacy tuile brings texture. It's a soulful plate that showcases the chef's understanding of balance and layering.
Being a steakhouse, The Cullinan's menu reads like a curated list of the world's finest bovine terroirs. Opting to work with local suppliers rather than big brands, a meat sommelier is on hand to curate a selection of cuts. We opted for the Bass Strait Fillet (AED 320) from Tasmania and the Silver Fern Farms Fillet (AED 290) from New Zealand, both grass-fed. The former, raised on rye grass and clover in the pristine environments of 39°S, arrived perfectly charred and unadorned, showcasing its rich, clean flavour thanks to the 'Natural State Hanging Method.' The latter, a certified Net Carbon Zero cut, was buttery in texture. Neither cut required a sauce or seasoning embellishment.
Dessert lands like a final act of edible theatre. The Lemon & Yuzu Crispy Spheres (AED 75) are a marvel of technique and whimsy. A sugar-coated orb that resembles a freshly picked lemon complete with texture skin and a lone leaf cracks open to reveal a tangy yuzu ganache and silken lemon curd, anchored by a vanilla sable and topped with torched meringue. It's a dish that dances between playful and precise, much like the restaurant itself.
Service at The Cullinan is discreet and perfectly paced. Staff move with the kind of confidence that comes from deep knowledge and rigorous training, yet there's none of the stuffiness that can sometimes accompany high-end dining. It's to be expected as the restaurant comes from Food Fund International, the same group behind the likes of Clay, Ristorante Loren and SĀN Beach Club.
The newly opened Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab is a hotel packed with surprises, but away from the Burj Al Arab views and super-yacht-inspired facade, the dining destinations are the real draw. The Cullinan asserts itself as a crowning jewel in the property's culinary diadem. Much like the diamond it's named after, the restaurant sparkles with distinction and a sense of occasion.
GO: Visit www.thecullinandubai.com for reservations and more information.