For Icelandic vibes without the crowds, head to this Canadian destination

National Geographic

5 days ago

The skies open up, and a tidal wave of green crosses the sky. The air is frigid and clear, and so too is the Klondike Highway. The auroras last for hours, the boreal forest glowing neon in the dark. It's a scene many travelers dream of finding on their Iceland trip, but this one's a painting of any winter night in Canada's Yukon Territory.
While Iceland and the Yukon certainly share a long list of similarities—fabulous outdoor adventure, midnight sun, spa culture, macabre drinking traditions—by the numbers, they couldn't tell a more different story. Iceland is roughly five times smaller than the Yukon, but it has roughly 10 times the number of residents. Visitation numbers hold a similar pattern: Iceland saw just under 2.3 million foreign visitors in 2024. Canada's northwesternmost territory, the Yukon? 515,300 visitors.
That number is the highest on record, and total visitation to the Yukon is up nearly 25 percent over 2023. If the pattern holds, more and more visitors will discover this world that refuses to define exploration and luxury—if anything, it's the delight of choosing both slow-paced, organic living and hands-dirty, off-grid adventure.
(How to plan the ultimate road trip adventure in Canada) Yukon's remote wilderness
Like Iceland's Golden Circle route, get on the road in the Yukon, and you'll be led to jagged cliffs, hot springs, and volcanic canyons. The Dempster Highway—Canada's northernmost highway, running from Dawson City all the way to the Arctic Ocean—rolls across ice-carved scenes like Tombstone Territorial Park, aka Canada's Patagonia.
'Out on the Dempster, everywhere you look is like a painting,' says Jesse Cook, founder and CEO of The Klondike Experience in Dawson City. Cook recommends hiking high Tombstone Territorial Park's Goldensides Mountain viewpoint in summer months, or snowmobiling across the North Klondike valley come winter—which you'd have to yourself, if it weren't for the occasional wandering caribou.
Back in Dawson City, Cook recommends the Klondike Institute of Arts and Culture (KIAC) for an evening concert, the Dawson City Trading Post for one of the most unique shopping experiences in the north, and the Westminster Hotel Tavern and Lounge for an afternoon beer with locals. The bright pink exterior belies the grit inside: Colloquially known as 'the Pit,' the 1898 decor is original, as are the precipitously sloping floors.
For those unafraid of a little tourist-y kitsch, a block away lies the Sourdough Saloon and the chance to join the Sourtoe Cocktail Club. Far gorier than Iceland's famous 'Black Death' (a caraway-flavored schnapps), patrons pay $5 for the privilege of downing a shot of Yukon Jack garnished with a dehydrated human toe. As the rules state, 'You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow, but your lips have got to touch the toe.' Yours truly is club member #121276. Spas and wellness under the northern lights
For those in need of a palate cleanser after that whiskey experience, a few blocks away lies the tonic: the Yukon Spa . Despite a vegan, plant-based menu and holistic offerings, the venue has become a thriving community hub. 'Long winters and remote living can take their toll,' explains Lee Manning, co-owner, 'and Dawsonites appreciate warm spaces that nourish the body and soul.'
Although it may not seem evident to anyone else, opening a vegan cafe and spa in Dawson made 'perfect sense,' says Manning. The town's tight-knit atmosphere fosters local support, and a steady stream of adventurous tourists provides an ever-curious audience eager for new and unlikely experiences. Of course, the on-site spa—one of the northernmost spas in the world—has broad appeal: Outdoor facilities allow for aurora-viewing from your hot tub.
(5 spectacular ways to see the northern lights in Canada)
Further south in Whitehorse, the territory's largest city, wellness is even easier to come by. Beyond plant-based hangouts like the Kind Cafe and Aroma Borealis, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs —built in Japanese and Nordic styles—has all the panache of Iceland's Blue Lagoon, without the crowds and social media expectations. Instead of angling for the perfect selfie, visit in winter for the requisite experience: frozen hair contests. Fishing Branch River in the Yukon Territory is a spawning ground for salmon, making it a big draw for grizzly bears. Photograph by Paul Nicklen, National Geographic Image Collection
And while Whitehorse may seem second to Dawson in terms of nature and northern lights, it's no stranger to either—its nickname is 'The Wilderness City.' In winter, travelers can try ice-fishing under the auroras with North Country Outdoor Adventures (and cooking up your catch with the team's famous French fries), renting private cabins for aurora-viewing with Northern Tales , or simply testing celestial luck on poet Robert Service's famous Lake Laberge.
Come summer, colors move from sky to ground. Emerald Lake more than earns its name, and Miles Canyon, along the historic Yukon River, brings bears, moose, loons, and beavers together along basalt cliffs. The Yukon Wildlife Preserve nearly promises encounters with Canada's wildest creatures—including lynx, muskox, and mountain goats—but with a dozen or so species spread across more than 350 acres, you can feel good about bringing those binoculars. How to get there—and where to stay
Most travelers will fly into Whitehorse via Vancouver, Calgary, or Edmonton. From there, connect to Dawson City via Air North—famous for its fresh-baked, warm chocolate-chip cookies. Travelers can also take the famous Klondike Highway from Skagway, Alaska, an epic eight-hour road trip full of Gold Rush scenery, or the Top of the World Highway from Jake Wade, Alaska, 79 miles of gravel through the Alaska Range (summer only).
Accommodations run the gamut in Whitehorse, from the forested, modern cabins of Black Spruce Landscape Hotel to the hip digs of Raven Inn & Suites and its signature 126-year-old sourdough starter. In Dawson City, boutique accommodations include the 10-room Dawson Lodge , the historic Bombay Peggy's , and the quiet and classic Aurora Inn . Wherever you choose, plan on sleeping in—summer brings late nights with the sun, and winter means staying up for the Yukon's best show.
('What I stand on is what I stand for'— Indigenous soap-maker Joella Hogan on reconnecting locals to the land in Canada) Jacqueline Kehoe is a Wisconsin-based writer with work seen in National Geographic, Smithsonian Magazine, Travel + Leisure, and others. She focuses on science, nature, and travel. See more at jacquelinekehoe.com.