Mr Chow review: London's famous Chinese restaurant serves up classics in Dubai

The National

5 days ago

One of London's most famous Chinese restaurants has finally landed in Dubai.
After its first restaurant took the UK dining scene by storm in 1968, the brand now has venues in New York, Miami, Beverly Hills and Las Vegas in the US, as well as an outpost in Riyadh. Its Dubai outpost opened in June, promising to bring its combination of classic dishes served in an elegant setting while embracing the nuances of the region.
The restaurant's location is an immediate removal from the hustle and bustle of its older London sibling, swapping Knightsbridge for the second floor of a commercial tower in Dubai's financial district.
Like Alice through the looking glass, you are transported into another universe when walking into Mr Chow – one that's a lavish space of high ceilings, low lighting and spectacular scenery.
Where to sit and what to expect
There is something charmingly classical about Mr Chow's aesthetic, with dark walls, dark furniture and minimalist white tablecloths.
In a word, Mr Chow is polished. Whether that's the silver cutlery or the servers decked out in high-quality tuxedos, it's a restaurant that brings a touch of 1970s Britain to the modernity of DIFC.
There's an array of seating options, with tables lining the floor-to-wall windows and a magnificent central bar area. My dining partner and I choose one of the central tables, which has a high-backed sofa seat offering up spectacular views of the cityscape around us.
It's here that our server, Nick, explains the basics of the menu and we settle down for the dinner awaiting us.
The menu
To start with, we share a serving of chicken satay (Dh92) and glazed prawns with walnuts (Dh164).
Consistent with Mr Chow's general feel, the two dishes are deliberately simple and classical. With both the chicken and the prawns, the core flavour blends wonderfully with the traditional tastes brought out in the marinade for the chicken and the walnut sauce with the prawns.
They are excellent starters as they set the tone for the quality of the food that's to come, while also not being too heavy to rule out further dishes.
Ma mignon (Dh297) is our main course of choice, served alongside the Gamblers duck (Dh295) with rice and vegetables (Dh75) on the side. Similar to our starters, they are two very different dishes that we choose to share, but they illustrate what Mr Chow is all about.
A recipe since 1975, the ma mignon is a Mr Chow staple and serves up tender filet mignon with asparagus and a rich gravy. It's as delicious as it sounds. The Gamblers duck, meanwhile, is essentially a more sophisticated take on the archetypal Chinese takeaway order; crispy duck and pancakes. This, though, is an elevated experience and one that offers beautifully cooked meat – carved at your table on a silver plate – with pancakes, vegetables and plum sauce.
For dessert, we go for the mango ice bowl (Dh95), which is arguably the piece de resistance and a wonderful way to end a fine meal. Its presentation is spectacular, with the ice elegantly surrounding the fruit. It's also very light and refreshing, meaning you have plenty of room to tuck in despite having dined on the heavier starters and mains. Just make sure you finish your dessert quickly, as it will melt before your eyes.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Mr Chow can cost between Dh230 and Dh581. On the high end of the price spectrum lie the vermicelli with lobster (Dh169), fresh live lobster (Dh317) and mango ice bowl (Dh95).
The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are the crab claw (Dh92), mapo tofu (Dh90), and sorbet selection (Dh48).
A chat with the chef
The man behind the dishes at Mr Chow is head chef Zhang Yu Jun. Originally from Jiangsu, China, he has worked with the brand for almost three years before fronting the Dubai project.
He particular enjoys cooking with seafood and beef. 'These ingredients allow for endless creativity and refinement,' he says. 'You'll find them featured throughout our menu, from delicate seafood dim sum to our signature meat dishes, always with a focus on freshness, precision, and innovation.'
Chef Zhang describes his cooking style as one that is deeply respectful of the ingredients he works with. 'I draw inspiration from traditional Chinese cuisine while incorporating modern touches,' he says. 'My goal is always to balance authenticity, artistry and seasonal ingredients.
'For me, cooking is an artistic expression. I believe in respecting the ingredients, embracing seasonality and constantly improving my skills.'
For vegetarian or vegan diners, he recommends the vegetarian squab with lettuce, for meat lovers his top tip is the Beijing chicken with walnuts, and for seafood aficionados, the live lobster gets the nod.
His go-to starter is the satay chicken skewers, while he suggests the restaurant's selection of steamed seafood dishes all amount to good options for those looking for a healthier plate.
Contact information
Mr Chow is in Precinct Building 3 in the Dubai International Financial Centre. It is open daily from noon to midnight. Reservations can be made by calling 04 834 2013.