The Surfliner at Grand Army

Time Out

3 days ago

Grand Army is a neighborhood cocktail and oyster bar. Whether the evening in question calls for casual drinks or serious cocktailing, light raw bar fare amid steamy summer vespers or a cozy crackling fireplace amid a winter chill, a night out with friends or with a date, Grand Army fits nearly any bill with aplomb.
Airy and inviting, the room isn't huge, but pockets of privacy are easy to find. There's ample seating with tables scattered throughout and plenty of spots at the pretty wraparound bar, plus outdoor tables when weather allows. The vibe is neighborhoody–with local art and photographs on every wall, including the bathroom, one might even say ' Brooklyn-y.' But, to be clear, that's in the best possible way.
While it doesn't rely on schtick, Grand Army's cocktail program plays with theme. In the past, clever, inventive menus have referenced the MTA, honky tonk, game shows, Mean Girls, and Nicolas Cage (just to name a few)—each with their own suite of entirely new concoctions to suit the motif. In this way, return visits promise both fidelity to what makes the bar inviting in the first place and the kind of novelty that gently encourages exploration. Also available are a healthy selection of craft beers on tap (approximately $12), a variety of easy-drinking bottles and cans ($4–$12), and a curated collection of wines by the glass ($16) or bottle ($64).
With emphasis on the excellent raw bar, Grand Army's food is mostly cold and mostly seafood, with a privileged place reserved for oysters. That doesn't mean that your oceanically-averse friends won't find things to enjoy; tater tots with homemade ranch, hot dogs loaded with bacon and cornichon, and vegan meatballs with garlic confit are all easy sells at less than $16 per. But, truly, it's hard not to recommend one of their quality seafood towers, the dual selections of which are cheekily called 'low-brow' and 'high-brow,' and go for $65 and $110, respectively.
With so much to offer so many, it's easy to understand why, over the past decade, Grand Army has staked such a solid place in Boerum Hill's heart.