Isabel Marant Fall 2025: Heavy on Punk-inspired Tailoring, Layering and Leather
'You're in the right hands,' Marant said, breezing into the backstage looking and sounding like someone coming off a holistic recharge, explaining that she stepped back a bit from this one, but that it's in no way permanent.
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Bekker found inspiration in women (and men, because she showed menswear, too) who had their own fearless style. Joan Jett, Siouxsie Sioux and Johnny Rotten were on the mood board, as were fresh-faced photos of Kate Moss and Drew Barrymore. They all filtered through the '80s-'90s rock-'n'-roll mash-up of punk, grunge and a bit of new romantic that was heavy on layering and tailoring, leggy minis, leather, hardware and brooches.
'I'm quite surprised everyone is into the same vibe, but I think it's more that we feel we need to be strong again, to overcome things,' Bekker said judiciously when asked about fashion's latest flirtation with the antiestablishment to sell more clothes.
If there was anger, it didn't manifest on the Marant runway, where sex appeal is really the stock in trade. There was snatched tailoring — pin-striped power shoulder blazers and layerable waistcoats, itty bitty pin-striped HotPants and respectable trouser shorts, and a pin-striped body-con jumpsuit that was great looking.
Rock-'n'-roll leathers came in many forms, including buckled micro-minis, a great pullover and cool trenchcoat with silver grommet and piercing hardware details.
Punk plaids, fuzzy sweaters, sheer mesh tops and new romantic polka dots also made appearances, along with a couple of '80s va-va-voom very tight and short cocktail dresses. And even the men had a feminine side, with touches of silver embroidery, trailing polka-dot scarves, and mismatched color shoes.
The collection was loaded up with so many accessories, however — including lace and fishnet tights, belts, bags, scarves, safety pins and studs — that they detracted from the quality of design and overwhelmed a few of the looks, not to mention the senses. Then again, there was nothing quiet about punk. You have to go to an Ayurvedic retreat for that.
Launch Gallery: Isabel Marant Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
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