Maria Grazia Chiuri Is Bidding Farewell to Dior
Heavy speculation surrounding the details of her departure has been building since December, but fashion's rumor mill aside, it's bittersweet to see the tenure of one of the few female designers at a major luxury house—and the only woman to ever lead Dior—come to an end. It remains to be seen if former Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson, who was officially appointed to Dior Men in April, will be her replacement.
Born in Rome to a military father and seamstress mother, Chiuri was exposed to clothing ateliers at a young age. After completing fashion school, she spent nearly 30 years working alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli (who was recently confirmed as the creative director of Balenciaga, effective July 10)—first at Fendi, where they birthed the iconic Baguette bag, and finally as co-creative directors of Valentino before Chiuri departed for Dior in 2016.
In her time at Dior, Chiuri built a world dedicated to local artisans, female empowerment, and skilled craftsmanship. Her collections were often filled with overt messaging, ranging from her viral spring 2017 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-shirt to the 'Miss Dior' graphics in the fall 2024 collection. Chiuri told ELLE in a 2020 profile that these principles were representative of the feminism instilled in her by her liberal parents while growing up in an Italy where female liberation and reproductive rights were remarkably taboo—and are increasingly so again.
'She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women's collections,' said Delphine Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture, in a statement that also hailed the designer's 'feminist perspective and exceptional creativity.'
Chiuri took to Instagram to commemorate her time at the house, writing, 'I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and ateliers. Their talent and expertise allowed me to realize my vision of committed women's fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written a remarkable and impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.'
Chiuri's legacy at Dior will undoubtedly be defined by her dedication to exploring craft and her emphasis on the unspoken history of hidden female labor, particularly within the domestic sphere. In 2023, the house traveled to India, in honor of the Indian-inspired ensemble in Marc Bohan's 1947 collection, which spurred a dynamic relationship between the country and the brand. The collection highlighted the work of the female-run Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai, with which Chiuri formed a long-lasting partnership over the course of her career. 'To be a creative director means to work with a big community. And I want this community to be visible,' Chiuri told ELLE just before the show. More recently, Chiuri took to Kyoto to stage the brand's pre-fall runway show underneath the cherry blossoms in full bloom. Always reverential to the legacy of Monsieur Dior, the collection paid tribute to the house's longstanding relationship with Japan.
As of now, Anderson is set to officially debut during Men's Paris Fashion Week on June 27, but there remains no official word on Chiuri's successor.
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