Latest news with #Aldeburgh
The Sun
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- The Sun
The English seaside town with no arcades or rides but named the best in the UK
IT MIGHT be a little unusual to want a seaside spot without arcades - let alone find one in the UK - but one top seaside town offers an arcade-free experience. Littered with pastel-coloured holiday villas and fisherman's huts selling the daily catch, Aldeburgh in Suffolk doesn't just offer an arcade-free spot, but a wealth of history too. 3 Most famously, the town is known for its links to the Tudor period and shipbuilding. Aldeburgh comes from 'Alde' and 'burgh' meaning 'old fort'. Henry VIII himself even gave the port town its borough status. And later, it became the site where famous ships were built including Sir Francis Drake's Golden Hind and the Virginia Company's Sea Venture. Today, the town still celebrates its rich history and has a literary festival each year. There are some famous faces that call the town home too, such as former Manchester United midfielder Roy Keane. Michelin. Along the high street, instead of arcades you will find clothes boutiques, antiques shops and independent book stores. One stop to head to is O&C Butcher - a 130-year-old clothes store selling top brands including Barbour and Gant. The town is also known for being the home of famous composer, Benjamin Britten. I visited the seaside town with the UK's best fish and chips Today, during the summer months, visitors can head to his home, The Red House. Britten shared the home with Peter Pears and it is nestled in a five acre garden, with a farmhouse, gallery space, shop and cafe. And there is a historic cinema in the town too. However, it doesn't look like your average cinema from the outside, as it features timber framing. The beach itself boasts both shingle and sand and backs onto the town, making it the ideal spot for adventuring to after exploring the town. On the beach you will also find The Scallop - a sculpture that is a tribute to Benjamin Britten. 3 The Times recently named the seaside town the best in the UK. It stated: "The East Anglian coast often seems stuck in a bit of a time warp, and if anywhere exemplifies this it's Aldeburgh. "Aldeburgh is a vision of the English seaside of yesteryear: wooden shacks and bathing huts, boats pulled up on the shingle, strolls along the prom with ice cream in hand. "It's super for coastal walks, and there's bird-spotting at the nature reserves of Dunwich Heath and Minsmere — one of only a dozen or so places in Britain where it's still possible to hear the boom of the bittern." It takes about two hours on the train to head to either Saxmundham or Darsham from London - the nearby train stations. Then it is a short drive to Aldeburgh. There is also an English seaside destination where prehistoric creatures once roamed and it has been named one of best places to visit in the world. Plus, the English seaside district that used to be its own island is ranked amongst best places to visit in the world this summer. 3
BBC News
3 days ago
- General
- BBC News
Fire crews tackle 200 tonnes of hay bales ablaze in Campsea Ashe
Firefighters have been tackling a blaze of about 200 tonnes of hay bales which were part of a haystack. Suffolk Fire and Rescue Service said it was called to Rendlesham Lane in Campsea Ashe on Thursday at about 20:37 BST. It said four appliances were initially called out to incident and two appliances from Aldeburgh and Orford remained as the fire was ongoing. About 200 tonnes of hay bales were said to be alight and farm machinery was used to help create a fire break in the stack. Follow Suffolk news on BBC Sounds, Facebook, Instagram and X.
Telegraph
02-08-2025
- Telegraph
The best beaches in Suffolk
Suffolk doesn't receive the same attention as its close cousin Norfolk when it comes to beaches, but the coast is one of the county's highlights, and its beaches offer more variety than you might think. Aldeburgh and Southwold offer coastal chic in bucketloads, while places like Covehithe and Shingle Street are as far off the beaten track as you ever get in England. Plus, there's a dash of kiss-me-quick charm in some of the places you would least expect it, like Felixstowe and Lowestoft. The great thing is, nowhere is close to a main road or major transport route, so wherever you go, you feel a little bit away from things. Lowestoft Lowestoft doesn't spring to mind when you think of beaches, but it is both England's most easterly beach and also one of its best; a long ribbon of fine sand, backed by a classically English mixture of beach huts, pristinely manicured gardens and Edwardian terraces. Getting there: Trains run from Norwich on the so-called Wherry Line from Norwich to Lowestoft's train station, which is handily placed near the seafront, just across the bridge from the pier and the main beach. By car, there are several car parks along the beach promenade. Insider tip: Lowestoft is also the southern tip of the Broads National Park, so you can also enjoy freshwater adventures a little way inland at Oulton Broad, where you can rent your own boat for the day or take a river cruise. You can reach it by train in two minutes. Covehithe This unique spot, a slender strip of sand backed by low bracken-topped cliffs, is reachable via a footpath from Covehithe's ruined church. If you prefer your beaches empty, this is the one for you. Getting there: Follow the signs to Covehithe off the main A12 from nearby Wrentham. Park your car by the ruined church of St Andrew and walk the rest of the way. Insider tip: The church is very atmospheric, and there's a five-mile circular walk you can do just inland from here, north around Benacre Broad and back down the coast to the beach. Southwold Genteel Southwold has a lot going for it – a handsome town centre crammed with pubs, restaurants and cafés, an iconic lighthouse and brewery and one of Suffolk's best sandy beaches, famously backed by some of the most expensive beach huts in the country. Getting there: The closest car park to the beach is the one just to the north of the pier, but there's another within easy walking distance, just the other side of the high street on York Road. Insider tip: Southwold Pier is delightfully low-key, with a restaurant that's a cut above the usual seaside pier offerings, and attractions like the wacky Under the Pier Show. Walberswick Its annual crabbing festival was stopped a few years ago due to overwhelming popularity, but Walberswick remains the crabbing capital of the east coast. But that's not the only reason to come here: its beach (a mixture of sand and shingle depending on the tides) is lovely – not too crowded and backed by grassy dunes. Getting there: The nicest way to reach Walberswick is on the quaint foot ferry across the river from Southwold's harbour, but it's also easy to reach by car and there's plenty of parking close to the river and beach. Insider tip: Walberswick is home to two excellent pubs – the cosy Bell, closest to the beach, and the slightly better-known Anchor, on the main road into the village. Both have rooms and serve food, with The Anchor in particular a destination pub for dining. Aldeburgh Benjamin Britten used to gaze out over Aldeburgh's beach from his seaside cottage before he moved to the Red House on the other side of town, and he'd still recognise the view today; a lumpy pebble and shingle strand dotted with fishing boats that stretches the length of the town and is backed by huts selling the freshest fish and seafood. How to get there: Aldeburgh is a 10-minute drive from the main A12 coast road. There's parking on the high street, which runs parallel to the beach, and car parks at either end of the town, right by the beach in both cases. Insider tip: Take a stroll up the beach in the direction of Thorpeness to Maggi Hambling's impressive Scallop shell sculpture, inscribed with words from the George Herbert poem that inspired Britten's opera, Peter Grimes. Shingle Street Shingle Street is perhaps the most unique of Suffolk's beaches, and indeed one of its most remote spots, at the end of a minor road that leads across the marshes south of Woodbridge. The name is a bit of a misnomer, since there are no streets here whatsoever, just a line of holiday homes and seaside shacks behind a wide stretch of shingle that looks onto a lagoon. Shingle Street never quite recovered after a World War II evacuation, and it remains an eerie and rather atmospheric spot, one more suited for contemplation than sun-worshipping. Getting there: It's easy to get here by car – the road leads here and nowhere else. There are a couple of parking areas, but nothing official. Insider tip: The beach is more of a nature reserve than somewhere for swimming, with seals basking on the shingle around the lagoon. Felixstowe Felixstowe is another Suffolk town that doesn't spring to mind when thinking of beaches, but it actually has a pretty good one – a four-mile stretch of Blue Flag sand and shingle with all the traditional trappings of a seaside resort – beach huts, a pier and a garden promenade. How to get there: You can reach Felixstowe on the train from Ipswich, and the station is just a 10-minute walk from the seafront. Coming by car, there are car parks near the pier and leisure centre and at the other end near Arwela Road. Insider tip: The Alex is a popular café, bar and restaurant that's open all day every day, and is right on the seafront road, not far from the pier and leisure centre. How we choose Every beach in this curated list has been expertly chosen by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of areas and styles, from popular city beaches to lesser known corners – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Martin Dunford Dividing my time between East Anglia and London, I've always been a big fan of the Suffolk Coast and the Norfolk and Suffolk Broads, and am never happier than when following old footpaths between medieval churches and ancient pubs.
Times
10-07-2025
- Times
24 of the best seaside towns in the UK
Surrounded as we are on all sides by the sea, it's perhaps little wonder that the coast still holds such a magnetic pull for so many of us. Whether it's rose-tinted memories of family holidays on the beach, windy walks on the cliffs, or a romantic weekend hunkered down in an old fisherman's cottage, a holiday by the coast still seems many people's idea of the perfect break — assuming the British weather decides to play ball, of course. Thankfully, there are scores of lovely seaside towns to explore in the UK. Many grew in the wake of the great tourist boom of the middle to late 19th century: for factory workers used to cramped terraces and toxic smog, the simple sight of the sea must have really been quite something to behold. And while our coastal towns have certainly had their ups and downs since then, many are enjoying a renaissance as increasing numbers of people seek a more peaceful existence away from the city. Here are our favourites: we'd love to hear yours. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue The East Anglian coast often seems stuck in a bit of a time warp, and if anywhere exemplifies this it's Aldeburgh. Famous for its links to the composer Benjamin Britten, who cofounded the town's music festival and lived here from 1957 until his death in 1976, Aldeburgh is a vision of the English seaside of yesteryear: wooden shacks and bathing huts, boats pulled up on the shingle, strolls along the prom with ice cream in hand. It's super for coastal walks, and there's bird-spotting at the nature reserves of Dunwich Heath and Minsmere — one of only a dozen or so places in Britain where it's still possible to hear the boom of the bittern. The Brudenell Hotel's seafront location makes it a prime candidate for breaks by the coast. • More great hotels in Suffolk The Norfolk coast is peppered with pretty towns and villages, most of which can be reached along a fun road trip along the A149 coast road. Some, like Wells-next-the-Sea, Brancaster Staithe and Blakeney, aren't strictly by the seaside, but Cromer is the real deal: a traditional port town with a Victorian pier, pastel-tinted beach huts, a bucket-and-spade beach, and plenty of characterful pubs. There's plenty to do here: cast a line in search of Cromer's famous crabs, visit the town's intriguing museum and the RNLI Henry Blogg Museum, or check out Poppyland Brewery — there's even a little Banksy on the sea wall to seek out, unless storms have covered it up. There's a range of accommodation at the Grove, a country house on the edge of town — pick from pleasant rooms, self-catering cottages, glamping yurts and a shepherd's lodge. • More great hotels in Norfolk Few Scottish seaside towns are prettier than Oban. Built on a horseshoe bay with views over the sound to the Isle of Kerrera, it's a bewitching sight, which explains why more than 25,000 people descend on it during the peak summer. Outside the main season, it's more tranquil, and an excellent base for road trips around the region's coast and lochs. It's also renowned for its seafood platters, consisting of locally caught lobster, crab, langoustines, oysters, mussels and more. No17 the Promenade is a plush place to stay, grandly sited amongst a string of villas on Oban's seafront, and with an eclectic gentleman's club decor that matches statement wallpaper with black-tiled bathrooms and bay windows overlooking the water. • The best of Scotland Brixham is the southwest's busiest fishing port, and it has a down-to-earth charm quite unlike the other touristy towns of the English Riviera. Obviously, the thing to do here is to sample the seafood — hake, flatfish, scallops, oysters, mussels, crabs and cuttlefish may all be on the menu, and there are plenty of restaurants to try, including Mitch Tonks's Rockfish next to the fish market. While in town, step aboard the replica of the Golden Hind — the surprisingly diminutive ship in which the local boy Francis Drake sailed around the globe. Harbour View is a cosy little B&B at the edge of the water with views of the colourful houses on the other side. • Read our full guide to Devon Unless you're a Lakeland regular, chances are you won't have visited this attractive resort town on the edge of Morecambe Bay, but it's worth the stop. It became popular during the Victorian and Edwardian holiday boom — as its many old grand hotels and tearooms attest — but in contrast to nearby Blackpool, it has retained an air of genteel elegance. The seafront is eminently strollable, and the town's location on the Cumbrian Coast Line offers onward rail adventures to the village of Cartmel (home to the renowned L'Enclume restaurant) and stately Holker Hall, or around the bay to Arnside. Corner Beech House is a charming B&B overlooking overlooking Morecambe Bay that's ideal for a quiet break. Long eclipsed by St Ives, Penzance may finally be enjoying its day in the sun. Overlooking the grand sweep of Mount's Bay and the craggy island abbey of St Michael's Mount, it has the most dramatic seaside setting in all of Cornwall. The town retains much period architecture, best seen along Chapel Street, and it has an intriguing art gallery in the Exchange, sister to the nearby Newlyn Art Gallery. But it's the epic seafront promenade that's the main draw — along with the wonderful Jubilee Pool, a classic art deco lido that even has its own geothermally heated section. The optimal way to arrive is aboard the overnight sleeper train from Paddington. Hotel Penzance is a pleasant and practical place to stay in town, with comfy rooms (including several with Mount's Bay views) and a handy location near the train station. • Best things to do in Cornwall While the fortunes of many would-be Victorian rivals have faded, this city on the sea, with its colourful Georgian houses, excellent pier and long shingle beach, has only grown in popularity. No doubt having London tethered to it by the A23 has helped, but the money that has poured in has been spent on keeping Brighton tidy and, more importantly, relevant. Take the Brighton i360, the rotating observation tower that was completed in 2016 at a cost of £46 million — you don't get investment like that in Weston-super-Mare. There are lots of seaside hotels: one of our favourites is Drakes, an elegant, bay-windowed, balconied beauty with views of the pier and a top-notch bistro and cocktail bar. • Best affordable hotels in Brighton• Best things to do in Brighton A resort since Victorian times, Ilfracombe feels a little unloved these days, but its faded grandeur is part of its character. It's a favourite haunt of Damien Hirst, whose controversial harbourfront sculpture, Verity — depicting a sword-wielding, pregnant woman — still divides opinion. Wander along the promenade, walk along the cliffs, then book for dinner at the town's top restaurant, the Antidote. The Devonian is an upmarket B&B in one of Ilfracombe's classic old gentlemen's residences, with a sweet garden and a cracking breakfast. • Best hotels in Devon Before the pandemic, before the redefinition of the term 'staycation', before it was even cool to rejuvenate your tired old seaside town, Margate in Kent was heading in that direction. This resurrection is arguably best demonstrated by its perseverance with Dreamland, its seemingly immortal amusement park. It's not all about holding on to the past though: the free-to-enter Turner Contemporary gallery has won plenty of admirers since opening in 2011 and is an ideal indoor distraction if inclement weather keeps you off the beach. The boutique Fort Road Hotel has struck gold when it comes to location — it's a stone's throw from both the Turner gallery and the beach. • More great hotels in Kent This quaint, olde-worlde south Dorset town makes the ideal jumping-off point for the Jurassic Coast, whose orange-red sandstone cliffs are rich in fossils. Children will love going ammonite-hunting, while the Dinosaurland Fossil Museum on the edge of town puts things into prehistoric context. Lyme Regis's beaches are fun for a paddle, and the Cobb, the town's impressive harbour wall, is fine for a blustery stroll. Five miles outside town, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's River Cottage offers cookery and horticulture courses, and seasonal dining feasts throughout the year. Rock Point Inn is in prime position for both the Marine Parade and the South West Coast Path. • More great hotels in Dorset The southernmost town on the Isle of Wight, Ventnor has been a seaside resort since Victorian times, when sea bathing and bracing seaside walks were touted as a miracle cure-all for a nation suffering from the effects of mass industrialisation. The town has had its ups and downs since then, and while its nickname of 'Mayfair by the Sea' might by overdoing it a little, it's a lovely spot, framed by the chalky cliffs of St Boniface Down and its own small patch of sand, and handy for some of the best walks on the Isle of Wight. The town's botanic garden is also a must-see. The stalwart place to stay is the Royal Hotel, a large, Victorian affair with an air of bygone days. • Best hotels in the Isle of Wight When it comes to exploring the Inner Hebrides, Skye is not the limit. Less-visited Mull has plenty to offer, and nowhere more so than in its colourful little capital, Tobermory. Just 1,000 people live in this tiny fishing port, making the kaleidoscopic façades of its sea-facing homes all the more remarkable. Beyond the pleasing aesthetic, there's an 18th-century whisky distillery, while a continual stream of yachties over summer means the shorefront restaurants and pubs are far better than many elsewhere in the Highlands. Meanwhile, the family-friendly Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust provides lots of fun for children. The Western Isles Hotel, set back from the main town, has a gorgeous view of Tobermory Bay. • Best beaches in Scotland Depending on your perspective, the grande dame of Welsh seaside tourism has a formula that either doesn't need fixing or is unfixable. It's the embodiment of a classic Victorian beach town and has a promenade, sandy stretches on either side of the Creuddyn peninsula and, against considerable odds, a Punch and Judy show. The Codman family's puppets have been delighting and confusing kids with their domestic disharmony since 1860. Away from the shore, most visitors now also choose to spend some time hiking the hulking peak known as the Great Orme. You've got plenty of options when it comes to seafront hotels, but the Quay Hotel is a go-to for its swish spa and estuary views. • Best beaches in Wales• The best of Wales For sports fans, Portrush really only appeared on the map when the Open returned to this Northern Irish seaside town in 2019 after an absence of 68 years; the town hosts it again in 2025. For locals its popularity was never in doubt, but the buzz around the golf tournament has helped to fund some rebuilding and improvements — though not to the crumbling ruins of the clifftop Dunluce Castle. For a more typical coastal experience, try the East Strand for two miles of sandy beach and reliable surf-ready waves every summer — or make a pilgrimage to the Giant's Causeway nearby. The Port Hotel is right on the main stretch and is close to the harbour. At once the most and least Scottish town in the nation, much of St Andrews doesn't feel as if it has locals in mind, but rather the legions of golfers who travel from across the planet to play at what is considered the world's oldest course. Ignore the faux tartan-shortbread nature of parts of the town: it's still a lovely place to visit, whether strolling along its windswept beaches, watching people nervously tee off on the Old Course, or visiting the St Andrews University buildings. Britain's third-oldest university was already a remarkable place, long before Wills and Kate met there as students. For old school charm and luxury, try the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa. • Best beaches in Scotland The last stop before the Scottish border, Berwick has borne the brunt of many an Anglo-Scottish conflict — a fact that's plainly evident in the town's martial architecture, not least its 18th-century barracks and impressive Elizabethan walls, which you can follow for more than a mile along the North Sea. The town is well placed for a tour of Northumberland's coastal castles, with Dunstanburgh, Alnwick and Bamburgh all on the list. Top pub quiz fact: despite the fact that it's on the English side of the border, Berwick's football team plays in the Scottish league. Bed down at the Queens Head Hotel, a lovely little bolt hole with just six rooms. Dinbych-y-pysgod ('fortress of the fish' in Welsh) or Tenby is one of south Wales's most popular seaside spots, convenient for jaunts into Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. At the town's core is its Norman castle, but it's Tenby's colourful Georgian terraces and pretty harbour that are the principal attraction for most people. A boat trip to nearby Caldey Island makes for a fun day out. There's a line-up of properties facing the coast in Tenby, and Giltar Hotel benefits from spacious, modern rooms. • The UK's best islands for a weekend break Too many people use the one-time smugglers' port of Lymington for nothing more than catching the ferry to the Isle of Wight. Those who linger are glad they did — cobbled streets house outstanding restaurants, including the exceptional Elderflower, as well as an array of nautical shops ready to kit you out before you hit the sea. There may not be much in the way of beach life here, but sailing culture is everywhere. Whether you're an experienced helmsman, a total novice, or just like looking at the boats, the busy marina will have plenty for you. Stanwell House Hotel on the main strip serves brilliant cocktails and has fun, colourful bedrooms. • Best hotels in Hampshire This long-beloved coastal town in North Yorkshire has two distinct faces, either side of the River Esk — the East Cliff and the West Cliff. Fishermen's cottages adorn the former, while the latter is a more recognisable Victorian neighbourhood. Whitby Sands brings a classically British seaside experience, but the town has much more besides — history buffs will revel in knowing that the mighty Captain Cook sailed from this harbour, while the ever-daunting Whitby Abbey offered inspiration for the Dracula author Bram Stoker. If you've packed your hiking boots, you can always trek the five miles from there to beautiful Robin Hood's Bay too. Stay at the Belfry, a handsome B&B in a classic red-brick townhouse: the breakfast is superb, and you're only a minute or two from Whitby's grandest seafront street, Royal Crescent. • The best of Yorkshire The double-headed peninsula known as the Rhins of Galloway gets bypassed by many tourists rushing to get north. Sitting in the heart of it, Portpatrick is a beauty, with scenic coastal walks, a historic port and a series of excellent, locally owned hotels. Being based here also allows for easy exploration of the rest of this singular region, including the chance to visit the Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, the southernmost point of Scotland. From there, Northern Ireland and the Isle of Man are visible on clear days, as are hundreds of seabirds nesting on the dramatic cliffs. The Crown Hotel is a pub with cosy rooms right on the waterfront. Whitstable holds all the charms of a small fishing town, with a busy working harbour where fresh catch — oysters rather than fish in this case — is still landed daily. Time your visit for September and you can join all the festivities of the Whitstable Rocks Oyster Festival, celebrating the town's main trade. At other times of the year, you'll enjoy strolling along the seafront to the shingle beach, before decamping to one of the excellent seafood restaurants on the shoreline. Whitstable Oyster Company is particularly good, just make sure you order a zippy white wine with your seafood supper. For a rustic, self-catering stay, make your base at Whistable Fisherman's Huts. Located at the meeting point of the River Exe and the sea, Exmouth is a dreamy coastal escape with a golden sandy beach and seaside promenade furnished with ice cream stops. Its sheltered bay means conditions are perfect for taking to the water, whether your choice of vessel is a kayak or a paddleboard. And further along the coast begins the Jurassic Coast — for all the keen fossil hunters. The culinary stalwart Michael Caines has made his home in nearby Lympstone Manor, a country hotel where Michelin-starred dining meets a small vineyard and outdoor pool, all with a view of the water. • Best luxury hotels in Devon Tiny Fishguard might be small but it's perfectly formed. The town is split into two halves by geography. Lower Town is next to the natural harbour, where a row of cottages faces boats bobbing on the water and sea kayakers set off with regularity. A short hike up the cliffs to the west you'll find the Main Town, which surveys the picturesque coast. Directly opposite on the east is Fishguard Fort, and the start of the scenic Pembrokeshire Coast Path. There are a handful of holiday homes near the harbour but JT Abergwaun Hotel in the Main Town is a better base if you want to be out and about. Folkestone has rightly earned plaudits for regenerating its harbour over the past decade, but for a singular seaside experience, head to eerie Dungeness, 20 miles along the coast. A shale beach in the shadow of a nuclear power plant may not exactly call to mind images of string vests or buckets and spades, but this photographer's dream is worth a detour. The eponymous hamlet is home to a couple of art galleries as well as the artist Derek Jarman's Prospect Cottage, the residence in which he lived until his death until 1994. There are plenty of holiday cottages, including the striking Shingle House, a modernist masterpiece that sits right on the shingle next to the Dungeness's old beachside rail line. What's your favourite seaside town? Let us know in the comments below
Telegraph
14-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
A Visit to Friends, Aldeburgh Festival: an exceptionally subtle and affecting take on Chekhov
The composer Colin Matthews has been for so long a central part of the Aldeburgh Festival, assisting Benjamin Britten in his final years, then as chairman of the Britten Estate, and mentor of so many young composers at the Britten-Pears School, that it is perhaps surprising that he has never written an opera. Now, working with the novelist William Boyd as librettist, he has conceived an exceptionally subtle and affecting one-act drama, interweaving an imaginary chamber opera based on a Chekhov short story with a modern rehearsal of the piece, with eloquently entangled results. The original Chekhov narrative of 1898 is a meditation on the transience of happiness and innocence lost: Misha is revisiting the dilapidated country estate where the mature Vadia and the younger Nadia live, and their emotional states are rekindled as both are in love with him – or the idea of him – but he cannot commit to either. The 10 scenes alternate between this story and the modern rehearsal of a newly-rediscovered opera based on it, with the characters Natalie and Vanessa playing the two women and Marcus as the visitor. This could all be deeply confusing, but the clear direction by Rachael Hewer, and designs by Leanne Vandenbussche, sharply clarifies the interactions, mostly with a set that revolves between the scenes, alternating the opera's Chekhovian setting with the modern rehearsal room. A well-observed rehearsal pianist supports the singers and the director Gregor, who also plays a silent Chekhov at the start and finish (with impeccably behaved dog Shosty). There is a clear delineation between old and new in this staging, but Matthews has chosen not to reflect this in his score, which is through-composed in an idiom that echoes the early style of the Russian composer Scriabin rather than his own mature modernism. This blurs the temporal framing of the piece, and cleverly enables him to evoke a rhapsodic romanticism at the moments when the two women express their love for the same man. It becomes increasingly clear that both Misha back then, and Marcus right now, cannot cope with the women's attentions, and he retreats from the scene. The revelation of the present-day relationships renders the opera impossible to produce. Misha's ultimate dilemma, his weakness, is the focus of Chekhov's story, and really the story should just evaporate at this point, but here it is Vanessa who has the last word with a visionary aria about life's choices as the scenery hovers between old and new. The four singers – Lotte Betts-Dean and Susanna Hurrell as Varia/Vanessa and Nadia/Natalie, Marcus Farnsworth as Misha/Marcus and Edward Hawkins as the director Gregor – project Boyd's rather conversational text with clarity, and while Matthews's vocal writing may not provide sharp delineation between the characters, it is beautifully crafted to allow the words to project. As has happened before in Matthews's pre-operatic work with voices, it is in the dramatic instrumental interludes between the scenes that the passions are fully unleashed, and conductor Jessica Cottis evokes these powerfully with the superb players of the Aurora Orchestra. We are left with the regretful, Chekhovian sense that much remains unspoken and unsung in the taut drama we have witnessed.
