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The French duo selling Italian food to the British (and smashing it)
The French duo selling Italian food to the British (and smashing it)

Telegraph

time02-06-2025

  • Business
  • Telegraph

The French duo selling Italian food to the British (and smashing it)

The restaurant is packed, full of noise, laughter and loud chatter. Italian voices punctuate the air as diners dive into big bowls of pasta, pizzas and tables loaded with antipasti. I could be in Rome, Naples, Milan or any Italian city. Except I'm not. I'm in Paris – at one of Big Mamma's 29 restaurants that span seven countries. While it may ooze all things Italian, Big Mamma is actually the brainchild of two Frenchmen and started its life in Paris. Since its first trattoria, East Mamma, opened in the 11th arrondissement in 2015, the restaurant group has gone on to expand across Europe, including to the UK, where its five London restaurants attract lengthy queues and get rave reviews. At the end of 2024 it added La Bellezza in Birmingham to the list (its first British location outside the capital) and on June 6 Circolo Popolare will launch in Manchester – both delivering the brand's trademark wow-factor interiors (evoking a Sardinian festa, complete with twinkling festoon lights, in the case of the Deansgate venue) and Willy Wonka-esque dishes such as carbonara or creamy truffle pasta served in giant cheese wheels, and towering slabs of lemon meringue pie. On paper, it's hard to follow the logic. An Italian brand, conceived in Paris, using ingredients from Italy, and somehow garnering success everywhere from Munich to Monaco. Against a backdrop of what is undoubtedly a torrid time for hospitality, with big-name UK restaurant closures being announced almost every month (notably TV chef Gary Usher's Burnt Truffle in January, and Tom Kerridge 's Chelsea-based Butcher's Tap & Grill in May). So what is Big Mamma's secret? There's the age-old ethos that quality ingredients are key. Then there's the recent trend of creating restaurant interiors to impress those of us who post on Instagram before their first mouthful. But for Big Mamma's co-founder Tigrane Seydoux, the main thing is ensuring the price is right. That doesn't necessarily mean rolling out the same-priced dish in every location (unlike big chains, prices can vary between Big Mamma venues), but rather for customers to feel that, whatever the price point, they've enjoyed food at the top end of the scale for what they're paying – with the bonus of devouring it in a gorgeous space with authentic Italian service. 'It's quite difficult to identify Big Mamma in the [traditional framework] of the restaurant landscape,' Seydoux tells me. 'We're not a chain; we don't think about taking a recipe that has worked for one site and just copy-pasting that to other locations.' Instead, he says, they take a bespoke approach at each site – from the design and menu to the price point. 'Affordable,' Seydoux explains, has a different meaning for different clientele. 'We run restaurants with a 25-euro average spend up to a 90-euro average spend. We might not have the best product that exists on the market,' he admits, 'but at the price we are doing it, it is the best, and I think people value that a lot.' Seydoux stresses that he didn't set out with his co-founder, Victor Lugger, to 'revolutionise the restaurant industry'. Instead, he argues, 'what you're seeing is pretty much what any restaurant should be – offering something good on the plate, somewhere you are welcomed in the right way,' and for the right price. While each restaurant may feel unique, Seydoux admits they share a 'common DNA and common culture' – something he sums up as a 'happy mess', in which 'there is imperfection, but that gives soul and authenticity to a place'. Even the former Sunday Times restaurant critic, Marina O'Loughlin, while classing the food 'a bit crap' on her visit in 2019, hailed London's Circo Popolare as 'the restaurant where you will have the time of your life.' Seydoux and Lugger, who graduated from business school in Paris together (Seydoux to work for a luxury hotel brand, Lugger in the music industry), drew upon their shared passion for Italian cuisine when founding Big Mamma, but they weren't ignorant to its popularity and potential in the French market – nor to the power of social media. In their Paris restaurants I take in everything – from flower-adorned entrances to Rod Stewart-inspired toilets, while at Carlotta in London a statue of the Virgin Mary in boxing gloves watches over the bathroom wash basins. In Birmingham, La Bellezza boasts seven-metre-long tapestry curtains and handmade Murano glass chandeliers for its Perugia-inspired setting. Customers will get to dine in jasmine-draped courtyards in Manchester. This is 'doing it for the 'gram', and then some. Then there's the staffing. It's not my imagination that I can hear Italian accents; 80 per cent of Big Mamma's staff are recruited directly from Italy, as it's the founders' belief that the 'Italianity' they want to peddle must be delivered by Italian people. And we Britons – as well as the French – are lapping it up. The company's turnover was over £44m in 2024. When private equity firm McWin took on a majority stake in 2023, the deal valued the business at £233m (even though Lugger admitted that interest from investors ahead of the purchase 'was less' than he had expected). Big Mamma's combination of 'brash, eye-catching decor and theatrical food presentation is highly appealing to the Instagram-driven millennial generation, encouraging social media sharing and viral marketing,' says Zoe Adjey, senior lecturer in hospitality and events management at the University of East London's Institute of Hospitality and Tourism. On top of this, their dishes come with 'an added element of theatre in the service' (cue silken pasta strands being tossed in that truckle of pecorino). By expanding into six European countries outside of the UK, the company has diversified its market and reduced its exposure to challenges faced by UK hospitality, Adjey believes. Isabelle Shepherd, partner at accountancy firm HaysMac, attributes Big Mamma's success to a combination of elements, including the novelty factor of some of its dishes. 'Generally people these days want more than a typical casual dining concept, and they provide that.' Add to that the use of social media to record those experiences and you've got the perfect marketing tool for a generation that looks to Instagram and TikTok for inspiration about where to eat out. The same platforms can, of course, quickly turn sour, as Big Mamma discovered in 2024 when the group was criticised by disgruntled diners for applying a 'checkout fee' on its optional payment app, Sunday, on top of a service charge – a fee that still remains when paying via the app, though bills can be paid by card or cash without incurring a fee). Seydoux admits it isn't easy when your business is growing exponentially. Certain aspects of growth work in their favour, such as when sourcing direct from Italy, with volume helping them to work with smaller suppliers. But when growth starts to impact Big Mamma's ability to do what it does best, he acknowledges that could be the sign to slow down. Somehow, as another carbonara is captured by a sea of smartphone cameras, that doesn't seem likely any time soon…

The 10 best new London restaurant openings in June 2025
The 10 best new London restaurant openings in June 2025

Time Out

time02-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

The 10 best new London restaurant openings in June 2025

News Smashburgers, celeb-run restos, canal-side bistros and the return of Big Mamma feature in Time Out's best restaurants opening in the capital this month Another month comes with another bunch of plucky cooks risking it all to launch themselves upon London's hungry masses. When it comes to new chain-y stuff, Lina Stores continues its eau de nil-shaded takeover via the medium of al-dente pasta with a Canary Wharf branch, while Harry's opens its fourth Italian restaurant in King's Cross. Meanwhile, Fortnum & Mason Royal Exchange will be home to a summer residency by seafood zaddy Rick Stein. Here's the best of the rest. The 10 best new London restaurants opening in June 2025 1. The one with a famous person Lupa, Highbury Depending on your level of addiction to Deux Moi, the most compelling thing about this north London-based Roman-style trattoria isn't the supplì al telefono croquettes, but the fact that White Lotus alumni Theo James is part of the team. The dishy actor has joined forces with restauranter and Carousel co-founder Ed Templeton to open Lupa, and ex-Pidgin head chef Naz Hassan will be in charge of the kitchen. Expect carbonara, puntarelle, and a steady influx of flustered local mums. Lupa opens late June. 3 Highbury Park, N5 1UA 2. The Euro burger place Dumbo, Shoreditch French smashburger titans Dumbo are opening their first London location in mid-June. Their first joint outside of Paris, the powerfully brief menu sees them serving up cheeseburgers, veggie burgers, fries (French, of course) and chicken nuggets. And that's basically it. 119 Bethnal Green Road, E2 7DG 3. A telly chef branches out Gina, Chingford You might have been following pastry chef, author and Junior Bake Off presenter Ravneet Gill's journey to opening her new restaurant on Instagram (and Substack) in which she and chef husband Mattie Taiano go into furious detail about 'launching our first restaurant in the worst year for restaurants ever'. Intense! The family-run chophouse opens on June 11. 92 Station Road, Chingford, E4 7BA 4. The trendy one by the water Canal, Westbourne Park With perfect summer timing comes the June 30 opening of Canal. With a prime position next to the Grand Union Canal, it comes from the same sturdy stable as Crispin and Bistro Freddie. New York chef Adrian Hernandez Farina is helming a very 2025 menu of bistro bangers, from polenta flatbreads to seabream crudo with burnt blood orange and ricotta agnolotti with cavolo nero and pecorino. But the slickest thing about Canal? Nicholas Daley has designed the staff uniforms – including a kilt. 11B Woodfield Road, Westbourne Park, W9 2BA 5. The new Big Mamma one Barbarella, Canary Wharf It's been a while since Big Mamma launched one of their outre trattorias in London, but Barbarella is making up for lost time, with a massive mirrored glass bar, 1970s-style chrome lounge area, and walls draped with silk. A pervy kind of paradise, by the sounds of things. Food is set to be equally over-the-top; caramelised tomato tatin with Parmigiano cream, a mega 1.2kg T-bone steak, and a one-metre long spaghettone. Barbarella opens June 20. YY Building, 30 South Colonnade, Canary Wharf, E14 5HX 6. The fabulous fish one Noisy Oyster, Shoreditch A fishy new spot from Madina Kazhimova and Anna Dolgushina from Soho's Firebird, Noisy Oyster is all about seafood classics from Italy, Spain, Portugal, and France but made with local, UK catches. The menu is inventive, verging on the pleasantly unhinged; oysters come with a smoked tomato water and horseradish mignonette, while scallops are dressed with pickled raspberry, chilli and basil oil, There's also a confit tuna nicoişe, pressed skate schnitzel with mixed peach panzanella, and crab, bisque and fennel orecchiette. Mini martinis are the move when it comes to drinks. Noisy Oyster opens June 20. 2 Nicholls Clarke Yard, Shoreditch, E1 6SH 7. The new Chilean hotspot Mareida, Fitzrovia Chilean cuisine isn't overly represented in London, which makes the opening of Mareida all the more intriguing. The Chilean team includes head chef Trinidad Vial Della Maggiora and Carolina Bazán, who was voted Latin America's Best Female Chef in 2019 by the World's 50 Best. Expect very good things. 160 Great Portland Street, W1W 5QA 8. An all-day Vietnamese canteen Lai Rai, Peckham Bringing all-day bánh mì to the masses, Lai Rai is a 'new school' Vietnamese coffee spot by day and a snack shop and beer house by night. Come for fried prawn on sugarcane stalks with peanut and nước chấm satay sauce, papaya jellyfish salad with pineapple, and twice-cooked crispy chicken. 181 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4TP 9. The spruced up pub William The Fourth, Leyton Exale, one of our favourite breweries in London, is behind this revamped grand Victorian boozer. Reopening on June 12, it'll come with the arrival of Short Road Pizza – also in residence at Exale's Bethnal Green pub Three Colts – a Romana thin crust style pie with American-leaning toppings, and, yes, plenty of hot honey. Expect pints and cocktails as well as DJs, big games on the telly, quiz nights, and karaoke. 816 High Rd, Leyton, E10 6AE 10. Surf and also turf Island, King's Cross Big chef lads Brad Carter and Tom Brown are coming together to launch a new restaurant takeover at the King's Cross outpost of Mare Street Market. Island – which you'll find in the venue's Chandelier Room – is tribute to surf and turf, with the duo pushing a coastal-take on the classic American steakhouse. Expect caviar crisps, pickled cockles, oyster caesar salad, trout pastrami and quail stuffed with prawn paella on the fishy side of things, as well as a mighty mixed grill.

Big Mamma's Viral Italian Restaurants Expands to Dubai
Big Mamma's Viral Italian Restaurants Expands to Dubai

CairoScene

time09-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • CairoScene

Big Mamma's Viral Italian Restaurants Expands to Dubai

The European restaurant collective behind London's Gloria and Jacuzzi is preparing to bring its maximalist spin to the UAE. Apr 22, 2025 The Big Mamma Group, the cult-favourite collective behind some of Europe's most photographed restaurants, is making its way to Dubai. Known for their eccentric interiors, oversized pasta dishes, and theatrical service, the group has quietly hinted at their first Middle East opening via a recent job listing for a Head of Communications role based in the UAE. While the group has yet to formally announce the exact location or concept, the move marks Big Mamma's first foray outside of Europe. Founded in Paris, the group now operates 28 restaurants across cities including London, Paris, Madrid, and Milan. In the UK capital, names like Gloria, Jacuzzi, and Ave Mario are as well known for their interiors—think velvet booths, hand-painted tiles, and art-lined ceilings—as they are for their ricotta-stuffed ravioli and Nutella-filled desserts. Dubai's restaurant scene is no stranger to theatrical dining, but Big Mamma's arrival could inject a new wave of high-energy trattoria culture into the city—one where oversized parmesan wheels, cheeky menus, and flamboyant plating are all part of the draw. Whether the Dubai outpost will mimic one of its European siblings or introduce a brand-new concept remains to be seen, but for fans of maximalist Italian dining, the wait has officially begun.

It looks like the renowned Big Mamma Group is opening a Dubai restaurant
It looks like the renowned Big Mamma Group is opening a Dubai restaurant

What's On

time22-04-2025

  • Business
  • What's On

It looks like the renowned Big Mamma Group is opening a Dubai restaurant

Big Mamma Group is behind some of Europe's most Instagrammable – and over-the-top – Italian restaurants… Foodies, get excited! Big Mamma's viral Italian restaurants have become some of the most photographed culinary hotspots in London, Paris and Madrid. And now they're expanding their restaurant empire and landing in Dubai. Although we don't have many details yet, a LinkedIn post advertising for a Head of Communications role confirms that Dubai will become home to the first Big Mamma restaurant outside of Europe. With a location and concept still to be confirmed, we'll have to wait on more information to be revealed soon. But the post does suggest that the city could be getting more than one Big Mamma concept. We can't wait. Currently, Big Mamma operates 28 restaurants across the UK, France, Spain, Germany, Monaco, Belgium and Italy. Over the last decade, Big Mamma Group has created some of the most talked-about Italian restaurants in Europe's culinary capitals. The restaurants are renowned for recreating the quintessential Italian trattoria experience with lashings of personality, audacious décor and over-the-top dishes. Their OG London restaurant, Gloria is an ode to Italy's southern coast with a retro touch and easily fills up reservations months in advance. It's since been followed up with equally Instagrammable, fun-filled and tricky-to-get-into Circolo Popolare, Ave Mario, Carlotta, and Jacuzzi, in London, plus La Bellezza in Birmingham. Whether it's one of these concepts that the group brings to Dubai – or something exclusive to the city – remains to be seen. Big Mamma Group isn't the only international hospitality group making its Dubai debut this year. At Ciel Tower, the soon-to-be world's tallest hotel, Permanently Unique Group are gearing up to launch Manchester-born pan-Asian restaurant Tattu in Dubai. And over in DIFC, upcoming openings include London's iconic Scott's and Mr Chow restaurants. Coming soon to the Palm Jumeirah will be one of the hottest tickets on New York's dining circuit, Carbone. Images: Big Mamma Group

Big Mamma to launch sixth London restaurant in Canary Wharf
Big Mamma to launch sixth London restaurant in Canary Wharf

Yahoo

time16-04-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Big Mamma to launch sixth London restaurant in Canary Wharf

Italian restaurant group Big Mamma is expanding its London presence with its sixth venue, Barbarella, in the corporate district of Canary Wharf. Scheduled to open in June 2025, the new restaurant will be situated in the YY Building and feature a 1970s Roman cinema-inspired theme. Barbarella's interior design will showcase vintage Ferragamo silks and a mirrored glass bar, with a reflective 70s chromed lounge upstairs. At the heart of the restaurant will be an open kitchen, led by Rome-born Marco Rastelli who will introduce a daily-changing menu including metre-long spaghettone, pizzas and pasta. The menu will also offer Cornish lemon sole, grilled steaks ranging from fillet to a 1.2kg T-bone, and a dedicated gelato section. The opening of Barbarella follows the successful launch of Big Mamma's first regional restaurant, La Bellezza, in Birmingham in November 2024. The group continues to manage its five other London restaurants, which include Gloria, Circolo Popolare and Carlotta, all of which were described as fully booked one month in advance throughout 2023. Established in 2013, Big Mamma aims to emulate the authenticity and warmth of traditional Italian trattorias internationally. The group prides itself on sourcing produce directly from small Italian producers, offering 100% homemade dishes at affordable prices. In September 2023, private investment company McWin Capital Partners signed a partnership deal to acquire a majority stake in Big Mamma. The acquisition was part of McWin Capital's strategy to strengthen its position in the European dining industry. "Big Mamma to launch sixth London restaurant in Canary Wharf" was originally created and published by Verdict Food Service, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site. Sign in to access your portfolio

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