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How Thai is that green curry?
How Thai is that green curry?

Mint

time3 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Mint

How Thai is that green curry?

I mention the words 'green curry" on the Zoom call, and chef David Thompson fires his first salvo. 'I've opened restaurants across the world, and one of the least controversial dishes I've ever had is the green curry. But here (in India), everybody has an opinion on it and I just think to myself; wow, it's a simple dish. Why is it so contentious?" Thompson, who has nearly four decades of global experience in Thai cuisine under his belt, is the culinary director at the recently opened Fireback in Mumbai. And the dish in question is the khmoy green curry, a robust, spicy dish loaded with heart of palm, babycorn, and cauliflower served with fragrant jasmine rice. It's quite unlike the coconut milk-based green curry in your average Thai restaurant in Mumbai (which Thompson likens to cream of asparagus soup). I remember eating this dish at Fireback Goa when it opened in December 2023, and I revisited it in Mumbai last week. In both instances, it blew my socks off and reminded me of what Thai food tastes like in Thailand—bold and flavourful. Sydney-born Thompson has lived in Thailand since the 1980s, and has been running a string of Thai restaurants around the world, including Michelin-starred ones in Bangkok and Hong Kong. 'I have delved pretty deeply into the cuisine; I've had to because I ain't Thai, so I had to build up a repertoire from scratch." Mumbai (and India) is no stranger to Thai cuisine, but we have largely eaten a certain version of it with creamy coconut-based curries, peanutty satays, and bird's eye chilli-flecked stir-fries. That is not to say these are not 'authentic" Thai flavours, but there's so much more as I found out on my first trip to Thailand more than a decade ago. Every subsequent trip drove home the fact that the Thai food in Mumbai just about scrapes the tip of the iceberg. Brand chef Kaustubh Haldipur at Fireback, who along with his team, was extensively trained in Bangkok by Thompson, says, 'Most of the curry dishes come from the central plains, but Fireback's menu also includes some dishes from southern Thailand, like the chicken gorlae." These are grilled skewers coated with the zingy coconut-based gorlae sauce topped with crispy shallots, and served with ajad, a spicy relish of cucumber, shallots, and chillies. The vegetarian version has pumpkin and sweet potato skewers, all from the Josper grill that takes centre stage in Fireback's glass-walled kitchen. Both the green and red curries have a spicy kick to them, somewhat mitigated by the rice that's served alongside. 'My responsibility is to do my utmost to be as faithful to the cuisine as possible and execute it with as much finesse as I possibly can muster," says Thompson. Other signature dishes include the Massaman curry with pumpkin, potatoes, coriander seeds, and peanuts as well as the jungle curry with pork that packs in quite a bit of heat. The mango and sticky rice that comes next calms the fire in my mouth, but it's the grilled banana that's the real treat. Served with condensed milk ice cream and crispy roti, it's a take on the popular street dessert, Thai roti or crispy pancake with condensed milk and banana. 'It's ultimately about contentment. I hope guests leave not just satisfied, but quietly joyful—from the flavours on the plate to the attentiveness of the service. When those elements come together, it becomes more than a meal; it becomes a memorable experience," says Thompson. And memorable it is. I'm still thinking about the chicken gorlae, reminiscent of the many grilled skewers I've scarfed in Bangkok's night markets. Prachi Joshi is a Mumbai-based travel and food writer.

EHV International Brings Fireback to Mumbai
EHV International Brings Fireback to Mumbai

The Wire

time14-07-2025

  • Business
  • The Wire

EHV International Brings Fireback to Mumbai

Mumbai, 14th July 2025 — Following the opening of Fireback in Goa last year, EHV International - the company behind genre-defining concepts like Indian Accent, Comorin, HOSA and Chor Bizarre - now brings its authentic Thai restaurant and bar to the heart of Mumbai at Nilaya Anthology, Lower Parel. Named after Thailand's striking national bird — the Siamese Fireback — the restaurant is a tribute to the theatrics and fire-grilled boldness that define traditional Thai kitchens. At its helm is legendary Chef David Thompson, widely regarded as one of the world's foremost authorities on Thai cuisine. As Culinary Director of Fireback, Chef Thompson brings authenticity to shaping a menu that could well be seen in a leading restaurant in Bangkok. Chef David Thompson says, 'What an exciting prospect. We are looking forward to making Fireback fly in Mumbai and across India.' Rohit Khattar, Founder Chairman EHV International says, 'In 1999 in New Delhi, we opened what was perhaps India's first pan Asian restaurant, 'Oriental Octopus'. I always nurtured the desire to open an authentic, approachable Thai restaurant. Enter Chef David Thompson, whose cuisine I have always admired. Our accomplished team of chefs led by Brand Chef Kaustubh Haldipur were extensively trained in Bangkok by David. Our mixologist extraordinaire, Varun Sharma, too travelled through Asia to create an ideal cocktail list. We hope Mumbai enjoys Fireback, which, like Comorin, has the incredibly beautiful Nilaya Anthology as its abode.' From smokey wok-fried stir-fries and charred skewers to fiercely spiced jungle curries and refined classics, Fireback's menu is a study in contrast: sharp heat, soft herbs, bold ferments, and grilled intensity. The menu is structured to reflect the organic rhythm of Thai cooking — dishes are served in the order they are prepared, arriving hot from the grill or wok to be shared, savoured, and explored. The experience begins with bold, textural small plates like the Miang Kham, a betel leaf bundle layered with pomelo, toasted coconut and roasted peanuts, and the Mushroom larb, a northern Thai-style herb salad tossed with toasted rice powder and chilli. The Pineapple som tam, a sweet-sour reimagination of papaya salad with tamarind, palm sugar and peanuts, delivers both familiarity and surprise. Seafood- forward dishes like the Scallop salad — delicately spiced and bright with grated coconut and lemongrass — and the Crispy squid, finished with golden garlic and crushed black peppercorns, showcase a balance of clean, aromatic flavours with intense hits of umami. From the Josper grill that is centre stage emerge many fiery grills — the Banana leaf wrapped sea bass, marinated in dried red curry and coconut cream, with aromatic kaffir lime leaves sealing in the heat. The Lamb chop gorlae, a southern Thai-style grilled lamb served with crispy shallots and ajad pickle, is smokey, juicy, and bold. For something plant-forward, the Pumpkin and sweet potato, glazed in gorlae sauce and fire-grilled, is surprisingly rich in depth and texture. Larger plates include signature curries like the Massaman curry, with pumpkin, coriander seeds and peanuts — warm, spiced, and nostalgic, and the uncompromising Jungle curry of grilled pork, featuring house-made chilli paste, turmeric and deep-fried shallots. The Red curry with soft-shell crab, fragrant with ginger and lime leaves, offers a moment of richness and indulgence. For comfort and contrast, the Classic Thai omelette and Crab fried rice deliver familiarity, each elevated with restraint and technical finesse. Complementing the kitchen is an equally thoughtful beverage program crafted by EHV International's Head of Bars, Varun Sharma. Rooted in Thai ingredients and inventive technique, highlights include the Thai Spiced Diablo, made with tequila, fresh tomato water, a house Thai spice mix, and finished with a wasabi foam; and the Tom Yum Highball, with gin, guava and lemongrass cordial, kaffir lime, and sparkling water. The Mango Rice offers a playful take on Thailand's iconic dessert, blending rum with mango and rice cordial, while the Galangal brings depth with whisky, pickled galangal brine, and honey. From smokey and complex drinks like the Lapsang Old Fashioned to crisp and refreshing pours like the Lemongrass — a mix of mezcal, lemongrass, coconut, and carbonated water — the cocktail menu is designed to surprise and delight. Kevin Rodrigues, Head of Wines, EHV International, has curated a list of aromatic, fruit-forward wines with a hint of sweetness — ideal for balancing the spice and complexity of Thai cuisine. A wide selection of wines by the glass encourages guests to explore and discover pairings that elevate every bite. The interiors and exteriors have been designed by London's Russell Sage Studio, under the direction of EHV's Director Design, Rashmi Khattar. Architectural services are provided by Incubis Consultants (India). The design is a perfect fusion of tradition and modernity. Fireback restaurant embodies the warmth, energy and authenticity of Thai culture, reimagined through a sustainable and modern lens. The space blends in a grounded material palette with clean aesthetics and subtle oriental gestures. You are welcomed with a striking ceiling light feature suspended in gentle curves creates a wave like canopy that runs the length of the dining area casting a soft glow on the ceiling paster finish. The interior design of the space feels very exciting, energetic, cool and confident. Simple design with unfussy playful moments that connect displaying the mix of easy warmth and dash of urban chic - unfussy like the menu. Fireback Mumbai Location: Entrance through Comorin at Nilaya Anthology, Mumbai Opening Date: 14th July 2025 Reservations: 91 022 35387627 Instagram: @firebackrestaurant About EHV ( EHV International is a pioneering hospitality company that creates and manages industry-leading restaurant concepts, including Indian Accent, Comorin, Hosa, Fireback and Chor Bizarre. (Disclaimer: The above content is a press release and PTI takes no editorial responsibility for the same.).

Heartbroken trainer Warren Greatrex opens up on the tragic deaths of three stable lads at his yard in just four years
Heartbroken trainer Warren Greatrex opens up on the tragic deaths of three stable lads at his yard in just four years

The Sun

time01-07-2025

  • Sport
  • The Sun

Heartbroken trainer Warren Greatrex opens up on the tragic deaths of three stable lads at his yard in just four years

HEARTBROKEN trainer Warren Greatrex has bravely opened up on the deaths of three young workers at his yard - remembering them all as 'great lads'. The Lambourn-based jumps trainer has had to be a father figure and counsellor for those rocked by the suicides of Michael Pitt, David Thompson and, most recently, Billy Moffatt. 3 3 3 Pitt was just 19 and a promising amateur jockey when he took his own life in July 2021. Greatrex, who had just moved to his Rhonehurst yard at the time, described the soul-crushing experience as 'horrible'. Just seven months later, in February 2022, popular stable lad Thompson, 25, was found dead. The huge Chelsea fan, who was reported missing in the days prior, had written a letter saying the happiest days of his life had been working for Greatrex, who said the second death 'hit me so hard'. Then in May this year, Moffatt, who was in his early 20s, was found dead in his accommodation - the third death in just four years. Greatrex, a Cheltenham Festival-winning trainer, admitted he 'never thought' he would have to go through such shock and pain. He told Luck on Sunday on Racing TV the passing of all three and the devastating impact on those who worked alongside them every day was still 'raw'. And he said to know the lads you would have had absolutely no idea any were struggling to the extent they were. Explaining the magnitude of the losses and how best he tried to deal with it, an emotional Greatrex said: "I am the trainer so when I have a member of staff I am like a father figure as well. "Parents entrust you to look after their children. "I do feel responsible and all I am, and have been worried about, is everyone else. "I never thought I'd have a situation like this. "Even now it's tough to talk about - but in the situation all you are worried about is everyone else. "None of those three lads you would have had any idea that they would do that. "All three lads were really good young men. They were funny, good to be around. "Billy was a larger-than-life Newcastle lad who touched a lot of people because he was great fun to be around. "But there aren't any signs." Greatrex also spoke about the stresses and strains of working in the sport and how charity Racing Welfare have helped. He said while 'no words can describe the devastation' of the deaths, Racing Welfare were at his yard 'within minutes' to offer support to those coming to terms with the losses. His words pleading for more to be done with alcohol and drugs in racing came just days after champion jockey Oisin Murphy was charged with drink-driving ahead of his appearance at Reading Magistrates' Court on Thursday. Greatrex continued: "I think when you're surrounded by young people there will be times when there will be drinking, there will be drug use - that's just the way of the world now unfortunately. "Maybe there is a way that people can recognise it (drug use) and help people with what they can and can't do, or at least guide them in the right direction. You're Not Alone EVERY 90 minutes in the UK a life is lost to suicide It doesn't discriminate, touching the lives of people in every corner of society – from the homeless and unemployed to builders and doctors, reality stars and footballers. It's the biggest killer of people under the age of 35, more deadly than cancer and car crashes. And men are three times more likely to take their own life than women. Yet it's rarely spoken of, a taboo that threatens to continue its deadly rampage unless we all stop and take notice, now. That is why The Sun launched the You're Not Alone campaign. The aim is that by sharing practical advice, raising awareness and breaking down the barriers people face when talking about their mental health, we can all do our bit to help save lives. Let's all vow to ask for help when we need it, and listen out for others… You're Not Alone. If you, or anyone you know, needs help dealing with mental health problems, the following organisations provide support: CALM, 0800 585 858 Heads Together, HUMEN Mind, 0300 123 3393 Papyrus, 0800 068 41 41 Samaritans, 116 123 "I always find when a member of staff comes into the yard I am responsible. "But when they leave the yard I can't keep an eye on them and have their back or look after them all the time. "There will be times when members of staff come to speak to me or someone else senior like Tessa my wife, and of course we always do our best to help them. "But when they leave the yard I am helpless. "Still, I want them to be able to come to me. "I am a father and when my children go anywhere, or to other yards, you want them to be looked after and navigated in the right direction."

Man with skin cancer urges Guernsey residents to wear sun cream
Man with skin cancer urges Guernsey residents to wear sun cream

BBC News

time30-06-2025

  • Health
  • BBC News

Man with skin cancer urges Guernsey residents to wear sun cream

An islander diagnosed with malignant skin cancer has urged Guernsey residents to wear sun Thompson found out he had melanoma which had spread to his lymph nodes almost three years said he was told his five-year chance of survival was "about two-thirds" which was "a very sobering, make-you-sit-up-and-notice statistic".In 2024, the number of people diagnosed with skin cancer in Guernsey hit the highest level in five years. States figures showed rates of skin cancer on the island were significantly higher than those in England. Diane Mathews, strategic screening lead at Public Health Guernsey, said skin cancer rates on the island were about 89% higher than the south-west of England. She put it down to islanders "not taking enough care in the sun" and the outdoor lifestyle people often led."We need to make [sun protection] more culturally acceptable and habit-forming," she added. Figures 'very concerning' A wellbeing survey conducted by the States every five years found that in 2023, 45.5% of respondents had one or more episodes of sunburn in the last year, up from 44.2% in 17.7% had not heard of any of the signs of skin cancer - an increase of more than 5% on 2018 - the survey found 93.5% of people did routinely use at least one of the sun protection measures the survey Mathews said the figures overall were "very concerning". "It's the exact combination you don't want to see - we've got increasing skin cancer figures at the same time as people doing less sun-safe behaviours." 'Prevention over cure' Mr Thompson, who swims outdoors all year round, has called for a skin cancer support group to be set up on the island, as well as the introduction of sun cream dispensers. "I wear factor 50 sun cream every day and I always wear long sleeves to cover up," he urged others to "take those precautions... as there isn't always a cure".BBC Guernsey has launched a Sun Safety Campaign about early detection and prevention of skin cancers, and will speak to experts about the importance of sun safety over the summer months.

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