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South China Morning Post

The secret power of salicylic acid, unsung superhero of skincare routines: a guide to its benefits and uses, and to finding complementary products for your skin type

Skincare has its fair share of fleeting trends and buzzy ingredients that rise to fame faster than the latest celebrity skincare line, only to fade into the background as the next big thing takes centre stage . But every now and then, an ingredient comes along with true staying power. Enter salicylic acid, the unassuming but undeniably effective beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that has been quietly holding down its A-list skincare status for years. Salicylic acid takes a no-nonsense approach to skincare. Pictured is Farmacy's Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pure Cleansing Toner. Photo: Handout For those grappling with oily skin, persistent breakouts, or that oh-so-charming constellation of blackheads, salicylic acid isn't just another product on the shelf: it's the go-to, the trusted ally, the non-negotiable. And unlike so many exfoliants that stick to surface-level theatrics, salicylic acid takes a no-nonsense approach, diving headfirst into the trenches, cutting through the chaos of clogged pores and breaking up the party where acne truly begins – deep inside your skin's oily underbelly. What is salicylic acid? Salicylic acid can slip through layers of sebum and dead skin cells to break apart oily build-up. Photo: Handout Advertisement Salicylic acid, also known as BHA, is an oil-soluble exfoliant that goes where others simply can't. 'While alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid stick to surface-level exfoliation, salicylic acid dives deeper, targeting your skin's oil glands with more precision,' certified dermatologist Dr Amy Blake says. Its unique structure enables it to slip through layers of sebum and dead skin cells, breaking apart the build-up that clogs pores and ignites inflammation. What are the benefits of using it? Salicylic acid also helps soothe the skin. Pictured is Naturium's BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2%. Photo: Handout And salicylic acid doesn't stop at unclogging pores. Blake explains that acne-prone skin is often inflamed, 'and that's where salicylic acid's anti-inflammatory superpowers come in, swooping down to dial back redness and soothe irritation', she says, the acid delivering the skincare equivalent of a tranquil spa day. And while calming your skin and clearing out pores, it also works behind the scenes, gently loosening the bonds between dead skin cells to help them shed naturally, leading to fewer breakouts, a smoother surface and an overall complexion that feels balanced and refreshed. Who should – and shouldn't – use it? Salicylic acid is not suited to all skin types. Pictured is Medik8 Press & Clear Exfoliating 2% BHA Tonic Gentle-Release Salicylic Acid. Photo: Handout