23-07-2025
This Memorable Dish Might Make Diners Think Differently About Salmon
A surprisingly saucy preparation served at Duke's Seafood in Seattle seems like a perfect way to open up a conversation about the very survival of the species of fish that travels from the ocean up rivers to spawn. When the owner of this restaurant group warns salmon are in danger of extinction, many shrug. Here's why it's important to listen up.
Duke Moscrip, founder of Duke's Seafood in Seattle, is on a mission to help save wild salmon.
Eat it to save it
Southern food historian Poppy Tooker has for decades been repeating a phrase her grandmother taught her: Eat it to save it. That catchy mantra could easily apply to wild salmon, which has seen its numbers steadily decline along the West Coast. Consumers and chefs have taken the bait, simply switching to farm-raised fish even after it's been proven to be unhealthy to eat and harmful to the environment.
Duke Moscrip has spent much of his career building a series of popular restaurants in and around Seattle, an ongoing endeavor that led him to the icy waters of Alaska. He spent many summers on board fishing vessels, observing how the fish were handled after they were caught. Those lessons led him to adopt a practice of serving only wild Alaskan salmon that had been frozen shortly after being caught at his restaurants.
It also opened his eyes to the dwindling fish runs along the West Coast, which led to his latest project. He established Duke's Damsel on a Train Foundation with Damsel Cellar's co-owner Heather Anderson to draw attention to the fish's fate. The organization hosts fundraisers to benefit various efforts to address the pressing issue.
There's reams of documents bolstering the cause, but the importance of protecting this species might be best discussed over a serving of one of Duke's signature salmon preparations.
Moscrip shared his recipe for Colonel Mustard's Wild Salmon:
Ingredients
6 ounces coho salmon
1 ounce olive oil
Pinch of sea salt
1 ounce Dijon mustard
2 ounces white wine
4 ounces heavy cream
1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh herb blend
Prep Notes:
Season and pan sear salmon. Flip salmon, when ¾ done, deglaze pan with white wine and add herbs, Dijon and Cream and incorporate and reduce. Sauce should thicken, but still be abundant enough to nearly cover plate. Serve with Jasmine rice and steamed veggies. Place salmon in middle on top of veggies and rice to give it height.
Serve it with the 2024 Damsel Cellars Dineen Vineyard Sémillon. Duke's restaurants features special releases from Damsel, a portion of the proceeds from each glass pour donated the Foundation.
Listen to Moscrip and Heather Anderson discuss the restoration efforts their foundation is tackling on a recent episode of Hot Stove Radio with chefs Tom Douglas and Bridget Charters.
For additional information on the importance of addressing this issue, check out the restoration efforts spearheaded by Save Our Wild Salmon.
And for an excellent source of frozen wild salmon, take a deep dive into the shipable offerings from Wild Alaskan Company.
