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Telegraph
20-05-2025
- Telegraph
This fun-loving Italian city remains untouched by mass tourism
'It's like a time machine,' says my new friend Fabrizio Croce, as he leads me down a long twilit tunnel within Perugia's ancient city walls. As darkness closes in around us, I soon see what he means. We board an escalator that carries us up and up, from the archaic foundations at the foot of this steep hill to the bustling citadel at the summit. We step out into the sunshine, and I realise we've traversed 3,000 years. We're standing in the Piazza Italia, surrounded by a sea of people. Some of them are here to eat and drink, in the sleek bars and cafés that surround this sunlit square, but most are simply drinking in the view. And what a view. Below us, lush countryside stretches far away into the heat haze on the horizon. Welcome to Umbria, aka the green heart of Italy. And welcome to Perugia, its underrated, relatively undiscovered capital. Like a lot of British travellers, I'd been to Tuscany several times before I even thought of visiting Umbria, its less fashionable and landlocked neighbour. More fool me. The gentle Umbrian countryside is just as beautiful as Tuscany, and since Umbria attracts fewer visitors, its landmarks are less crowded, and its hotels and restaurants tend to be better value. Umbria's main attraction is Assisi, the sacred homeland of St Francis, and it was St Francis who first lured me here a few years ago. Like many visitors to Umbria, I flew into Perugia's compact airport and then headed straight on to Assisi, about 10 miles away, without delay. When I told my Italian friends about my trip, they said I'd missed a treat. Unlike Assisi, Perugia isn't overrun with sightseers, they said. It's just as historic but a lot livelier, they said. I duly put Perugia on my Italian bucket list, and then promptly forgot all about it. With no must-see sights, it's the sort of holiday destination you tend to put off for another day. Last month, that day finally arrived – and it turns out my Italian friends were right. Perugia has all the essential elements of a classic city break: fascinating art and architecture, fantastic food and drink. Why had I never got around to coming here before? Perugia is such a pleasant spot, it's easy to forget it owes its spectacular location to its warlike past. The battlements that surround the Old Town are enormous, started by the Etruscans, completed by the Romans, augmented during the Renaissance and reinforced in every successive century. You can trace each period of Perugia's long history in these robust walls. Chatting to Fabrizio, a suave and amiable middle-aged man who works for the Comune di Perugia (Perugia's city council), I'm relieved to hear I'm not the only Briton who's previously bypassed this handsome city. Sure, Assisi is wonderful, famous for its holy sites and precious frescos, but it's rooted in the past. Despite its antique architecture, Perugia is young at heart. The thing that gives Perugia its youthful buzz is its thriving university. Founded way back in 1308, it's one of the oldest universities in the world (only Oxford, Cambridge and half a dozen others are older). It boasts around 26,000 students, most of whom seem to be milling around the Piazza Italia when I arrive. There's also a smaller second university, solely for foreign students, which gives Perugia a cosmopolitan flavour that belies its modest population – barely 160,000, about the same size as Mansfield. Fabrizio was a student here, half a lifetime ago. Like a lot of people who come here to study, he never left. He was born and raised in Naples, but you can tell his heart is here. He's passionate about Perugia and his enthusiasm is infectious. Although he works for Perugia's city council, he's not a typical bureaucrat – he's spent most of his working life as a musician and music promoter. Stylish and slightly grungy, he personifies Perugia's laid-back, vaguely anarchic ambience. Perugia's mayor, Vittoria Ferdinandi, only 38, also has a background outside politics. As Fabrizio walks me round town, we bump into her, quite by chance. Perugia is that sort of place. Fabrizio's office is in the Palazzo dei Priori – an ornate, intimidating building in the heart of the Old Town (in the olden days, criminals were hurled to their deaths from its upper windows, into the street below). It has been the seat of the city council since it was built, in the 14th century. On the top floor is the Galeria Nazionale dell'Umbria ( Umbria's most important art gallery. Its Renaissance artworks are the big draw, above all the intimate religious paintings of Pietro Vannucci, aka Perugino (like a lot of Italian artists, he was nicknamed after his hometown). A pupil of Piero della Francesca and a teacher of Raphael, his tender pictures are still fresh and vivid, over 500 years after he painted them. Seeing them in a palazzo he would have visited really brings them back to life. Perugia's broad piazzas are impressive, but its narrow backstreets are more alluring. Here you'll find the best streetlife – winding lanes lined with dank boltholes where locals sip their potent, fierce espressos and swig big goblets of Torgiano and Montefalco, the smooth, seductive local wine. By day, exploring this labyrinth of blind alleys is exhilarating. After dark, it seems more sinister. For all its flair and bonhomie, this feels like a city with a hard edge. As I follow these dingy rat-runs down the hillside, I feel like a detective in a spooky thriller, lost in a maze of dead-ends and cryptic clues. 'Drinking cocktails saves the planet,' reads the graffiti on an alley wall. Thankfully, during my three days in Perugia, these creepy sensations were only fleeting. When the sun shines, Umbria's capital seems like a happy, hopeful place – somewhere I'm eager to revisit. As I head for the airport, already planning my return trip, I recall how Fabrizio's eyes lit up when he told me about the visit of Miles Davis to Perugia's famous jazz festival ( held here every summer. Herbie Hancock and Lionel Richie are the big names this year. Maybe I'll see you there. How to get there Ryanair flies direct to Perugia from London Stansted. Where to stay Built in 1884, in a prime site on the elegant Piazza Italia, the five-star Sina Brufani is the grande dame of Umbrian hotels. Highlights include dramatic views from the rooftop terrace, and a swimming pool in the medieval vaults, built upon Etruscan foundations. Doubles from €252 per night, including breakfast – very good value for such a smart hotel. Where to eat and drink It's hard to go wrong eating out in Perugia. Here, even the most basic places serve first-rate food and drink. For superb coffee and scrumptious cakes and chocolates, head for Sandri, a debonair pasticceria founded in 1860. It's on Corso Vannucci, Perugia's grandest boulevard. The best sit-down meal I ate was at La Taverna, a traditional Italian restaurant hidden down a back alley, which breathes fresh life into familiar staples, supplemented by some superb local wines.
Yahoo
27-04-2025
- Yahoo
How to plan a multi-generational vacation to Maremma in Tuscany
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Southern Tuscany offers a quieter, more authentic escape to big-hitters such as Lucca and Siena, with a landscape defined by rolling vineyards, medieval hilltop towns and an unspoilt coastline. The Maremma region is an ideal base for multi-generational stays, and yet it's still easily accessible from Florence to the north and Rome to the south in about two hours by car. Whether you seek luxury, adventure or relaxation, this pocket of Southern Tuscany delivers an unforgettable experience for all generations. The highlight of any trip, these naturally occurring hot springs were regarded as a gift from the gods by the Romans and Etruscans. They can be enjoyed for free at the Cascate del Mulino. Arrive at dawn to see the sun rise while bathing in the mineral-rich, 37.5C sulphurous springs; bring shoes as the pools' mineral deposits can be sharp on the feet. Families with teens might want to trade up for the luxury experience at the Terme di Saturnia Resort, which has sunloungers by the water and spa treatments. Plan for a day at this free beach, one of two strips of sand connecting the Argentario peninsula to the mainland. It's part of the eastern lagoon within the protected area that bears the same name: the Duna Feniglia Nature Reserve. A forest of centuries-old maritime pines runs along the beach for four miles, with restaurants and beach bars dotted along the coastline. Head to the centre of the beach for the softest sand and clearest water. Step into a real-life Indiana Jones adventure at the Etruscan tombs in the city of Tarquinia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, in the Necropoli dei Monterozzi, history unfolds in a series of underground chambers with well-preserved 2,500-year-old frescoes. Vivid paintings of banquets, musicians, dancers and mythical creatures offer a rare glimpse into the ancient world. A compact site, it's easy to navigate and an immersive experience for families. Southern Tuscany's prestigious hilltop winemaking towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano are just inland from Maremma. While vineyard tours might not work for families, some villa agencies can organise private, in-villa group tasting sessions with Tuscan winemakers. The adults get to learn about the viticulture traditions of local family-run and organic farms, while kids can come and go as they please, dipping into wine-pairing snacks. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).


National Geographic
27-04-2025
- National Geographic
How to plan a multi-generational vacation to Maremma in Tuscany
Medieval hilltop towns, an unspoilt coastline and steamy hot springs make the Maremma region ideal for multi-generational holidays. This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Southern Tuscany offers a quieter, more authentic escape to big-hitters such as Lucca and Siena, with a landscape defined by rolling vineyards, medieval hilltop towns and an unspoilt coastline. The Maremma region is an ideal base for multi-generational stays, and yet it's still easily accessible from Florence to the north and Rome to the south in about two hours by car. Whether you seek luxury, adventure or relaxation, this pocket of Southern Tuscany delivers an unforgettable experience for all generations. Saturnia hot springs The highlight of any trip, these naturally occurring hot springs were regarded as a gift from the gods by the Romans and Etruscans. They can be enjoyed for free at the Cascate del Mulino. Arrive at dawn to see the sun rise while bathing in the mineral-rich, 37.5C sulphurous springs; bring shoes as the pools' mineral deposits can be sharp on the feet. Families with teens might want to trade up for the luxury experience at the Terme di Saturnia Resort, which has sunloungers by the water and spa treatments. Feniglia beach Plan for a day at this free beach, one of two strips of sand connecting the Argentario peninsula to the mainland. It's part of the eastern lagoon within the protected area that bears the same name: the Duna Feniglia Nature Reserve. A forest of centuries-old maritime pines runs along the beach for four miles, with restaurants and beach bars dotted along the coastline. Head to the centre of the beach for the softest sand and clearest water. Sartomare boasts a large infinity pool, treehouse, football field, tennis court, gym and more on a 75-acre estate along Tuscany's southern coast. Photograph by Carlo Alberto Conti Etruscan tombs Step into a real-life Indiana Jones adventure at the Etruscan tombs in the city of Tarquinia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, in the Necropoli dei Monterozzi, history unfolds in a series of underground chambers with well-preserved 2,500-year-old frescoes. Vivid paintings of banquets, musicians, dancers and mythical creatures offer a rare glimpse into the ancient world. A compact site, it's easy to navigate and an immersive experience for families. Wine-tasting for adults Southern Tuscany's prestigious hilltop winemaking towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano are just inland from Maremma. While vineyard tours might not work for families, some villa agencies can organise private, in-villa group tasting sessions with Tuscan winemakers. The adults get to learn about the viticulture traditions of local family-run and organic farms, while kids can come and go as they please, dipping into wine-pairing snacks. Set on a 75-acre estate along the southern Tuscan coast, Sartomare is a fully staffed private retreat with sweeping 360-degree views of Maremma and Argentario. There's plenty of space for multi-generational families or groups to spread out; the grounds include a large infinity pool, treehouse, football field, tennis court, gym and an outdoor pizza oven, while inside there's a kids' playroom and seven bedrooms, including five with en suite bathrooms. It's around a two-hour drive from both Rome and Florence. Prices start at £23,800 per week. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).


South China Morning Post
24-04-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
How truffles are revolutionising skincare: from the court of Catherine de' Medici to Netflix's dating show Single's Inferno, the culinary delicacy is now coveted for its anti-ageing properties
For thousands of years, gourmands have sought out truffles – considered a food of the gods – for their rich fragrance and woody flavour. Culinary use of the ingredient, which is technically the fruiting body of subterranean fungi, was documented in ancient Roman texts by Pliny the Elder, it was beloved by the Etruscans before that. Centuries later during the Renaissance, Italian noblewoman turned French queen Catherine de' Medici brought the white truffle to the French court. And in 1954, Marilyn Monroe reportedly requested truffles for her and Joe DiMaggio's wedding meal. White truffles are lauded for their hydrating, brightening, firming and soothing properties. Photo: Shutterstock Advertisement While we may now be accustomed to splurging on indulgent truffle-capped pasta dishes and snacking on addictive French fries sprinkled with truffle salt, the prized fungi is also moving from menus to our vanity tables. Eagle-eyed viewers of the Netflix dating show Single's Inferno may have glimpsed a spray bottle on the contestants' vanities; even more beauty fans have seen it used in one of the many K-beauty tutorials touting the product, d'Alba's First Spray Serum, as a must-have. Seen in K-beauty tutorials – d'Alba's First Spray Serum. Photo: Handout The viral formula, developed to be misted on clean skin, as well as during and over make-up for a hydrated, luminous complexion, is infused with white truffle sourced from truffle mecca Alba, in Piedmont, Italy. It's a serum, setting spray and refreshing mist all in one, with TikTok users and make-up artists alike applauding the dewy, radiant finish it gives. In fact, d'Alba's entire offering – from its hit spray serum and treatment face masks, to another fan favourite, the Double Serum & Cream – revolves around the prized ingredient. The brand cites white truffle as containing large amounts of vitamins C and B12 (beloved for their effectiveness at preventing hyperpigmentation, or fading it if it has already occurred), as well as key minerals and amino acids for anti-ageing benefits like improved skin elasticity. Elsewhere, the fungus is lauded for its hydrating, brightening, firming and soothing properties. Black truffles, on the other hand, more subtly flavoured than their white counterparts, are used in skin and haircare products for their moisturising benefits, as well as anti-inflammatory properties that can improve the likes of acne, eczema and rosacea. They may not look special, but black truffles have excellent moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties.
Yahoo
18-04-2025
- Yahoo
Travellers have been bathing at this spa town for 3,000 years. What's it like in 2025?
I'm draped over a couple of foam floats, drifting through the steamy outdoor pool of the Terme di Saturnia resort in southern Tuscany. In these same sulphuric thermal waters, Roman soldiers once bathed to recover from the ravages of war. 2,000 years later, the water's therapeutic benefits are still lauded, though instead of boasting their ability to heal battle-inflicted wounds, the pamphlets talk about myorelaxants and hepatic cell activity. It's arresting to think that the Etruscans recognised these waters as sacred in the 8th century BC, while Pope Clement III noted their importance in a papal bill of 1188. Now, the resort, the stunning naturally-formed hot springs just down the road and the cypress-studded hills around have become one of Italy's most iconic natural wellness destinations. Over a long weekend, you can soak up a multitude of minerals in myriad pools, hike to a village of divine origins and refuel with belt-busting Tuscan cuisine. Walking down the path towards the Cascate del Mulino, the natural thermal water pools are still obscured by trees, but a thick mist rises into the cold air as if someone has lit a fire. Rounding a corner, the cascading milky blue waters come into sight. Beneath a small stone building on the hillside, a series of white calciferous terraces fan downwards, the steaming water collecting in their basins and gushing over to those below. The waterfall seems otherworldly - literally so if local legend is to be believed. The name of the area, Saturnia, derives from Saturn who, it is said, wrought this geologically magical landscape. Frustrated by the constant warfare of men, the god of peace and abundance hurled down a bolt of lightning that struck the earth, bringing forth an eruption of scalding water with the power to calm those who bathed in it. Saturn's hot spring miracle is free to take a dip in, and an adjacent cafe and restaurant also rent out bath robes and changing rooms. Arrive as early as you can to avoid the crowds and see the sunrise staining the opaque, vapourous waters orange and pink. The same remedial waters fill the pools of the five-star Terme di Saturnia resort, a 15-minute walk from the Cascate del Mulino. Built in 1919, the hotel revived the tradition of bathing in these thermal waters for therapeutic benefits. The resort has since expanded to offer a host of treatment programmes and adjacent health facilities, from cryotherapy to pilates reformer classes. The 37.5°c water is the protagonist of the hotel's wellness offerings. Rich in bioplankton - a dark green gelatinous algae - amino acids, magnesium and potassium, it fills a vast outdoor pool (which naturally replenishes itself around six times a day) plus waterfall showers, whirlpools and jacuzzis spread around the complex. Bathing in the water is said to improve mobility, counteract inflammation, stimulate the metabolism and aid digestion. You can also drink a glass of the curative mixture at breakfast - just hold your nose if you are going to give it a try. You can bolster the health benefits of your bathing with sessions in the saunas, argillarium, hay room and hot and cold pools of the Kneipp Path. All these facilities are included in the room rate, while you can add on olive oil and basil leaf spa treatments, cryotherapy, naturopathy and medical checkups for an additional fee. Self and health improvement is hungry work, so you can start the day with a breakfast of local cold meats and cheese, eggs cooked how you want, and a banquet of fresh fruit and vegetables to be squeezed on-demand in a juicer. The half board option also gives you dinner in a choice of three locations. La Stellata is a smart country trattoria a short car ride away. In rooms of stone walls and terracotta floors, you can indulge in refined classics like Chianina beef tartar with egg yolk, creamy tagliolini pasta with white truffle shavings, and the iconic minimum one kilo Fiorentina steak cooked on an open charcoal grill. The elegant 1919 restaurant is located in the resort's main building with a conservatory overlooking the steamy outdoor pool. Their creatively presented dishes are contemporary reworkings of classics like chicken liver patè with caramelised onions and blueberry bread wafers, potato dumplings stuffed with wild boar in a buttery sage sauce, and risotto with Etruscan cheese and brown stock. In the Library, you can sink into fireside armchairs and enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail or have lunchtime bar snacks like a burger with local beef and pecorino cheese at tables beside big windows overlooking the pool. Also linked to the myth of Saturn is a hilltop village 30 minutes' walk from the resort. With prehistoric origins, it was first called Aurinia, the name of the Etruscan water deity that the Romans renamed Saturnia, just like the town is now called. A stony track past vineyards and through woods leads to the Porta Romana archway, beneath which runs part of the ancient Via Clodia grooved by centuries of cart wheels. Related This pretty seaside town in Sicily is offering €1 holidays - what's the catch? Biking in Italy: Exploring green routes and cultural treasures across the country The village was where Roman soldiers would once have paused on their way back from battle to Rome to take the restorative waters. Now, you can enjoy local white wine at bars on the tree-shaded square and purchase traditional products like pici pasta or crunchy cantucci biscuits from the deli. Saturnia also has its own special brand of wellness therapy in the form of very friendly local cats who will snuggle on your lap if given the opportunity.