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How to survive in the F&B business – top strategies from veteran chefs and restaurateurs
How to survive in the F&B business – top strategies from veteran chefs and restaurateurs

Business Times

time3 days ago

  • Business
  • Business Times

How to survive in the F&B business – top strategies from veteran chefs and restaurateurs

[SINGAPORE] Plan for the good, bad and ugly. Be ready for ugly, because it will happen and you will have to survive it. These are the words that Paul Longworth lives by. The chef-owner of Encore by Rhubarb, who recently revamped his former one-Michelin-starred restaurant Rhubarb as a casual concept, credits this advice to his old friend Magdalene Tang of Mag's Wine Kitchen fame. Paul Longworth, chef-owner of Encore by Rhubarb. PHOTO: ENCORE BY RHUBARB The result is that his restaurant is still in business 11 years after opening Rhubarb in Duxton Hill in 2014, and where it still stands today. Going by the current spate of restaurant closures – which reached a 20-year high of over 3,000 casualties in 2024, Longworth is one of the 'lucky' ones. In the past year alone, 10 one-Michelin-starred restaurants have closed, and Rhubarb could have been on the list had it not pivoted its business. The move may have cost it its star, but it gained a lifeline in the process. Encore by Rhubarb is one of a group of restaurants that have navigated Singapore's challenging food and beverage (F&B) waters for 10 years and more. It's a network that includes three-Michelin-starred Les Amis and Odette, two-starred Saint Pierre and one-stars Burnt Ends, Candlenut, Labyrinth and Buona Terra. Stalwarts such as Garibaldi, LeVeL33 and Buko Nero, too, are still very much in the game. Some are thriving, others are holding steady by diversifying or trimming costs, but all have developed their own strategies for survival. Han Li Guang of Labyrinth. PHOTO:LABYRINTH The challenges they all face are the same. 'The economy is not doing well, it's not just F&B. From tech to retail, everyone has been feeling it due to the tariffs, wars and volatile stock market,' says Han Li Guang, chef-owner of Labyrinth, which celebrated its 11th anniversary this year. On top of that, the industry is also battling high rents, manpower shortages and rapidly shifting consumer tastes. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Diversify and find alternative revenue streams For veteran chef-retaurateur Roberto Galetti – who opened Garibaldi Italian Restaurant & Bar in 2003 and held a Michelin star from 2017 to 2022 – survival has meant branching out. '(Right now) as Garibaldi, we are bleeding,' he says. 'But we can survive because our casual dining concept is generating profit to help us through this time. We are lucky; other fine dining restaurants may not have this.' Galetti is referring to Burrata Joy & Gustavo Lapasta, a 30-seat outfit in Katong, with an average check of S$35 to S$40 and lower fixed costs. His strategy is to turn tables quickly, doing about 100 covers on a good weekend, which helps subsidise the flagship restaurant. Roberto Galetti of Garibaldi. PHOTO: GARIBALDI Others have also leaned into alternative revenue streams to get through the hard times. For Saint Pierre's Emmanuel Stroobant, it was Covid-19 that presented the greatest challenge. 'We launched elevated home dining experiences and leveraged our private dining offering. We kept the kitchen alive, preserved team morale, and maintained guest relationships – even when the doors were closed,' he says. Emmanuel Stroobant of Saint Pierre. PHOTO: SAINT PIERRE While the restaurant has been consistently profitable since opening in 2000, Stroobant acknowledges that things are not exactly a bed of roses right now. 'In our best years, we operated with a healthy double-digit margin, which is increasingly rare today. Those were times when costs were more manageable and customer dining patterns were more predictable.' Keep an eye on the numbers Even owners of smaller outfits are affected by changing dining patterns, such as Oscar and Tracy Pasinato of the popular and intimate Italian restaurant Buko Nero. 'We're still profitable but we noticed a dip now compared to last year,' says Tracy, who runs the floor of the restaurant while her husband, Oscar, helms the kitchen. 'Sometimes on a Tuesday or Wednesday it could be buzzing, then Friday and Saturday are not so busy. The challenging part is trying to figure out what's going on.' Oscar and Tracy Pasinato of Buko Nero. PHOTO: CHUA YANG She recalls that when Buko Nero first opened in 2000, they were conservative with their investments in the restaurant, and this has worked well for them. Oscar says: 'We've seen people who open restaurants and by the time they open, they already have zero (dollars) in their business bank account. That's a path to failure. You have to manage your budget carefully, especially now that the cost of living has increased tremendously such that a simple renovation can go up to S$100,000.' A financial buffer of about six months is ideal, Tracy suggests. 'This is to pay basics like rent and employee salary. Things like marketing are added costs, but you need to make sure you can cover your running costs for suppliers and staff.' Labyrinth's dining room. PHOTO: LABYRINTH A former banker, Labyrinth's Han also strongly believes in protecting the bottom line. 'It's a numbers game, and anyone who wants to run a restaurant has to understand this. When I first opened Labyrinth, I thought it was about cooking the best food, being creative, expressing myself as an artist. I ran it as a playground… and things were not going well in the first three or four years. But now I have built a strong team to support my vision and operations, and it frees me up to run it as a business.' This numbers-focused approach is echoed by Dr Martin Bem, owner of rooftop microbrewery-restaurant LeVeL33, which opened in 2000. 'Small things make an impact,' says Dr Bem, who holds a PhD in Economics. He illustrates: 'For example, let's say we have 400 guests. We used to have our hostess meet guests at the lift, which meant a 20-second walk to the table each way. Multiply that by 400 guests, and that's how much slower you are to serve the next guest during peak hours. Moving the greeting point saved 40 seconds per table. My staff walk less, and guests are better served.' Don't panic, pivot Longworth and his team sat down to discuss their future early last year, 'and even then it was pretty obvious that things were going to get harder and harder', he explains. 'So the plan was either to close, which wasn't an option, stay the same and hope for the best, or, as we decided, evolve into something people wanted.' That meant bringing prices down and appealing to a wider customer base. He now charges S$48 and S$88 for a set lunch and dinner, respectively, and while 'our prices are very accessible, it also brings us more exposure and covers'. Leg of lamb at Encore by Rhubarb. PHOTO: ENCORE BY RHUBARB Odette's Julien Royer's fastest pivot was during Covid-19, 'the most challenging time for us', he says. 'We had to react quickly. In less than 72 hours after the forced closure of the restaurant, we launched Odette at Home, which was – thank God – a success and allowed us to keep everyone on board. There are nearly 50 of us and it was one of our proudest moments to stay alive during that tricky period'. Julien Royer of Odette. PHOTO: ODETTE Odette, which turns 10 in November, has been profitable all these years thanks to 'the care and caution of everyone'. Some 70 per cent of the restaurant's clients are local, with the rest made up of visitors from the US, Australia, Japan, Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines. Sebastien Lepinoy of Les Amis. PHOTO: LES AMIS For Sebastien Lepinoy, director of culinary and operations at Les Amis, one of the first things he did when he took over the kitchen in 2013 was to introduce a S$45 set lunch just to bring in more customers. The game plan then was to reinforce the restaurant's French identity and build a strong foundation, after which awards would naturally follow. 'Les Amis is currently profitable and the key to it is simple – I adapt to the environment,' he says. 'A crisis rarely arrives overnight; by the end of 2023 there were already signs that business was slowing. This gave us time to adjust, particularly in terms of manpower and ensuring our menus are well-priced.' Being adaptable, and always having a 'Plan B' has put Les Amis on the road to profitability this year 'as things are already better now than the last few months and I believe (the momentum) will continue until Chinese New Year'. Think like a businessman, not just a chef Peranakan restaurant Candlenut just celebrated its 15th anniversary but it wasn't an easy ride for chef-owner Malcolm Lee, who said that his youth and inexperience nearly caused his business to go belly up within its first two years. It was a painful reality check for the young chef who was focused purely on his cooking craft and vision, rather than the business. Peranakan cuisine at Candlenut. PHOTO: CANDLENUT 'I very quickly learnt that passion alone isn't enough,' recalls Lee. 'You need to understand numbers, manage costs, lead people and make tough decisions – sometimes at the expense of creativity. That was a hard but necessary lesson.' Another lesson has been 'not to let pride or ego get in the way of making hard decisions,' Lee adds. 'Whether it's adjusting expectations, reworking a dish or shifting the way we run the business – staying humble and open has helped us move forward, even when it wasn't easy.' Strong business partners Candlenut began to blossom when it moved to Como Dempsey in 2016, the same year it earned its Michelin star. It flourished until 2019 when Covid-19 struck, which was its 'toughest period', says Lee. 'It forced us to think out of the box, and reset our direction, but that period helped to prepare us for the post-Covid challenges ahead.' Malcolm Lee of Candlenut. PHOTO: CANDLENUT Being part of the Como stable 'provided Candlenut with a strong foundation to grow' but the resilience built up from its early struggles combined to help 'build a successful and sustainable business together'. Lee describes Candlenut now as being in a 'steady place – but not without challenges (such as) rising costs in ingredients, manpower and utilities'. His outlook is 'cautious but not bleak', he says. 'My sense is that it stays choppy for a while and then improves gradually, step by step.' Apart from supportive shareholders, Longworth credits his landlord. 'He has helped me weather the tough times and without him, I don't think we would have survived this long. He is one of the reasons I wanted to rebrand, so that we can continue to grow for another 10 years.' Royer adds that having The Lo & Behold Group as a partner is crucial in managing the two crucial expenses of a restaurant – rental and manpower. 'As a group, it has very strong and clear processes to manage these (elements).' Even so, 'having an owner with strong financial backing doesn't mean you can do whatever you want,' adds Lepinoy. 'My strategy is simple – business first. To be a chef is also to be a restaurateur. I carry the responsibility for a team of 70 people, and before thinking about awards or my comfort, I must ensure that everyone is taken care of and receives their salary.' Invest in a good team Success doesn't lie in the hands of one talented chef, but the one with the strongest team behind him or her, say the chefs interviewed. Lepinoy credits a team that has been with him since 2013, while Royer consistently insists on building a strong family environment that gives team members 'room to grow within the company and space to express themselves'. 'The heaviest expense has always been our people,' notes Lee, who also helms the one-starred Pangium. 'As we operate on a four day work week or alternate four and five-day system, we need a larger team, which means higher manpower costs. But we believe it's worth it, because better work-life harmony means lower staff turnover, higher morale and a stronger sense of team (spirit). Which translates into steady business.' Build a strong reputation While numbers are crucial, for some, long-term survival hinges on more than just the bottom line. It's about building a reputation for quality and valuing the people who support the business. LeVeL33 seafood platter. PHOTO: LEVEL33 Take LeVeL33, where Dr Bem has seen a consistent growth trend in his business over the years, and attributes it to being able to recognise and cater to the right mix of customers. 'You always hear location, location, location, but you also need the right concept. We are popular with the business crowd for lunch and after-office drinks, tourists come mid-shift for drinks, and in the evenings, it's corporate private dining and degustation menus. We created a multi-zone concept so the same customer can come here for different purposes,' he explains. Meanwhile, Buko Nero mostly relies on a strong base of loyal regulars, and this makes up about 50 per cent of their customer base. 'We used to have a lot of expat regulars, and after Covid a lot of them moved back home. But we're so happy when they come back to visit Singapore because they always come to the restaurant. It's heartwarming to see where they are in their lives, and how big their children have grown,' says Tracy. Les Amis' dining room. PHOTO: LES AMIS Recognition is also important for business, says Lepinoy. 'All awards are crucial. For example, the Black Pearl gives us strong recognition in the Chinese market, where it holds significant influence. The Michelin Guide brings in international customers, while the World's 50 Best connects us with a younger audience that is very active on social media and helps to share our story globally. The Wine Spectator attracts wine lovers and experts who come to experience our wine programme, and we are one of the few independent restaurants in Asia, outside of hotels, to hold a five-star rating in the Forbes Travel Guide.' Buona Terra's director of operations Gabriele Rizzardi remembers how the first year was the toughest when the Italian restaurant opened in 2012. 'We were still finding our identity and business wasn't great. But with time and experience we built a solid operation supported by regular customers. We've learned to adapt, and make decisions based on business needs rather than pride.' Saint Pierre's two Michelin starred cuisine. PHOTO: SAINT PIERRE Ultimately, longevity comes down to discipline, says Stroobant. 'We've always treated Saint Pierre as a business, not an indulgence. Every decision is made with the customer – and the bottom line – in mind. We never chased trends or grew for the sake of growing. That discipline, and a clear sense of purpose, is what has allowed us to not only survive – but to remain relevant for 25 years.'

Staying in F&B for the long-term
Staying in F&B for the long-term

Business Times

time4 days ago

  • Business
  • Business Times

Staying in F&B for the long-term

AT the rate that food and beverage outlets are closing, one might think running a restaurant is a short-term business. But amid all the noise over record closures for the year, there exists a group of restaurants which have quietly stayed the course over the years. And despite all the challenges that plague the industry – notably rental leases and manpower – their businesses have been steadily chugging along, and will continue to do so in the years to come. How do they do it? In this week's BT Lifestyle, we meet chef-owners whose restaurants have been around for at least 10 years, if not more, and get the low-down on their strategies for playing the long game. Hear the stories by familiar names such as Garibaldi, Buko Nero, Saint Pierre, Les Amis, Odette, LeVeL33, Labyrinth and Rhubarb – and learn about resilience, business acumen and the wherewithal to pivot when needed. At the same time, we also hear from Dave Pynt, chef-owner of the still wildly popular Burnt Ends, who shares how his business grew from one barbecue-influenced restaurant into a thriving business that includes restaurants overseas and collaborations with luxury brands at home. Meanwhile in Design, we meet industrial designer Nathan Yong, who talks about his newly launched Nathan Home, a furniture and lifestyle brand that sits in a sprawling colonial home in the tranquil Seletar Aerospace Park. And in Dining, we head to Holland Village to check out the new Chip Bee Bistro, a retro-ish eatery that feels a lot like PS Cafe version 2.0. For all this and more, don't miss this week's BT Lifestyle.

The best rooftop restaurants in L.A.
The best rooftop restaurants in L.A.

Time Out

time09-08-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

The best rooftop restaurants in L.A.

What is it? The ritzy 90210 hotel rooftop outpost of an award-winning New York City cocktail bar with amazing drinks and sweeping views of the hills. Why we love it: The Maybourne's ninth-floor vantage point is gorgeous no matter what time of day you arrive, but Dante Beverly Hills isn't just any old rooftop bar—it serves some of the best all-around drinks in town. There are 10 different iterations of the martini (all equally great), plus Dante's signature 'fluffy' orange juice Garibaldi and a few agave-based creations unique to Los Angeles. Given the area code, drink prices are higher than average; most run in the $19 to $30 range, but the overall quality and consistency makes them well worth the price. Food-wise, however, is a slightly different story—the seasonally inspired all-day Italian fare is straightfoward but not particularly memorable. Nevertheless, the luxurious ambience makes for a wonderful backdrop whenever. One more unique aspect of Dante for the caffeine-sensitive: It's one of the few places in town where you can find a decaf espresso martini.

How to navigate some of Asia's best bars, in Hong Kong
How to navigate some of Asia's best bars, in Hong Kong

The Hindu

time17-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Hindu

How to navigate some of Asia's best bars, in Hong Kong

Leave your stilettos at home. Sure, Hong Kong cocktails bars can be dressy, but martini nights in this glittering high-voltage city seem to involve either sprinting up brutally steep stairs or standing in long, patient queues waiting for admission. It takes me a couple of days to get used to bar hopping in the mid-levels. There is a clever escalator that takes you up the hill, with a convenient pause at Tai Kwun, where you can sip a relaxed Aperol spritz. But I lose my way frequently, usually distracted by pastry (make sure you pause at Bakehouse for a sourdough egg tart, or three) and boutiques. Inevitably, every wrong turn leads me to yet another steep ladder street. Nevertheless, I am determined to hit some of the spaces that made Asia 30 Best Bars list, announced recently in Macau to try some of the continent's best cocktails. Bar Leone Naturally, I start with Asia's best bar, which turns out to be disarmingly friendly. Ranked second on the World's 50 Best Bars list, after Handshake Speakeasy in Mexico, Bar Leone has been listed as Asia's best bar once again this year. With warm buttery lighting, puddled with pools of flickering candles, the space is cluttered, but by design: I spot a green toy train and retro posters under a disco ball straight from the Seventies. The space hums with conversation, punctuated by the clink of glasses and cutlery. Founder Lorenzo Antinori defines the bar as cocktail popolari, which in Italian means 'cocktail for the people'. Discussing what sets it apart, he says, 'We're not trying to reinvent the wheel at Bar Leone, we're just making sure it rolls well. I think what makes us different than other bars is that we focus on the overall bar experience: quality cocktails and food, a curated playlist, the right lighting, and warm service.' That is evident as I settle into my seat, guided by a chatty waitress. She recommends the olives, which are big, smoked, and juicy. I pair them with an easy Garibaldi, bright with campari and orange. Then dig into warm slabs of focaccia, hefty with mortadella, creamy whipped ricotta and pickled chillies. Lorenzo says his personal favourites on the menu are probably the Filthy Martini and the Olive Oil Sour. Then adds, 'But honestly, the best part of Bar Leone isn't what's in the glass, it's who's around it. The vibe, the people, the community we've built… that's the real magic.' Coa Jay Khan has been called Asia's hottest bartender, and for a good reason. Born and raised in Hong Kong, he started bartending at 18 at a karaoke club, worked in Melbourne and then discovered the charms of Mezcal in Mexico. He ended up launching Coa in 2017, to celebrate all things agave. Coa shot up Asia's 50 Best Bars list, and is currently at No 17, while Jay won the Roku Industry Icon Award this year for being 'The agave evangelist shaping Hong Kong's cocktail culture.' I meet Jay when I am standing in a long and friendly line to get into Coa. As he walks me in, I'm captivated by the bar's seductive, shabby-chic vibe. It's like stumbling upon a particularly juicy secret: pulsing with music, mirrors and frequent peals of laughter. Scrawled across a wall, I read, 'You don't find mezcal, mezcal finds you.' A pepper smash finds me. An assertive agave-based cocktail, blending jalapeno-infused tequila, Cointreau, fresh shiso and capsicum juice, it's herbaceous with an addictively spicy kick. The food is from Chicano, a neighbouring Mexican restaurant. I try their popular Al pastor tacos, generously filled with pork and pineapple, as well as the quesadillas rich with Oaxacan cheese and cool dollops of guacamole. 'When I opened this space, I was quite naive. I was driven by passion,' says Jay, adding that it took a year-and-a-half for people to really discover them. In 2021, however, they won Asia's best bar, and then went on to top the list for the next two years. His secret? Jay's been building a culture, not just creating memorable cocktails. 'We always have something in the loop, we constantly have new things coming up...' He says, adding 'We are trying to activate the community.' Savoury Project Opening this bar took guts. Focussing on spicy, savoury notes instead of the more traditionally accepted sweet fruity flavours, Jay Khan and Ajit Gurung launched The Savoury Project in May 2023, and were quickly rewarded by zooming up the list of Hong Kong's favourite bars, Currently listed as 32 on Asia's 50 best Bars list, the Savoury Project, set in trendy Soho district, jostling with beautiful people, is dominated by a custom-made hexagonal bar that encourages customers to chat with the bartender. Realising that more guests were choosing savoury cocktails, the partners decided to create a menu pivoting on umami. While the menu is short, with just eight signature cocktails (as each one requires hours of prep), there is plenty of variety, from a salty Michelada made with clamato, habanero, pickle and lager, to the deliciously intense Pepper + Corn, heady with mezcal and cumin. 'We char the husk, and that aroma reminds you of Mexican barbeque,' says Ajit. There's also a Temperance section, which includes a nutty Teriyaki freeball, with Japanese white soy sauce, and Seed of Life that includes papaya seeds and ginger kombucha. Ajit says is getting increasingly popular as more people give up alcohol. I am not one of them. He slides across a Chilled Biryani, a cocktail made with ghee, biryani masala, tequila, plum, pineapple and peppers as we chat. It is both familiar, and intriguing. Says Ajit, 'People believe savoury cocktails are like a glass of soup, but they're actually light.' He explains why being 'commercially successful' was not enough for the ambitious partners. 'It's like selling your soul to the devil,' he says, adding that they decided it was time to try something new. 'Not because we wanted to be cool or stand out. We looked at what defines us as founders. You don't want to be too ahead of the curve, but you don't want to be too late either.' I sip on my biryani reflectively. Fortunately, like Goldilocks, their timing and flavours are just right.

Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Dante: Take two icons and serve over ice…
Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Dante: Take two icons and serve over ice…

Yahoo

time11-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Dante: Take two icons and serve over ice…

I like my orange juice fluffy. Once you have it fluffy, you won't want to return to everyday juice. New York bartender Naren Young is credited with popularising the method by which citrus is aerated in a high-speed blender. It makes for a frothier and more aromatic drink, amping up the flavour and doing wonders texturally. Young first fluffed his juice a decade ago, using it in an Italian classic, the Garibaldi. Like much of Italy's most famous food and drink, it is a celebration of togetherness, symbolising the union of Campari (from the north) and orange juice (from the south). That's all it is: Campari and orange juice served over ice. Tomos Parry's Mountain serves a good one. And yes, like the biscuit, which your nan probably puts out on floral plates come 3pm, it's named after unification big dog Giuseppe Garibaldi. Right. Young is the former creative director at New York bar Dante and his newly famous Garibaldi went on the menu in 2015. A bar of repute dating back to 1915, Dante was long a meeting post for Italian immigrants before the writers, musicians and actors of Greenwich Village — Al Pacino and Bob Dylan among them — started going. Dante topped the World's 50 Best Bars list in 2019. And now it's in London for the summer at Claridge's, which predates Italy by about 50 years. I love New York as much as I love London. The two cities, with their powerful Italian culture, are a perfect match and the bar slots seamlessly into what many believe to be the most debaucherous of our grand hotels. From now into August, there will be Garibaldis, negronis, martinis. And to eat, NYC go-tos like Caesar salad, roasted branzino, a juicy burger with pickled 'beets' and spicy mayo. But if you go for anything, go for the Garibaldi. It must be the drink of the summer: chic, understated, and... fluffy. Garibaldi, £15; 4-6 Ganton Street, W1, @ Soho boozer the Shaston Arms has been taken on by Patty & Bun founder Joe Grossman, who is to relaunch it as a gastropub after a refurb. The food menu is to be created by Sam Andrews, the former head chef at the Waterman's Arms and Ducksoup. The Shaston closed in June after 25 years of trading after the former tenants couldn't agree on a new lease with landlords Shaftesbury Capital, which presumably wanted to pursue a food concept. Still, losing another great boozer might sting. 50-52 Salusbury Road, NW6, @thesalusbury Another pub, another would-be Devonshire, at least that's what the reports suggest. Next on the scene is The Salusbury, which is pitching to become the (you know) of Queen's Park, an area I've visited quite a lot in recent times and so feel comfortable calling the Clapham of the north. Anyway, the pub comes from Gareth Cooper, who runs Broadwick Live, and music promoter Alex Payne. Both mentioned 'familiar faces appearing unannounced' as far as music is concerned. Food will come from chef Tarryn Bingle.

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