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Does social media have a problem with women? Dior's latest departure makes you wonder
Does social media have a problem with women? Dior's latest departure makes you wonder

Telegraph

time5 days ago

  • Business
  • Telegraph

Does social media have a problem with women? Dior's latest departure makes you wonder

Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Italian designer who creatively steered Dior to unprecedented success, is to leave, it was officially announced this morning. A short statement from Dior brings to a close months of intense speculation about her position there. The 61-year-old was the first female creative director at the house – an eye-opening state of affairs that speaks volumes about the male-dominated membrane that still encases the upper levels of the top international fashion brands. Chiuri was well aware of this and made it her mission to collaborate with as many other female artists, designers, and creatives as possible during her tenure there. For a Dior show in Marrakech in 2019, she even invited Grace Wales Bonner, the talented British designer, to interpret a Dior Bar Jacket. But it was Chiuri's own work on the Bar Jacket that first made fashion writers take note. A central piece in the famous 1947 image featuring a Dior outfit that became known as the 'New Look', the Bar Jacket represents the essence of Christian Dior's feminine aesthetic. In its 78-year history, designers have repeatedly returned to it, reinventing it in their own ways. The original featured internal corsetry and horsehair padding on the hips. Comfort and movement were not considerations. While its elegance and femininity were a gift to subsequent Dior designers such as John Galliano, who cinched the waist ever more tightly for dramatic effect, and Raf Simons, who turned it into more of a tuxedo, it was Chiuri who understood why very few women actually wore it in real life. By stripping it right back inside and rebuilding it with magical, light-touch tailoring that made it look every bit as snatched as the original – but a breeze to wear – Chiuri placed it on the wanted list of millions of women. Wearing it herself with Dior jeans, Chiuri made it part of a fashion vernacular. It's less easy to mimic than Chanel's cropped tweed jacket because it relies on precision and deft tailoring (expensive and not reproducible in the average factory) rather than an easily recognisable fabrication, so the high street chains borrowed other ideas from her – lace dresses in every weight, kitten-heel slingbacks, and several million riffs on the Book Tote – that canvas tote she came up with in 2018. Chiuri's Midas touch with bags at one point seemed unstoppable, with hit after hit. Under her watch, Dior became the most commercially successful brand in LVMH's extensive fashion stable. The market has slowed recently – but this is true for nearly all luxury fashion brands. For some reason, all of this seems lost on a new breed of social media commentators who constantly mocked the wearability of her clothes, her strong Italian accent and endlessly wished for the announcement of her departure sooner rather than later. Anyone would think they despise older women. These sometimes strident voices might not matter in a world where pluralistic views on all subjects are meant to thrive relatively harmoniously. But the fact that the Chiuri/Dior narrative has played out more or less as they wanted makes you appreciate how difficult it has become to steer any brand through an environment where the loudest voices are often un-nuanced and female unfriendly. All of this must have made her last year there scratchy, to say the least (although there are rumours of a spectacular golden goodbye pay-out) – but in all her encounters with the press – and she was notable for being open and approachable – she remained inscrutably serene. 'I […] am delighted to have been given this extraordinary opportunity,' she said, following the announcement. 'I would like to thank Monsieur Arnault for placing his trust in me and Delphine for her support. I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the Ateliers [...] Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.' Delphine Arnault, chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture and daughter of Bernard Arnaut, CEO of LVMH, seems to appreciate her contribution however. 'I extend my warmest thanks to Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, since her arrival at Dior, has accomplished tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which allowed her to design highly desirable collections. She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women's collections.'

Wales Bonner's New Adidas Sneakers Might Outsell Her Silver Sambas
Wales Bonner's New Adidas Sneakers Might Outsell Her Silver Sambas

Vogue

time6 days ago

  • Business
  • Vogue

Wales Bonner's New Adidas Sneakers Might Outsell Her Silver Sambas

The discourse around trainers has escalated in recent years—and London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner has played a significant role in this shift. Through an ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals, the designer has reworked several archive styles that have gone on to reach 'cult status.' Among them: leopard pony hair and silver Sambas, both of which now fetch inflated mark-ups on resale sites. At the time of writing, they're listed at upwards of $500 respectively on StockX (certain sizes are four figures), and have been endlessly duped by mass-market retailers. The spring/summer 2025 collection, launching on May 28, is the first time Wales Bonner has debuted a completely original trainer design, the Karintha. Named after a character in Cane by Jean Toomer, it borrows details from classic Adidas silhouettes and those developed in Wales Bonner's mainline collections. Realised in a similar profile to the Jewel, a curvaceous Mary-Jane trainer worn by Zendaya on the cover of British Vogue's May 2024 issue, the Karintha features the Three Stripe insignia and is available in sand-hued suede or covered in scaled sequins, with chocolate brown suede and satin accents. 'Immersing myself in the Adidas archive over the last five years has led me to focus on certain craft elements,' Grace Wales Bonner tells Vogue. 'So with this design, I wanted it to be rooted in that sensibility, while creating something contemporary and fresh.' A croc-embossed Superstar was a standout shoe from last season's drop, and the latest release introduces the Superstar Hi (a high-topped version), with the same recognizable shell toe cap, a thinner outsole and a suede upper with a perforated Three Stripe motif. This summer-ready collection also brings a new leather Adilette–a slider that's become synonymous with off-duty style—with a crocheted strap handwoven in Brazil. The ready-to-wear offering sees new interpretations of signature WB tracksuits, featuring popper and lace-up detailing and cargo pockets, as well as a crochet top, relaxed separates and suede bowling bags inspired by the intersection between city and coast. Grace explored nautical silhouettes this season through a contemporary lens, as she tells Vogue she focused on 'how to refine and render them in a more expressive, city context.' The tracksuits and sequins will be a certain crowd-pleaser. Wales Bonner X Adidas SS25 launches on the 28 May at and selected retailers—shop a curated edit, below. Adidas x Wales Bonner Karintha Lo shoes $350 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner Karintha Lo shoes $250 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner knit polo shirt $220 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner satin skirt $250 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner satin track top $280 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner polo shirt $180 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner Adilette slides $350 ADIDAS Adidas x Wales Bonner 3-stripes socks $80 ADIDAS

Sequins Sneakers For Men? YES, Say Wales Bonner and Adidas
Sequins Sneakers For Men? YES, Say Wales Bonner and Adidas

Yahoo

time27-05-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Sequins Sneakers For Men? YES, Say Wales Bonner and Adidas

Sequins, to me, bring to mind Preston prosecco mums at their work Christmas dos. The clad-in-Wallis types that do a lot of pointing and clapping when 'Rock DJ' plays in Yates. So, when bellwether Grace Wales Bonner announced she'd be using the shiny ornaments to refresh the sneaker side of her Adidas collaboration for its fifth year, I was both apprehensive and intrigued. A year on from the shoe's reveal at the British designer's Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2025 runway shoe, I've decided she successfully forecasted the sartorial spirit once again. A pair of glimmering low-tops are exactly what's needed to complement my everyday summer '25 ensemble of flared jeans, a suede jacket and a pair of aviators. And perhaps, on my birthday, a Dries Van Noten sequin shirt (the Belgian label is always perennially ahead of the curve.) The brand-new silhouette – which will also release in a brown suede – isn't a Samba, an SL 72 or an SL 76 (shoes seen in previous drops), but a brand-new model called the Karintha. As far as one can tell, it's named after a short vignette in Jean Toomer's Cane novel centred on a young, beautiful Black woman who grew up too fast. The form is rooted in Adidas history, concurrently calling back to the Seventies and the Noughties to charm to contemporary consumers. Its key elements are an elongated and embroidered tongue, an undulating midsole and a diamond pattern traction undersole. The sequin pairs – the ones we're telling you, you want – are set to be limited, so make sure to gatekeep them from the northern mums. Robbie is touring this summer, remember. Stay tuned for more details on the Wales Bonner x Adidas Karintha release. You Might Also Like The Best Men's Sunglasses For Summer '19 There's A Smartwatch For Every Sort Of Guy What You Should Buy For Your Groomsmen (And What They Really Want)

The Paris Fashion Week Menswear Calendar for Spring 2026 Is Here
The Paris Fashion Week Menswear Calendar for Spring 2026 Is Here

Vogue

time23-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

The Paris Fashion Week Menswear Calendar for Spring 2026 Is Here

If the Milan Men's Fashion Week calendar looks a little slimmed down, with key labels including Gucci, Fendi, and Zegna absent, fear not: Paris is much more robust. Running from June 24 through June 29 and with 70 brands listed—40 of which will put on runway shows—the lineup for the spring 2026 edition is sure to pack a punch. The week will once again kick off with the Bachelors of Art show from the outgoing class of the Institut Français de la Mode, with Pharrell Williams and Louis Vuitton as usual closing out the first day of shows on June 24. Earlier that day, Ryota Iwai is showing his latest for rising label Auralee and Anthony Vaccarello will bring Saint Laurent back to the official calendar. (You may recall that Vaccarello showed his fall 2025 men's collection—the one with the thigh-high boots Alexander Skarsgård wore at Cannes earlier this week—on January 28 earlier this year, two days after the men's collections wrapped, on the second day of haute couture.) Also returning to the schedule this season are fan favorites Grace Wales Bonner, who took a break from the runway in January but had a fantastic night at the 2025 Met Gala (June 25); Emily Adams Bode Aujla, who was last on the runway in New Orleans for her Super Bowl partnership with GQ (June 27); and Craig Green, who is returning to Paris following the British Fashion Council's cancellation of its June edition (June 29). Marine Serre, who has moved to the ready-to-wear calendar, will stage a presentation on June 27. The Dries Van Noten men's collection will also return to the runway this season with Julian Klausner's debut in the category (June 26). Paris Fashion Week Menswear regulars will notice that this is not the typical Dries timeslot—the label has switched places with Rick Owens, who will present his collection that evening. Owens's retrospective, 'Temple of Love,' opens at the Palais Galliera on June 28. Willy Chavarria will return to Paris after a knockout debut in January, his show is scheduled for June 27. And here's what you've been waiting for: Jonathan Anderson's much-anticipated debut at Dior Men, the hottest ticket of the men's season, will take place on June 27.

Art Basel Qatar to Debut in Doha in February
Art Basel Qatar to Debut in Doha in February

Yahoo

time20-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

Art Basel Qatar to Debut in Doha in February

LONDON — Art Basel is expanding its reach and will make its debut in the Middle East with Art Basel Qatar in February. The art fair will be formed by MCH Group, the parent company of Art Basel along with Qatar Sports Investments, an investor in sports, culture, entertainment and lifestyle in the region, and the QC+ strategic and creative collective. More from WWD Art Basel 2025: Formafantasma, Grace Wales Bonner Medalists of Brand New Award Christoph von Weyhe, Lifelong Partner of Azzedine Alaïa, Dies at 88 Milan's Triennale Museum Opens 24th International Exhibition Dedicated to Inequalities Art Basel Qatar will be taking place in Doha, the country's capital city and will showcase modern and contemporary art from the artists and galleries across the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia. The fair will be divided between two incubation spaces in downtown Msheireb: M7 and the Doha Design District. Art Basel Qatar is part of the Amir Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani's mission to drive social and economic development within the region. 'As part of His Highness the Amir's National Vision 2030, Qatar has been transforming itself into a knowledge-based economy, with culture and the creative industries helping to lead the way. We have built a thriving ecosystem of culture and sports, harnessing the capacity of both to break down barriers, create shared experiences, increase understanding and drive positive change,' said Sheikha Al Mayassa Bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, chairperson of Qatar Museums. Qatar has been doubling down on its cultural initiatives. The country opened the National Museum of Qatar in 2019 and the 3-2-1 Qatar Olympic and Sports Museum in 2022. Later this year, Qatar will be opening the Lusail Museum and DADU: Children's Museum of Qatar. Noah Horowitz, chief executive officer of Art Basel, said, 'Growing the global art market, supporting artists and galleries and developing new collecting audiences is core to Art Basel's mission. The art scene across the MENA region has undergone exponential growth in recent decades, with the establishment of world-class institutions, the launch of leading cultural events and the growth of a vibrant community of artists, galleries and professionals.' Best of WWD Celebrity Style at Coachella Through the Years: Taylor Swift, Amy Winehouse and More [PHOTOS] From John Galliano to Paul Smith, Designers Who've Created Christmas Trees at Claridge's The Most Over-the-top Hats From the Royal Ascot Races Through the Years

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