Latest news with #Josper
Time Out
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Photograph: Supplied / Molli.
May 2025: It hasn't been long since Molli sprung onto the scene and yet she's already changed her stripes. There's a brand new fermentation genius at the helm in the friendly form of head chef Caitlyn Koether, who brings experience from San Francisco's famous Bar Tartine as well as Relae in Copenhagen. Expect wildly inventive flavours and drinks from legend Kayla Saito (ex- Aru) in a groovy artistic space that's welcoming all day long and into the night. On the new night menu, we love the tomato and charred bread dip with smoked mussels; the fried potato with black garlic and allium aioli; the embered onions with sweetbreads and bone marrow; and the Hazeldene chicken with charred shishitos, amaranth and koji jus. Check it out! - Lauren Dinse Read on for our original review of Molli from Sonia Nair in October 2024, noting that certain aspects of Molli's offerings have since changed. Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Tucked away in the residential backstreets of Abbotsford is Molli, a neighbourhood bar and bistro just a stone's throw away from stalwart café Three Bags Full. Funnily enough, the perennially popular brunch destination is an earlier venture of Nathan Toleman, owner of Molli and founder of hospitality conglomerate the Mulberry Group, the same establishment behind CBD restaurants Hazel and Dessous. Molli is a warm and inviting space, belying its expansiveness as a 100-seater. Clad in dark timber and light-filled, with sage green walls adorned by still life oil paintings and vintage furnishings, Molli is simultaneously classy and cosy. Seating can range from tables and banquettes to a wraparound bar overlooking the open kitchen, where one can witness firsthand the flames of Molli's prized Josper charcoal oven. Get there between the witching hours of 5 and 6pm on weekdays to capitalise on Molli's aperitivo hour, a delightful window in time when oysters are $4.50, select beer and wines are $10 and a curated list of cocktails are $14 each. Molli excels in reasonably priced daily specials, whether it's their $30 pasta and vino lunch on Friday and Saturday or their $60 Sunday set meal. Adjacent sister venue Little Molli is a daytime café and deli. Kayla Saito brings her extensive experience as bar manager at Dessous to Molli, with inventive cocktails like the Barracuda Spritz – a summer fizzer featuring housemade pineapple wine and apricot brandy. Courtesy of sommelier Andre Magneklint, the thoughtfully curated wine list blends classics with lesser-known varietals both locally and abroad. Chef Aleks Kalnins, formerly of Hazel and Matilda 159, is at the helm of the food menu. As is the case with many a wine bar, it's eclectic, borrowing influences from Japan, Italy and Spain and incorporating a hyperlocal approach that spotlights fresh produce from notable Australian suppliers like Brisbane Valley Quail, Ramarro Farm, Alpine Trout Farm and Portarlington Mussels. Sustainability is a keen focus of both the food and drinks menu, with tipples like carrot top vermouth crafted from wine wastage and leftover carrots and condiments like ketchup fashioned from Swiss brown mushroom juice. The mini potato rosti is making an appearance at wine bars around Melbourne, most notably at fellow newcomer Elio's Place. While Elio's version is topped with trout mousse, Molli's is covered in the lighter cod roe, an ideal complement to the rosti, itself sublimely crisp on the edges with a pleasantly sticky texture within. The BBQ scallop doused in a buttery and piquant sauce of fermented bullhorn pepper is a highlight. Be sure to order some of the country loaf, purveyed by famed Collingwood bakery To Be Frank, to mop up the sauce. Interspersed with cubes of cucumber and sitting in a pleasantly savoury saffron sauce, the swordfish tartare is a touch too unassuming for our palates after the richness of our previous entrée. The accompanying nori and brown rice crackers, tasty as they are, further overwhelm the mild tartare. Fresh and enjoyable nonetheless, the swordfish tartare would work better as an entrée consumed first. Seaweed features again in the deliciously umami nori crumble blanketing the immaculately cooked octopus, served alongside a dollop of harissa aioli. Strewn across with strings of stracciatella, the housemade casarecce in a fermented tomato sugo is akin to a subtler take on the ubiquitous vodka tomato pasta. The pasta is perfectly al dente and the sharpness of the grated hard goat's cheese chevrano ups the ante, but the dish arrives curiously cold. On the other hand, the Humpty Doo barramundi is faultless, perched on a bed of spring greens in a sea of lovage sauce. More than worthy as sides are the smoked baby potatoes, once again topped with nori, and butter lettuce peppered with the sweet citrus undertones of lemonade fruit. The chocolate and pickled cherry torte we enjoy for dessert is also good, even if upping the pickled cherries quotient would've resulted in a more complex, multidimensional dessert. In essence, the vibes are unimpeachable at Molli. Barring a few minor quibbles with the menu, our experience bears testament to the thought and care that has gone into curating a space that is already beloved by Abbotsford locals and nearby visitors alike.
The Star
13-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Star
Fun, feisty Latin flavours at Sol, a new rooftop restaurant in KL
Perched on the 40th floor of The Met in Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur, is a restaurant called Sol. From an aesthetic perspective, the place is a head-turning stunner. A large, expansive space with a show-stopping bar and an open kitchen somewhere in the corner. Foliage is omnipresent throughout the restaurant and cascades alluringly from the ceiling like verdant green chandeliers. And then there is the view. High above the city's hustle and bustle, you'll get a panoramic visage of KL, from its restless traffic to the copious skyscrapers that wound around each other. And when you squint hard enough, you'll see the denizens of the city in miniaturised forms. It's an enthralling window into the cityscape and its people – all captured within a picturesque restaurant. Sol is the creative output of Leslie Gomez, the founder of the Olive Tree Group which operates restaurants like Frangipaani, La Chica and Luca, to name a few. Gomez has been blazing a trail in the local F&B scene since he first arrived from India many moons ago and opened his first restaurant, Pride of India, in 2003. In those fledgling years, his rate of expansion was relatively modest but began to pick up pace from 2013. Today, he owns and operates 30 outlets. The restaurant has a glass encased eating area that is ideal for star-gazing. With Sol, Gomez says he was actually looking to craft a rooftop bar in the city centre but chanced upon this space instead. 'I always wanted a rooftop bar somewhere in the city centre but it's tied up with buildings, so there's nowhere you can really get a good view of the KL skyline. 'When we saw this place it wasn't really designed for an F&B outlet – it was just an office space. So we redesigned it and everything fell into place,' he says. The restaurant is unique in that it espouses the values of fun-dining, a concept which juxtaposes good food and drinks against the backdrop of live entertainment in the nights. 'This idea is popular in places like Dubai. The food is a highlight but we also bring in good bands to play at night and over the weekends, so there is an entertainment element to your meal. It's something that no one else in KL is doing – I think we are the first ones to introduce the concept,' says Gomez. Gomez is the creative force behind Sol, which celebrates fun-dining and Latin flavours. The food is fused around Latin-American themes that also celebrate the eatery's Josper grill. The menu itself is spearheaded by experienced group chef Fazil Shahreen, better known as Jjay, who recently introduced a spanking new a la carte menu. To begin your culinary adventure here, sample the new fare like the Octopus & Chorizo Skewer (RM42), which is accentuated with pomegranate chimichurri and lime. The chorizo makes use of lamb and has been grilled with chorizo butter, lending it a smoky, meaty countenance that permeates throughout the musculature of the meat. The octopus has spring and bounce in its step, rationed out in bite-sized portions that take the hassle out of excessive mastication. Up next, try the Sesame Crusted Manchego Pepper (RM24). Here, Mexican peppers are stuffed full of Manchego and mozzarella cheese and topped with a pimiento salsa. Stuffed full of cheese, this breaded, deep-fried Mexican pepper is an instant charmer. The pepper is a breaded bombshell that is crisp to the touch and yet yields easily to a gentle succulence and sweetness. This Mexican beauty's natural attributes are given a shot of hedonism, courtesy of the ooey-gooey cheese that oozes out of its pores. It's the equivalent of pairing a good girl with a bad boy and watching sparks fly. Then there is the Rosaceo Salmon (RM42). Here, the salmon has been cured with sugar and salt for six hours, before being sliced up. Soft, velvety salmon is paired with dill oil and cauliflower crema in this inspired dish. The fish is then paired with a cauliflower crema, dill oil, caviar and capers crisp in what proves to be an inspired configuration that puts the voluptuous, silken qualities of the salmon on a pedestal. And yet, as good as the salmon is, the breakout star in this amalgamation is the surprising duo of cauliflower crema and dill oil which collude to provide creamy, oleaginous undertones and a touch of elegance to the meal. If you're up for another dip in sea-faring waters, look at indulging in the goodness of the Charcoal Seared Halibut (RM75). The fish is seared first before being lightly kissed with charcoal on the surface. The charcoal-seared halibut is paired with both salsa verde and salsa macha. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star This aquatic stunner is paired with a salsa verde and salsa macha (made with toasted chilli peppers, garlic, peanuts and sesame seeds) and juxtaposes the freshness and smoky undertones of the fish against the robust, slightly fiery salsa macha in what proves to be an union of equals. Perhaps one of the scene-stealers on the new menu is the Taco Beef Gnocchi (RM48) which features a classic chilli con carne interspersed with gnocchi – both of which are baked together and topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. Gnocchi and chilli con carne make for an unconventional yet winning pairing. This dish is the dictionary definition of 'hedonistic'. It's an unabashedly cheesy offering enlivened with the richness of the chilli con carne, whose goodness soaks into the pillowy contours of the gnocchi, lending the meal an instantly addictive appeal. The Nduja Cabbage (RM29) is a game-changer of a dish – the sort of revolutionary culinary icon that startles you into covert submission from the get-go. Even if you're not a fan of cabbage, you'll find yourself bending to the will of this vegetal vixen. While Nduja is traditionally a pork sausage, in this iteration, Jjay has converted it into a lamb variant and then turned that into a nduja butter. The Nduja cabbage converts a pedestrian vegetable into a culinary superstar. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star This unctuous power tool is then brushed over the cabbage, which is grilled and subsequently oven-baked. The cabbage is then enhanced with feta cheese, which has been whipped with jalapeno and coriander leaves and the entire concoction is topped with dehydrated black olives. The cabbage is astoundingly good – lightly charred, caramelised to a buttery, burnt consistency outside with a sweet crunch inside. The savoury richness of the nduja permeates throughout the vegetable while the feta adds a creamy, herbaceous element to the meal. End your meal on a sweet note with the beguiling qualities of the Tiramisu (RM30), which has Spanish coffee, smoked mascarpone, smoked paprika and honey chilli powder. Chilli in your tiramisu might not sound great in theory, but this sleeper hit is a surprising winner. — Photos: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star I understand the foreboding and sense of apprehension you might feel about even trying this sweet, spicy temptation but let me assure you, sometimes the best adventures can only be experienced when you choose to take a leap of faith. Do this and you'll discover a world of pleasure hidden within the chambers of this dessert, which churns out a tapestry of bold, caffeine-laced flavours with surprisingly good fiery underpinnings. Moving forward, the industrious Gomez says he isn't content to rest on his laurels. Despite having only just opened Sol, he has plans to open even more outlets in the near future. 'I have been in Malaysia for 26 years now, and this country has given so much to me. I am very grateful and want to continue to give back, so in another three to four years, I hope to have 50 outlets,' he says, smiling. Address: Level 40, Menara The Met, Jalan Dutamas 2, 50480 Kuala Lumpur Open: Monday to Friday: noon to 2am; Saturday to Sunday: 3pm to 2am
Chicago Tribune
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Chicago Tribune
Restaurant news: Proxi evolves with coastal Asian focus in the West Loop
Proxi, the Michelin Bib Gourmand global street food-inspired restaurant open in the West Loop since 2017, has evolved with a new coastal Asian focus. The sibling to Sepia, the Michelin-starred restaurant next door, debuted the new menu April 16. Chef Andrew Zimmerman owns both award-winning restaurants with managing partner Emmanuel Nony. The evolution is a culmination of the journeys of Zimmerman, Nony and chef de cuisine Jennifer Kim. Kim was the chef and owner of the creative Korean American restaurant Passerotto and seafood deli Snaggletooth before joining Proxi in 2023. 'When I started here two years ago, I was just so enthralled by what they were doing here,' said Kim, who uses the pronoun they. 'I've always looked up to chef Andrew.' Focusing the restaurant's menu on the things that interest the trio, they added, gives more clarification to guests on exactly what they're doing. What's the Korean American chef de cuisine's favorite part of the new menu? 'I'm always just gonna go to the raw section,' said Kim, laughing. 'Because I love making raw, like, hwe.' Hwe is a Korean raw seafood dish similar to Japanese sashimi. Proxi has expanded its raw and chilled section, now featuring the chef's sliced hiramasa crudo with coconut milk, grapefruit and Vietnamese cilantro, or rau ram. But the menu kept a couple of fan favorite dishes, Kim said, that already fit within the framework of coastal Asian, including the wagyu beef cheek in panang curry with coconut sticky rice and peanuts. 'If there's a little bit left in the pot at the end of the night, that's what everyone wants,' they said. ''Oh, I just want that last spoonful.'' Proxi has gradually introduced changes but waited to unveil its most dramatic dish when it launched the new menu: a seafood platter with oysters, a scallop tartare and poached blue prawn. You can also add an uni shooter and king crab legs. But half the hot line at Proxi is all live fire, said the chef, with a wood fire grill and a Josper charcoal oven. 'If we look at some of the coastal Asian countries, like, how do they utilize live fire? What is their practice with it? And what's the significance?' Kim said. 'Those are things that we want to be able to incorporate into the menu.' They noted the wood-fired 14-ounce wagyu New York strip steak as a favorite, served with a signature sauce (ssamjang butter, soy-black garlic jus, miso hollandaise, Sichuan 'salsa verde') plus the option to order more, including a Thai jumbo lump crab 'Oscar' topping. The Josper oven also will cook the coal-roasted scallops served with a Thai yellow curry and an herb salad, as well as smoked mushrooms, grown by Four Star Mushrooms in West Town. 'The edges are crispitized nicely,' Kim said of the mushroom dish. Desserts were created by Erin Kobler, who's also the executive pastry chef for Sepia. But the popular green curry banana split, which will stay on the menu, was created by Zimmerman. One new sweet they're especially excited about is Kobler's baba au soju, said Kim, a riff on baba au rhum, the classic airy cake traditionally soaked with rum syrup. Look for barley soju, and a tableside flaming waterfall presentation. The bar team has expanded non-alcoholic drink options and added new cocktails, including their Oribu No Eda, aka freezer olive martini. 'It does not taste like a martini at all,' Kim said. Their cocktail uses clarified umeboshi liquid from the Japanese salted and fermented plums. The drink is refreshing and well-balanced, said the chef, something they would want to start their meal with. When Kim closed Passerotto in October 2020, in part because of the pandemic, the chef didn't think they would ever return to restaurants. 'It would just really have to be a very specific type of environment,' Kim said. 'And I feel very fortunate that I'm able to work here with Andrew.' Zimmerman is a chef and owner, they added, who treats people with respect and kindness. 'And tons and tons of room for collaboration,' said the chef de cuisine. 'I think there's no recipe for success, other than just being a good person, which sounds silly, and just being a really good chef.' 565 W. Randolph St., 312-466-1950, More new openings, in alphabetical order: 3LP & Seoul Taco Asian restaurant entrepreneurs and friends Henry Cai aka Fat Head Henry and David Choi have collaborated on a new location, bringing their creative Chinese American and Korean American food together. 3LP (formerly 3 Little Pigs Chi) & Seoul Taco dropped April 4 in Hyde Park. Get 3LP's Italian beef-inspired original hot pot beef sandwich, Seoul Taco's namesake favorite with bulgogi and the collab K.F.C. sandwich with crispy fried chicken dipped in gochujang honey sauce plus kimchi slaw. 1321 E. 57th St.; 773-891-2266; Deere Park Chef and partner Todd Stein (Sophia Steak, Pomeroy) has transformed a North Shore restaurant into an American comfort food brasserie with restaurateur and business partner Josh Kaplan. Deere Park kicked off April 8 in suburban Highwood. Look for roasted chicken with a fennel crust; a Samoa sundae with caramel hot fudge and toasted coconut; plus Todd's martini served with potato chips. 200 Green Bay Road, Highwood; 847-926-7319; Nadu Michelin-starred chef Sujan Sarkar (Indienne, Sifr) has opened a regional Indian restaurant. Nadu launched April 3 in Lincoln Park. The menu recommends pre-ordering one dish, 'The Special One,' a crab milagu fry from Kerala with a whole Dungeness crab cooked with Tellicherry peppercorns, tomato, shallots, garlic and spices, served with nei choru, or ghee rice. For dessert, you'll find the apricot delight from Hyderabad with vanilla sponge cake soaked in condensed milk, layered with poached apricot and whipped cream, then topped with apricot jelly and almonds; drinks feature a cocktail with clarified masala chai and whiskey. 2518 N. Lincoln Ave., 872-315-2158, Rendang Republic Chef John Avila (Minahasa) has brought an Indonesian restaurant back to Chicago with co-founder Rizal Hamdallah. Rendang Republic began service April 5 in Wrigleyville. Start with the rendang plate (featuring classic beef, chicken or jackfruit), then their Duck Inn-do hot dog with a duck hot dog by The Duck Inn, topped Indonesian Chicago style with sambal aioli, acar relish, fried shallot, cilantro, green onion and tomato, all in a poppy seed bun. 3355 N. Clark St., In reopening news: Doughboy's Chicago, home of the world-famous Spaghedough, its signature saucy and hearty spaghetti, just celebrated its reopening at a new location in the South Loop Food Company cloud kitchen on April 28. 2537 S. Wabash Ave., 773-970-6666, In closing news: Taylor's Tacos, specializing in fusion Mexican street-style and Black tacos, will close its taco shop in Little Italy on May 6, but the catering and events side of the company will remain in business, so you'll still be able to treat yourself and friends to chef and owner Taylor Mason's award-winning Sexy Crispy Shrimp tacos and more. 1512 W. Taylor St., 312-526-3903,
