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From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District
From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District

The Guardian

time4 days ago

  • The Guardian

From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District

If being near water is your idea of heaven, Denmark's very own Lake District, Søhøjlandet, is the ultimate jewel-green retreat. This region of immense natural beauty provides an idyllic backdrop to all kinds of outdoor adventures, from kayaking and paddleboarding to swimming and fishing. What's more, it's one of Denmark's most elevated geographical areas, with much of it covered by natural woodland – perfect for mountain biking or hiking through undulating forest trails. Located in Jutland, in the middle of Denmark, the Lake District Søhøjlandet is easily reached from the nearby city of Aarhus, yet a world away from the bustle of everyday life. Make Silkeborg your hub – the picturesque town sits in the centre of the region and is Denmark's official 'outdoor capital'. Here you can combine culture, shopping and Danish hospitality alongside forays into the hinterland for more energetic pursuits. And if you're not inclined towards an awfully big adventure, Silkeborg itself has its own 'Silk Route', taking visitors past the colourful buildings of the old town to forest paths and lakeside beaches on a 7.5-mile circular trail. Tackle it all at once or in sections, stopping off at key attractions, such as the Aqua Aquarium and Wildlife Park or The Paper Museum, where you can discover the history of the old mill that helped establish Silkeborg in the 19th century. Of course, it's the surrounding waterways that are Silkeborg's main attraction, with the abundant lakes connected by the Gudenåen – at 100 miles it's Denmark's longest river. Lyngsø, an urban lake formed by an ice age depression, is a top spot for freshwater swimming and fishing, and covers an impressive 9.7 hectares, meaning you'll always find a tranquil spot to call your own. At nearby Almindsø, you can enjoy one of two main bathing pools, each encircled by wooden platforms – just perfect for jumping in and making a splash. Or head to Langsø – with gardens that reach the water's edge, it's a lovely spot for a picnic or an afternoon of gliding along on a paddleboard. With so many naturally wild spaces and thriving habitats for birds and mammals, you'll want to keep an eye out for wildlife. At Sminge Lake, north-east of Silkeborg, the marshes and reeds provide breeding grounds and a safe haven for abundant birdlife, including Nordic waterfowl. Crossed by the Gudenåen and fed by the Gjern River, this spot can be reached by the towpath and is worth exploring by kayak or canoe, which can be rented in town. Slåensø is another of Denmark's most pristine lakes – here, wildlife flourishes and the water is clean enough to drink. With the nearby Kongestolen, or King's Seat, at 82 metres offering gorgeous views over the water, you could make a day of it with a loop around the 2-mile lakeside rambling trail. Another way to take in the enormous expanse of waterways is to board a traditional steamboat. There are nine in total, whose names translate to birds such as the falcon, heron and tern. The mother of them all is the Hjejlen, which began sailing in 1861 and is the world's oldest coal-fired paddle steamer. Declared a historical monument by the Ship Preservation Foundation, and enjoyed by the writer Hans Christian Andersen, it can ferry you in the summer months beyond Silkeborg to the villages of Laven and Ry, which are part of the scenic Himmelbjerget trail. At 147 metres above sea level, the 'sky mountain' Himmelbjerget is one of Denmark's highest points. Historically important as a centuries-old meeting point, climbing the hill offers panoramic views over Lake Julsø and the surrounding countryside, along with the chance to explore the 25-metre tower built in 1875 as a memorial to King Frederik VII. For a faster-paced way to explore, take to the area's network of mountain bike trails that take you from the Nordskoven forest to the Gjern Bakker hills. Known affectionately as 'Denmark's Roof', the terrain here offers dramatic uplands and deep valleys. Or opt for the old railway line that runs between Funder and Brande, through the deciduous forests of East Jutland – a gentler nature trail that's suitable on foot, bike or horseback. Whether you seek thrills or tranquillity, Lake District Søhøjlandet's mix of land and water adventures promises both restoration and inspiration. Explore the lakes and trails of Søhøjlandet

Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers
Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers

The Guardian

time4 days ago

  • The Guardian

Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers

Whether you're a seasoned adventurer ready to take a multi-day canoe trip through Denmark's varied landscapes, or you just want to find some peace in nature on an afternoon hike, the diverse outdoor attractions of Aarhus and the surrounding region offer everyone a chance to explore at their leisure. Located in Jutland, the mainland peninsula of Denmark that borders northern Germany, this area is full of spectacular nature experiences, from glorious sandy beaches to ancient landscapes shaped by the ice age. Can you be outdoorsy in a city? Aarhus says you can. From its numerous biking routes to its royal hunting forest, not to mention its harbour, Denmark's second city has a lot to offer. The city's harbour baths, floating swimming pools in the clear, clean harbour, are a great place to start. Opened in 2018, they quickly became a popular hangout on a sunny day, and incorporate a range of different pools, sundecks and diving platforms. It's all free – just bring a swimsuit and a towel. There are plenty of other water-based activities to try in Aarhus, too. At La Sauna, you can try the Danish tradition of saunagus. It's a combination of sweat, scent oils, music and low lighting, with a saunagus master on hand to guide you through three intense sessions over the course of about an hour. Surf Agency, also in the city, offers paddleboard trips and kiteboarding options, led by certified teachers. You don't have to have any experience of these sports as there are courses suitable for all levels. The calm waters around the Aarhus coastline offer ideal conditions for paddleboarding in particular, so it makes for an unforgettable day out that the whole family can share. Beyond the water, head to Marselisborg Forests just outside the city centre for walks under beech trees and a 16-mile mountain bike trail. The 550-hectare forest has a deer park, campsites, old watermills and even an amusement park among the trees. Locals love the True Forest, a favourite picnic spot and hiking and running area. Funny you should ask: Djursland, 40 minutes' drive north-east of Aarhus, happens to be the area's unofficial adventure playground. Much of it is given over to Mols Bjerge national park, a beautiful, diverse area of landscape that includes forests of ancient trees, little harbours, swathes of sandy beaches and pastures. It's also home to the very pretty town of Ebeltoft, where you can pick up the ingredients you need for a picnic. Mols Bjerge is renowned as a great place to go hiking – the 50-mile Mols Bjerge mountain trail is one of the best known – and you'll find everything from castle ruins to troll forests in the ice-age scenery along its route. Beyond the national park, there are some lovely coastal cycling routes in this gentle scenery. As well as paths that wind in and out of woodlands and small villages, there are a number of routes along old railway lines and, near Ebeltoft, an established mountain bike route. Much of the scenery in this area is harmonious and gentle – rolling hills that sink down to gently shelving beaches. Karlby and Sangstrup Cliffs are a neat counterpoint to all of this: two rather unusual sandstone cliffs three miles long and 17 metres high on the northern part of Djursland. On the rocky beaches beneath them, you're likely to find fossils, including petrified sea urchins, and even stone-age flints. Look out for porpoises just offshore. An hour's drive to the north-west of Aarhus, Viborg offers more adventures in Danish nature. It's the starting point for one of Denmark's most ancient routes: the Hærvejen, or the ancient road, which runs down the spine of Jutland. The full 620-mile route can be done on foot or by bike, staying at little hostels along the way. A bit like the South West Coast Path in the UK, it can be broken up into distinct sections so you do it over multiple trips, exploring forests and lakes and towns established by the Vikings. The main stage is from Viborg to Jelling, along which you can discover some of Jutland's most beautiful scenery, from heather-clad hills to quiet paths winding past large dolmen and burial mounds. You'll end your journey at the Jelling Stone, one of Denmark's most significant Viking sights. Viborg may be inland, almost equidistant from Jutland's east and west coasts, but there's still lots of water to enjoy. At the Viborg lakes Nørresø and Søndersø, you can swim, fish for carp or go paddleboarding. A bike ride around the lakes shows the town off from all its angles. It's also a good place for a troll hunt: scrapwood artist Thomas Dambo has hidden one of his many trolls in the Viborg area. The river delta at Randers, 45 minutes' drive north of Aarhus, is the ideal location if you like to canoe. The country's longest river, the Gudenåen, flows through the city and from there you can pick up a number of extraordinary canoeing adventures, suitable for all abilities, where you can travel across broad lakes, paddle past old mill villages and explore the natural wildlife as you go. Kingfishers flit across the water and the peace and quiet you'll discover is magical. It's easy to do it as a day trip from the city. Beyond the river, Randers offers plenty of space to breathe, notably along the Randers Fjord, where reed beds grow, ready to be used in thatched roofs, and yachts sail gently by. For wildlife lovers, Naturpark Randers Fjord is not to be missed. This stunning nature reserve encompasses the area where the fjord meets the saltwater of the Kattegat, the strait joining the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, and tidal flats and salt meadows fringe the water. It's a lovely area for hiking and birdwatching – eagles have been spotted – as well as boating. In the summer, the area's many shelters offer a chance to sleep out under Denmark's wide, starry skies. Discover the outdoor soul of Denmark in the Aarhus region

Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies
Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies

New York Times

time09-05-2025

  • Business
  • New York Times

Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies

In the sprawling flatlands of Denmark's Jutland peninsula, near the small town of Give, a family-owned company called Welcon has been gearing up to build giant, cylindrical wind turbine towers for a multibillion-dollar project. The project, a wind farm called Empire Wind, is being built by the Norwegian energy giant Equinor in the waters off Long Island, N.Y. But those plans were thrown into disarray last month when the Trump administration, which is skeptical about offshore wind power, ordered an indefinite halt to construction. The pause shocked Carsten Pedersen, who owns Welcon with his brother Jens, and the wind industry. 'It's, in my opinion, a banana republic over there,' Mr. Pedersen said, referring to the chaotic blitz of policy changes coming from Washington. 'You cannot just stop projects' whose developers have already put in years of work. Welcon was tapped as a subcontractor to supply the towers for the project by Vestas Wind Systems, a leading wind turbine maker, which has its headquarters in Aarhus in Jutland. If Empire Wind is permanently shut down, Vestas will lose a manufacturing order likely worth around $1 billion for 54 of its latest turbines, which have blades nearly 380 feet long. The contractors would probably receive some compensation from Equinor. The wind industry is crucial to Europe's ambitions to tackle climate change and enhance energy security, but three months into President Trump's second term in office, industry executives are reassessing their approach to renewable energy. An important question is whether the president's initial flurry of actions, as well as worries about what may come, will derail what looked like the beginning of an industry recovery. The wind business took a pounding after the pandemic, when higher interest rates and inflation turned contracts and projects into loss makers. Industry executives are counting on Europe to make up for a pullback in the United States. 'We don't see anything happening in the U.S. jeopardizing the perspective for offshore wind in Europe,' said Rasmus Errboe, chief executive of Orsted, a Denmark-based global wind developer. He added that he expected offshore wind to make up 20 percent to 25 percent of Europe's electric power generation by 2050 compared with roughly 4 percent in 2024, implying that hundreds of billions of dollars will be spent on new facilities. Overall, wind provided about 20 percent of Europe's electricity in 2024, according to WindEurope, an industry group. Vestas and Orsted both reported positive first-quarter financial results this week. Vestas said it had earned a small profit of 5 million euros in the quarter, compared with a loss a year earlier, while Orsted, which had earlier taken large write-offs on some planned projects in the United States, said profit was up 87 percent, to 4.9 billion danish krone, or about $744 million. The share price of Vestas is down about 50 percent from a year ago, and Orsted's has fallen about 40 percent in that same time. In a sign that the economic and regulatory environment remains difficult, even in Europe, Orsted said Wednesday that it would not proceed with a large planned wind facility called Hornsea 4 in Britain's North Sea. Mr. Errboe blamed rising prices from suppliers and uncertainty for the decision, which still will cost the company as much as 4.5 billion krone or about $680 million to compensate contractors and other expenses. 'We have simply seen that prices have gone up and also the risk on the project has gone up,' he said. Despite the risks, offshore wind has been a major success in Northern Europe. Orsted estimates that the cost of electricity from these installations fell 70 percent from 2015 to 2020, thanks to ever-larger turbines and other innovations. Since then, though, the cost of wind generation has risen 50 percent. A few years ago, the United States looked like a promising market for offshore wind. Now industry executives assume no new offshore projects will start up under the Trump administration. There are questions over whether the handful of giant projects now underway, which include two by Orsted, called Revolution Wind off Rhode Island and Sunrise Wind off Montauk, N.Y., will be completed. Mr. Errboe said that these projects were already well underway. Orsted took $180 million in write-offs on the value of these wind farms because of the impact of the 25 percent tariff imposed on imported steel and aluminum by the Trump administration. Because it is mainly a land-based-turbine builder, Vestas, which has 30 percent of the world market outside China, is somewhat insulated from the travails of offshore wind, a newer, riskier industry. Henrik Andersen, the company's president and chief executive, said in an interview that through the pandemic and earlier periods of international concern about China, Vestas had learned to geographically arrange its turbine manufacturing to reduce damage from tariffs and other measures. 'We generally tend to shuffle things around,' he said. Vestas has factories in Colorado, where it has been producing land-based turbines that it sells in the United States, one of its largest markets. Mr. Andersen said these facilities had been running 'seven days a week' to produce turbines ordered under the favorable conditions that prevailed during the Biden administration. Having U.S. factories, he said, reduced the affect of tariffs, although some components like generators are still likely to be imported. Whether factories will continue to operate at full tilt depends on whether confidence returns. Orders for onshore turbines in the United States have dried up, at least temporarily, as developers wait for the White House to clarify policies. Endri Lico, a principal analyst at the consulting firm Wood Mackenzie, estimates that turbine orders in the United States have fallen to their lowest level since the first quarter of 2020. 'Uncertainty dominates,' he said. Dealing with changes and unknowns has become a wind executive's role. 'Of course, I don't know what will be announced in five or six days from now,' Mr. Andersen said. What is certain, though, he said, is costs will be passed on to customers and 'tariffs will mean higher electricity prices in the U.S.'

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