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Italy mulls certification to safeguard fashion sector amid scandals
Italy mulls certification to safeguard fashion sector amid scandals

Yahoo

time23-07-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Italy mulls certification to safeguard fashion sector amid scandals

Adolfo Urso, Italy's industry minister, told fashion trade bodies during a meeting that a few unlawful businesses in the fashion supply chain have tainted the image of 'Made in Italy', according to sources cited by Reuters. Last week LVMH's Loro Piana cashmere brand was put under judicial administration for a year for allegedly subcontracting production to suppliers that allegedly exploited workers. The administration seeks to address the shortfalls in its supply chain. According to the Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, Loro Piana said: 'In breach of its legal and contractual obligations, the supplier did not inform Loro Piana of the existence of these subcontractors. Loro Piana was made aware of this situation on 20 May, and, as a result, the maison terminated all relations with the concerned supplier in less than 24 hours. 'Loro Piana firmly condemns any illegal practices and reaffirms its unwavering commitment to upholding human rights and compliance with all applicable regulations throughout its supply chain.' The Reuters report says this is the fifth luxury brand to undergo such court monitoring in Italy since early 2024. "We cannot allow the illicit behaviour of a few to compromise the reputation of the entire sector, penalising many virtuous companies and, consequently, our Made in Italy brand, which is a symbol of excellence and quality," Urso said. The ministry is working on a measure to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the supply chain in advance, he added, so that brands do not have to answer for the conduct of their suppliers or subcontractors. "Italy mulls certification to safeguard fashion sector amid scandals" was originally created and published by Just Style, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site.

Italy moves to safeguard fashion sector reputation after labour scandals
Italy moves to safeguard fashion sector reputation after labour scandals

Reuters

time22-07-2025

  • Business
  • Reuters

Italy moves to safeguard fashion sector reputation after labour scandals

MILAN, July 22 (Reuters) - A few unlawful businesses in the fashion supply chain have tainted the image of 'Made in Italy', Italy's industry minister said on Tuesday, adding that he is working on a certification scheme to remedy this after the latest high profile case. Cashmere company Loro Piana, controlled by French luxury group LVMH ( opens new tab, was put under judicial administration last week after prosecutors uncovered evidence of worker abuses in its supply chain. The label was the fifth high-end brand to undergo such court monitoring in Italy since early 2024. "We cannot allow the illicit behaviour of a few to compromise the reputation of the entire sector, penalising many virtuous companies and, consequently, our Made in Italy brand, which is a symbol of excellence and quality," minister Adolfo Urso told fashion trade bodies during a meeting, according to a source. The ministry is working on a measure to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the supply chain in advance, he added, so that brands do not have to answer for the conduct of their suppliers or subcontractors. Units of fashion brands Valentino, Dior, Armani and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini were previously placed under administration in Italy for similar alleged worker exploitation. In the case of Loro Piana, the Court of Milan found it "culpably failed" to adequately oversee its suppliers in order to pursue higher profits, according to the ruling. Prosecutors in that case said the violation of rules among fashion companies in Italy was "a generalised and consolidated manufacturing method". Italy is home to thousands of small manufacturers that make up 50%-55% of global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain has calculated. Italian legal and political authorities, fashion industry bodies and trade unions signed an action plan in May to fight worker exploitation in the apparel and accessories supply chain, after prosecutors uncovered widespread abuse.

Milano Unica Starts Strong Despite Declining Exports
Milano Unica Starts Strong Despite Declining Exports

Yahoo

time10-07-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Milano Unica Starts Strong Despite Declining Exports

Milano Unica's 41st edition welcomed 735 exhibitors showcasing Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collections of high-end fabrics and accessories—an 8.7 percent uptick in the Italian textile trade show's European participants year over year. Beyond the increased number of exhibitors, president Simone Canclini highlighted the value that first-time attendees bring to the show floor. More from Sourcing Journal Zalando Drops First Collection with Circ Lyocell Bluezone Organizers Energized by New Format and 'Edu-tainment' Program Bondcote Performance Textiles Acquires Graniteville Specialty Fabrics 'These numbers reflect growing confidence in our trade show and give us renewed responsibilities to support and promote the industry, despite the uncertainties and criticalities of the global economy and the international geopolitical scenario,' Canclini said. 'While data from the economic studies and statistics office of Confindustria Moda indicates that we are not yet out of the tunnel, there is a glimpse of light.' According to that data from the federation of Italian fashion, Made-in-Italy textiles closed 2024 with total sales of 7 billion euros (about $8.2 billion), down 8.8 percent. Exports amounted to 3.8 billion euros (about $4.45 billion), marking a 10.7 percent dip. 'The trends vary significantly by product segment and destination market, particularly the U.S. and China,' Canclini continued. 'The same applies to the divergent trends between the performance of knitted versus woven fabrics.' That said, those glimpses of light could consider the collections on display at Fiera Milano. Here's a handful of collaborations coming straight from the show floor. The Lenzing Group unveiled innovative fiber blends addressing a persistent pain point for circularity: maintaining quality with recycled inputs. Developed in partnership with four Italian manufacturers— spinner Marchi & Fildi, knitter Maglificio Maggia, weaver Destro Fabrics and knitwear manufacturer Madiva—the regenerated cellulosic fiber supplier demonstrated a trio of mechanically-recycled fibers that had consistent, commercially-viable results. Those innovations—Tencel Lyocell LF, Tencel Lyocell LFH and Tencel Lyocell A100—had 'overcome the inherent irregularity and inconsistent quality typically associated with recycled natural fibers,' Lenzing said. 'As brands increasingly commit to incorporating recycled content, they are tirelessly seeking practical solutions that maintain quality standards,' said Carlo Covini, textile accounts manager for Italy and Switzerland at Lenzing. 'By combining the inherent qualities and environmental benefits of our Tencel Lyocell fibers with mechanically recycled cotton, silk and wool, we're bridging the quality gap that has limited recycled content adoption.' The approach leveraged Lenzing's various (and distinct) lyocell fiber variants, including those with micro technology—aka fibers characterized by a titer that is equal to or smaller than 1.0 decitex—to address specific recycled material challenges. 'This isn't just a material innovation,' Covini continued. 'It's a pathway for brands to explore what's possible in circular fashion while delivering on the premium quality consumers expect.' Low-fibrillating Tencel Lyocell LF and Tencel Lyocell LFH fibers 'contribute exceptional softness and processing stability,' while Tencel Lyocell A100 'enables brilliant color uptake and performance,' attributes the company said are of particular value when working with 'inherently inconsistent' recycled fibers. 'This project allows us to take our expertise in mechanical fiber recycling to the next level,' said Alberto Grosso, business development manager at Marchi & Fildi. 'Exploring new potential applications for recycled fibers in collaboration with internationally recognized companies is a unique opportunity for us to expand our yarn offering with varieties tailored to specific market demands.' That approach yielded various applications, too. Results included premium knits combining A100 with recycled silk, wool or cashmere; apparel fabrics blending LF with varying percentages of recycled cotton; and performance constructions incorporating world-first, Cradle to Cradle-certified elastane Roica V5504 alongside Tencel fibers and recycled content. 'We are very happy to be involved by Lenzing in its projects since supply chain projects are always the most successful ones,' said Giovanna Maggia, board director at Maglificio Maggia. 'In this case, the chance to use recycled silk together with Tencel is a great opportunity to mix both sustainability and luxury.' On the topic of luxury, 2025 marks a turning point for the sector, according to Claudia D'Arpizio, senior partner and global head of fashion and luxury at Bain & Company. As new generations seek authenticity and creativity, the central value of the experience is restored. 'Today, luxury must be discreet, genuine and aligned with personal fulfillment rather than ostentation. The segment must also redefine its cultural, generational and geographic relevance,' D'Arpizio said during her keynote. 'By 2030, the market is expected to expand to over 300 million new consumers— half of whom will be from Gen Z and Gen Alpha—who are demanding and values-driven consumers. In a world where turbulence is the new normal, companies must show resilience and long-term vision.' For Asahi Kasei, that was Bemberg: 'a rare fiber that's meant to be lived, not just worn.' Made from refined cotton linter—a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil—that's then dissolved using a proprietary closed-loop process to produce pure, regenerated fiber. The Japanese company unveiled 18 partners for Fall/Winter 2026-2027, 14 of which are attending Milano Unica. That includes Prato-born Alberto Bardazzi, early Fashion Forever Green Pact signatory Brunello, Varese-based Ezio Ghiringhelli and Portugal's Sidónios, among others. Spanning three 'emotional dimensions,' Italian lace manufacturer Iluna Group's season takes place in the heart, in the mind and in the dream. The first chapter is expressed through laces and lace patterns evocative of delicacy and sweetness while 'in the mind' encompasses lace featuring abstract or stylized geometric elements, the Made-in-Italy company said. Lace with starry dust, layered textures and flocked effects round out the final chapter, in the dream. The group also shared eco-updates like 99 percent recycled yarn offered in select laces; stretch laces with Roica EF assist the fabric in hitting up to 80 percent recycled content. 'The continued growth in both quantity and quality of Milano Unica's international role is attributable to the exhibitors' creative and product innovation and the trade show's distinctive nature,' said Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica's general manager. '[It's] an event created by entrepreneurs, for entrepreneurs, as a collaborative platform to support the excellence of Made-in-Italy and Made-in-Europe fabrics and accessories in the international competition scenario.' Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data

Tod's and Schiaparelli owner Diego Della Valle on the impact of Trump's tariffs on the EU, AI's inability to replace a true ‘Made in Italy' artisan, and why the shoemaker doesn't chase trends
Tod's and Schiaparelli owner Diego Della Valle on the impact of Trump's tariffs on the EU, AI's inability to replace a true ‘Made in Italy' artisan, and why the shoemaker doesn't chase trends

South China Morning Post

time07-07-2025

  • Business
  • South China Morning Post

Tod's and Schiaparelli owner Diego Della Valle on the impact of Trump's tariffs on the EU, AI's inability to replace a true ‘Made in Italy' artisan, and why the shoemaker doesn't chase trends

Italian luxury tycoon Diego Della Valle has been extolling the virtues of 'Made in Italy' since he joined his family company back in 1975, when it was an anonymous firm making quality footwear for luxury brands. He eventually turned it into one of the most respected names in luxury: Tod's. His global ambitions were clear from day one. After fully taking the reins in 1984, Della Valle named the company J.P. Tod's (later changed to the simpler Tod's), believing that the English-sounding name would resonate around the world. Back then, the Marche region of Italy, where Della Valle was born in 1953, was already the epicentre of shoe manufacturing in the country. From leather goods in Tuscany to silk fabrics in Lake Como and gold jewellery in Veneto, Italy is still where most creations from luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering come to life. Advertisement 'Made in Italy' has become a byword for this precious know-how, often romanticised by brands trying to capitalise on the allure associated with Italian craftsmanship and culture. Given his background and family history, it's no surprise that Della Valle has become a de facto ambassador for 'Made in Italy' and a defender of all it represents. Tod's Gommino shoes are a timeless design. Photo: Handout Last year, however, the prestige of that label came into question after the Italian government probed some factories making goods for high-end Italian and French brands over worker exploitation and safety. Tod's is one of the few vertically integrated Italian companies fully in control of its supply chains – it owns its own factories and does not have to rely on large numbers of external suppliers that are not always easy to monitor. 'You have to be careful not to demonise a brand just because it's famous and say things that are not true just for [the sake of] headlines,' says Della Valle. 'But [at the same time] when a brand is important and has a strong reputation, it's not worth making little short cuts that from a financial point of view don't really help, but from an image point of view can be disastrous. You also have to be careful because this affects the whole concept of 'Made in Italy' and its reputation, and journalists end up believing all this and then it becomes more dangerous when it spreads via social media because you can't control it. Before talking about these things you need to actually visit these companies and not talk from an ivory tower.' While Della Valle is first and foremost known for Tod's, he is one of Italy's most celebrated – and wealthiest – industrialists. Parisian shoemaker Roger Vivier and casual footwear brand Hogan are also part of Tod's Group, while he personally owns French couture house Schiaparelli , which he single-handedly revived. He is also on the board of LVMH – the largest luxury group in the world – and was one of the founders of Italo, a successful high-speed railway company. He's seen it all, which is why he is very pragmatic about the current crisis gripping the luxury industry, especially in China, where reduced consumer confidence has impacted spending after the success brands experienced during and after the coronavirus pandemic.

Minotti brings Italian craftsmanship to the Gulf as demand for high-end interiors surges
Minotti brings Italian craftsmanship to the Gulf as demand for high-end interiors surges

Khaleej Times

time26-06-2025

  • Business
  • Khaleej Times

Minotti brings Italian craftsmanship to the Gulf as demand for high-end interiors surges

Nearly a year since opening in Jumeirah, Minotti Dubai has become a cornerstone of the luxury interiors scene. Realised with Al Tayer Insignia, one of the Middle East's most prestigious retail groups, the flagship reflects the Gulf's growing appetite for timeless interiors. As the UAE's furniture market climbs from $3.7 billion in 2024 toward $5.4 billion by 2033, Minotti's aesthetic rooted in craftsmanship and Made in Italy authenticity is resonating. 'The Gulf region, and Dubai in particular, has become an international hub of extraordinary cultural and economic relevance,' says Renato Minotti, Co-CEO and second generation in the company. 'Over the past two decades, we've seen a real evolution in the market – witnessing a growing appreciation for high-end Made in Italy furnishings. This is driven by a sophisticated audience that values quality and design integrity. The Dubai flagship embodies this shift and deepens our longstanding connection with the Middle East.' Spanning 900 square metres across two levels and designed by Minotti Studio, the space offers a fully immersive lifestyle experience. With sculptural forms, rich textures, and residential-style layouts, the interior feels more like a villa than a showroom. A chestnut-lacquered fireplace and winter garden further echo Minotti's understated elegance. Since opening, the store has become a hub for both design professionals and private clients, offering context-rich displays of Minotti's collections. European Icons Meet Gulf Ambitions The Middle East's design landscape is undergoing a shift. As demand grows for furnishings that reflect vision and heritage, brands like Minotti are finding new relevance. 'Minotti has been present in this market for nearly 20 years,' continues Renato Minotti. 'Over time we have witnessed a growing appreciation for high-end Made in Italy furnishings. Our collections have been able to interpret, and often anticipate, contemporary lifestyles… Dubai itself has evolved into a global architecture lab… In this context, design plays a strategic role: it becomes both a language of identity and a bridge between tradition and innovation.' Collections like Torii Nest Outdoor by Nendo, Patio by GamFratesi, and the modular Yves system by Hannes Peer are now part of the architectural fabric of the region's luxury spaces. 'Among the areas where our style is most appreciated, the living space and outdoor areas undoubtedly stand out... There is a growing demand for furnishings that reflect a lifestyle of elegance and conviviality – spaces that feel warm, welcoming, and refined.' Adapting Made in Italy for the Gulf Founded in Media Italy in 1948, Minotti is still led by the family's second and third generations. 'Our vision is rooted in strengthening our presence in markets that reward excellence and customisation… Minotti Dubai is a clear example of this: the space was designed to reflect the local spirit and lifestyle, interpreted through our aesthetic language.' 'I believe what people are seeking is authenticity, quality, and lasting value… Our brand fits perfectly into this landscape, thanks to our ability to evolve while staying true to our identity.' With demand rising 18 per cent in the UAE in 2024, Minotti is set to open a flagship in Riyadh. 'We see the Middle East as a strategic region for long-term investment… Our goal is to continue building a coherent, deeply rooted presence that fully expresses the identity of the Minotti brand.'

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