Latest news with #MadeinItaly
Yahoo
a day ago
- Business
- Yahoo
Camera della Moda President Gets Vocal on Made in Italy Ethics, Unveils 2025 Sustainable Fashion Awards
MILAN – Carlo Capasa is pushing back on the narrative that Made in Italy lacks ethics. The president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana got vocal on Wednesday defending the country's high-end fashion supply chain against ongoing claims describing it as failing to fulfill the principles of quality, work ethics and sustainability that the sector has long prided itself on. More from WWD Giorgio Armani Has Busy Plans for Its 50th Anniversary Celebrations in September EXCLUSIVE: Knwls Joins Milan Fashion Week Schedule EY Report Says Italy's GDP Could Shrink 1.4 Percent If U.S. Tariffs Hit 30 Percent Such allegations that have swirled in media reports and on social media follow recent cases of alleged workers' exploitation, abuse and sweatshop schemes in the Italian fashion supply chain. The most recent links Loro Piana to sweatshop subcontractors that the brand failed to properly audit and follows earlier similar incidents for Dior, Giorgio Armani, Valentino and Alviero Martini. All brands have been put under judicial administration, with the former two brands' probes fully resolved and the judicial administration procedures lifted. 'The message trickling down is wrong and dangerous. It conveys the idea that fashion equals labor exploitation and luxury is unethical,' Capasa said at the end of a press conference here to unveil the 2025 edition of the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards to be held in September. 'As much as it shouldn't exist entirely, the illegal supply chain is confined to a small portion,' he said, noting how according to reports from the National Institute for Statistics, or ISTAT, the sector allegedly employs illegally about 30,000 workers, compared to a total workforce of 600,000 people across its industrial operations. The tally, Capasa said, is far below other industries. 'According to our estimates, irregular suppliers contribute to just 2 to 3 percent of the high-end fashion production in the country,' he added. 'Brands are an injured party in these incidents. Compliant brands and supply chain players are negatively impacted by this,' he offered. 'How can it be in a brand's economical interest if it covers only 2 to 3 percent of production,' he continued. 'So who does have the best interest to portray this phenomenon as widespread?' Capasa questioned rhetorically. He suggested that bad publicity fueled by competitors — which he didn't name — has been ramping up as of late, aimed at denting Made in Italy's global recognition. The executive also refuted the assumption that discrepancy between manufacturing costs and related retail prices is proof of work abuse practices, as widely suggested in reports about the Loro Piana case, said to sell cashmere jackets with a price tag of 3,000 euros, which, through its subcontractors, would allegedly actually cost only 100 euros. As reported, the luxury label has denied this claim. 'It's a strategy to hit Made in Italy as the first global producer of high-end and luxury fashion,' Capasa opined. As reported, Camera Della Moda has not been taking these issues lightly. The fashion governing body is among signatories of the memorandum of understanding issued last May to tackle worker exploitation, undeclared work, tax evasion, and unfair contractual practices in the fashion supply chain. Promoted alongside the Milan Prefecture, Confindustria Moda and Confindustria Accessori Moda, among other entities, the non-legally binding memorandum entails an action plan to tackle those issues. Its scope is currently limited to the Lombardy region, which observers have described as one of its weaknesses. To this end, in a separate fashion roundtable held on Tuesday at the Ministry of Enterprises and Made in Italy, the same fashion associations and trade unions addressed the issue, urging the government to define a country-wide mandatory protocol to ensure the sector complies with fair work standards. 'Regular employment, traceability, and compliance must become systemic standards for the sector in order to safeguard our most valuable brand: Made in Italy,' said Confindustria Moda president Luca Sburlati. 'A unified national auditing protocol is not only desirable but also necessary and urgent. We may not fully realize it, but we are facing attacks even from abroad,' he offered. 'It is baffling that institutional players are unable to establish a mandatory nationwide system for certifying legality across the supply chain — one that ensures decent jobs and wages; compliance with the National Collective Labor Agreements signed by the most representative trade unions and employer associations; health and safety conditions, and measures to fight unfair competition. Such a system is essential to safeguard the entire manufacturing sector,' echoed unions Filctem Cgil, Femca Cisl and Uiltec Uil in a joint statement. 'The survival of the entire supply chain is at stake,' concurred Capasa on Wednesday. In keeping with its mission to support the sustainable development of Italian fashion, Camera della Moda has earmarked Sept. 27 for the 2025 edition of the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards. Organized in collaboration with the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, the seventh edition of the awards will be held at Teatro alla Scala during Milan Fashion Week, which runs Sept. 23 to 29. The event will hand out 10 awards including for Craft and Artisanship; Diversity, Equity and Inclusion; Circular Economy; Biodiversity and Water, as well as the Groundbreaker and Visionary awards, among other prizes. A special award — the Bicester Collection Award for Emerging Designers, promoted by the Value Retail-owned shopping destinations operator — will reward three up-and-coming designer brands. The finalists include Institution by Galib Gassanoff; Sake, the regenerative fashion project established by Colombian designer and textile researcher Ana Tafur, and Simon Cracker founded by Simone Botte and helmed alongside Filippo Biraghi since 2019. All three brands will enjoy a business-oriented mentorship program powered by The Bicester Collection, while the winner will have the opportunity to present its collection at The Apartment, the by-invitation-only space for private client experiences located at the Fidenza Village shopping destination or at one of the other Bicester villages. 'This marks our sixth year collaborating on this award… but our commitment to innovative design and creativity has been going on for the past 30 years, it's part of our DNA,' said Desirée Bollier, chair and global chief merchant for Value Retail Management. 'We have mentored more than 100 designers, and some have gone on to create amazing careers. What we do is offer them a platform to be visible across three continents — the U.S., Asia, and Europe and U.K. — where we welcome 50 million guests a year, and a mentorship program. Combining talent and visibility will allow these designers to flourish in their business acumen,' she offered. An independent jury chaired by Paola Deda, chairperson of the U.N. Alliance for Sustainable Fashion and director at UNECE, will assign all the awards. The jury panel includes artist Michelangelo Pistoletto; Federico Marchetti, chairman of The Sustainable Markets Initiative's Fashion Task Force; Chloe Mukai, head of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, and Xenya Scanlon, lead of the U.N. Fashion4Land Initiative and chief of communications, external relations and partnerships at the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification, among others. Best of WWD Walmart Calls California Waste Dumping Lawsuit 'Unjustified' Year in Review: Sustainability's Biggest Controversies of 2021 Year in Review: Sustainability's New Strides
Fashion United
a day ago
- Business
- Fashion United
Made in Italy under scrutiny: A call for transparency and credibility
"Made in Italy" has recently come under intense scrutiny, not only due to tariffs that continue to penalise many sectors despite recent trade agreements, but primarily because of persistent issues surrounding illegal labor exploitation. Companies are also grappling with significant difficulties in effectively monitoring their entire supply chains, encompassing both direct suppliers and sub-suppliers. These incidents of exploitation, the latest of which involves the prestigious Loro Piana brand, consistently highlight a critical theme for FashionUnited: the paramount importance of transparency and clear communication. Businesses must sincerely, simply, and carefully explain what "Made in Italy" truly signifies and how its standards are upheld throughout the production process. Saying "Made in Italy" without concrete explanation is no longer enough Simply stating that a product is "Made in Italy" without a concrete explanation is no longer sufficient to entice customers. This is particularly true in light of revelations concerning exploitation and unsafe working conditions, even involving highly prestigious brands. The knowledge that a designer handbag or luxury garment, retailing for thousands of euros, is sometimes paid to the supplier for a mere few tens of euros, as uncovered by various investigations, exacerbates the problem and alienates consumers from designer labels. Less than a week ago, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of CLASS, an international eco-hub based in Milan, spoke with FashionUnited. She warned that claiming to be "Made in Italy" without a precise, clear, simple, concrete, and concise explanation of the concept is unhelpful, benefiting neither fashion nor the supply chain. A few months prior, Renzo Rosso, owner of OTB, the holding company behind brands such as Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf, also urged brands to speak up. He encouraged them to explain and demonstrate what "Made in Italy" genuinely represents. "We have unique qualities, good taste, we must assert ourselves for who we are and for what we have to offer," explained the founder of OTB. "Italy produces around 80 percent of the world's luxury goods and is considered the number one country for the production chain. This is why our artisans are sought after all over the world, we must not let them escape," Rosso emphasized to RaiNews24 during the programme Pomeriggio 24, on Made in Italy Day. Among the prominent supporters of a concrete approach to "Made in Italy" is the Minister of Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso. Last week, he announced that the introduction of a certification system was under consideration. This announcement followed the placement of the Loro Piana brand under judicial administration for alleged violation of workers' rights. Urso told trade associations during a fashion roundtable that some illegal businesses in the fashion supply chain have tarnished the image of "Made in Italy." A statement from the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy clarified, "To counter the illegal behaviour of a few regarding labour, which can damage the reputation of the entire sector, Urso highlighted that the government is working on legislation to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the sector, with the aim of offering a structural solution to the problem." This proposed legislation seeks to certify the supply chain belonging to the brand owner, based on specific preliminary checks. The goal is to prevent the brand owner from being held responsible for illegal or opaque behavior attributable to suppliers or sub-suppliers along the chain. What truly defines "Made in Italy" However, the fundamental questions remain: what truly defines "Made in Italy," and can certification genuinely provide a comprehensive solution? Experience with certifications for gender equality indicates that such measures, while useful, have not fundamentally altered corporate approaches or fully equalized treatment in the workplace. Similarly, the introduction of increasingly stringent regulations, while necessary, is often insufficient on its own. Therefore, this issue is complex and deeply cultural, encompassing numerous facets. In some instances, it may be necessary to move beyond the "Made in Italy" label and instead focus directly on the credibility of the brand, its people, and the company itself. Patrizio Bertelli, owner of Prada, was an early proponent of this view, decades ago advocating for "Made in Prada" to de-stigmatize offshoring to China. His philosophy was that if a product bore the brand's logo, it inherently guaranteed quality production, sustainable practices, and social responsibility. Adriano Goldschmied, widely known as "the godfather of denim," echoes this sentiment. He has consistently maintained that a product must be "made anywhere" but ultimately a winner. As far back as 2017, he told FashionUnited that "Made in Italy" could be seen as a "sin of presumption." He argued that consumers trust the brand, not merely the "made in" label. "I'll give you an example: this phone I have in my hand is an Apple; the consumer doesn't care whether it's made in Taiwan or the US, but they care that it works well, which is guaranteed by the brand. This philosophy of 'Made in Italy', in many cases, has taken the Italian market out of reality. It is also true that in Italy there are excellent companies that know how to do their job, examples of great skill and quality," Goldschmied explained. "The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality and that's what counts, not the 'made in' label. You have to be 'made anywhere but a winner'," Goldschmied concluded. This reflection holds more relevance now than ever. To successfully navigate this complex situation, the industry must regain credibility through storytelling that communicates impeccable, real, and concrete story-making. The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality Credits: FashionUnited, image generated with the help of Artificial Intelligence This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Yahoo
5 days ago
- Business
- Yahoo
Carrefour sells Italian supermarkets to NewPrinces for €1 billion
Carrefour supermarkets in Italy will soon be in the hands of Italian food multinational NewPrinces Spa, who announced the roughly one billion euro purchase on Thursday. The NewPrinces group owns the Plasmon, Centrale del Latte, Giglio, Polenghi Lombardo and Delverde food manufacturing brands, among others. The acquisition of approximately one thousand shops now requires authorisation from the relevant authorities, with a view to closing by the end of the year with Carrefour Nederland Bv and Carrefour Sa. With this transaction, the Reggio Emilia-based company reaches a potential turnover of 11 billion euros, becoming the second-largest Italian group in the food sector by turnover and the largest operator in terms of employment, with 13,000 employees in Italy and more than 18,000 worldwide, as well as 11,000 in related industries. "The acquisition of Carrefour Italia represents a fundamental step in the growth trajectory of our Group," said NewPrinces Group Chairman Angelo Mastrolia, "with this operation, we take a decisive step towards vertical integration between production and distribution, strengthening our ability to generate value along the entire supply chain." NewPrinces may decide to relaunch the Gs supermarket brand and rename the stores after three years. The food retailer was founded in Italy in the 1960s and was replaced by Carrefour stores in 2010. Related Approved: Paramount's $8 billion deal with Skydance can go ahead Exclusive: Chinese electric carmaker Zeekr eyes pan-European growth despite tariffs, acting CEO says Unrest proclaimed among Carrefour workers After the news of the takeover, the trade unions Filcams CGIL, Fisascat Cisl and Uiltucs declared a state of strike due to Carrefour Italy's failure to respond regarding the workers' prospects. The unions have asked for a meeting at the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy to 'review the recovery plan', which is expected to include brand and development investments totalling more than €400 million between the seller and buyer. Minister Adolfo Urso expressed his "appreciation for an operation that strengthens Made in Italy," confirming that he will soon meet both Mastrolia and the unions. The French newspaper Les Echos commented on the news, writing that Carrefour 'removes a thorn from its foot', as its Italian operations were recording annual losses of €180 million. Carrefour president, Alexandre Bompard, assured the newspaper that he was leaving "Carrefour Italy in good financial condition."
Euronews
5 days ago
- Business
- Euronews
Carrefour sells Italian supermarkets to NewPrinces for €1 billion
Carrefour supermarkets in Italy will soon be in the hands of Italian food multinational NewPrinces Spa, who announced the roughly one billion euro purchase on Thursday. The NewPrinces group owns the Plasmon, Centrale del Latte, Giglio, Polenghi Lombardo and Delverde food manufacturing brands, among others. The acquisition of approximately one thousand shops now requires authorisation from the relevant authorities, with a view to closing by the end of the year with Carrefour Nederland Bv and Carrefour Sa. With this transaction, the Reggio Emilia-based company reaches a potential turnover of 11 billion euros, becoming the second-largest Italian group in the food sector by turnover and the largest operator in terms of employment, with 13,000 employees in Italy and more than 18,000 worldwide, as well as 11,000 in related industries. "The acquisition of Carrefour Italia represents a fundamental step in the growth trajectory of our Group," said NewPrinces Group Chairman Angelo Mastrolia, "with this operation, we take a decisive step towards vertical integration between production and distribution, strengthening our ability to generate value along the entire supply chain." NewPrinces may decide to relaunch the Gs supermarket brand and rename the stores after three years. The food retailer was founded in Italy in the 1960s and was replaced by Carrefour stores in 2010. Unrest proclaimed among Carrefour workers After the news of the takeover, the trade unions Filcams CGIL, Fisascat Cisl and Uiltucs declared a state of strike due to Carrefour Italy's failure to respond regarding the workers' prospects. The unions have asked for a meeting at the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy to 'review the recovery plan', which is expected to include brand and development investments totalling more than €400 million between the seller and buyer. Minister Adolfo Urso expressed his "appreciation for an operation that strengthens Made in Italy," confirming that he will soon meet both Mastrolia and the unions. The French newspaper Les Echos commented on the news, writing that Carrefour 'removes a thorn from its foot', as its Italian operations were recording annual losses of €180 million. Carrefour president, Alexandre Bompard, assured the newspaper that he was leaving "Carrefour Italy in good financial condition."
Express Tribune
7 days ago
- Business
- Express Tribune
Italy cracks down on fashion sector
A few unlawful businesses in the fashion supply chain have tainted the image of 'Made in Italy', Italy's industry minister said on Tuesday, adding that he is working on a certification scheme to remedy this after the latest high profile case. Cashmere company Loro Piana, controlled by French luxury group LVMH, was put under judicial administration last week after prosecutors uncovered evidence of worker abuses in its supply chain. The label was the fifth high-end brand to undergo such court monitoring in Italy since early 2024. "We cannot allow the illicit behaviour of a few to compromise the reputation of the entire sector, penalising many virtuous companies and, consequently, our Made in Italy brand, which is a symbol of excellence and quality," minister Adolfo Urso told fashion trade bodies during a meeting, according to a source. The ministry is working on a measure to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the supply chain in advance, he added, so that brands do not have to answer for the conduct of their suppliers or subcontractors. Units of fashion brands Valentino, Dior, Armani and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini were previously placed under administration in Italy for similar alleged worker exploitation. In the case of Loro Piana, the Court of Milan found it "culpably failed" to adequately oversee its suppliers in order to pursue higher profits, according to the ruling. Prosecutors in that case said the violation of rules among fashion companies in Italy was "a generalised and consolidated manufacturing method". Italy is home to thousands of small manufacturers that make up 50 to 55 per cent of global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain has calculated. Italian legal and political authorities, fashion industry bodies and trade unions signed an action plan in May to fight worker exploitation in the apparel and accessories supply chain, after prosecutors uncovered widespread abuse. Reuters
