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Telegraph
3 days ago
- General
- Telegraph
The cheaper, quieter Amalfi Coast alternative only in-the-know Italians visit
Envisioning Italy's coastline often conjures up the colourful cliffside villages of the Amalfi Coast, or the vibrant, emerald sea of Sardinia. However, tucked along the Adriatic coast in central Italy's Marche region, the Conero Riviera (Riviera del Conero) feels like a well-kept secret whispered only among those in the know – a slice of paradise far from the hordes. Towering over the 20 kilometres of shoreline is Monte Conero, a 572-metre limestone promontory that disrupts the usual, flat rhythm of Italy's other Adriatic beaches. Rich vegetation, characterised by Mediterranean scrub and Aleppo pines, spills down rocky slopes to meet white-pebbled beaches and azure waters, offering a theatrical interplay between cliffs, forest and sea. Beyond its raw nature, the coastline is punctuated by charming hilltop towns, where cobbled streets slalom past stone houses and panoramic terraces overlook the waves. Buses and trains are few and far between in the area, meaning renting a car is the best way to get around smoothly. Fortunately, there are a number of car rental services at nearby Marche Airport, which was recently ranked as Italy's 27th busiest – far below the likes of bustling Rome Fiumicino or Milan Malpensa. But this lack of public transport only helps to preserve Conero's authenticity. Take the walled town of Osimo, just 15 kilometres southeast of Ancona. Known locally as the 'town without heads' – a nod to the 12 headless statues which line the entrance of the town hall – Osimo's spiritual crown jewel, Cathedral of Saint Leopardo (named after the town's first saint), is a striking blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Just a five-minute walk from the 12th-century cathedral is the Basilica of St Giuseppe of Copertino, a church teeming with colourful Giotto-style frescoes. Beneath the streets lies a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers, the caves of Osimo (grotte di Osimo), some of which date back 2,500 years. The multi-layered network, which can only be accessed with a tour guide, includes former worship sites, catacombs and war shelters. Of the four caves, Grotte del Cantinone is the largest. South of Osimo is the Conero Regional Park, a protected natural area home to rare coastal fauna and wild boar – the latter of which is also a staple on the menus of local agriturismi (farmstays), which dish up farm-to-table meals including local cheeses that are washed down with a glass of Rosso Conero, a full-bodied red made with Montepulciano grapes. Agriturismo Poggio del Conero and Agriturismo La Sorgente both come highly recommended. Trekking is a popular pastime in this neck of the woods, and though trails are well-signposted, it's advisable to check the Ente Parco del Conero website or AllTrails before heading out. The North and South Belvedere offer sweeping views of the blue-flag beaches below, whilst the Passo del Lupo trail offers a more focused view at the iconic Two Sisters (Le Due Sorelle) beach. Folklore has it this particular beach – named after the two stacks jutting out of the sea – owes its origins to a siren who lured sailors into a cave with her voice. To help her capture them, a sea demon transformed into a rock, which then split into two parts, forming the 'sisters'. To reach this wild beach, you'll need to take a boat from the neighbouring Numana port. Note that there are no beach services available here, however, so remember to bring your own towels, food and drink. If you're after easy-to-reach beaches with a few facilities, fret not: there are plenty in the surrounding area including, Portonovo, San Michele, Sassi Neri, Urbani and Del Frate. Del Frate beach is closest to Sirolo, a medieval village perched on the southern slopes of Monte Conero. The village has a laid-back, quaint feel, with many small shops selling handmade goods reflecting the town's heritage, and alleyways lined with an abundance of colourful houses perfect for getting lost in. For the best views, grab a gelato from Gelateria Quattrini (which makes classic flavours as well as experimental ones) and head over to the panoramic balcony, where rumour has it you can see Croatia on a clear day. Likewise, for aperitivo, swan over to Il Grillo to sip a glass of wine whilst snacking on olive all'ascolana, moreish green olives stuffed with mincemeat and cheese then fried in breadcrumbs. Ristorante della Rosa and Vicolo Urbani are both good options for dinner, both offering tasting menus and their own fresh produce – though the former has the added bonus of a sea view. Within walking distance of Sirolo is Numana, a town divided into two parts: the old-world Numana Alta and the livelier Numana Bassa. Both have easily accessible beaches with various amenities. Specialties along the shore include moscioli di Portonovo (mussels harvested from the area and served steamed, with lemon, or tossed in pasta) and brodetto all'anconetana, a rustic fish stew made with up to 13 types of seafood simmered in tomato, garlic and vinegar. While most towns in the area serve these dishes, one no-frills local favourite in Numana is Ricci Pescato & Fritto di Ricci Fernando, known for its freshly fried fish. The fare is easy on the purse strings without scrimping on flavour. If that isn't enough to whet your appetite, wine lovers can indulge in tastings of Rosso Conero (among others) at Fattoria le Terrazze vineyard – a winery that's been in the same family since 1882, and sits just a five-minute drive from the centre of Numana. Another short drive – this time inland – takes you to Loreto, a hilltop town famous for its Basilica della Santa Casa, believed to house the Holy House of Nazareth, where the Virgin Mary lived and received the Annunciation. It's one of Italy's most important pilgrimage sites, and a thoroughly fitting end to your offbeat adventure in Italy's best Amalfi alternative. Essentials
Yahoo
19-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
March du Nain Rouge returns for 2025 with a new twist: Details
Detroit's Marche du Nain Rouge will descend upon Midtown once again on Sunday, March 23, for a wild afternoon and evening along the Cass Corridor. But this year, there's a twist – the legend of the red demon that has persisted for centuries is being rewritten. 'We're back, and in our mid-teens,' said Marche organizer and co-founder Francis Grunow. 'It's kind of hard to believe it's been going that long. 'This year, we still have the parade kicking off at one o'clock. And we're actually going to feature a bit of a retelling of the Nain Rouge myth. He's kind of like our version of Punxsutawney Phil, except he's more cantankerous.' In correlation with this, the Marche du Nain Rouge website reminds attendees not to chase the Nain if or when he appears. Grunow also said this year will feature more focus on local, Detroit-based bands for the community stage, located at the intersection of Canton Street and Second Avenue. More: In life-sized rodent costume, 'Trash Squirrel' picks up litter across Detroit, Hamtramck More: Marche du Nain Rouge 2024: Detroit parade to mark start of spring draws hundreds 'We have entertainment starting around 11:30 a.m., with electronica music from Strand; Greektown Hotbox, who's a world-famous bucket drummer from Detroit; and then, of course, the Gabriel Brass Band will bring us into the parade.' The parade route will begin at the community stage, head west on Canfield and south on Second Avenue, and circle Cass Park before heading back toward Masonic Temple, where the afterparty will take place. Revelers are encouraged to wear costumes, masks, or whatever fun adornment is needed to get in the party mood. Grunow said this is a perfect year for people who've never attended to check out the event. 'The world is constantly changing and challenging,' he said. 'The parade provides an opportunity for people to come out and express themselves and bang pots and pants and just have a day where they can enjoy a beautiful time in the city with other people, who might be dressed in some strange outfit that requires explanation.' The outdoor celebration, which began in 2010, heralds the start of spring and gives area residents a unique way to display their Detroit pride. The Nain Rouge ('red dwarf' in French) is an urban legend woven through pivotal moments in Detroit history. It is said the red demon appeared to the city's founder, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, who suffered financial ruin soon afterward. Subsequent Nain "sightings" have preceded disasters ranging from the 1805 Detroit fire to the 1967 riot. This year's event aims to change that narrative. Learn more about the event at Contact Free Press arts and culture reporter Duante Beddingfield at dbeddingfield@ This article originally appeared on Detroit Free Press: March du Nain Rouge returns for 2025 with a new twist: Details
