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National Geographic
6 days ago
- National Geographic
Why you should visit Dortmund—Berlin's flourishing little brother
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Dortmund is one of the largest centres in Germany's own 'Rust Belt', the Ruhr — a cluster of western cities that became heavily industrialised after the late 18th century. For more than 100 years, the city was a hub of coal and steel production, the chimneys of its factories piercing the smog. While much of the heavy industry is now gone, the ghosts of this heritage still hulk over the landscape, with disused manufacturing sites offering glimpses into the past, and serving as reimagined spaces for art and culture. Before exploring Dortmund's industrial sites, take a walk around the historic centre. The city was founded in 882, and a clutch of churches is testament to its medieval history. Marienkirche is remarkable for its sandstone altar with a lavish blue, red and gold triptych (an art work composed of three panels) by 15th-century local artist Conrad von Soest. Directly opposite lies Reinoldikirche, named after Dortmund's patron saint; climb the 200 steps to its belltower for views across the city. Nearby, Petrikirche is home to Das Goldenes Wunder von Westfalen ('The Golden Miracle of Westphalia'), a winged altar that, when opened, reveals 36 panels and 633 gilded figures. Germany's currywurst — a street food consisting of sliced bratwurst sausage smothered in a spicy sauce and served with chips or a bread roll — has a cult following in Dortmund. Try it at Wurst Willi, or get your fix at Böckels Beste, with four distinctive black-and-yellow sites around the city. Beer is equally revered; in addition to coal and steel production, brewing was once one of Dortmund's primary industries. In the centre, Zum Alten Markt is a rustic restaurant that's been serving beers on tap and Westphalian cuisine, including pork knuckle, since 1956. Across the square, Wenkers am Markt offers a vast range of beers in a more modern, sports-bar environment. On the edge of the centre, and topped by a golden 'U', the U-Tower used to house the headquarters of Union Brauerei, once one of the city's largest breweries. Today, there's a free-to-access viewing platform on the rooftop, while the floors beneath have been given to cultural spaces. Here Here, Museum Ostwall is a highlight, with 20th-century art on display across three levels. Another transformed space is 26.4-acre Hansa, a former coking plant located 30 minutes from the centre by public transport. It closed in 1992, and it's now preserved by Germany's Foundation for the Protection of National Monuments. Tours offer glimpses into the city's industrial past, including technical demonstrations of the gas-compressors. The site is also home to SchwarzGold, a fine-dining restaurant in the former deep-freeze plant. The setting combines heavy industry — high ceilings, raw concrete, exposed girders — with design flourishes, such as clever lighting and gold chain curtains. Michelin-acclaimed chef Pierre Beckerling's 'Straight outta Ruhrpott' tasting menu changes weekly and comes with unexpected plating elements, such as a wicked stepmother figurine looming over an apple-themed dessert. Since the 1990s, Dortmund has been synonymous with football thanks to the superstardom of local team Borussia Dortmund. For a fascinating view into wider German football history, the German Football Museum — directly opposite the central station — shouldn't be missed. Exhibits cover everything from the score predictions of a 'psychic' octopus to the story of how women's football overcame adversity, as well as England's controversial third goal in the 1966 World Cup. Did the ball cross the line? Watch in slow motion and cast your vote. Three highlights 1. Wurst WilliThis imbiss (snack bar) has achieved star status in the currywurst world — and with good reason. The sausages are sourced from a German butcher, and the sauce is made fresh every day. To order like a local, nod enthusiastically when asked: 'ein bisschen scharf?' ('spicier?'). 2. The Dortmund Brewery Museum In the 1960s, Dortmund produced more beer than anywhere else in Germany. This free-to-visit museum traces the history of brewing in the city with exhibits including equipment, labels and ads, from branded glasses to an original 1922 beer truck. It's a 25-minute bus journey from Dortmund's main station. 3. Westfalenstadion Time your visit with a Borussia Dortmund match and experience Die Gelbe Wand ('The Yellow Wall' — the sight of the team's fans in the south stand, all clad in yellow shirts and chanting. At other times, book a guided tour and learn more about the club's history at the adjacent Borusseum.


National Geographic
21-06-2025
- Entertainment
- National Geographic
Where to eat the best fish and chips in Cornwall
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Come summer, nothing quite hits the spot like a generous serving of fish and chips eaten beside the Cornish coast. Whether wrapped in vinegar-soaked paper — perhaps enjoyed on a harbour wall — or served in a pub garden accompanied by a chilled local cider, this iconic British dish never fails to satisfy. Traditionally made with cod or haddock, deep-fried to a golden crisp and paired with thick-cut chips, tartare sauce and a liberal splash of vinegar, fish and chips is a meal steeped in nostalgia, often evoking childhood memories of summers spent by the coast. Although its exact origins are a source of debate, what seems clear is that the dish first emerged in 19th-century Britain as an affordable, hearty meal for the working classes not only in London's industrial East End but also in Northern English mill towns. Its large helpings and low cost made it a wartime staple, too — one of the few unrationed foods — and over time, it became a cherished Friday-night tradition, rooted in the Catholic culinary custom of meat-free meals on this sacred day. Today, Cornwall's fish and chip scene is more diverse than ever, thanks to greater access to fresh catch and a commitment to quality ingredients not just in beloved local chippies but in a host of restaurants, including Michelin-acclaimed kitchens. Furthermore, innovative chefs such as Benjamin Palmer, at The Sardine Factory in Looe, and Paul Ainsworth at The Mariners, in Rock, are honouring this classic meal while experimenting with creative new twists. To discover the best of Cornwall's fish and chips this summer, here are six must-visit spots. Harbour Lights, Falmouth For award-winning chips and community spirit Family-run and proudly Cornish, Harbour Lights, in Falmouth, isn't just another chippy — it's a local institution. Set above the harbour, this long-standing favourite was a top-10 finalist in the National Fish & Chip Awards 2019 and sources its fish daily from nearby Newlyn. A regular cod costs £17.95, and double-fried chips — made from Cornish potatoes — start at £4.85. Beyond the classics, the team encourages diners to try something new. The menu features Cornish hake and plaice alongside starters such as salt and pepper squid, crispy whitebait and breaded king prawns. Diners who eat in get unlimited chips with their main course. What sets Harbour Lights apart, though, is its strong community presence. The team supports causes such as the Fishermen's Mission through regular donations and hosts the Harbour Lights' Community Hero Awards to recognise civic-minded local residents. They've also taken to the stage with the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide at Falmouth's Oyster Festival and even offer an annual gift card providing 12 fish and chip meals for £170 for their most loyal customers. The Sardine Factory, Looe For Michelin-garlanded dishes At Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded The Sardine Factory, the fish and chips is prepared with all the precision you'd expect of a fine dining establishment. Housed in a restored 19th-century sardine factory overlooking the harbour, this relaxed, award-winning restaurant is the passion project of local chef Benjamin Palmer, who returned home to celebrate Cornish seafood. Benjamin's take on traditional fish and chips (£20) — served with caramelised lemon and a selection of condiments — shares the menu with dishes such as dry-aged pollock ceviche, smoked haddock scotch egg and Cornish crab mac and cheese. The restaurant has a strong focus on local produce, with most ingredients sourced from the nearby Looe market and the surrounding area. Looe's Sardine Factory serves up not just traditional fish and chips, but also other Cornish-inspired dishes such as smoked haddock scotch egg and crab mac and cheese. Photograph by The Sardine Factory Harbour Chippy, Newquay For a classic menu with a modern twist Just a stone's throw from the fishing boats of Newquay's historic waterfront, Harbour Chippy serves succulent, flaky fish and chips with all the charm you'd expect from one of the best traditional seaside spots. Owned by Rob and Jen Randell, this family-run, takeout-only venue is located on one of the oldest roads in Newquay, offering the expected classics with refreshingly inclusive offerings. Alongside freshly cooked cod and chips (small portions from £6.10), there's a dedicated vegan selection — including battered sausages, pea fritters and nuggets — all fried in vegetable oil by the Chippy's vegan fryer. Plus, to cater to those with gluten sensitivities, a separate fryer is used for wheat-free batters and chips. This year, the couple also introduced a touchscreen ordering system, a nod to their forward-thinking ethos. If you've still got room for something sweet afterwards, pop next door to Newquay Waffle Shop, run by their son Matthew. The Mariners, Rock For an elevated, gastropub experience Michelin-recognised The Mariners serves a refined twist on pub classics, including traditional fish and chips. Relaunched in 2019 by Paul Ainsworth — one of Britain's top chefs and a leading name in Cornwall's food scene — alongside his wife Emma, this well-established spot has a terrace overlooking the beautiful Camel Estuary and puts a spotlight on Cornwall's finest produce. Under the direction of head chef Joe Rozier, who previously worked at Ainsworth's Michelin-starred No.6 in Padstow, the menu embraces bold, creative twists — from 'The Dog's Pollock', a pollock hot dog with pickled cucumber and parmesan, to Cornish monkfish served with cockle and clam butter. His elevated take on classic fish and chips (£25) includes line-caught cod, triple-cooked Yukon Gold chips, seaweed tartare, madras sauce and parsley peas. The Mariners is the vision of Paul Ainsworth, one of Britain's most celebrated chefs. Photograph by Chris Fynes (Top) (Left) and Photograph by @ (Bottom) (Right) Rick Stein's Fish & Chips, Padstow For old-time favourites with a premium edge It's hard to visit Cornwall these days without hearing Rick Stein's name — especially in Padstow, where his presence is particularly prominent. For a scenic day out, hire a bike in Wadebridge and follow the Camel Trail along the estuary into town, stopping for lunch at his popular fish and chip shop. Prices lean towards the higher end — with a standard cod costing £19 — but the quality and Stein's enduring reputation keep the crowds coming, so be prepared to queue. Fish such as haddock, hake, lemon sole and cod are fried in beef dripping for a golden, crunchy finish. Unlimited chips are available for an extra £3.95 when dining in, while a standard takeaway portion costs £3.50 and can be enjoyed by Padstow's picturesque harbourfront, just steps away. The menu also features small plates, including honey-drizzled halloumi saganaki, salt-and-pepper prawns and fish tacos. Argoe, Newlyn For a contemporary take that honours local roots Argoe offers a refined take on a fish supper — although not in the traditional sense. Frito misto with aioli is the closest thing this Cornish seafood spot gets to conventional fish and chips. Overlooking the town's busy working harbour, this intimate, wood-clad restaurant features contemporary interiors and a relaxed outdoor terrace. Owned by Richard Adams, a local, the restaurant honours Newlyn's rich fishing heritage with a daily-changing menu that's shaped by chef Angus Powell around the morning's catch. Sharing plates, including grilled piri piri monkfish, hand-dived scallops and smoked whiting roe flatbread, are served with chips or salad and a range of natural wines. Adding to the experience for diners, Angus can often be spotted heading down to the quay to collect fish straight off the boat — a fantastic way to see just how fresh the ingredients are. To accompany your meal, organic wines are poured from taps behind the bar. Since opening in 2021, Argoe has earned a Michelin Guide mention — a status reflected in the premium pricing, with grilled fish typically costing around £43 and chips available as a £6 side. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).