Latest news with #Montenegro
The Guardian
a day ago
- The Guardian
‘Reconnect with yourself and nature': yoga and pristine scenery in Montenegro
I wasn't expecting the welcoming chorus of 'woofs' that greet me when I arrive at FitCamp Montenegro. Then again, the name, suggestive of a 1970s-style fat farm, is misleading. Based in a rustic farmhouse in the hills north-east of Nikšić, the country's second largest city, the Yoga getaway I'm here to sample may focus on wellness and plant-based food – the antithesis of traditional Montenegrin fare – but its friendly dogs and cats would de-stress many a frazzled urbanite. 'We especially want to take care of solo travellers, tailor stays to their needs, and help them reconnect with themselves and nature,' says co-owner Andjela Djokic, as amiable Sivi, part hunting dog, part sheepdog, trots out for a sniff. The retreat is my first stop on a whirlwind trip exploring Central Montenegro. Unlike the overcrowded Adriatic coast (in 2024, 94% of overnight stays in the Balkans country were in coastal areas), the interior of Montenegro is virgin territory for nature lovers. Historically a battleground – the Romans and Ottomans lorded over the region – for me it's love at first sight, a landscape brimming with pristine karst mountains, forests, lakes and rivers. Getting here involved an 80-minute drive from Podgorica, the capital, on a panoramic road, one that on a clear day (alas, it's gloomy when I arrive) takes you within view of Ostrog Monastery, cut high into a rock face in the Dinaric Alps. (These, I learn, stretch the length of the Balkans.) Still, as the wispy clouds trail across the peaks and ridges, I feel I'm entering a delicious hinterland. At the farm, which Andjela runs with her husband, Matija, I settle into my en suite apartment, one of two available to guests. Once a stone barn, it has a balcony from which to soak up the rippling birdsong and mountain scenery. Over in the shared community space, a homely kitchen-cum-lounge area, I tuck into scrambled eggs and thick Montenegrin coffee. 'Every day is a mission to find the eggs,' chuckles my host. Later, I'll visit the chicken coop and permaculture garden, and hear about plans to transition to solar power, but right now I'm itching to unfurl my limbs. It's too wet for yoga, offered on a wooden platform in a meadow on the farm's 19 acres of land. Instead, sockless, I tread gingerly on the adjacent barefoot walk, an array of beach pebbles, pine cones, moss and sharp stones. The sensory stimulus (nature's reflexology) awakens me from my post-travel stupor. There's just time for a snack and a glorious toast with rakija, the local spirit, before Tamara Miljanic, the serene yoga and meditation teacher, offers a pranayama (yogic breathwork) session. As the flute-like call of a cuckoo haunts the skies, I feel the tension seep out of my body. After a salad supper, made by a holistic nutritionist who joins us for the meal, I sleep like a log. The next morning the sun is out and I try the property's heart trail – another cue to be mindful. Wandering along the kilometre-long wooded path, I step over soft, moss-covered stones and flit from wildflower to wildflower like a butterfly. I spot carmine-hued thistle, elegant mauve lupins, ox-eye daisies and dog roses. The dogs, who have come along, plonk themselves next to me like forest sentinels when I sit quietly for a bit. It's hard to leave, but Vučje calls. A mountain lodge and tourist centre within the wider Nikšić region, 18 miles to the east, Vučje is a ski resort in winter and the perfect spot for hiking, horse-riding and cycling in the warmer months. Nestled in a valley, it lies south of the vaunted alpine jewel that is Durmitor national park. A slow-food culture is embraced here. After a stroll in the woods, in the company of the Vučje dogs (owner Andja has a soft spot for strays) it's time for a feast. 'We cure our own meat,' she says, waving towards the meat-drying room. I do my best with a pork steak steeped in cream and mushrooms, kačamak (a rich, tasty concoction made of wheat and cornflour, potatoes, cheese and cream) and local wine – and silently apologise to my arteries. (Vučje caters to vegetarians too.) The room I'm staying in is a little worn but comfortable. In the morning, after priganice (moreish fritters with rosehip jam), more cured meat and pljevaljski (a local cheese), I hike to Durkovo Brdo, a popular viewpoint and, at 1,546 metres, an easy-to-climb peak. Two charming guides, Enisa Djokovic and Dušan Stupar, lead the way. Enisa points out the wild garlic, beloved of the local ursine population, as we emerge from the forest canopy to open pastures ringed by mountains. 'We call them 'bear onions',' she says. 'But don't worry, we carry pepper spray.' Later, the pair drive me eastward to Lukavica, a mountain plateau. A winding road leads us through the beautiful terrain, carpeted with meadows, and dotted with peaks and katuns, hobbity holiday homes (some still used by sheep herders). Astonishingly, ours is the only vehicle. When I step outside, the silence feels potent. A deer bobs away in the distance, and a lone church, St Ilija, stands framed by the mountains. 'There is a 2,000-year-old gravestone here,' says Dušan, before pointing to the looming peak, Mali Žurim (1,962 metres). It looks impossibly steep. 'Next time you come we can hike it. It's easier than it looks,' he says. After a coffee stop at Lake Kapetanovo Jezero, where I spot wild horses, we drive back and the heavens open. Enisa tells me she is Muslim, 'from a small village near Podgorica', and that she celebrates Ramadan and Eid. Dušan, who is also her partner, is Bosnian and Orthodox Christian. 'During the war, my family fled across the mountains,' he says, quietly. 'I was a child and my mother was pregnant at the time.' I wonder if, for him, the mountains represent refuge, a place of sanctuary. For my last day, I head south to Jablan Winery, in the village of Rvaši, south of Podgorica. Wine tastings are popular here, and you can rent an apartment amid the vines. I've spied the e-bikes and I'm off, down euphoria-inducing hairpin bends to Lake Skadar, the largest in southern Europe and a national park. Framed by forest-green slopes, the views of the serpentine Rijeka Crnojevića river and canyon, within the lake system, are ethereal, like a fairytale. At a small resort named after the river, I park the bike and board a small boat for a ride on the lake, through narrow channels teeming with birdlife. 'This is our Amazon,' says Captain Dusko, at the helm, before telling us the giant Dalmatian pelican is Skadar's symbol. As we drift past a carpet of water lilies, I spy a jet-black pygmy cormorant diving for fish, and grey herons in flight. Back on shore, the captain whips up a meal of smoked carp, carp paté, fish soup and grilled trout at his lakeside restaurant. Then it's back on the bike to the vineyard, where a glass of natural wine lulls me into a contented sleep, nursing a yen to return to this enchanted land. The trip was provided by FitCamp Montenegro; its five-night yoga getaway is available May-November for €900, including breakfast, activities and a day trip. Accommodation at Vučje from €37pp a night, with hiking tours from €100 for two. At Winery Jablan the two-bedroom stonehouse costs €55 a night (sleeps five) and the studio from €50 a night (sleeps two); both self-catering, minimum two-night stay, 90-minute food and wine tastings from €35 per person
The Guardian
2 days ago
- The Guardian
‘Reconnect with yourself and nature': yoga and pristine scenery in Montenegro
I wasn't expecting the welcoming chorus of 'woofs' that greet me when I arrive at FitCamp Montenegro. Then again, the name, suggestive of a 1970s-style fat farm, is misleading. Based in a rustic farmhouse in the hills north-east of Nikšić, the country's second largest city, the Yoga getaway I'm here to sample may focus on wellness and plant-based food – the antithesis of traditional Montenegrin fare – but its friendly dogs and cats would de-stress many a frazzled urbanite. 'We especially want to take care of solo travellers, tailor stays to their needs, and help them reconnect with themselves and nature,' says co-owner Andjela Djokic, as amiable Sivi, part hunting dog, part sheepdog, trots out for a sniff. The retreat is my first stop on a whirlwind trip exploring Central Montenegro. Unlike the overcrowded Adriatic coast (in 2024, 94% of overnight stays in the Balkans country were in coastal areas), the interior of Montenegro is virgin territory for nature lovers. Historically a battleground – the Romans and Ottomans lorded over the region – for me it's love at first sight, a landscape brimming with pristine karst mountains, forests, lakes and rivers. Getting here involved an 80-minute drive from Podgorica, the capital, on a panoramic road, one that on a clear day (alas, it's gloomy when I arrive) takes you within view of Ostrog Monastery, cut high into a rock face in the Dinaric Alps. (These, I learn, stretch the length of the Balkans.) Still, as the wispy clouds trail across the peaks and ridges, I feel I'm entering a delicious hinterland. At the farm, which Andjela runs with her husband, Matija, I settle into my en suite apartment, one of two available to guests. Once a stone barn, it has a balcony from which to soak up the rippling birdsong and mountain scenery. Over in the shared community space, a homely kitchen-cum-lounge area, I tuck into scrambled eggs and thick Montenegrin coffee. 'Every day is a mission to find the eggs,' chuckles my host. Later, I'll visit the chicken coop and permaculture garden, and hear about plans to transition to solar power, but right now I'm itching to unfurl my limbs. It's too wet for yoga, offered on a wooden platform in a meadow on the farm's 19 acres of land. Instead, sockless, I tread gingerly on the adjacent barefoot walk, an array of beach pebbles, pine cones, moss and sharp stones. The sensory stimulus (nature's reflexology) awakens me from my post-travel stupor. There's just time for a snack and a glorious toast with rakija, the local spirit, before Tamara Miljanic, the serene yoga and meditation teacher, offers a pranayama (yogic breathwork) session. As the flute-like call of a cuckoo haunts the skies, I feel the tension seep out of my body. After a salad supper, made by a holistic nutritionist who joins us for the meal, I sleep like a log. The next morning the sun is out and I try the property's heart trail – another cue to be mindful. Wandering along the kilometre-long wooded path, I step over soft, moss-covered stones and flit from wildflower to wildflower like a butterfly. I spot carmine-hued thistle, elegant mauve lupins, ox-eye daisies and dog roses. The dogs, who have come along, plonk themselves next to me like forest sentinels when I sit quietly for a bit. It's hard to leave, but Vučje calls. A mountain lodge and tourist centre within the wider Nikšić region, 18 miles to the east, Vučje is a ski resort in winter and the perfect spot for hiking, horse-riding and cycling in the warmer months. Nestled in a valley, it lies south of the vaunted alpine jewel that is Durmitor national park. A slow-food culture is embraced here. After a stroll in the woods, in the company of the Vučje dogs (owner Andja has a soft spot for strays) it's time for a feast. 'We cure our own meat,' she says, waving towards the meat-drying room. I do my best with a pork steak steeped in cream and mushrooms, kačamak (a rich, tasty concoction made of wheat and cornflour, potatoes, cheese and cream) and local wine – and silently apologise to my arteries. (Vučje caters to vegetarians too.) The room I'm staying in is a little worn but comfortable. In the morning, after priganice (moreish fritters with rosehip jam), more cured meat and pljevaljski (a local cheese), I hike to Durkovo Brdo, a popular viewpoint and, at 1,546 metres, an easy-to-climb peak. Two charming guides, Enisa Djokovic and Dušan Stupar, lead the way. Enisa points out the wild garlic, beloved of the local ursine population, as we emerge from the forest canopy to open pastures ringed by mountains. 'We call them 'bear onions',' she says. 'But don't worry, we carry pepper spray.' Later, the pair drive me eastward to Lukavica, a mountain plateau. A winding road leads us through the beautiful terrain, carpeted with meadows, and dotted with peaks and katuns, hobbity holiday homes (some still used by sheep herders). Astonishingly, ours is the only vehicle. When I step outside, the silence feels potent. A deer bobs away in the distance, and a lone church, St Ilija, stands framed by the mountains. 'There is a 2,000-year-old gravestone here,' says Dušan, before pointing to the looming peak, Mali Žurim (1,962 metres). It looks impossibly steep. 'Next time you come we can hike it. It's easier than it looks,' he says. After a coffee stop at Lake Kapetanovo Jezero, where I spot wild horses, we drive back and the heavens open. Enisa tells me she is Muslim, 'from a small village near Podgorica', and that she celebrates Ramadan and Eid. Dušan, who is also her partner, is Bosnian and Orthodox Christian. 'During the war, my family fled across the mountains,' he says, quietly. 'I was a child and my mother was pregnant at the time.' I wonder if, for him, the mountains represent refuge, a place of sanctuary. For my last day, I head south to Jablan Winery, in the village of Rvaši, south of Podgorica. Wine tastings are popular here, and you can rent an apartment amid the vines. I've spied the e-bikes and I'm off, down euphoria-inducing hairpin bends to Lake Skadar, the largest in southern Europe and a national park. Framed by forest-green slopes, the views of the serpentine Rijeka Crnojevića river and canyon, within the lake system, are ethereal, like a fairytale. At a small resort named after the river, I park the bike and board a small boat for a ride on the lake, through narrow channels teeming with birdlife. 'This is our Amazon,' says Captain Dusko, at the helm, before telling us the giant Dalmatian pelican is Skadar's symbol. As we drift past a carpet of water lilies, I spy a jet-black pygmy cormorant diving for fish, and grey herons in flight. Back on shore, the captain whips up a meal of smoked carp, carp paté, fish soup and grilled trout at his lakeside restaurant. Then it's back on the bike to the vineyard, where a glass of natural wine lulls me into a contented sleep, nursing a yen to return to this enchanted land. The trip was provided by FitCamp Montenegro; its five-night yoga getaway is available May-November for €900, including breakfast, activities and a day trip. Accommodation at Vučje from €37pp a night, with hiking tours from €100 for two. At Winery Jablan the two-bedroom stonehouse costs €55 a night (sleeps five) and the studio from €50 a night (sleeps two); both self-catering, minimum two-night stay, 90-minute food and wine tastings from €35 per person
The Independent
4 days ago
- Business
- The Independent
Montenegro tourism boost after securing 350 million euros for transport upgrade
Montenegro has secured 350 million euros from the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development and the European Union to enhance transport connectivity within the Balkan country and with the wider region, the EBRD said in a statement on Thursday. The EBRD will provide a loan of up to 200 million euros to finance the construction of the Matesevo Andrijevica section of the highway connecting the Adriatic port of Bar with the Serbian border, while the EU will contribute two investment grants totalling 150 million euros. Johann Sattler, the EU ambassador to Montenegro, said the grants represented the bloc's clear message of support towards Montenegro's efforts on its path to EU integration. The 22-km long stretch of highway passes through challenging terrain, and will connect Montenegro's underdeveloped north with the more economically active centre and south. The EU has already provided a 4.7 million euro grant for a feasibility study for the Bar-Boljare highway under the Western Balkans Investment Framework. The project constitutes an integral part of the Trans-European Transport Networks. "Modern and reliable transport infrastructure is essential for Montenegroí¢€™s economic development, especially in boosting tourism, trade, and regional integration," said Matteo Colangeli, EBRD Regional Director for Western Balkans. The EU's Sattler added that the bloc had provided more than 350 million euros in grants for transport projects in Montenegro in recent years. The EU launched accession talks with Montenegro in 2012 and since then 33 out of a total 35 chapters of negotiations - areas in which the candidate needs to emulate EU laws - have been opened and three provisionally completed.
BBC News
4 days ago
- Sport
- BBC News
Preston sign Montenegro defender Vukcevic
Andrija Vukcevic has joined Preston North End on a three-year deal after impressing during pre-season 28-year-old Montenegro left-back played against Getafe and Tranmere Rovers after linking up with the Lilywhites less than two weeks an international team-mate of Preston striker Milutin Osmajic, began his career with home-town club Buducnost, with whom he played Europa League has since had a nomadic career, playing for Sevilla's B team in Spain, Spartak Subotica in Serbia, Waasland-Beveren in Belgium, Rijeka in Croatia, Juarez in Mexico and spent last season on loan at Cartagena in manager Paul Heckingbottom told the club website, external: "We've been really happy with Andy since he joined us out in Spain. He has a great attitude in training, gives his all every day, and he's shown what he can do in the friendlies he's played in."He gives us real pace and power down the left-hand side of the pitch and adds to our options in that area."
Condé Nast Traveler
4 days ago
- Condé Nast Traveler
The Best Things to Do in Dubrovnik, Croatia's Ambling Seaside City
The Old City of Dubrovnik is surrounded by plenty of bays to explore. Julien Duval How many days do you need in Dubrovnik? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron I've met many people who swear by the long weekend approach, feeling that three days is ample to see everything the city has to offer. For me, that wouldn't be quite enough because you'd miss out on the many day trips you can take from here—Ston, Konavle, the Elaphiti Islands, even down to Herceg Novi, Kotor, and Perast in Montenegro. But it really depends on which season you come, of course. Many people visit in the summer for a beach vacation, staying in Lapad or one of the hotels outside the city walls, and only occasionally dipping into the Old Town for the restaurants and museums. Such a rhythm could easily fill one or two weeks—longer still, if the mood takes you. Winter presents an entirely different proposition: the weather can be genuinely challenging, with torrential downpours and storms that feel almost apocalyptic. Yet it's also the city's most tranquil and intimate season. A weekend would be perfectly suited to savoring the atmospheric bars and restaurants, browsing the Christmas markets, and perhaps visiting a museum or two. The Old Town is magical and mostly quiet during this time, and feels like a cozier place to stay than outlying areas. The answer, therefore, depends on which season you come, and what you're in need of. Whether it's in summer's peak or in winter's most laid-back and romantic months, you certainly won't leave disappointed. Is there much to do in Dubrovnik? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron There are enough things to do in Dubrovnik to fill several days, particularly if you're inclined to explore further afield with excursions to the surrounding towns and villages. The Old Town itself can be seen over a couple of leisurely days—it's compact enough so everything of note lies within comfortable walking distance. You'll find a good selection of museums and galleries alongside the city's most significant historical landmarks. From there, the possibilities are endless: take a boat trip to the nearby islands, go hiking around the peninsula, or take a trip to Konavle for wine tasting and traditional village life, and Ston for oysters and medieval walls. Best things to do in Dubrovnik The Old City Walls of Dubrovnik crown the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Julien Duval 1. Walk the Old City Walls Walking around the old city walls is a must-do experience in Dubrovnik. These formidable fortifications rise to an impressive 82 feet in places, testament to the city's strategic importance through the centuries. The 1.25-mile circuit offers a glimpse into the past and breathtaking views over the Old Town and the Adriatic Sea, extending out to Lokrum and the Elaphiti Islands. Wear sensible shoes, take plenty of water (or refill at the old fountain near Pile Gate entrance), and, if you're visiting in summer, go in the early morning (8 a.m.) or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and heat. When you're done, wander around the limestone alleys in the Old Town itself and get lost in the backstreets (it's where all the cool cats hang out, quite literally). Admire the elegant architecture along the Stradun—the city's grand main thoroughfare—before stepping inside the cathedral and Franciscan monastery, home to one of Europe's oldest functioning pharmacies. Cap it all off with a well-earned beer at Buža Bar, dramatically perched just beneath the ancient walls themselves. The views are particularly lovely at sunset. 2. Lokrum Island Regular boats ply the route between the old harbor and Lokrum Island. The scenic ride whisks you from city life to an island nature reserve—perfect for a day's exploring. Check out the Benedictine monastery ruins, swim in the Dead Sea lake, spot the wild peacocks, and see the Iron Throne replica from Game of Thrones before heading back to the old town in time for dinner. Rector's Palace dates back to the 15th century when Dubrovnik was once a part of the Republic of Ragusa. Božidar Gjukić 3. Rector's Palace The Rector's Palace is one of the best museums for learning about Dubrovnik's history, back when it was the Republic of Ragusa. It was here that each elected Rector would take up residence for exactly one month—a tradition of rotating governance that lasted until 1808. This Gothic-Renaissance-Baroque palace served as the nerve centre of the republic: government seat, administrative headquarters, courthouse, prison, and armory all rolled into one. Today, you can meander around its atmospheric rooms, including the Rector's private quarters and bedchamber, as well as the former prison cells—then, if you're lucky, catch a classical concert in its Renaissance atrium. 4. Ston and the Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac Peninsula is renowned for its wine and oysters, making a visit here a great day out. Oysters have been celebrated here since Roman times, and are best eaten raw with a dash of lemon. If you happen to be here in March, the Festival of Oysters is a great way to celebrate the area's fresh produce. You can also visit family-owned vineyards, famous for their Dingač and full-bodied Postup wines, made from Plavac Mali grapes. Be sure to walk the medieval walls that link Ston and Mali Ston. Built as a defense for the Republic of Ragusa and to protect the lucrative salt pans, these walls are now the longest in Europe at 3.1 miles, giving them the nickname 'Europe's Great Wall of China.' Then, if you have time, you can check out the salt works themselves. To reach here, you can either book an organized tour from Dubrovnik, rent a car, or (if you plan on wine-tasting) catch the number 15 bus from the main bus terminal to Ston or Mali Ston (journey time around one hour and 15 minutes).
