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Observer
10 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Observer
A Designer Was Ready for India's Fashion Moment
In June, Kartik Kumra was confronted, for the first time in his life, with a scrum of reporters. His brand, Kartik Research, had just made its runway debut at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a collection of soft-edged clothing infused with the visual language of India. A pair of beige hand-spun pleated linen pants were spruced up with floral embroidery swirling around the ankle of one leg. And a black blazer was transformed with a flash of gold Banarasi silk peeking through the lapel. It just so happened that Kumra's show had taken place in the middle of a season in which India seemed to be on the mood board of the luxury fashion world. Prada sent models down its menswear runway in footwear that closely resembled Kolhapuri sandals. A few days later, at the Louis Vuitton menswear show, the brand's creative director, Pharrell Williams, re-created the ancient Indian game of Snakes and Ladders as a set for his show. After Kumra's show ended, the assembled reporters peppered him with questions. 'What did you think of the LV show?' he recalled them asking during a recent interview. 'What about the Prada show?' It became abundantly clear to Kumra, 25, that India's sartorial choices were being repackaged as trendy. And that his brand had found itself at the center of that moment. Even having a presence at Fashion Week, alongside what he called 'the big guys,' was once unthinkable for Kumra, who started his brand four years ago in his college dorm room as he studied economics at the University of Pennsylvania. At that time, he had no experience in fashion or design. But his brand's ability to reframe Indian crafts in the context of Western fashion has attracted a loyal — or, as Kumra described it, 'sticky' — following and prepared him for the mainstream spotlight. His work has been seen on Kendrick Lamar, Stephen Curry, Brad Pitt, Riz Ahmed, Lewis Hamilton and Paul Mescal. When the brand released a limited run of embroidered Converse sneakers in May, the shoes sold out almost immediately. In 2023, Kumra's brand was a semifinalist for the coveted LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Kartik Research is now stocked in 70 locations around the world, including Mr Porter and Selfridges. Next spring, it will arrive at Harrods in London. Kumra will also introduce a line of womenswear at Bergdorf Goodman in March. 'Next season, India is not going to be the reference for them,' he said, referring to companies like Prada and Louis Vuitton. 'But this is our thing. We built a business on it and we're going to keep doing it.' A few weeks after his show in Paris, at the brand's new brick-and-mortar store in the busy Dimes Square neighborhood in New York City, Kumra was manning the floor. In one corner stood a classic Indian straw daybed. On the wall, there was a painting of Hindu mythology. A live cricket match — India versus England — was streaming on his laptop. A single rack of clothes ran the length of the store. Each garment had made its way through an 'independent universe of small makers,' Kumra said. 'The real experts — the master embroiderers, weavers, printers.' Their work isn't scalable, nor can you find their phone numbers online. To work with them requires building on-the-ground relationships. A white shirt on the rack, for example, was handmade by a man in the state of Gujarat, using what is known as bhujodi weaving. That weaver noticed, during one of Kumra's visits to his workshop, that Kumra was wearing handloom denim pants. 'He was like, 'Oh, let me connect you to my handloom denim guys,'' Kumra said. 'And I went and visited them — they were a couple hours away — and now they make our denim pants.' Piece by piece, Kumra has built a network of artisans who aren't easily accessible. That gives Kumra a leg up on brands that parachute in and wax poetic about Indian craft for a season or two, said Julie Ragolia, a New York-based stylist and consultant who became a mentor to Kumra through a program called Mr Porter Futures. Kumra, who grew up in New Delhi, had a fervent interest in fashion and streetwear as a consumer long before conceiving Kartik Research. Through college and high school, he would resell sneakers. He admired the work of Dries Van Noten, and he was, like so many teenagers, a Supreme enthusiast. He also enjoyed sketching and doodling. When COVID shuttered universities in 2020, Kumra, who had an internship in finance lined up, decided instead to spend his free time in New Delhi putting together a business plan. His mother shuttled him around the country to meet with artisans. Some of the money he earned from reselling sneakers — roughly $5,000 — became the startup capital for what was then Karu MFG — 'karu' is the Sanskrit word for 'artisan,' and 'MFG' is short for 'manufacturing.' He cold-called factories and found one, on the brink of closing as a result of the pandemic, that agreed to create 22 garments for him. 'The look book cost 1,000 bucks — a friend shot it, and we got models for 200 bucks,' he said. 'The location was free, it was 10 minutes away from my house.' Kumra then jumped into the Discord channel of 'Throwing Fits,' a podcast for menswear enthusiasts, to share his designs and solicit feedback. 'I was just really blown away — this young guy was a fan of us, but when we saw his work we were becoming a fan of him,' said one of the podcast's hosts, Lawrence Schlossman. 'I actually remember my first piece of feedback was just like drop the MFG.' By the time Kumra returned to Philadelphia to finish his degree in 2022, he was running a full-blown business. A stylist messaged him one night about one of his cardigans: 'Yo, Kendrick's wearing it.' As in the Pulitzer Prize-winning rapper. That was the first time, in Kumra's recollection, that his friends realized he wasn't lying about having started a brand. As he builds Kartik Research, Kumra is not taking a salary. His mother still helps out, working on the finance and accounting side. It was just in the last year that Kumra hired two designers. In a cheeky acknowledgment of the heightened interest and momentum around Indian fashion, Kumra's own inspirations, and how, he said, work from there could one day be considered 'globally aspirational,' the Kartik Research show in Paris in June was accompanied with a look book. Its title? 'How to Make It in India.' —NYT
Graziadaily
11 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Graziadaily
While I Wait For That Zara Polka Dot Jacket To Return – Here's Other Windbreakers I Rate
Zara is killing it right now. It was only last week I was telling everyone about my quest to find that viral £50 satin lace cami dress, now, I'm frantically refreshing the site to find another item. This time, it's thepolka dot jacket that's been such a hit since launching a few days ago, it's already sold out online. But fear not, friends, as I'm here to tell you that there's still lots of sizes available in multiple stores around the UK. And while you can't buy it directly online from the link I'm about to share (sorry) you can use it to check if there's one in a store near you. If you're not keen for an IRL search, or simply can't face the thought of a queue, you'll also be pleased to know Zara head office have kindly let me know that it will be restocked very shortly. Vague, I know, and believe me, I wish I had an exact date and time it was dropping so I could add it to my basket before the other fashion girls do. 1. Zara Polka Dot Puffer Jacket Again, please don't be annoyed when you click on this link and see the dreaded 'out of stock' sign. Instead, be happy that you can use it for the 'check in-store availability' option where you'll be able to see if there's one to snap up near you IRL. We can basically thank Miu Miufor the revival of technical jackets. Seen on the spring/summer 2025 catwalk, fashion-meets-function zip-up styles were paired with everything from pleated skirts (as seen below) to bloomer micro shorts. And while I won't be wearing the latter, I am fully invested in these sporty jackets that work well juxtaposed with everyday pieces I already have in my wardrobe. Also, given the fact the weather forecast seems to be changing by the minute at the moment, I'm all for a light, throw-on-and-go layer that'll work for when it's hot, but unpredictable. And this is where the Zara style comes in. Not only is it in the print of the season (yes, there's no escaping all things spotty), it's also the perfect slightly oversized shape, and has a drawstring hem along with high funnel neck to keep out windy weather. PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the Miu Miu Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) When it comes to how to style this polka dot windbreakerjacket, fashion people have all agreed it looks best worn zipped up as a top. So this basically solves any getting ready woes on your way to work. I also love how Elena Lenaro (below) has taken on that unlikely outfit formula rule by teaming the zip-up jacket with shorts, heels and a fancy bag. Who knew a sporty jacket could work so well for a dinner date? But if you want to know another reason why everyone is going wild for this jacket, it's also due to the fact it's a co-ord– yes, that's right, you can also get matching polka dot shorts. And we all know the joy of a matching set is that they need little effort to look put together. See how Stacey (below) has worn hers on TikTok with knee-high flat boots? This is a key styling hack when knowing what to wear when it's hot but rainy. While I wait not-so-patiently for the Zara polka dot version to come back online, I wanted to show you some of the other windbreaker styles I rate. And yes, of course it includes that other viral £50 style from Uniqlo that's also selling out super quick. 2. Uniqlo Windproof Blouson Jacket While the off-white style has been most popular with fashion insiders (there's still a few sizes left online, FYI) the black, navy and olive green are also so classic. Water-resistant and wind-proof, it's the lightweight style you'll be grabbing as you leave the house every day from now on. 3. ASOS DESIGN Funnel Neck Sports Shirt Price: $62 Although listed as a shirt, I would say this is very much a jacket and shirt hybrid. The funnel neck and drawstring waist is very similar to the Zara viral style, but I love how it has smarter buttons and a more tailored fit. And it's in the key colours this season – butter yellow + chocolate brown. 4. Ganni Leopard Print Nylon Jacket A different kind of spot, this leopard print Ganni jacket is firmly on my wish list. I fully appreciate the oversized fit on this one, perfect for layering later on in the year. Leopard not your thing? You can also get it in black or khaki. 5. Lululemon Always Effortless Classic-Fit Jacket Quite literally designed for those in-betweeny weather days we've been having, this clever jacket has an air vent at the back so you don't get sweaty, a packable hood in case it rains (it's also water-resistant) and a drawstring waist so you can keep out the wind. Plus, it comes in six different colors – genius. 6. Carter Check Water Resistant Shell Jacket Polka dots not your vibe? Then try checks instead. Grunge '90s style plaid prints were all over the catwalks for spring/summer 2025, so try out the trend with this shell jacket. The water-resistant style will also be wind-proof thanks to the hood, adjustable waist and stretch cuff sleeves. 7. H&M Water-Repellant Popover Jacket Removing the need to have to do it up (I'm all for a lazy item) this pull-over style from H&M in butter yellow is so dreamy. Another wind-proof and water-resistant style, it also has a hood that packs in on itself and comes in another colour, light brown. H&M wins again. 8. Monki Windbreaker Nylon Jacket Made from recycled nylon, this brown jacket is such a nice alternative to classic black. That hood will come in so handy with an unexpected downpour and I love how it looks cinched at the waist with a mini skirt. 9. Moncler Valencay Jacket If you're fully invested in the practical jacket trend and want a style you can love for years, Moncler is the destination to find it. That doesn't mean it has to be your typical everyday colour, though, I've fallen for this blush pink water-resistant style that's made to be super light – ideal to take on the morning commute.
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Etam names Delphine Lebas head of sales France
Delphine Lebas has officially announced on LinkedIn that she has joined French lingerie brand Etam. Lebas, until the end of 2023 in charge of business development and sustainable transformation at family fashion chain Gémo (owned by the Eram group), took on the role of head of sales at Etam in the first half of 2025. After various stints in the retail sector, notably as regional director at Comptoir des Cotonniers and Grand Vision, Lebas joined Petit Bateau in 2015, taking charge among others of the Ile-de-France sales region, and assuming the role of head of strategic projects. In 2021, she was appointed head of CSR for the childrenswear brand owned by the Rocher group. At Etam, Lebas has joined a brand that has recently reshuffled its senior executive team, under the leadership of CEO Marie Schott: Last autumn, Julia Lafont was named head of marketing and communication, while Natacha Jacquier-Laforge took charge of lingerie design. Etam belongs to the eponymous family-owned group, and operates a fleet of nearly 660 monobrand stores, of which 420 in France. The brand stages an annual runway show during Paris Fashion Week, in September, and is close-mouthed about its financial results. According to documents on file, in fiscal 2024 Etam Lingerie generated a revenue of €471 million (compared to €480 million in 2023), with a net loss of €16 million.
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Etam names Delphine Lebas head of sales France
Delphine Lebas has officially announced on LinkedIn that she has joined French lingerie brand Etam. Lebas, until the end of 2023 in charge of business development and sustainable transformation at family fashion chain Gémo (owned by the Eram group), took on the role of head of sales at Etam in the first half of 2025. After various stints in the retail sector, notably as regional director at Comptoir des Cotonniers and Grand Vision, Lebas joined Petit Bateau in 2015, taking charge among others of the Ile-de-France sales region, and assuming the role of head of strategic projects. In 2021, she was appointed head of CSR for the childrenswear brand owned by the Rocher group. At Etam, Lebas has joined a brand that has recently reshuffled its senior executive team, under the leadership of CEO Marie Schott: Last autumn, Julia Lafont was named head of marketing and communication, while Natacha Jacquier-Laforge took charge of lingerie design. Etam belongs to the eponymous family-owned group, and operates a fleet of nearly 660 monobrand stores, of which 420 in France. The brand stages an annual runway show during Paris Fashion Week, in September, and is close-mouthed about its financial results. According to documents on file, in fiscal 2024 Etam Lingerie generated a revenue of €471 million (compared to €480 million in 2023), with a net loss of €16 million.
Hypebeast
a day ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Official Look at the COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS x Nike Air Rejuven8
Name:COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS x Nike Air Rejuven8Colorways:White/Black and Black/WhiteSKUs:IF0364-100 and IF0364-001MSRP:TBCRelease Date:Fall 2025Where to Buy:Dover Street Market Nikecontinues to dip into its expansive footwear archive each season, recontextualizing models with contemporary details. It often leans onCOMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUSto supply an initial burst of energy to these bringbacks, with the duo most recently teasing a revival of theAir Max Dolcefor Spring/Summer 2026. However, before it makes a return, 2008'sAir Rejuven8is ready for a comeback. Previewedduring Paris Fashion Week in January, COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS' take on the Nike Air Rejuven8 sees the sneaker rejuvenated with a revised upper. Flywire cabling is intricately layered atop the upper, which notably sports Swooshes underneath. The CdGH+ wordmark is present at both the heel and sockliner while color options vary from white with black contrast to black with white contrast. At the time of writing, neither COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS, Dover Street Market, nor Nike have indicated when their two colorways of the Air Rejuven8 will be dropping. Stay tuned for updates, including official campaign details, as we expect the sneaker to arrive on shelves by the end of the year via Dover Street Market and select boutiques.
