Latest news with #Piccioli
Fashion United
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion United
Creative direction reshuffle: Does the trust between CEO and creative director have an expiration date?
With Maria Grazia Chiuri's departure from Dior now official, new appointments are anticipated. It seems as though all that is missing is the station master's whistle and the call of 'all aboard' to begin this latest journey towards a new creative direction in luxury fashion. We are witnessing a continuous reshuffling of creative directors; only a few weeks ago, news broke that Pierpaolo Piccioli, after years at the helm of Valentino–eight of these alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, who left the brand in 2016 to join Dior–was moving to Balenciaga (Kering). A year prior, Alessandro Michele took the creative lead at Valentino, after Piccioli's departure in 2024. Michele left Gucci in 2022, subsequently replaced by Sabato De Sarno, who served as the Florentine brand's creative director from 2023 to February 2025, shortly before Demna Gvasalia's appointment. Gvasalia, in turn, vacated the position at Balenciaga, which was then 'assigned' to Piccioli. We'll stop here, but the merry-go-round of appointments in recent months has, of course, been much more extensive. It is perhaps worth remembering the arrival of Dutch designer Duran Lantink as the new permanent creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, perhaps one of the few truly new entries into the Olympus of fashion in recent times. Not that Lantink is a novice; on the contrary, the designer, already shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2019 and winner of this year's Woolmark Prize, has designed pieces for artists such as Beyonce, Doja Cat, Paris Hilton, Billie Eilish, and Solange. Let's just say he's a fresher name. Sabato De Sarno Credits: Courtesy of Gucci, ph Riccardo Raspa The question that arises at this moment, however, is not so much whether in fashion, as in cinema, there is a famous 'inner circle' of names that move from one label to another yet always remain in the spotlight at one brand or another, but how much this sometimes frantic alternation can really contribute to the growth of brands. Or whether it contributes to the loss of the label's DNA and the partial recycling of loyal customers (who no longer recognise themselves in the brand), rather than a real expansion of the target audience, which is what, hopefully, the top management of the brands that move creative directors from one brand to another are aiming for. There is no shortage of choice, given that in LVMH's fashion and leather goods division alone, there are Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine, Loewe, Kenzo, Givenchy, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Marc Jacobs, Berluti, Loro Piana, Rimowa and Patou; while Kering today has, in the fashion segment, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, McQueen and Brioni. Kering deputy CEO: 'There must be mutual trust between CEO and creative director' In this regard, on May 22 in Milan, during the Changemakers in luxury fashion meeting, organised by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and Zalando, Francesca Bellettini, Kering's deputy CEO, stressed: 'There must be mutual trust between the CEO and creative director, but each must have their role with mutual respect.' In complex times like the ones luxury is going through, brands must be true to their DNA and 'generate appeal and desirability thanks to creative directors'. But this trust, instead of consolidating over time, season after season, seems undermined in a short time and influenced by a turnover that, these days, has to do with the crisis, weak demand and the complicated geopolitical situation. Even the authenticity, transparency and coherence demanded by consumers and mentioned just two days ago by Matteo Lunelli, president of Altagamma, during the foundation's shareholders' meeting, do not always seem to be at the top of the list of priorities for brands. Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Balenciaga Credits: Courtesy of Kering and Balenciaga, ph David Sims Demna Credits: Courtesy of Kering This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Fashion Network
5 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
After nine years at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri moves on
The wave of leadership changes across luxury fashion houses continues. Christian Dior Couture has officially announced the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri, its artistic director for women's collections. The news comes just one day after Dior 's latest runway show in Rome, ending months of speculation about her planned exit. Since taking the reins in July 2016, the Italian designer has led Dior's women's ready-to-wear, haute couture, and accessories lines. Known for her feminist perspective, Chiuri played a key role in revitalizing the flagship LVMH brand. Between 2018 and 2023, Dior's revenue quadrupled under her direction. This announcement follows Dior's earlier confirmation in January of the exit of British designer Kim Jones, who led Dior Men for seven years. Jonathan Anderson, formerly creative director at Loewe, another LVMH label, replaced him in April. Earlier this year, speculation circulated that the Irish designer might also assume creative leadership of Dior's women's lines. Chiuri's next professional chapter remains unclear. She was previously rumored to be in discussions to lead Fendi 's women's collections, though those talks now appear unlikely to move forward. Born to a seamstress who ran a small atelier, Chiuri has long been drawn to fashion. Now 61, she studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome and began her career at Fendi, an LVMH brand, in 1989. There, she focused on handbag design and contributed to creating the iconic Baguette—one of the defining 'it bags' of the 1990s. Chiuri's career took off when she partnered with longtime collaborator Pierpaolo Piccioli. The pair caught the eye of Valentino Garavani and, in 1999, were entrusted with designing accessories for Valentino. Following the brand's acquisition by investment firm Permira in 2007 and the retirement of its founder, Chiuri and Piccioli stepped into the roles of co-creative directors for accessories. By late 2008, they were promoted to oversee all of Valentino's fashion collections. Their tenure saw the rise of the Rockstud pump, which became a global sensation. Under their leadership, Valentino experienced renewed energy, capturing the attention of younger consumers and gaining critical acclaim. When Qatari investment firm Mayhoola acquired the brand in 2012, Chiuri and Piccioli continued modernizing the house. By 2015, Valentino was nearing €1 billion in annual revenue. In 2016, Chiuri made history as the first woman appointed as artistic director of Dior. From her debut, she used fashion as a vehicle for feminist expression. Her runway shows regularly featured bold slogans such as 'We Should All Be Feminists' and 'Sisterhood Is Powerful.' While honoring Dior's storied heritage, Chiuri infused the brand with a contemporary edge, designing refined, wearable pieces that resonated with younger audiences. As she explained after her first show, her mission was 'to be attuned to the world and to create fashion that reflects today's women. Fashion that supports them through change, helping them break free from stereotypes.' In 2019, Chiuri received the title of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor—one of several accolades that mark her influential career.
Fashion Network
5 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
After nine years at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri moves on
Born to a seamstress who ran a small atelier, Chiuri has long been drawn to fashion. Now 61, she studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome and began her career at Fendi, an LVMH brand, in 1989. There, she focused on handbag design and contributed to creating the iconic Baguette—one of the defining 'it bags' of the 1990s. Chiuri's career took off when she partnered with longtime collaborator Pierpaolo Piccioli. The pair caught the eye of Valentino Garavani and, in 1999, were entrusted with designing accessories for Valentino. Following the brand's acquisition by investment firm Permira in 2007 and the retirement of its founder, Chiuri and Piccioli stepped into the roles of co-creative directors for accessories. By late 2008, they were promoted to oversee all of Valentino's fashion collections. Their tenure saw the rise of the Rockstud pump, which became a global sensation. Under their leadership, Valentino experienced renewed energy, capturing the attention of younger consumers and gaining critical acclaim. When Qatari investment firm Mayhoola acquired the brand in 2012, Chiuri and Piccioli continued modernizing the house. By 2015, Valentino was nearing €1 billion in annual revenue. In 2016, Chiuri made history as the first woman appointed as artistic director of Dior. From her debut, she used fashion as a vehicle for feminist expression. Her runway shows regularly featured bold slogans such as 'We Should All Be Feminists' and 'Sisterhood Is Powerful.' While honoring Dior's storied heritage, Chiuri infused the brand with a contemporary edge, designing refined, wearable pieces that resonated with younger audiences. As she explained after her first show, her mission was 'to be attuned to the world and to create fashion that reflects today's women. Fashion that supports them through change, helping them break free from stereotypes.' In 2019, Chiuri received the title of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor—one of several accolades that mark her influential career.
Fashion Network
5 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
After nine years at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri moves on
Born to a seamstress who ran a small atelier, Chiuri has long been drawn to fashion. Now 61, she studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome and began her career at Fendi, an LVMH brand, in 1989. There, she focused on handbag design and contributed to creating the iconic Baguette—one of the defining 'it bags' of the 1990s. Chiuri's career took off when she partnered with longtime collaborator Pierpaolo Piccioli. The pair caught the eye of Valentino Garavani and, in 1999, were entrusted with designing accessories for Valentino. Following the brand's acquisition by investment firm Permira in 2007 and the retirement of its founder, Chiuri and Piccioli stepped into the roles of co-creative directors for accessories. By late 2008, they were promoted to oversee all of Valentino's fashion collections. Their tenure saw the rise of the Rockstud pump, which became a global sensation. Under their leadership, Valentino experienced renewed energy, capturing the attention of younger consumers and gaining critical acclaim. When Qatari investment firm Mayhoola acquired the brand in 2012, Chiuri and Piccioli continued modernizing the house. By 2015, Valentino was nearing €1 billion in annual revenue. In 2016, Chiuri made history as the first woman appointed as artistic director of Dior. From her debut, she used fashion as a vehicle for feminist expression. Her runway shows regularly featured bold slogans such as 'We Should All Be Feminists' and 'Sisterhood Is Powerful.' While honoring Dior's storied heritage, Chiuri infused the brand with a contemporary edge, designing refined, wearable pieces that resonated with younger audiences. As she explained after her first show, her mission was 'to be attuned to the world and to create fashion that reflects today's women. Fashion that supports them through change, helping them break free from stereotypes.' In 2019, Chiuri received the title of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor—one of several accolades that mark her influential career.
Hypebeast
23-05-2025
- Business
- Hypebeast
Balenciaga Appoints Pierpaolo Piccioli & Nike Announces US Price Hikes in This Week's Top Fashion News
Below, Hypebeast has rounded up the top fashion stories of the week so you can stay up to date on trends in the industry. On May 19, former Valentino designerPierpaolo Piccioliwas officially namedBalenciaga's new creative director. Set to begin his role on July 10, the designer's debut collection for theKering-owned brand will be revealed later in October. In a statement, Piccioli said, 'Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way. In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the House's aesthetic values. What I am receiving is a brand full of possibilities that is incredibly fascinating.' In March of last year, Piccioli left Valentino after 25 years at the Italian fashion house, making his Fall 2024 collection his final output for Valentino. The design is poised to replaceDemna, who's set to reveal his final couture collection for Balenciaga this July before heading toGucci. Nikewill be raising its retail prices in the US come June, later, increasing wholesale prices in July, according to a new report from Complex. Nike's retail partners were said to have been informed about the news earlier in the week, as the company now joins industry leaders reshaping their pricing strategy in the face of tariff uncertainties. The retail price adjustments are noted as ranging from $2 USD to $10 USD, with exclusions in place for 'Jordan apparel and accessories, all kids' footwear and apparel, and all footwear under $100,' and Air Force 1s, according to Complex's report. With Nike's fiscal year concluding on May 31, the updated pricing strategy is set to debut with its new fiscal year starting on June 1. For the first time since 2020,Chanel's sales have slipped 4.3% to $18.7 billion USD, and operating profits declined 30% to $4.5 billion USD in fiscal year 2025. Additionally, the French luxury company saw. In response, Chanel is re-evaluating the price hikes it recently implemented, specifically on its classic handbags. CFO Philippe Blondiaux shared that despite the decline in sales Chanel remains healthy as it gears up for a rebrand under the artistic direction of Blazy. Blondiaux shared more, saying, 'The average pricing effect we had for fashion was 3% last year, which I'm sure you will agree was perfectly in line with global inflation, if not less than that. We intend to maintain more or less the same policy, which is to monitor our prices in line with global inflation in 2025.' In a new partnership withGentle MonsterandWarby Parker, Google is pushing its AI Smart Eyewear expansion with a design-forward twist, as revealed at its I/O 2025 conference. Shahram Izadi, General Manager and Vice President, Google XR, highlighted the sophistication and essential design features of both brands as it readies its revamped Android XR products. The announcement rivals Meta's smart glasses partnership with Ray-Ban, which has grown in popularity. As of the time of writing, Google has not confirmed release dates or price points for future releases with Warby Parker and Gentle Monster. Lemairehas opened its first boutique in China, located in Chengdu's Taikoo Li district. Blending contemporary tranquility and cultural heritage, F.O.G. Architecture designed a 140-square-meter space. The entryway, adorned with potted plants housed in traditional Sichuan sauce jars, echoes the under-eaves spaces of classical Chinese architecture, offering visitors a ritualistic passage into the store's immersive environment. With local bamboo serving as a recurring motif throughout the space, the store boasts bamboo flooring and curtains, and stone textures that mimic woven bamboo. Finally, traditional Sichuan crafts are thoughtfully integrated, showcasing collaborative efforts between the architects, local artists, and regional artisans. VF Corporation, parent toThe North Face,Vans, andTimberland, shared its fourth quarter fiscal 2025 financial report this week, indicating that its net revenue for the quarter dipped to $2.1 billion USD. In response, VFC's share price went from closing at $14.43 USD on Tuesday to closing at $12.15 USD today, a 15.80% drop in value. However, The North Face brought in $834.5 million USD, a 2% increase from its numbers at this time last year, and Timberland reported a 10% increase to $376 million USD in net revenue. Vans and Dickies, are the culprit of the conglomerate's losses, with the former declining 22% to $492.6 million USD and the latter dropping 14% to a total of $139.3 million USD in net revenue. Moving forward, VF Corp has identified that it is well-positioned to handle the turbulence of tariffs with accelerated distribution during the 90-day pause, optimizing sourcing, and more strategies.
