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Japan Today
3 days ago
- Japan Today
Explore Tokushima: Nature, culture and cuisine on Japan's untouched coast
By Elizabeth Sok Situated on the eastern side of Shikoku Island, Tokushima Prefecture abounds in natural beauty, rich cultural history and plenty of local dishes to savor. From rafting down the Yoshino River to crossing one of the country's most unique vine bridges, Tokushima offers awe-inspiring escapes from city life. If you're looking to take home something memorable from your trip, Naruto City's ceramics' earthy tones and textures are a great place to start. Resting on the coast usually means access to the bounties of the sea and Tokushima is no different with its famed sea bream. Despite being on less-traveled Shikoku, Tokushima is easy to access. Arrive at Tokushima Awaodori Airport from Tokyo in under 90 minutes or take a JR highway bus from JR Osaka station in under two and a half hours. But, you may want to consider the scenic route on the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway that connects Hyogo and Tokushima Prefectures across the Akashi and Naruto Straits. Outdoor adventures in Tokushima Traverse one of the Iya Valley's three historic vine bridges. Image: thanyarat07/iStock Understandably, the Naruto Straits off of Tokushima are one of the top natural sights in the prefecture with their captivating whirlpools. But, head inland and you'll discover plenty more in the region's valleys and rivers. Iya Valley Located in the heart of Shikoku, this remote mountainous valley includes the beautiful Iyakei Gorge, several hot spring areas and vine bridges. The Iya Valley is roughly 60 km long and is bordered by Mount Tsurugi, the second tallest mountain in Western Japan. Flowing down from the mountain is the Iya River which eventually leads to the Iyakei Gorge, with its steep slopes showcasing pristine forests that are especially picturesque during the fall. The valley also features suspension bridges constructed from mountain vines that span across the Iya River. At 45 meters in length, the Kazurabashi bridge, which is the longest and most popular of the bridges, grants spectacular views of the valley. Yoshino River rafting Hold on tight as you raft down Japan's wildest river. Image: emi suga/Pixta Experience some of Japan's wildest whitewater rafting on the Yoshino River. Flowing from Kochi Prefecture into Tokushima, the Yoshino River is considered to be the longest river in the Shikoku region at 194 km in length. The river is filled with thrilling rapids, arguably the best in Japan and renowned worldwide, and boasts clear water and epic views along its route. There are several tour operators offering half and one-day rafting packages, including those that are family-friendly and English speaking. And for those seeking more adventurous options, try the canyoning experiences, with some featuring a 40-meter waterfall drop. Cultural experiences unique to Tokushima Otani-yaki awaits in a kiln. Image: nagare/Pixta Tokushima has a rich cultural history stretching back centuries. From pottery and performance to creating dyes from indigenous Japanese plants, the prefecture has more than enough opportunities to steep yourself in local traditions. Otani-yaki pottery Head to Naruto City for the chance to take home one of the most coveted souvenirs of Tokushima: pottery. Otani-yaki, or Otani ware, is the representative pottery of the area. It is made of Hagiwara clay, a specialty of the prefecture, that is popular for its simplicity and elegant luster. Dark brown pieces are the most common, although you can also obtain pieces in silver and gray. One unusual feature of this pottery is that the artisans utilize a technique called nerokuro which entails lying beneath the pottery wheel and kicking it. Using this technique, craftsmen make large jugs, as sizable as an adult, which are fired in some of Japan's biggest climbing kilns. Awa odori dance festival Join over a million visitors to Tokushima City's annual Awa Odori Festival. Image: papilio/Pixta Perhaps Tokushima's most famous cultural treasure is the Awa Odori Dance. Although origin stories of the dance vary, most agree that it began about 400 years ago. Taking place in August as part of the Awa Odori Festival, with exact dates varying from city to city across the prefecture, this dance is now a well-known example of Japanese traditional dance arts. Every year, more than a million people descend on Tokushima City to watch and join in on the matsuri (festival). From street stalls to cordoned-off major streets, the city is transformed for the festival to a lively center of traditional culture that is absolutely worth a special trip. If you visit outside of the matsuri days, head to the Awa Odori Kaikan in downtown Tokushima where dance troupes perform the Awa Odori all year round. Indigo dyeing in Udatsu Take a stroll through the historical Udatsu district and try your hand at indigo dyeing. Image: Q2Photo/Pixta Besides its pottery and dance, Tokushima is also known nationwide for being one of the top producers of natural indigo dye. Indigo dyeing, or aizome, has been practiced in Tokushima for over 800 years thanks to the irrigation of the Yoshino River which makes the northern part of the prefecture fertile ground for the Japanese indigo plant. The high quality dye produced here is called awa-ai and is highly regarded as an indigenous ink brand. While in Tokushima, why not try your hand at dyeing? At the Ai no Yakata Historical Museum, only a 40-minute bus ride from JR Tokushima Station, you can choose your fabric and dye and create your own unique piece in a workshop led by museum staff. Must try Tokushima cuisine Grilled is the best way to savor Awa odori chicken's rich umami flavor. Image: tachan/Pixta Tokushima's diverse culinary landscape will continually whet your appetite whether you favor poultry, noodles or seafood. Awa odori chicken One of your first foodie stops in the prefecture should be chicken. In particular, sink your teeth into Tokushima's Awa odori chicken, named after the famous dance. These chickens, a crossbreed of Awa-Jidori and White Plymouth Rock, are known for being low-fat with an almost sweet taste that is also high in umami. Raised for over 75 days, as per premium jidori chicken regulations, the meat is a distinctive reddish color and maintains a pleasing texture. One of the most popular ways to enjoy this dish is grilled since the smokiness complements the meat's flavor. Try it at Tosute, a quick 10-minute walk from JR Tokushima station, which offers mouth-watering grilled Awa odori chicken and can accommodate groups. Tarai udon in Awa City Awa City is home to tarai udon. Image: bluet/Pixta Tarai udon, a specialty of Awa City, is known for its firm noodles, served in a wooden tub with savory dashi broth. With solid wheat production stretching back centuries, Awa's hand-pulled freshly cooked noodles with dashi (fish-based broth) have long been popular, especially with local forestry workers. In the late Edo period, lumberjacks would cook the udon on makeshift stoves in the woods with a fresh fish broth, gathering around a tarai, a large wooden tub, to enjoy their meal. The broth varies but traditionally includes jinzoku river fish and sardines. Enjoy this dish in restaurants overlooking the Miyagawauchidani River to take in the view alongside the meal. Naruto-dai sea bream If you're in Tokushima in the spring, keep an eye out for sakura-tinted sea bream. Image: プロモリンク/Pixta If you're feeling like eating seafood while in Tokushima, look no further than the Naruto dai (Naruto sea bream). Caught in the rapid-moving Naruto Strait, these fish have a remarkably firm flesh born of their well-developed muscles. This results in a fresh and firm bite that makes these sea bream known across the country for their exceptional quality. Just before the Naruto Dai spawns in spring, it achieves a particularly pleasing fat balance and delicate taste as well as a vivid pink flesh. These so-called 'Sakura sea bream' are thus considered to be at their peak in March and April. To best enjoy Naruto Dai, try it as sashimi in nearby Naruto City! More Tokushima highlights Enjoy the night view from the top of Mount Bizan. Image: Yama/Pixta Still looking for ideas? Add these spots to your Tokushima itinerary. Anan coast Dive into the beautiful marine vistas and catch some of the best waves in the country. Dive into the beautiful marine vistas and catch some of the best waves in the country. Mount Bizan Take in the panoramic night views overlooking Tokushima City. Take in the panoramic night views overlooking Tokushima City. Tokushima ramen Enjoy a hearty bowl of the prefectural soul food, with three types of broth and a raw egg topping. © Japan Today
4 days ago
- Entertainment
From Harajuku to Shibuya: Crowds and Youth Culture in the Yamanote's West
A Walk around the Yamanote Line Harajuku thrives as a vibrant Tokyo epicenter of youth culture, bursting with fashion, creativity, and rebellion. Just a short walk away, Shibuya undergoes a historic transformation—an unprecedented urban redevelopment reshaping the skyline and the future of one of the world's busiest, most trendsetting intersections. At the Center of Japan's Youth Fashion The last stretch of my walk around the Yamanote Line starts in Harajuku, arguably Tokyo's foremost youth playground. Little has changed since 1992, when I moved to Japan. The only glaring exception is the station building. Built in 1924, it was the city's oldest wooden station. It survived earthquakes, fires, and the Pacific War fire-bombings, but it proved powerless against redevelopment. Apparently, it did not meet fire-resistance standards. The stations on the Yamanote line stations loop. (© Pixta) The new building, completed in 2020, is all glass and straight lines. It is bigger, more spacious, and better equipped to handle the endless human traffic arriving at one of Tokyo's more popular tourist destinations. It is also a further contribution to the trivialization of Tokyo's look. Luckily, for once, cultural conservation and financial interests have reached a compromise: The old building will be reassembled as part of a new commercial facility scheduled to be completed in 2026. The new Harajuku Station is a far cry from the much-loved wooden building that preceded it. (© Gianni Simone) Thirty years ago, I spent most Sundays in the area's Hokōsha Tengoku, or Pedestrian Paradise. Part of Omotesandō Avenue was closed to car traffic, and indie rock bands, break-dancers, and street performers used the free space to jam, dance, and gather crowds. It was a kind of wild, spontaneous cultural festival, and a rare case of unfiltered creative expression in Tokyo. Needless to say, it was suspended in 1998. Today, weekend pedestrian-only zones—with a decidedly more consumerist tone—can be found in Ginza, Shinjuku, and Akihabara. The survivors of the Harajuku scene can be found at the entrance to Yoyogi Park, where leather-clad biker wannabes and their beehive-haired companions shake their behinds to the rhythms of original 1950s rock and roll—and their Japanese aural copies—while being stared at by a growing crowd of foreign tourists. One of them, a grizzled 60-something lothario, occasionally pauses to catch his breath, then starts again, probably dreaming of Route 66, American blue jeans, and holidays in Graceland, USA. To be sure, consumerism is alive and well in Harajuku, and there are plenty of chain stores. Yet, whereas youngsters in other countries follow the lead of large chains, many teenagers in Tokyo set their own fashion courses. Rather than being the followers, they create the trends, borrowing from and altering traditional and Western styles. The deeper one dives into the maze of narrow backstreets, the more one discovers self-contained enclaves, like the one just south of tacky, tourist-choked Takeshita Street. The elegant Brahms Path, complete with a bust of the German composer and a couple of stone lions, features a mix of restaurants and boutiques. Nearby, Mozart Street, adorned with a relief portrait of the young musical genius, boasts hair stylists galore (I count five or six in a 50-meter stretch). This alley stands out for its European-inspired architecture and a fountain at its center—hence its alternate name, Fountain Street. Not far from the madding Harajuku crowd, Fountain Street is a quiet alley with a European touch. (© Gianni Simone) In Japan, sacred and profane often go hand in hand. When Meiji Jingū, Tokyo's most important Shintō shrine, was built in 1920, Omotesandō became the main approach to the shrine. However, like similar pilgrimage routes around Japan, it attracted vendors of all kinds. Then, after the Pacific War, the area now known as Yoyogi Park became a US military housing complex called Washington Heights, leading to many Western-style facilities and stores lining the area. Today, Omotesandō competes with Ginza for the largest number of designer stores. Skyscrapers and Swarms of Humanity Heading south from Harajuku, I pass the Tange Kenzō–designed Yoyogi National Gymnasium, built for the 1964 Summer Olympics after Washington Heights was returned to Japanese control. In 1963, NHK moved its headquarters next to the gymnasium site in order to stay closer to the Olympic action. The move had a considerable influence on our next destination, Shibuya, as other related businesses—publishers, video companies, and more—followed. In 1968, Seibu opened a department store near Shibuya station, followed in 1973 by Shibuya Parco. The Yoyogi National Gymnasium is one of the most visually striking mementos of the 1964 Olympics. (© Gianni Simone) Located in Yoyogi Park, this building housed the Dutch athletes during the 1964 Olympics. (© Gianni Simone) With its bright and glamorous image, Shibuya Parco, in turn, had a big impact because it completely redefined what a shopping center could be. By mixing retail with art galleries, theaters, and event spaces, and embracing street fashion, it helped establish Shibuya as a leading youth culture center. When I finally arrive in Shibuya, the last stop on my circular pilgrimage, I can barely recognize the place. At first glance, the area around the station looks like a scene from the H. G. Wells classic The War of the Worlds, with red-and-white striped Martian machines patrolling a devastated landscape. Fortunately, they are just some of the cranes that perpetually dot Tokyo's skyline. The area around Shibuya Station has become a huge construction site. (© Gianni Simone) For the last few years, Shibuya has been a massive construction site. The building over the station, which housed a Tōkyū department store, is temporarily gone, while across what used to be the bus terminal now stands the new Tōkyū Plaza. The moyai statue—a stone face resembling the Moai figures on Easter Island that used to compete with Hachikō in popularity as a meeting point—now sits all alone, nearly forgotten amid the chaos. The moyai statue in Shibuya, once a popular meeting spot, now sits all alone. (© Gianni Simone) During my walks around the Yamanote Line, I witnessed the change taking place in Tokyo in many subtle and major ways, but nothing compares to what is happening here. Now the statue of the loyal dog is literally surrounded by new high-rises, the visually striking symbol of Shibuya's once-in-a-century urban redevelopment. Nonbei Yokochō is one of the few spots in Shibuya that has survived redevelopment. (© Gianni Simone) The recent changes have also helped redefine Shibuya's character. While young people are still shopping at Parco and Shibuya 109, many of the new establishments now cater to older demographics. Many of the shops in Hikarie and Scramble Square, for instance, are geared to a more mature clientele. Then there's the IT crowd, as digital companies are increasingly moving to the area. And let's not forget the locals. Shibuya's residents usually prefer to keep to the district's quieter corners, far from the madding crowd, but in the fall come out of their posh homes to take part in the local Konnō Hachiman Shrine Festival. To be sure, all those old mikoshi (portable shrines) parading in front of Shibuya 109 make for a rather surreal scene, but Tokyo is built on such contrasts. Mission accomplished, I take refuge in a second-floor café from where I can see the world-famous scramble crossing. The red and green lights alternate every 60 seconds. It's a seemingly short wait, fitting for a quick-paced city like Tokyo. However, in those short 60 seconds, up to 2,000 people gather around the crossing. Then the walk signals turn green again (or blue, as the Japanese say), and everybody steps forward, leaving the safety of the sidewalk and heading into the surging human waves coming from every direction. You steel yourself for the drama ahead. You can almost see people bouncing off each other. But nothing happens. No swearing, no broken bones. Miraculously, everyone silently glides through the human maelstrom, looking straight ahead past each other—through each other—toward their destination. It's a strange scene. Then again, Shibuya—indeed, Tokyo as a whole—is a place where different people coexist without ever merging. Rather than blending together, they seem to coexist side by side. This is Tokyo in a nutshell: millions of people sharing the huge city's cramped spaces every day, yet rarely interacting in a meaningful way. They don't talk to strangers unless they have to. They never hug. And yet, they come—from all over Japan and the world—drawn by the city's bright lights. (Originally written in English. Banner photo: Tourists on rental go-karts wait for the crowds to finish traversing Shibuya's scramble crossing. © Gianni Simone.)
5 days ago
- Health
Survey Finds Japan's Favorite Teas
Japan Data Sencha (steamed green tea) was the most popular Japanese tea according to a recent survey, ahead of mugicha and hōjicha. In April, the Tokyo market research firm Cross Marketing surveyed 1,100 people in Japan aged 20 to 69 about their tea habits. The results showed that sencha (steamed green tea) was the most common type of Japanese tea consumed on a daily basis, selected by 70.4% of respondents, including over 60% of those in their twenties and over 80% of those in their sixties. Mugicha (roasted barley tea) ranked second at 47.0%, followed by hōjicha (roasted green tea) at 36.9% and genmaicha (green tea blended with roasted brown rice) at 21.5%. Matcha (powdered green tea), perhaps the most iconic of Japanese teas, was selected by just 9.4%. The survey divided standard green tea into three varieties: sencha; fukamushi sencha, which is steamed for longer than ordinary sencha; and gyokuro, which has a distinctive flavor due to the buds being grown under cover to block out direct sunlight. The most common way of drinking tea was 'plastic bottles' at 42.7%, followed by 'tea bags' at 33.8%. Only a quarter (26.8%) of respondents said that they brew tea themselves from tea leaves. Even among those in their sixties, who lived through times when it was the norm, just 43.2% said they brew their own tea. It seems that bottled tea has become the new standard. The top three impressions of Japanese tea were 'it's healthy because of the catechin' at 37.8%, 'it's essential for meals' at 33.3%, and 'it's suitable for many occasions because it's not sweet' at 28.3%, demonstrating that Japanese tea is valued for its health benefits as well as versatility. (© Pixta) (Translated from Japanese. Banner photo © Pixta.)
6 days ago
- General
Getting to Know the Many Different Faces of Japanese Fu
A versatile ingredient, fu made from wheat gluten appears in a vast array of Japanese cuisine, bolstering meals, brightening dishes, or providing a hearty snack. Below are some of the many different types and uses of fu . Temari-fu Shaped like traditional embroidered temari balls, this type of yaki-fu (baked or roasted fu ) provides a festive addition to seasonal and celebratory dishes, particularly soups. (© Pixta) Awa-fu A type of nama-fu (boiled or steamed fu ) containing millet flour. (© Pixta) Nama-fu dengaku Nama-fu like awa-fu or varieties containing mochi and other types of starchy flour that are served with a coating of sweetened miso paste. (© Pixta) Fu-manjū Steamed dumplings made with nama-fu , fragrant yomogi (mugwort), and stuffed with adzuki paste or other sweet fillings. (© Pixta) Komachi-fu Small yaki-fu used in soups, stews, and as garnish. (© Pixta) (© Pixta) Hana-fu Yaki-fu formed like colorful flowers. It is often used to brighten or add a seasonal touch to dishes. (© Pixta) Kuruma-fu A wheel-shaped yaki-fu . As it retains its chewiness in liquids, it is used in soups and simmered dishes or is soaked in sweet or savory marinades. A popular recipe resembling French toast features grilled kuruma-fu slathered in syrup and toppings like fresh fruit. (© Pixta) (© Pixta) Ita-fu A flat-type of yaki-fu used in soups and as a meat substitute in stir-fried and simmered dishes. (© Pixta) Uzumaki-fu A small, rolled yaki-fu used to add a decorative and chewy element to soups, broths, and other dishes. (© Pixta) (© Pixta) Chōji-fu A thick, rectangular yaki-fu from Shiga Prefecture. It features as the main or minor ingredient in a variety of cooking, including shōjin ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine). (© Pixta) Abura-fu An oblong, deep-fried fu associated with northern Miyagi Prefecture. It features in the dish abura-fu don , in which it is simmered in broth with other ingredients and served over rice. (© Pixta) (Originally published in Japanese. Banner photo © Pixta.)
6 days ago
- Business
Japan Posts Record High Current Account Surplus of ¥30 Trillion
Japan Data Japan's primary income, earned from overseas investment, was the main factor for its record high current account surplus in fiscal 2024, spurred on by the weak yen. Preliminary balance of payments statistics for fiscal 2024 released on May 12 by Japan's Ministry of Finance show that Japan posted a surplus of ¥30.4 trillion, the largest of its kind since comparable data first became available in fiscal 1985. This current account balance reflects not only Japan's overseas trade in goods and services but also its revenue from foreign investments. For its balance of trade, calculated as the difference between imports and exports, Japan posted a deficit of ¥4 trillion, marking the fourth consecutive annual deficit. While exports of automobiles and equipment for manufacturing semiconductors rose, there were also increases in imports of personal computers and smartphones. Meanwhile, Japan's primary income balance, which reflects overseas revenue from interest and dividend payments, rose by 11.7% over the previous year, for a surplus of ¥41.7 trillion. This result, boosted in part by the weaker yen, marks the fourth consecutive record annual surplus. The balance on services was a deficit of ¥2.6 trillion in fiscal 2024, while the digital sector, which includes internet advertising, had a record deficit of ¥7.0 trillion. In contrast, the travel industry posted a record trade surplus of ¥6.7 trillion, driven by a significant increase in foreign tourists to Japan. (Translated from Japanese. Banner photo © Pixta.)
