a day ago
13 Must-Visit Food Spots in Montréal
It's the place for poutine, smoked meat and bagels, but Montréal is more than that. (But definitely don't skip those.) It's home to a growing list of top-notch restaurants and eateries and no matter how many times I visit, I probably won't get to them all. But I do love a challenge. As one of Canada's best food cities, I paid a quick visit with a little detour to Québec City to see if the good eating is province-wide (spoiler: it is.)
Even if it's your first time or 100th time in Montréal, start by finding yourself an un-touristy tour guide to take you on a food tour of Montréal institutions and lesser-known gems. We did a walking food tour with Spade & Palacio and our guide, Danny, was a gem and excellent storyteller.
First up, Danny took us took us to a less touristy spot, Resto Los Planes which is known for homestyle Salvadorian food like fresh cornmeal pupusas — choose from a list that includes: pork and cheese, cheese and beans, chicken, and some tasty vegetarian options (don't forget a generous pour of their homemade tomato sauce) — and wash it down with a refreshing horchata.
This family-run restaurant serves up generous portions that are budget-friendly. It's also the kind of neighbourhood place where you feel like a local in-the-know just by being there.
Next we popped into long-time Montréal establishment, Alati-Caserta bakery, an Italian hotspot opened by Vittorio and his wife Maria back in 1968. Now over 55 years later, their son Marco and his wife Linda have taken over the family business and have kept the old-school Italian bakery charm. The shop makes 30 different types of cannoli alone! Some flavours included salted caramel, strawberry, Skor and more.
I CANNOLI imagine how much work it must be. Cue: applause.
Then we hit the popular Jean-Talon market - a true local food-lover's paradise. Danny shared stories of Montréal producers and makers — like the two brothers who became accidental ice cream makers — while we tasted a variety of bites at the popular market, including cured meats, fresh cheese, gelato, and smoked fish. If you want a lot of options within very few steps of each other; this is the place for you.
Our final stop on the walking tour was État de choc, a store for those who love the good stuff and hard-to-find bean-to-bar options. Attention: this is for chocolate lovers! They make their own bars and decadent spreads and carry a vast selection of chocolate bars from all over the world. Maple, miso, and toasted rice is an International Chocolate Award winner as is Chili Corn with dark chocolate. Don't come in here looking for your standard grocery store chocolate bar because you'll make a fool of yourself.
Having trained extensively for back-to-back meals, I got ready for my first of several fancy-ish meals after the food tour. The Michelin Guide graced Québec during my visit and blessed several Montréal and Québec City restaurants with stars and recommendations that got eager eaters online to snag reservations as quickly as they could.
We started our Michelin tour at Mastard. For a reasonably-priced five-course tasting menu at $90 per person, Mastard delivers a meal full of locally-sourced ingredients in an intimate room. It's fine dining food and service without the typical fine dining price. One of the first bites of the meal set the tone for the creativity that would follow: a bite-size cube of dense spice cake with a hint of black garlic and feather-light blanket of grated Québec cheese.
Ok, but if you feel like getting splurge-y… and you lean towards a lively room of just 30 people, Le Mousso and its ever-changing 10-course $250 per person tasting menu can be described as hyper local, seasonal, creative, and adventurous. If you're an open-minded eater and like an element of surprise, you'll do just fine with the one-word menu descriptions like: crab, lobster, beef, lamb.
Sea urchin fell under dessert and did I think I would like it? I was unsure. But did I actually like the custardy dessert with a hint of maple syrup? I sure did.
It's hard to overlook a Montréal staple and the Michelin Guide couldn't ignore it either. They bestowed a recommendation to Schwartz's Deli where $16 will get you a hefty smoked meat sandwich. Pro tip: head to the takeout counter for faster service.
Fine dining in this economy? Get good food and attentive service at almost student prices. Restaurant de l'ITHQ is run by students at Montréal's culinary school. They're cooking in the kitchen and serving you in the dining room. Save a few bucks by indulging in their Tuesday or Wednesday promotion where $62 gets you a 3-course meal. It's not student food; it's food by the next generation of chefs and restauranteurs.
If you've ever been late to meet friends and used the excuse, 'I couldn't find the door! Where is the sign?' It's a legit excuse at The Cloakroom Bar. Recognized as one of Canada's top bars and even in North America, this hidden cocktail bar has graced many 'best of' lists. With only 25 seats, they famously don't have a sign (the entrance is hidden next to a men's suit store in case you feel like killing two birds with one stone) and also famously do not have a menu. You tell the staff what you like or don't like, your favourite spirits or cocktails and they'll shake up something for you. Non-drinkers can also partake in the choose-your-own-adventure style drinks.
If you want to soak up some vitamin D while sipping on a cocktail, there's no shortage of stellar patios in Montréal. Bar Bello has a stunning interior but for good people-watching, grab a seat on the terrace in Little Italy. My group squealed at the nifty retro negroni vending machine where for $22, you purchase a token, pop it into the machine and a staff member retrieves the negroni of your choice. Rotating options include Fragola (strawberry, gin, vermouth, campari), Chocolato (with toasted cacao) and the Boulevardier with whiskey.
Let's say you want to stay somewhere central with a good breakfast that consists of more than mini yogurts and a chafing dish of scrambled eggs made 4 hours ago. Le Germaine Hotel has a bright and airy restaurant with a great breakfast menu since I needed to pre-game before my days of sport eating. Bonus: They serve Fairmount bagels. If you've got a busy day and won't find time to grab the Montréal classic during your stay.
After a few days in Montréal, we drove 2.5 hours to Québec City for more eating because it's our strongest skillset.
In historic Old Québec City is the only restaurant in Québec (and only the second in Canada) to be awarded 2 Michelin stars, Tanière³. The most stars you can get is 3, so it's a big deal. The restaurant is located in the vaulted cellars of the Leber & Charest houses built in the late 1600's, which means they are very old and very cool.
Chef François-Emmanuel Nicol has lifted the restaurant's Boreal cuisine to new heights focusing on locally-sourced and seasonal ingredients. The 15 to 20 course menu (depends on the season) runs about $300 per person. Every dish from the caviar with scallop and potato, to the oyster with dashi and the little tart with ricotta cheese, mushroom and apple, was inventive and delicious. The experience is full of surprises and thoughtful details that make it worth saving up for.
And finally, if your travel checklist included a hotel, a museum, and farm-fresh produce, then Auberge Saint-Antoine in the Old Port of Québec City is the boutique hotel for you. Their restaurant Chez Muffy, also made it onto the Michelin Recommended list, no doubt largely due to the super fresh fruits and veggies grown on their farm located on Île d'Orléans about 20km away.
I'm not sure how it happened but with these days of intense eating, I didn't have a single poutine. I guess I'll have to go back. The challenge lives on.
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