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National Geographic
6 hours ago
- National Geographic
The picturesque Spanish villages that tourists haven't found—yet
Slightly up north of Madrid and Barcelona, nestling at the foothills of the Pyrenees, lies the region of Aragon, rich in history and natural beauty. Here, green hills hug the soaring mountains and dense forests open up to flowering meadows. Down in the valleys, ancient castles hide among the olive groves, endless vineyards disappear into the horizon and centuries-old villages bask in the Mediterranean sun all summer long. Aragon's historical claim to fame reaches all the way to America. Known as the Kingdom of Aragon in the 11th century, it became a precursor to the modern-day Spain, when King Ferdinand of Aragon married Queen Isabella of Castile in 1469. About two decades later, the royal couple financed Christopher Columbus's voyage to the New World. In recent years, beautiful nature and booming gastronomy placed Aragon on the map again, yet so far it has managed to evade mass tourism. Clinging to the banks of the Ebro River, Aragon's breezy capital Zaragoza remains uncrowded—even in summer. So do its medieval villages that are sprinkled throughout the countryside. Marvel at historical treasures Zaragoza boasts an amalgam of architectural styles, including Romanesque, Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance, as well as the Mudejar, a mix of Islamic and Christian styles, that is prominent in the Aragon region. Visit the Alfajería Palace— parts of which date to the 11th century—to see some of these features harmoniously blending together. Unusual for a relatively small city, Zaragoza has two cathedrals: La Seo, which hosts a tapestry collection, and Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, famous for frescos painted by Francisco de Goya. About an hour north of Zaragoza sits Loarre Castle, built in 1085. Today, it's better known for its appearance in the 2005 Kingdom of Heaven movie, in which Orlando Bloom rides his horse up the castle steps. Another hour north brings you to the Monastery of San Juan de la Peña, a unique sanctuary carved out of the mountain, now a museum. La Seo is home to a world-class collection of Flemish tapestries. Photograph By Dorothea Schmid/laif/Redux Explore medieval villages In the second half of the 20th century, Aragon struggled with the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War and World War II. 'Farmers couldn't feed their families, so they went to big cities looking for work at factories and many villages were nearly abandoned,' says Aragon-based Alba Cruells, whose company Spain Insights offers custom tours of the region. 'Today, the trend has reversed. People are returning to their ancestral homes, reviving the region, which sparked rural tourism.' One of the oldest Aragon villages, Alquézar retains much of its medieval looks. Traverse its labyrinthian cobblestone streets and Plaza Mayor, the main square, where centuries-old houses still maintain massive wooden doors once used to let horse carriages pass through. Note the still-intact animal hooves nailed on or above the doors—medieval residents believed that they warded off witches. (Why Menorca's capital is one of Spain's most underrated cities) Visit San Vicente in Roda de Isabena, the oldest cathedral in Aragon with a beautiful cloister. In Ainsa, take a stroll down the main street to see the Traditional Arts and Crafts Museum that displays medieval household items ranging from spinning wheels to iron tools. Keep an eye out for Apartamentos El Pozo: About 10 years ago, when the owners renovated the basement, they discovered a 15th century mikve—a purifying ritual Jewish bath, which temporarily turned the building into an archaeological site. Today you can see the bath through the glass cover on the first floor—the doors are open. The Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor dates back to the ninth century. Photograph By Tolobalaguer/Shutterstock Indulge in local specialties One of the region's most famous specialties is frutas de Aragon, sweets made with candied pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, and plums, dipped in rich dark chocolate. The local lore states that Aragon was the first place in Europe where chocolate arrived from the New World, brought by the traveling monks, who perfected the recipe over the years. Stock up to take some home at Pastelería Fantoba in Zaragoza or browse the city's Central Market where you can also pick up Jamón de Teruel, Aragon's prized ham made from pigs raised in the mountainous Teruel region before curing for 12 months. (15 of the best Spanish food experiences) On the countryside, stop at Quesos Bal de Broto in Sarvisé for local cheeses and a tour of its aging cellar. At Alquézar's family-owned bakery Panaderia O'Forno, treat yourself to a dobladillo, a thin and crispy pastry filled with almond paste. Then proceed to the nearby village of Buera to see Torno de Buera, an olive oil museum that features an 17th-century olive oil press. You can also taste some of the oil varieties, which surprisingly differ in flavor based on where in the region they come from. Wine-tasting choices abound here, but Enate in Salas Bajas stands out. A winery and art gallery, it's a place to sip a heritage vintage while learning about contemporary Spanish art. Zaragoza's Central Market has been selling local food since 1903. Savor the ultimate farm-to-table gastronomy Some of the best dishes in Aragon are found in local villages where produce literally comes to the table from a farm across the road. 'Some of Spain's best chefs are moving to the countryside for that super fresh produce,' says Cruells. 'Many rural restaurants join the 'zero kilometers' movement, in which ingredients travel as little as possible.' One of them is Molino de Larués, a cozy spot in the village of Larués; it boasts unique dishes like tomato-and-cherry soup with a dollop of ice-cream. Local chefs take pride in minimizing waste by using all parts of an animal. It's not uncommon to see dishes like 'stewed pigs' cheeks' on the menus—a tender, juicy delicacy you can try at La Cocinilla in Torla-Ordesa. For tapas, head to Nyibeta Degustacion in Buera to savor ternasco de Aragón—slow-roasted lamb with potatoes, and fideuá de pulpo—an octopus with short noodles. Aragon's chefs love experimenting with mixing bold ingredients too: In Zaragoza, stop by La Flor de Lis for a tomato-rabbit salad dressed with a pine nut vinaigrette and thyme-flavored ice-cream. Aragon chefs and restaurants pride themselves on sourcing ingredients from within the region. Photograph By Nano Calvo/VWPics/Redux (Top) (Left) and Photograph By Francesco Bonino/Shutterstock (Bottom) (Right) Hike, bike, and fly From glacier-covered peaks to majestic waterfalls, the Pyrenees are spectacular. Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park offers trails for all hiking levels as well as cycling and mountain biking routes. For a thrilling hike, take Ruta congosto de Entremón in Sobrarbe Geopark, where the paths, etched on the edges of forested cliffs, can be so narrow that you must hold on to ropes to keep walking. (8 of the best beach cities in Spain) Similarly exhilarating is a trek through the River Vero Canyon that begins outside of Alquézar and weaves through a network of passageways mounted on steep cliffs, overlooking gorges and waterfalls below. The Pyrenees-Mont Perdu area is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Photograph by Francois Laurens / Hans Luca/Redux 'If you're uncomfortable with heights, these walks are probably not for you,' cautions local guide Guayo Mulero. But if you crave the adrenaline rush, try 'flying like a bird' over the mountains at the Tirolina-Ordesa zipline, Mulero suggests. It's said to be the longest in Europe and the fastest in the world with a speed of nearly 100 miles per hour. A nomadic New Yorker, Lina Zeldovich shimmied with belly dancers in Turkey, cooked a zebu stew in Madagascar, fished for piranhas in the Amazon, paddled away from a calving iceberg in the Arctic, sipped a drink made from a venomous snake in Peru—and always lived to tell the story. She is the author of the book, The Living Medicine, part of which takes place in Tbilisi, Georgia.
Times
20 hours ago
- Times
Spain's least touristy town has a new stay — go before everyone else
Not all of Spain is sizzling in a heatwave. My high-summer visit to the small town of Molina de Aragon, between Madrid and Zaragoza in the province of Guadalajara, is positively temperate — in the high 20s during the day and with cooler nights. It's part of Spain's so-called ice triangle, which also includes the towns of Teruel and Calamocha. All sit at an average altitude of 1,000m and are known for cold winters and moderate summers. There's plenty more to recommend Molina too. The centuries-old town is full of history and has a brand new parador. The 99th in Spain's chain of state-run hotels opened in May and is unusual in that, rather than being in a historic building, it offers panoramic views of one: Molina's splendid 12th-century castillo, which lies opposite, across the steep Gallo its hillside castle, extensive old town and pretty Romanesque bridge, it must be one of Spain's least-touristy towns: there's one bar — La Granja on Plaza San Pedro — and a few shops selling overalls or ironmongery to locals. That's it; not a souvenir or overpriced cocktail in sight. Thanks probably to the low visitor numbers, my husband and I find that everyone — from customers in that low-key bar to the woman in the castle ticket office — is pleased to see us, interested to know where we're from and keen to help out when our poor Spanish lets us down. The ethos of the paradors has three main aims: to bring historic buildings back to life, give poorer areas an economic boost and showcase the 'other' Spain, away from beach resorts and well-known cities. Molina's new-build addition, designed by the Colombian-born architect Andres Perea Ortega, was conceived in response to devastating wildfires in the area in 2005 in which 11 people died and 13,000 hectares of forest were destroyed. It has taken 20 years to come to fruition, but today the hotel's clean modern lines curve round Molina's western side like a protective arm. It's built of local stone and the architects' favourite 'weathering steel' with a protective rust-like patina in warm dark brown. The east side is mostly glass, for those castle views, and the grounds are planted with rosemary, lavender and cypress trees. • Discover our full guide to Spain The interior is equally modern, with brilliantly curated artworks — paintings plus ceramic, metal and glass sculptures — and fairly frigid air con. Our room has a balcony overlooking the castle, a sleek stone-and-glass bathroom and the biggest bed we have slept in, a good seven feet across. Our fellow guests — we are the only foreigners — are mostly couples, although there are some grandparents with school-age grandkids. The food in the restaurant, which is also open to non-residents, is very good. A set dinner accompanied by live music (Tuesdays and Sundays) offers delicious jamon iberico, mango gazpacho with smoked eel, cod Bilbao-style (with garlic, vinegar and mild chilli) and margarita sorbet served with a straw. • Read our full guide to Spain hotels Over dinner, as darkness falls, the castle and the older Torre de Aragon watchtower above it is beautifully illuminated. The next morning we head over the river and up through the old town for a closer look. With its square, flag-topped towers and miles of battlements, the castle looks like the model for every toy fort ever made (entry £4). It comes as no surprise that El Cid was based here for a time. The vast site, which we share with just five other people, is wonderfully unmanicured, with long grass and straggly wildflowers covering the steeply rising ground inside the perimeter walls. Skylarks are singing their hearts out as we toil up the slope toward the walled plaza de armas (parade ground), four of whose original eight towers still stand. This area alone is in itself as big as many UK castles. We walk round as many of the battlements as possible, until I scare myself half to death scrambling down the pitch-dark steep and crumbly steps of one of the towers. English Heritage health and safety officials would have a fit at all the cracked stones, missing banisters and general dilapidation, but on the whole we enjoy the absence of 'mind your head' and 'danger steep drop' signs. The town and castle aside, nature lovers can easily fill days in Molina exploring the nearby Unesco-listed Molina-Alto Tajo Geopark, with its cliffs, canyons and jaw-dropping rock formations of the kind you would expect in Arizona or Utah. Here the Iberian peninsula's mighty Tagus River (which empties into the Atlantic from Lisbon, 600 miles away) is in its infancy, flowing clear through a network of wooded gorges. We drive a few minutes west from Molina and a wall of bulbous red sandstone pinnacles soon rears up, some with young trees perched on their tops. We meet the local geologist and guide José Antonio Martínez Perruca by the Virgen de la Hoz church, which sits at the bottom of one such formation, and start to climb the twisting rocky trail behind. Soon we're in the midst of the towers, peering into chasms and eyeballing the small mountain goats that browse almost-vertical rock faces for tasty lumps of moss. A griffon vulture, here from north Africa for the breeding season, is riding the thermals high above. Martínez tells us this geology was formed not by the action of the Tagus and its tributaries but 200 million years ago, in the Triassic period, when the supercontinent of Pangea was breaking up into Africa, the Americas and Europe. It's a perfect day, with cool breezes and bright sun, as we wander back down the steep slopes, yet we see not another soul. Martínez would love the area to find a larger audience. 'Our problem,' he says, 'is that people driving up from Madrid, across Spain's central plateau, have no idea these natural treasures exist.' The next day we motor half an hour south to the village of Chequilla, stopping on the way at a thrilling viewpoint over the Cabrillas gorge. Tiny Chequilla, population 14, seems to be on friendly terms with all this striking geology; its houses, garages and church huddle beneath the sandstone monoliths as if they are so many benevolent guardians. We are puzzled by signs to a plaza de toros — surely this place is too small to have its own bullring — but discover as we walk that this is a natural arena in the middle of Chequilla's ciudad encantada, an 'enchanted city' of rocky outcrops, clefts and towers on the village's southern edge. In August the space is used for an annual bull run, part of the Santo Cristo de la Fortaleza festival. Photographs show spectators watching from the flat tops of surrounding rock formations. Today, though, it is quiet; ours is the only car in the village car park, and the sole bar is firmly closed. On the way back to Madrid, we spend a night at a more classic parador, in the slightly larger town of Sigüenza. It's housed in a castle that was converted into a bishop's palace in the 12th century and has been operating as a parador since 1976. There are British voices in the breakfast room (formerly the bishop's throne room) and even a handful of artisanal gift shops near the surprisingly large cathedral. It's comfortable, palatial (naturally) and its chef offers a delicious seven-course tasting menu, but we're glad to have had a taste of less-trodden Spain in ancient Molina's very cool new parador. This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Liz Boulter was a guest of Parador de Molina de Aragon, which has B&B doubles from £140 ( Fly to Madrid
Winnipeg Free Press
17-07-2025
- General
- Winnipeg Free Press
Historical society announces Top 10 endangered buildings
The Manitoba Historical Society is getting the word out about some of the province's most threatened historic buildings before they fall further into neglect. The society released its annual Top‑10 Endangered Structures list on Wednesday, a selection of provincial sites plagued by vacancy, decay or redevelopment pressures. Gail Perry, chair of the society's historic preservation committee, said the main goal of releasing the list is to educate Manitobans about the under-maintained buildings that are historically important. MIKE DEAL / FREE PRESS The Peck building at 33 Princess Street in Winnipeg is on the Manitoba Historical Society's annual list of the Top 10 endangered structures in Manitoba for 2025. The buildings are considered historically significant landmarks that face uncertain futures due to neglect, development pressures, or lack of awareness. 'An engaged community is always a better community,' said Perry. 'If people become aware and learn more about these structures, perhaps they will want to help preserve them so others can enjoy the stories that these structures tell.' Each structure in this year's edition represents a different building type that displays a different aspect of Manitoba architecture, Perry said, adding they tell stories about Manitoba's past, present, and future. The Peck Building, a six‑storey landmark on Princess Street in the Exchange District has been empty for years. Perry noted that is often the clearest sign a building's future is uncertain or in danger, as unoccupied structures miss out on day‑to‑day upkeep and become more susceptible to fire, trespassing, or simply being forgotten. Built in 1893 by architect Charles Wheeler, the Peck's first four floors exhibit Romanesque styling, complete with rounded arches, richly detailed brickwork, and decorative carved faces. Fourteen years later, John D. Atchison added two more storeys using similar materials and window alignment. St. Peter Dynevor Anglican Rectory, at 1147 Breezy Point Rd., in the RM of St. Andrews is listed as the No. 1 endangered building. Also included on the list are the Canadian National Railway turntable in Dauphin and the town hall in Hartney, southwest of Brandon. Bruce Evans, reeve of the RM of Grassland, where Hartney is located, said he is not surprised the town hall is featured. 'It's in a pretty bad state right now,' said Evans. 'The roof is suspect, and the other thing is that it was deemed to have asbestos in it.' Evans said the building hasn't been in use for several years and that there's been some chatter in the community about revamping it, but it's such a significant project that the municipality doesn't have the money for it. Last year, the society included Holy Trinity Anglican Church on Smith Street in downtown Winnipeg on the endangered list. It may have contributed to the decision by CentreVenture Development Corp. to invest in a feasibility study to revamp the iconic building. The church was built in 1883-84 without a foundation, a common practice at the time. It will cost in excess of $7 million to repair it. Wednesdays Sent weekly from the heart of Turtle Island, an exploration of Indigenous voices, perspectives and experiences. Perry said none of the buildings on this year's list faces immediate threat, but their long‑term survival depends on public attention today. She encouraged all Manitobans to pay more attention to the architecture around them and reach out to elected officials, heritage groups or simply spark conversations within their communities if they notice a potentially endangered building. 'Don't be afraid to stop and look around, and you'll appreciate what's there, because if you look a little bit closer, you'll see things that you didn't quite notice,' she said. The Winnipeg Architecture Foundation offers tours of the city's popular landmarks and structures, which are free of charge. More details on this year's Top‑10 list are available on the society's website.
The Age
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
Rome's forgotten river is actually home to some of its greatest sights
4 Peek through the keyhole at Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta Atop the Aventine Hill, one of Rome's magnificent seven mounts and the site of the gorgeous Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) overlooking the Tiber, is this Roman novelty. You'll probably have to queue for a glimpse, but it's worth it for the perfectly framed, almost-too-good-to-be-true view of St Peter's Basilica, flanked by poplar-like trees, that can all be enjoyed through the bronze keyhole in the huge priory door. 5 Relive the classic scene from Roman Holiday Resist, if you can, the urge to queue before Bocca della Verita, or the 'Mouth of Truth' for an obligatory photo (and definitely don't place your hand in the mouth). But do pause to admire this slightly scary-looking medieval carving as you enter the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, distinguished by its elegant Romanesque bell tower. Film buffs will recall that Bocca della Verita features in Roman Holiday, the delightful 1953 Hollywood romantic comedy. In it Gregory Peck plays a hilarious practical joke – relating to the legend that claims that if you place your hand in the carving's mouth and tell a lie its jaws will snap shut – on his co-star, Audrey Hepburn. 6 Stroll along the quiet banks of the Tiber A great way to escape the Rome ruckus is to take a walk along the Tiber's serene banks, something few Romans do. The river's 13-metre embankments – built in the 19th century to contain the river and prevent flooding – were scrubbed of graffiti in time for this year's Papal Jubilee though doubtless it's returned. While the embankments do spare Rome from periodic flooding they also deny the city a relationship with the river akin to that of Paris and its Seine. 7 Capture the classic Tiber River scene at dusk One of the eternal images of the Eternal City is the photo opportunity that presents at dusk from Roman Emperor Hadrian's 134 AD Ponte Sant'Angelo. In the right conditions, as night begins to wrap itself around Rome like a papal cloak, feathery pink clouds can form around the orb-like dome of St Peter's Basilica, with even the capital's much maligned, all aglow, waterway picture-perfect in the rapidly fading light.
Sydney Morning Herald
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
Rome's forgotten river is actually home to some of its greatest sights
4 Peek through the keyhole at Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta Atop the Aventine Hill, one of Rome's magnificent seven mounts and the site of the gorgeous Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) overlooking the Tiber, is this Roman novelty. You'll probably have to queue for a glimpse, but it's worth it for the perfectly framed, almost-too-good-to-be-true view of St Peter's Basilica, flanked by poplar-like trees, that can all be enjoyed through the bronze keyhole in the huge priory door. 5 Relive the classic scene from Roman Holiday Resist, if you can, the urge to queue before Bocca della Verita, or the 'Mouth of Truth' for an obligatory photo (and definitely don't place your hand in the mouth). But do pause to admire this slightly scary-looking medieval carving as you enter the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, distinguished by its elegant Romanesque bell tower. Film buffs will recall that Bocca della Verita features in Roman Holiday, the delightful 1953 Hollywood romantic comedy. In it Gregory Peck plays a hilarious practical joke – relating to the legend that claims that if you place your hand in the carving's mouth and tell a lie its jaws will snap shut – on his co-star, Audrey Hepburn. 6 Stroll along the quiet banks of the Tiber A great way to escape the Rome ruckus is to take a walk along the Tiber's serene banks, something few Romans do. The river's 13-metre embankments – built in the 19th century to contain the river and prevent flooding – were scrubbed of graffiti in time for this year's Papal Jubilee though doubtless it's returned. While the embankments do spare Rome from periodic flooding they also deny the city a relationship with the river akin to that of Paris and its Seine. 7 Capture the classic Tiber River scene at dusk One of the eternal images of the Eternal City is the photo opportunity that presents at dusk from Roman Emperor Hadrian's 134 AD Ponte Sant'Angelo. In the right conditions, as night begins to wrap itself around Rome like a papal cloak, feathery pink clouds can form around the orb-like dome of St Peter's Basilica, with even the capital's much maligned, all aglow, waterway picture-perfect in the rapidly fading light.
