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Hindustan Times
24-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
The Taste by Vir Sanghvi: How Indian restaurant Tresind Studio won Dubai's first three Michelin stars
It was one of the more extraordinary things that I have done in my life. It started when Michelin called me to discuss something confidential. If you know how the Michelin Guide works then you will know that everything they do is confidential. Their inspectors are not gifted amateurs who like eating out. They are hardcore professionals who work full time for Michelin and eat at least 300 meals at restaurants every year. They are famously anonymous and because nobody recognises them they can pretend to be ordinary customers out for a good meal when they visit restaurants. Because restaurateurs may become familiar with some faces, Michelin mixes it up, sending inspectors from other countries to assess restaurants. So, if you run a Southern Italian restaurant in, say, Seoul one of the guys who reviews it may have flown in from Naples. No outsider knows what the inspectors decide, or how the final decisions about stars are made or even how many inspectors have visited the restaurant. Nothing is revealed except for the stars themselves which are announced at annual functions in the 50 or so locations where Michelin operates. So, when Michelin told me that our conversation was totally confidential I was not surprised. But what they said next did surprise me. The inspectors had finally decided to award three stars to a restaurant in Dubai, something they had not done for the three years that Michelin had been in Dubai. But now, in their fourth year, they were finally ready to take the plunge. Gwendal Poullennec, who is international director and the boss of the guide, was going to make a special trip to Dubai to tell the lucky restaurant two days before the formal announcement. Would I like to go with him to the restaurant when he broke the news? Would I? Of course, I would! They would tell me the name of the restaurant they said only if I agreed not to tell a soul. At this stage I had a trip booked to South East Asia and was not going to be available to attend the Dubai awards but the moment Michelin asked me, I decided at once to reschedule the South East Asia trip. (Naturally!) So which restaurant would it be? I suggested to them that it would be Row on 45 which had stormed into the list with two stars the previous year. Or perhaps it would be FZN which I had predicted would be the first three-star restaurant in Dubai. Also Read | Rude Food by Vir Sanghvi: A fortnight of fantastic meals They did not comment on my speculation but said that Gwendal wanted to break the news to an Indian restaurant. I knew at once which restaurant it had to be: Tresind Studio. There was no doubt in my mind that Tresind Studio deserved three stars. Except that Michelin had never before given three stars to an Indian restaurant. Was it now going to break that precedent? It was. I was overjoyed for the folks at Tresind who I have admired since I first wrote about the restaurant over a decade ago when it had just opened and nobody had heard of it or of its young chef, Himanshu Saini, who was still in his 20s but already showing signs of greatness. But most of all, I was really overjoyed for India. For decades now, Indian cuisine, one of the world's greatest, had been dismissed as an 'ethnic' cuisine, its reputation destroyed by cheap Bangladeshi curry houses in the UK. Even when an Indian restaurant got a star, it usually stopped at that single star and chefs who Frenchified their food were rewarded by most global organisations. Only Gaggan Anand in Bangkok kept India's foodie prestige alive by being daring. Admittedly this had begun to change once Gwendal (who is an Asia buff and a Japanese speaker) took the Michelin guide around the world and began recognising non-European cuisines. Indian restaurants began finally to get two stars and Michelin's old 'French is best' global image softened to reflect the modern era. But three stars for Indian food? Nah! Anyhow I kept my word to Michelin. My son said he wanted to go to the Dubai ceremony. I told him I would be in Thailand. Himanshu asked if I was coming to Dubai. I lied again. I posted Thailand pictures on my Instagram to confuse everyone. Then, two days before the ceremony, having sneaked into Dubai, I got into a car with Gwendal and we drove to Tresind Studio. Michelin had told the Tresind team that they wanted to shoot for a forthcoming event in Qatar so a TV crew was hard at work shooting with Himanshu upstairs while we hid in a coffee shop downstairs. Finally, the crew gave us the go ahead and we went up to let Gwendal convey the news. Himanshu says now that he was too dazed to notice I had entered but members of his team who did see me despite my best efforts at being inconspicuous, wondered what the hell I was doing there. Then Gwendal introduced himself and told the assembled team that they had won three stars. I have known Himanshu for a long time and he is pretty much the brand ambassador for gratuitous weeping, but to my surprise he held it together and made a cogent speech for the cameras. But it was Vipin, Tresind's super cool manager, who is responsible for the restaurant's impeccable service, who was overcome by emotion and burst into tears. So did much of the team. All of them were made to sign NDAs and to promise not to breathe a word till the official announcement. I was sceptical but they kept their word. Two days later when I went to the official ceremony, nobody had any idea that Tresind Studio had won the ultimate accolade. At the ceremony, I met Himanshu's wife, the rock of his life, and told her how surprised I was by Himanshu's composure. Well, she said, when he finally told her, she wept uncontrollably. And then Himanshu finally let it all out and joined her in her tears. Given the enormity of the achievement, they had a right to be emotional. So, is this a new beginning for Indian food at an international level? Gwendal who has worked so tirelessly to give non-European cuisines the respect they deserve, thinks it may well be. Rene Redzepi, one of the world's most influential chefs, thinks Indian food has begun its ascent. 'This is the first of many many more,' he told me. Gaggan Anand who set off this boom said 'so good to see a young chef do it and to pave the way for future generations'. As for me, I am relieved to not have the burden of keeping the secret any longer. And there was tension too: I broke the story on the Hindustan Times online edition just as the announcement was being made. (It was page one in the print edition.) I worried about filing too early and giving away the secret. Or of filing too late! But speaking as an Indian, I am delighted to see our cuisine get the recognition it deserves. And yes, I am thrilled to have had a tiny walk-on role in this saga. Michelin lived up to its reputation for confidentiality. Even as we kept the Tresind Studio secret, nobody let slip that another restaurant was also getting three stars. Bjorn Frantzen became the only chef in the world to have three restaurants with three stars as his FZN at Atlantis triumphed. It's a great achievement but now that the doors have opened I am sure that it is only a matter of time before an Indian chef challenges Frantzen! Because last week, in Dubai, Michelin ushered in a new era for the international acceptance of Indian cuisine.
The Sun
23-04-2025
- Entertainment
- The Sun
Michelin Star chef and Sky TV star suddenly closes luxury Harrods pop-up after eight months
A MICHELIN chef and Sky TV star has announced the shock closure of his Harrods pop-up just eight months after it opened. The project was one of five new food joints launched by the chef in the past year. 5 5 5 Hot Dogs by Three Darlings, owned by high profile chef Jason Atherton, was a gourmet hot dog concept in Harrods Dining Hall but it has unfortunately shut up shop. The restaurant concept for "haute" dogs was introduced to the posh department store in summer but closed before it made its first birthday. Harrods announced the surprise closure on its website, stating: "Hot Dogs by Three Darlings is now closed. "Having served thousands of 'haute dogs' to customers over the past eight months, Hot Dogs by Three Darlings has completed its final service and is now permanently closed." Jason, 53, opened the hot dog venue with the hope of adding a bit of glamour to the classic dish. It seated 25 diners and the menu was inspired by various locations across the globe, taking flavours from a range of cuisines, and offering five different hot dogs. The Souk Dog was created with lamb and harissa and The Texican Flesty 'n' Fiery offered beef sausages, guacamole and jalapenos. Being based in a Grade II listed luxury shopping centre in the swankiest area of London, the hot dogs were never going to be cheap. Menu prices ranged from £16 up to a staggering £52 for a single hot dog. For those wondering what is included in a fifty-pound-butty, the sausage is smothered in grated truffle - a concept designed with model David Gandy. First look inside revamped hit restaurant that was forced to close during covid On the restaurant's pink-themed Instagram, images of the hot dogs can be seen stacked with topping and flags. The pop-up also serves a range of drinks to go with your delicious dogs - wine, beer, cocktails, and even milkshakes. Hot Dogs by Three Darlings took over the space from Sushi by Masa and will now delegate the site to Caviar Bar. The new pop-up promises to provide a "new level of indulgence" and offers an eye-watering £75 lobster cocktail. South Yorkshire-born Jason also runs a selection of well-received restaurants including Pollen Street Social, which has won numerous awards including a Michelin star and Row on 45, which has snapped up two Michelin stars. In 2023, the TV star opened up on his reported fallout with his former boss Gordon Ramsay - insisting his mentor is "a legend". During a TV appearance in 2019 he admitted they haven't spoken since his departure - after which he earned a Michelin star within a year of opening his restaurant Pollen Street Social. When asked about his relationship with Gordon, Jason spoke highly of his ex-mentor and told The Sun: "There's certainly no feud from my side. "I'm only five foot eight, don't want a feud with Mr. Ramsay. "He's a legend, an absolute legend. And he's, you know, when I worked for him, he was 100 per cent at top of his game and he still is." Now Jason Atherton is a Michelin star and multiple award-winning Chef with 16 restaurants around the world. 5 5
FACT
07-04-2025
- Entertainment
- FACT
KEN by Kamatsuda Review: Is this Dubai's most expensive restaurant?
The Japanese restaurant specialises in rare Wagyu beef. Dubai is a city known for its expensive tastes, from top-tier hotels to supercars, super yachts and fine dining experiences such as Sublimotion (AED 5,000 per head), FZN (AED 2,000 per head) and Row on 45 (AED AED 1,245 per head), which despite the prominent price point have become the trend du jour for both customers and critics. Located in The Dubai EDITION, the newly opened KEN by Kamatsuda follows this trajectory but is not a restaurant for the masses. It's a hushed, reverent space for those who seek their sushi with substance. Owner and chef Ken Kamatsuda takes pride in his direct relationships with Japanese producers, allowing him to source rare and exclusive ingredients, many of which are found nowhere else in Dubai. The menu features prized Awa Wagyu beef, renowned for its rich flavour, sweet marbling, and melt-in-your-mouth texture, as well as fresh Saga Red Uni, flown in directly from Toyosu Market in Japan. However, it's the restaurant's omakase experience, priced at AED 5,000 per head, that has garnered much attention. Taking over the space on the hotel's first floor previously occupied by the cocktail bar Ergo, KEN by Kamatsuda has stripped away the industrial brashness of its former guise and replaced it with a discreet dining room. The minimalist interior is a masterstroke in Japanese restraint: subtle lighting, clean lines and touches of raw wood draw the eye directly to the showpiece—a small sushi counter behind which the magic unfolds. There are no distractions here, just the knife work of a culinary team whose focus is absolute. Touches of nature creep into the dining room via stones and small Bonsai trees placed strategically between guests' chopsticks and glassware, bringing a sense of nature into an otherwise urban environment; a grand piano provides the soundtrack, yet the focus remains on the premium ingredients. The omakase menu (priced between AED 1,200 and AED 5,000 per head) is an exercise in elevated simplicity that leaves your meal entirely in the hands of Chef Kamatsuda. The Gokan offering, translating loosely to 'the five senses,' comprises thirteen dishes, all honouring the heritage of Japanese Kaiseki while celebrating Dubai's appetite for indulgence. The procession opens with a Luxury Bowl, a jewel box of scallop, salmon roe, and Awa Wagyu, delicately topped with caviar. Wrapped in premium Yoshino River nori, it's a dish that whispers luxury. Next comes the Omer Chawanmushi, a silken egg custard infused with blue crab and lobster that has been slow-cooked for three hours and crowned with a concentrated bisque. The result? Pure umami with a depth that could rival the ocean itself. The Wagyu Niku Sushi is crafted with the highest-grade A5 Awa Wagyu, lightly seared and gently draped over vinegared rice. It melts on the tongue, leaving behind a beautiful buttery richness. The Otoro Nigiri, a decadent cut of buttery bluefin tuna, is pressed by hand and served just above room temperature, the fat melting on contact with the tongue. The kitchen team displays intimate energy and a gentle rhythm that mirrors the omakase experience. One course flows into the next with precision, each dish more quietly confident than the last. Inspired by the sea of clouds over Mount Fuji, The Unkai is a poetic plate of charcoal-seared Awa Wagyu tataki, where the smoky aroma is lifted by basil oil and brightened by a sweet apple and onion sauce. Served amidst plumes of smoke in a bulbous glass bowl, it's a dish that commands silence at the counter, a moment to taste and reflect. Then comes the Cuttlet Sandwich. A piece of premium A5 Wagyu tenderloin in garlic butter sauce, sandwiched between a soft, sweet brioche. Continuing the carnivorous cravings, an Awa Wagyu Steak, grilled low and slow, is sliced with surgical precision and paired with a sticky balsamic reduction and mashed potatoes. The Awa Wagyu Yakisukiyaki takes the traditional sukiyaki and reimagines it, Kamatsuda-style, with grilled Awa Wagyu swimming in a luscious egg yolk sauce. Prepared with candy floss and soy, the notes of sweetness linger long after the final bite. But of course, KEN doesn't stop there. Tableside Coconut Ice Cream is churned fresh before your eyes and scooped over a delicate fruit compote for a refreshing finale. And for the indecisive sweet tooth? A curated dessert plate tailored to your preferences with fresh fruits, Japanese cheesecake and matcha tiramisu rounds out the proceedings. The service is attentive without hovering. The team explains each course with a reverence that's never rehearsed, and pairings are thoughtfully matched to elevate rather than overpower. Dubai is no stranger to high-end Japanese dining. From the long-standing titans like Zuma to shiny new imports such as Kinugawa and Kiyoshi, the city has seen its fair share of omakase counters. While the comparison to the FACT Award-winning TakaHisa will inevitably be drawn, KEN by Kamatsuda offers a return to craftsmanship, a focus on premium products and meticulous attention to detail. It won't be for everyone, and that's precisely the point. KEN by Kamatsuda doesn't shout for attention, and the premium pricing will deter some. There are no selfie walls or DJ sets, and in a city that often confuses flash for flavour, KEN by Kamatsuda is a welcome whisper. GO: Visit for reservations and more information.
Khaleej Times
03-04-2025
- Business
- Khaleej Times
Meet the chef who turned his passion into a Michelin-starred empire
In the bustling world of fine dining, where trends flicker like candle flames and only the most resilient survive, Michelin-starred Chef Jason Atherton has carved a legacy built on relentless ambition, unshakable philosophy, and an insatiable hunger for innovation. From a small seaside town in Lincolnshire to the gleaming skyline of Dubai, his journey has been nothing short of extraordinary. For Atherton, the path to culinary stardom began in the intimate confines of his mother's guesthouse kitchen in Skegness. 'Mum cooked everything fresh because there wasn't really processed food back then,' he recalls. With no money for extra staff, young Jason and his sister became unofficial sous-chefs and dishwashers. 'For me, it was a way to be close to my mum,' he reminisces. That early exposure to the rhythm of a kitchen—flour-dusted hands, the scent of roasting meats, the clatter of pans—ignited a passion that would shape the rest of his life. Having spent decades at the helm of some of the world's most prestigious restaurants, Atherton knows that failure is just another ingredient in success. 'If you're going to open 30 restaurants, not every single one is going to work,' he admits. 'But the key is to not see failure as failure—it's part of the journey.' It's a perspective honed by experience. A bad investment, a struggling location, or even just bad timing can spell disaster, but Atherton embraces the setbacks. 'If you lose money, if you disappoint investors, it's personal,' he says, 'But you take a step back, you learn, and you move forward.' While some chefs focus on mastering a single technique, Atherton believes in constant evolution. 'No matter how successful you were yesterday, you can always be better,' he says. Whether it's improving his cooking, his leadership, or simply his discipline at the gym, personal development is paramount. Yet, the biggest lesson of all? Enjoying the journey. 'I've been guilty of constantly grinding, not stopping to appreciate the milestones,' he admits. 'But time flies. One moment, you're the 'hot young chef'; the next, they're talking about lifetime achievement awards.' Striking the perfect balance between innovation and tradion In an era where fusion cuisine and bold experimentation dominate, Atherton is wary of blindly following trends. 'Being a chef is like being a designer for a fashion house,' he explains. 'If you're leading the way, people look to you for inspiration. But following trends? That's not enough.' Instead, he focuses on understanding the 'why' behind them. 'Take street food. People are asking, 'Why spend $1,000 on dinner when I can have an amazing experience for $50?' That's the question we must answer.' At Row on 45, his two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Dubai, he refuses to simply ride the wave of what's popular. 'We cook French food with Japanese ingredients—not because it's trendy, but because I want the best possible product on the plate.' For Atherton, sustainability isn't just a buzzword—it's a responsibility. 'It's more of a concern for Gen Z than my generation,' he acknowledges. 'But it's not a trend. It's essential for mankind.' From sourcing local fish for his high-volume restaurants to demanding electric delivery trucks in London, he ensures his operations contribute to a greener future. 'We're all electric—no gas. We minimise waste. In the UK, if a supplier doesn't use electric vehicles, I don't work with them.' His hope? That by setting the standard, others will follow. 'If Row on 45 is using sustainable ingredients, other chefs take notice. That's how change happens.' Triumph in Dubai Opening a restaurant that earns two Michelin stars within ten months is no small feat. Yet, for Atherton, it wasn't about chasing accolades. 'If you set up a restaurant just to win awards, you'll be disappointed,' he says. Instead, his philosophy is simple: create an unforgettable experience. 'Guests walking out saying, 'That's the best meal I've ever had'—that's what matters.' The awards, he believes, are simply a byproduct of doing things right. 'At Row on 45, we pushed every day, refined every dish. Michelin saw that growth. The 50 Best saw it. That's how we earned it.' Having first arrived in Dubai in 2000, Atherton has witnessed the city's gastronomic transformation firsthand. 'Back then, it was a very different place. The produce was poor, supply chains were limited, and fine dining was rare.' Now, he beams with pride at what the city has become. 'You've got some of the best chefs in the world living here, running their own restaurants. The pride in regional cuisine—Persian, Palestinian, Emirati—is incredible. It's no longer just about imported luxury.' Atherton is particularly conscious about respecting local flavours. 'I use Emirati ingredients like burnt lime and sumac, but I don't try to 'recreate' Emirati food. That belongs to the locals. If you try to compete with someone's childhood flavours, you'll lose every time.' Amidst all the accolades and culinary philosophy, Atherton still has his simple joys. Asked what he'd eat for the rest of his life, he answers without hesitation: 'Sushi. But top sushi. Not supermarket stuff.' And the one ingredient he can't cook without? 'High-quality sea salt. Everything—from meat to desserts—depends on it.' At 53, Jason Atherton has built a culinary empire, mentored countless chefs, and earned more stars than most can dream of. But he's not slowing down, he says, 'You never stop learning. You never stop pushing.'
FACT
25-03-2025
- Entertainment
- FACT
Burj Al Arab welcomes celebrity chefs - and you'll be stunned by the stars
Join a six-hands dinner with Jason Atherton, Himanshu Saini and Saverio Sbaragli. Dubai is home to world-class chefs. Now, top-tier chefs are coming together for a special dining experience. Chefs Jason Atherton, Himanshu Saini and Saverio Sbaragli are creating a six-hands dinner. The dinner will take place on 7 April at Al Muntaha at Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, and here's how to get a seat at the table. Jason Atherton is behind a range of restaurants in Dubai. He has previously worked with legendary chefs including Pierre Koffmann and Pierre White. In 2023, he opened Row on 45, which went on to win two MICHELIN Stars. Himanshu Saini is instrumental in making Trèsind Studio a success. He is renowned for redefining Indian flavours. The restaurant has been awarded two MICHELIN Stars and a FACT Award for Restaurant of the Year in 2024. Saverio Sbaragli is at the helm of the kitchen in Al Muntaha, and he has been named Gault&Millau's Chef of the Year. He is known for his French fine dining expertise, which infuses Italian influences. He honed his craft under Alain Ducasse and Alain Passard. This is a rare opportunity to see the three chefs in action, and together in one venue. The evening takes place at the beautiful venue, Al Muntaha, which boasts Insta-worthy views of the Arabian Gulf. The dinner starts with a selection of canapés, and is followed by a nine-course menu. Each chef will present three signature dishes, including a dessert that highlights their artistry. Tickets are available now for the six-course dinner at Al Muntaha at Jumeirah Burj Al Arab. The dinner starts from AED 1,900 per person for food only. The wine pairing starts from an additional AED 1,400 per person. Check in with FACT for the best things to do in Dubai. GO: Visit for more information.
