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This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon
This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon

Sydney Morning Herald

time09-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Sydney Morning Herald

This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon

An admittedly smug Instagram video – the view from my hotel's ninth-floor rooftop terrace, complete with ravishing Eiffel Tower and peachy sunset backdrop – caught the attention of a trusted foodie friend back in Sydney. His words cut through my inbox like a Michelin-star chef's knife: 'This hotel has the BEST fixer.' A screenshot of the concierge's WhatsApp details followed, with a message urging me to reach out to a chap named Erwin if I have any spare meal slots. Spare meal slots? In Paris? The cheek of it. But the word 'fixer' had my attention. Was my dining itinerary in need of a zhuzh? It was time to revisit my gastronomic wishlist and check in with this Erwin fellow. The hotel's stellar record was easy to verify; a string of positive online reviews cite long, personalised lists of restaurants and tenacious checking for cancellations. Some claims were quite extraordinary; an offer to babysit as one couple duck out to nearby Musee Cluny. It's true not all concierges are so stellar. Some accept kickbacks. Some nudge you towards places that would only appeal to the most buttoned-up guest (our tip for gleaning quality recommendations? Head to a popular bar and ask cool-looking staff for their favourite spots). But the role of the concierge is evolving with the times, according to Erwin, concierge at Hotel Dame des Arts. 'The world has changed and so have people's expectations ... genuine hospitality starts with listening.' So, I start talking. All cards on the table. I'm frank: just how slim are our chances of getting a table at Septime? The last time we visited, Septime had been our white whale. Now, back again, we're willing to take any day – any time slot. He listens intently. I study his face; his brow is furrowed. He'll see what he can do – no promises, is the brisk response. 'I should be able to let you know by Tuesday,' he says, already looking slightly stressed. In the meantime, he makes quick work of another dining request; Racines, an elegant and very popular Italian bistro tucked in the historic Passage des Panoramas arcade. It's also fully booked but, mysteriously, he secures a lunch reservation for our group of four within 24 hours. We're delighted as staff lead us upstairs to a cosy private dining room, charmingly decorated with granny-style crystal pendant lights and mismatched dinner plates. Two hours zip by in a blur of excellent wine, fresh antipasto and rustic pastas; I thank him via a WhatsApp text. 'My pleasure, you were lucky to get this reservation at the last minute,' he responds. Over a few indulgent days, we enjoy many more meals that aren't (but ought to be) on my radar, guided by Erwin and his team. Sublime drops and decadent sweetbreads at atmospheric Parcelles in the Marais; freshly shucked oysters and champagne at Le Mary Celeste; martinis and gildas at lavishly appointed five-storey cocktail bar, Cravan; a sumptuous picnic spread on the Seine, catered and set up by the hotel. The next message I receive from Erwin is the one we've been waiting for, and it comes a day earlier than expected. 'Check your email,' he writes. Sure enough, Septime is confirmed for the following evening. What sort of concierge wizardry gets you a booking at one of the world's best restaurants at a day's notice? Later he would explain how he had sent a staff member out to the restaurant to check for us, in person. I feel a flush of guilt at the admission, though I also sense his pride at having solved the grand puzzle. 'In cases like this, it's about reaching out to someone I know well – someone who understands that when we call, it's because it really matters,' he says. 'It's a combination of preparation, persistence and trust. And of course, a little Parisian magic.' It feels serendipitous that my induction into the world of concierges should happen in Paris. Like many things truly excellent and a little bit fancy, the lineage of the concierge can be traced back to France – the word derives from the French comte des cierges (literally 'count of the candles'). Over centuries, as candle-lit castles gave way to grand hotels, the role evolved to 'keeper of the keys' – in reference to the literal guest room keys and, increasingly, metaphorical keys to the city. When a concierge works their magic for a table at Septime, they're tapping into a centuries-old legacy of French tradition, built on trust and a deep understanding of the city. You could say Erwin's a modern-day comte des cierges, still lighting the way for travellers, only now, instead of a candlelit path to bed, he's pointing us towards a veloute with truffle oil. And honestly, I prefer the veloute. The details Eat Septime, 80 Rue de Charonne. See Racines Paris, 8 Passage des Panoramas. Phone: +33 1 40 13 06 41. See Parcelles, 13 Rue Chapon. Phone: +33 1 43 37 91 64. See Le Mary Celeste, 1 Rue Commines. See Cravan Paris, 165 Boulevard Saint-Germain. Phone: +33 1 87 58 08 60. See Gourmet picnic experiences can be arranged for guests of Hotel Dame des Arts. See Stay Hotel Dame des Arts in the Rive Gauche has modern rooms and suites, an all-day restaurant Pimpan, a cracking seasonal rooftop terrace bar with Eiffel Tower views, and is ideally placed to explore Boulevard Saint-Germain and the historic sights of the Latin Quarter. From $620 (€350) a night. 4 Rue Danton, 75006 Paris. See

This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon
This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon

The Age

time09-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Age

This famed Paris restaurant was booked out. But I had a secret weapon

An admittedly smug Instagram video – the view from my hotel's ninth-floor rooftop terrace, complete with ravishing Eiffel Tower and peachy sunset backdrop – caught the attention of a trusted foodie friend back in Sydney. His words cut through my inbox like a Michelin-star chef's knife: 'This hotel has the BEST fixer.' A screenshot of the concierge's WhatsApp details followed, with a message urging me to reach out to a chap named Erwin if I have any spare meal slots. Spare meal slots? In Paris? The cheek of it. But the word 'fixer' had my attention. Was my dining itinerary in need of a zhuzh? It was time to revisit my gastronomic wishlist and check in with this Erwin fellow. The hotel's stellar record was easy to verify; a string of positive online reviews cite long, personalised lists of restaurants and tenacious checking for cancellations. Some claims were quite extraordinary; an offer to babysit as one couple duck out to nearby Musee Cluny. It's true not all concierges are so stellar. Some accept kickbacks. Some nudge you towards places that would only appeal to the most buttoned-up guest (our tip for gleaning quality recommendations? Head to a popular bar and ask cool-looking staff for their favourite spots). But the role of the concierge is evolving with the times, according to Erwin, concierge at Hotel Dame des Arts. 'The world has changed and so have people's expectations ... genuine hospitality starts with listening.' So, I start talking. All cards on the table. I'm frank: just how slim are our chances of getting a table at Septime? The last time we visited, Septime had been our white whale. Now, back again, we're willing to take any day – any time slot. He listens intently. I study his face; his brow is furrowed. He'll see what he can do – no promises, is the brisk response. 'I should be able to let you know by Tuesday,' he says, already looking slightly stressed. In the meantime, he makes quick work of another dining request; Racines, an elegant and very popular Italian bistro tucked in the historic Passage des Panoramas arcade. It's also fully booked but, mysteriously, he secures a lunch reservation for our group of four within 24 hours. We're delighted as staff lead us upstairs to a cosy private dining room, charmingly decorated with granny-style crystal pendant lights and mismatched dinner plates. Two hours zip by in a blur of excellent wine, fresh antipasto and rustic pastas; I thank him via a WhatsApp text. 'My pleasure, you were lucky to get this reservation at the last minute,' he responds. Over a few indulgent days, we enjoy many more meals that aren't (but ought to be) on my radar, guided by Erwin and his team. Sublime drops and decadent sweetbreads at atmospheric Parcelles in the Marais; freshly shucked oysters and champagne at Le Mary Celeste; martinis and gildas at lavishly appointed five-storey cocktail bar, Cravan; a sumptuous picnic spread on the Seine, catered and set up by the hotel. The next message I receive from Erwin is the one we've been waiting for, and it comes a day earlier than expected. 'Check your email,' he writes. Sure enough, Septime is confirmed for the following evening. What sort of concierge wizardry gets you a booking at one of the world's best restaurants at a day's notice? Later he would explain how he had sent a staff member out to the restaurant to check for us, in person. I feel a flush of guilt at the admission, though I also sense his pride at having solved the grand puzzle. 'In cases like this, it's about reaching out to someone I know well – someone who understands that when we call, it's because it really matters,' he says. 'It's a combination of preparation, persistence and trust. And of course, a little Parisian magic.' It feels serendipitous that my induction into the world of concierges should happen in Paris. Like many things truly excellent and a little bit fancy, the lineage of the concierge can be traced back to France – the word derives from the French comte des cierges (literally 'count of the candles'). Over centuries, as candle-lit castles gave way to grand hotels, the role evolved to 'keeper of the keys' – in reference to the literal guest room keys and, increasingly, metaphorical keys to the city. When a concierge works their magic for a table at Septime, they're tapping into a centuries-old legacy of French tradition, built on trust and a deep understanding of the city. You could say Erwin's a modern-day comte des cierges, still lighting the way for travellers, only now, instead of a candlelit path to bed, he's pointing us towards a veloute with truffle oil. And honestly, I prefer the veloute. The details Eat Septime, 80 Rue de Charonne. See Racines Paris, 8 Passage des Panoramas. Phone: +33 1 40 13 06 41. See Parcelles, 13 Rue Chapon. Phone: +33 1 43 37 91 64. See Le Mary Celeste, 1 Rue Commines. See Cravan Paris, 165 Boulevard Saint-Germain. Phone: +33 1 87 58 08 60. See Gourmet picnic experiences can be arranged for guests of Hotel Dame des Arts. See Stay Hotel Dame des Arts in the Rive Gauche has modern rooms and suites, an all-day restaurant Pimpan, a cracking seasonal rooftop terrace bar with Eiffel Tower views, and is ideally placed to explore Boulevard Saint-Germain and the historic sights of the Latin Quarter. From $620 (€350) a night. 4 Rue Danton, 75006 Paris. See

Of Course You Can Expect the Paris Ball Sofia Coppola Art-directed to Be ‘Cinematic'
Of Course You Can Expect the Paris Ball Sofia Coppola Art-directed to Be ‘Cinematic'

Yahoo

time07-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

Of Course You Can Expect the Paris Ball Sofia Coppola Art-directed to Be ‘Cinematic'

A portrait booth manned by Craig McDean, floral decor by Thierry Boutemy, and cuisine from impossible-to-book Paris restaurant Septime are among the intriguing elements of the Bal d'Été scheduled for Sunday at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Credit Sofia Coppola, artistic director of the fundraiser, who said she approached the assignment as if she were directing a party scene in a movie. (Her formidable filmography includes 'Priscilla,' 'The Virgin Suicides,' 'Lost in Translation,' 'The Bling Ring,' 'Somewhere' and 'Marie Antoinette,' for which Boutemy did the lush arrangements.) More from WWD Onitsuka Tiger Opens Champs-Élysées Flagship as It Sets Its Sights on a Century Chanel Supports Cinema Paradiso at the Louvre, Brings Sofia Coppola for Opening Night Chanel Bolsters Management at Charity That Empowers Women and Girls Worldwide 'It's a little more nerve-wracking that it's a live event because I'm worried if the dessert comes out late or something. You can't edit it,' Coppola said in an exclusive interview about the event, which will kick off Paris Couture Week. But she approached it with a clear concept: 'It's just my fantasy of what a summer ball would be. 'The idea is really to feel like summer by bringing the garden inside the space with the decor, and for it to feel formal and easy at the same time — joyful, too.' Asked what she considers the most important ingredients in a successful celebration, she added: 'For any party, just for people to feel comfortable, you know — great music, great food and wine and beautiful flowers and hopefully a relaxed atmosphere.' Her mood board includes images of Countess Jacqueline de Ribes, a legendary Paris hostess in the '80s, standing next to enormous bouquets. Another reference is the lavish Proust costume ball of 1971, hosted by Guy and Marie-Hélène de Rothschild. 'It sounded like a fun project, something I've never done before,' Coppola explained. 'And I'm happy to help the museum as a fan of French culture.' To be sure, the Arts Décoratifs holds a special place in her heart. 'I love to visit that museum. It's such a beautiful space. And my husband's band Phoenix had set up a studio there during the pandemic,' she said, referring to Thomas Mars, lead singer of the French pop group. 'They gave them a space to record their last album. So I would go visit them, and it was just incredible to spend time in that museum. 'I thought it's so cool that they support artists and music, and I would pass Napoleon's throne to get to the room where they were rehearsing. So I had great memories and when they asked me if I would want to be involved in the ball, I was happy.' L'Oréal board member Jean-Victor Meyers, who is president of the honorary committee for the gala, called Coppola a 'natural choice' to curate the event given her 'deep personal and professional connections with Paris and French cultural institutions. 'She understood right away what we wanted to do, and some of the references that shaped the event were already common to us,' he said, also lauding her 'very refined taste, and cinematic sensibility.' 'It made her the ideal person to capture the spirit of the evening, with elegance and authenticity.' In addition, Meyers and Coppola assembled an impressive list of famous Paris personalities, patrons and artists for the honorary committee. Meyers said Betty Catroux, Madison Cox, Athina Onassis, Paloma Picasso, Jordan Roth, Lauren Santo Domingo, Cindy Sherman, Mathilde Stern-Pointillart and Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch all shared their unique perspectives and personal experiences. Unique from other fashion galas, where brands typically buy a table and invite guests of their own choosing, the Bal d'Été sold individual tickets, and so the seating plan will be overseen by organizers. This dovetails with Meyers' conviction that a successful ball 'has to feel festive, and it has to be eclectic, bringing together people you don't usually see in the same place.' 'That encourages spontaneity and encounters,' he explained. 'So there will be a mix.' And the energy won't dissipate once the dessert plates have been cleared. 'We have a second part of the evening that Sofia Coppola also developed featuring a surprise performance, then a deejay and an after-party space,' Meyers revealed. 'So this sense of progression and discovery will be key to making the end of the night unforgettable, too.' In one of his first interviews since being named president of Les Arts Décoratifs, Lionel Sauvage said the Bal d'Été would help the museum meet its fundraising goals, since it relies on private donations for about a third of its annual budget, roughly 40 million euros. 'It's about celebrating art, fashion and design,' in addition to 'celebrating the families that help the museum, over generations in some cases,' he said. 'We have a strong group of American donors who have been donors for generations, and we keep on adding new donors. It's a museum people are attached to. 'We would expect the ball to get us to the upper end of our fundraising goals.' Proceeds from the black-tie affair — to be held in the soaring nave of the museum — should help the museum finance upcoming exhibitions, which will include '1925-2025: One Hundred Years of Art Deco,' slated to open on Oct. 22. While perhaps best known for its blockbuster fashion exhibitions dedicated to the likes of Thierry Mugler, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten and Dior, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs also showcases its vast collections of furniture, tableware, textiles, jewelry, wallpaper, art and design objects, glass, toys, advertising, drawings and photographs. The museum boasts one of the largest decorative arts collections in the world, spanning some 1.5 million objects dating from the Middle Ages through to today. Last year it welcome about 800,000 visitors, Sauvage said, noting that 56 percent of them are under the age of 26 and enter free of charge. 'So it's a very, very young museum.' At present the museum is hosting several exhibitions at its main site in the Louvre building's Rohan and Marsan wings, including 'Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Celebration' and 'Bamboo: From Pattern to Object.' Oh, and if you wish to be surprised about Coppola's outfit for the ball, stop reading. It'll be a pale pink dress from Chanel's haute couture studio. 'It's a dream,' she said. Best of WWD A Look Back at SAG Awards Best Dressed Red Carpet Stars SAG Awards Wildest Looks of All Time on the Red Carpet, Photos From the Archive: A Look Back at Marc Jacobs Annual Holiday Party [PHOTOS]

A Beginner's Guide to the Champagne Region of France
A Beginner's Guide to the Champagne Region of France

Yahoo

time24-02-2025

  • Yahoo

A Beginner's Guide to the Champagne Region of France

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa While it can be difficult to find a reason to leave Paris even for just a few hours, the Champagne region is one of the best day trips you can take from the City of Lights; you can spend the day trying out all sorts of French bubbly and still make it back to the capital for your late-night reservation at Septime. The trip from Paris to Reims, one of the three main cities in Champagne (the other two are Epernay and Aÿ), is surprisingly easy—just 45 minutes by high-speed train or two hours driving. Like in many other French wine regions, you'll want to plan ahead by making reservations at wineries and tasting rooms, and deciding how you'll safely get from destination to destination once you've had a glass or three of wine. Read on to learn more about when to visit, where to stay, and most importantly, where to taste wine in the Champagne region. This article has been updated since its original publish date. Many Champagne houses are closed to visitors during the busy harvest season, which typically spans from late September to October (though climate change is pushing harvest earlier each year). Sarah Iwicki, Europe travel specialist at luxury travel advisory Scott Dunn, encourages travelers to visit the Champagne region between May and June for a quieter experience when the vineyards are lush and green. Late summer is also optimal: 'July is busier with great weather, while August tends to be quieter as many Champenois take their vacations, with little vineyard maintenance happening,' she notes. Summer is the perfect time to take advantage of the region's famous bike paths, as well as join outdoor tastings that many producers and restaurants offer once temperatures rise. While hotels are typically able to help arrange cab services, Iwicki suggests renting a car to make getting around Champagne as seamless as possible. Weather permitting, cycling is another popular pastime in the region, and many local businesses offer bicycle and e-bike rentals. The Bureau du Champagne USA suggests choosing between Facil-e-Bike, Pedal 'n' Pop, and My Vintage Tour Company. If you're taking the train from Paris, the city of Reims is a convenient base to call home in the Champagne region. With stunning views of the Saint‑Remi Basilica and the Reims Cathedral Domaine Les Crayéres offers 20 intimately appointed suites perched at the top of Saint Nicaise, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Decorated in early 20th-century classical French style, no room is the same; expect unique wallpapers, embroidered linens, and subtle design touches that transport you back to the time of Louis XIV—without feeling cheesy. The cellar also features over 1,200 bottles of Champagne, so you can still taste from producers that don't make it into your itinerary. Roughly forty minutes south in charming Epernay, Loisium Champagne is a modern oasis complete with a Finnish sauna, steam baths, and heated outdoor pool. It's the ideal balance for those looking to offset winery visits with a spa treatment or two, and many of the rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies facing the surrounding forest, for a true nature experience. Also in Epernay, the rooms, restaurants, and 15,000 square-foot spa at Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa overlook the bucolic surrounding vineyards. Don't sleep in and miss the breakfast buffet, which includes a decadent spread of cheeses local to the region, as well as classic fare like eggs, muesli, and of course, a by-the-glass Champagne list with which to start off your morning. Avoid the temptation to cram as many tastings as possible into each day, and hold yourself to one visit in the morning, and one in the afternoon. The majority of Champagne houses require reservations in advance for tours and tastings. In Aÿ, the newly opened Champagne Lallier tasting room (bookings by reservation only) is a design maven's dream come true, complete with interiors from renowned architect Elodie Sire. The cellar tour starts in an antechamber that guides through the various steps of making Champagne (from harvest to bottling) and also explores how the house's approach to winemaking has evolved over the past century. Nearby Champagne Billecart Salmon prefers to keep its tour groups intimate, so it's worth making a reservation well in advance; once you're there, expect a stroll through a vineyard, as well as the opportunity to taste vintages tailored to your specific tastes. At Champagne Bollinger, explore the cellars and learn about the house's history dating back to the 1820s. Time permitting, it's also worth visiting a larger Champagne house. In Reims, the cellars of Champagne Tattinger are once again open after an 18-month renovation, with tailored tours including the Instant Gourmet experience, which features an especially creative canape and Champagne pairing. And Champagne Ruinart has unveiled their new visitor's center, Le Pavillon Nicolas Ruinart, which features a bar, a terrace, and an extensive boutique that you can peruse after a tour of their cellars installed in cavernous chalk cathedrals. In between tastings and spa stops at your hotel, consider making a stop at the Pressoria museum in Ay, which offers visitors a crash course to the terroir of Champagne, as well as the winemaking process and the region's history. Or maximize your time outdoors by tackling one of several hiking tours around the region. Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler The Latest Travel News and Advice Want to be the first to know? 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