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Business of Fashion
4 days ago
- Business
- Business of Fashion
What I'm Looking Forward to at The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025
When I returned back from maternity leave in March, I was ready to hit the ground running on planning The Business of Beauty Global Forum, now in its third year. This Global Forum brings together some of the most interesting, dynamic and inspirational leaders from across our industry, and creates space for thought-provoking, insightful and often arresting conversations that simply don't, and couldn't happen anywhere else but with BoF and The Business of Beauty. Over the years, we've heard from the likes of Pamela Anderson, John Legend and Deepak Chopra, and executives based in Australia, Kenya and Korea. We've explored themes from brand-building and M&A to longevity and identity. Last year, we also debuted The Business of Beauty Global Awards. This year, we've doubled the size of the Awards, with six winners set to receive honours on our closing night. Our speaker line-up is just as exciting as ever. We'll begin with a first look at our hotly anticipated second edition of The State of Fashion: Beauty report, produced in partnership with McKinsey & Company and tease out the themes, challenges and opportunities all leaders will grapple with in the next five years. From there, it's a tour around the world, with insights from the UK's Andy Lightfoot of Space NK and India's Anchit Nayar of Nykaa, before we host an illuminating panel on why the world is looking to Mexico as beauty's next frontier. We'll also hear from Melissa Butler, the inspirational founder of The Lip Bar, and explore the vital role that immigrants and refugees play in our thriving industry. On the second day, we'll step Inside The Industry, and look at how executives are finding growth in a cooling market. Founders like Point of View Beauty's Mikayla Nogueira will give us an influencer masterclass on brand building and we'll then hear from the inimitable Tracee Ellis Ross about her community-focussed line, Pattern. In our final segment, we'll explore the power of the beauty and wellness industry as a connecting thread. Content creator Sydney Towle will share her experiences of facing an online smear campaign while battling cancer; Yasmin Sewell of Vyrao will talk about reinvention. And Hailey Bieber, founder and creative director of Rhode, one of the world's buzziest beauty brands, will speak to us exclusively about her brand and exit journey. She will then be joined by Tarang Amin to discuss what's next for the viral skin and makeup line. I hope you can join us via the global livestream. Sign up here to reserve your space. This year, access to The Business of Beauty Global Forum livestream is open to all. To watch the livestream, simply log in to your BoF account. New to BoF? Create your free account here.
Business of Fashion
6 days ago
- Business
- Business of Fashion
Inside The Business of Beauty's Community Event for Industry Leaders in New York
Long considered one of the most resilient discretionary categories, the beauty industry is experiencing a slowdown — one that is impacting its biggest conglomerates and its hero categories. To navigate this new market reality, brands are reevaluating their positioning, channel strategies and their relationships to core customers. To chart these changes together, The Business of Beauty gathered founders, executives and entrepreneurs from across the beauty, wellness and financial sectors at Spring Studios in New York. The evening was an opportunity for intimate networking with peers and also featured an Executive Briefing — a presentation designed to distil The Business of Beauty's market-leading coverage into actionable insights. The Business of Beauty Community Event BoF's chief business officer Johanna Stout welcomes beauty founders and executives to The Business of Beauty community event. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ 'Everyday, everyone in this room is having to make business-critical decisions in a rapidly changing market,' said Johanna Stout, chief business officer and head of beauty at The Business of Fashion, in her opening remarks. 'The amount of information required to make strategic decisions has grown exponentially, as well as the variety of insights across consumers, technology and regulation that is required to remain competitive.' The Business of Beauty Community Event Leaders from companies such as Amazon, Elemis, Biologique Recherche, Dibs Beauty, Coty and J.P. Morgan gathered for an Executive Briefing from BoF's Priya Rao and Alice Gividen. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ To unpack the complexity and brief the executives in the room, Priya Rao, executive editor of The Business of Beauty, and Alice Gividen, BoF's director of content strategy, analysed and offered perspectives on the biggest beauty takeaways from the last quarter. The Business of Beauty Community Event Veronika Ullmer, Global Head of Corporate & Consumer Communcations, Partnerships and Impact at Glossier, and Alisa Carmichael, Partner at VMG Partners, in conversation at The Business of Beauty Community Event. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ Their discussion began with the evolving impact of President Trump's tariffs — particularly in relation to South Korea — putting an end to the decade of free trade that helped to spur US consumers' obsession with K-beauty. Gividen and Rao discussed the risks of cutting off access to innovation that consumers are not only accustomed to, but now demand. The conversation turned to the importance of a multi-channel strategy in 2025. Activate Consulting finds that the average consumer has a 32-hour long day thanks to multitasking across different channels — from TV and audio, to mobile, e-commerce, gaming and sports. Indeed, sport was identified by Rao and Gividen as a key investment for beauty brands that want to organically hold consumer attention. The scope of opportunity was discussed— from the rise and rise of women's sports, through to brand-building opportunities and first-mover advantage in hyper-local community sports like padel. The conversation concluded with a discussion around the opportunities and complexities of 'longevity' in beauty, as the industry's biggest conglomerates have been quick to invest in this space. While L'Oréal Group invested in the longevity biotech brand Timeline, Estée Lauder Companies has continued its longevity-focused partnership with Stanford. Rao and Gividen discuss the longevity strategies gaining traction with customers, but cautioned brands to avoid committing to promises they cannot fulfil. Activate subscriptions to The Business of Beauty for you and your team today, for access to in-depth reporting, competitor analysis and exclusive insights. The Business of Beauty's senior strategists are available to deliver Executive Briefings in-house, tailored to your business. Please get in touch here to arrange one. The Business of Beauty Community Event Veronika Ullmer, Global Head of Corporate & Consumer Communcations, Partnerships and Impact at Glossier, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Leilah Diong, Private Banker at J.P. Morgan, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Fara Homidi, founder and CEO at Fara Homidi Beauty and Delfina Forstmann, Brand Strategist at Fara Homidi Beauty, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event The Business of Beauty's Priya Rao, and Andrew Stanleick, President at Kenvue, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Margot Humbert, Head of US at Biologique Recherche, at The Business of Beauty Community Event at New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Alisa Carmichael, Partner at VMG Partners, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025 (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Jeff Lee, CEO at Dibs Beauty, at The Business of Beauty Community Event at New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Henry Davis, CEO at Sakara Life, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Shamini Rajarethnam, CEO of Rationale Beauty, and Polly Viska, Marketing Director at Rationale Beauty, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Ryan Piela, Executive Director at Estée Lauder Companies, and Roseanna Roberts, Global Trend Foresight Lead at Estée Lauder Companies, at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025. (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Jackie Dunklau, Founder & Partner at Aria Growth at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025 (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/ The Business of Beauty Community Event Tehmina Haider, Partner at L Catterton at The Business of Beauty Community Event in New York in May 2025 (Kevin Czopek/ Czopek/
Business of Fashion
22-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Tursian Builds Off Deciem Founder's Legacy
On the surface, there is very little that seems sentimental about Tursian, a new-to-market skincare brand that sells, among other things, a tube of Y-3 Youth Restore Serum Concentrate for the matter-of-fact price of $300. Perhaps that's an advantage in the current beauty market, with customers increasingly choosing value over vibes. The brand launched direct-to-consumer earlier this month with 20 products, each tagged with a letter and number denoting the product's benefit; the $300 serum, Y-3, is the third step in the brand's anti-aging routine, for example. There's also a line for brightening (R for radiance) and another for hydration (P for reasons unclear). Its high-science messaging is dense enough to be impenetrable, hence the easy-to-read numbers and letters. But there are few recognisable ingredients; not even a drop of hyaluronic acid. Its Y-3 serum is made with a cocktail of peptides and a muscle relaxant derived from the paracress herb. Then you dig deeper, and the feeling starts to flow. Tursian's founder, Riyadh Swedaan, was a former employee of the Canadian beauty brand Deciem, and more significantly the long-term partner of its late founder, Brandon Truaxe. Swedaan said that the brand name Tursian is a variation on a name Truaxe had before he moved to Canada from Iran in the mid-1990s. The brand's capital T logo has an intentional slice removed. 'Brandon is the missing piece,' Swedaan told The Business of Beauty. Skin, Deeper Swedaan met Truaxe in 2008 when the former moved to Toronto from Iraq for pharmaceutical school, five years before Truaxe would endeavour to launch 10 beauty brands under a parent company called Deciem. The entrepreneur's legacy in beauty can be felt not only in the continued blockbuster success of brands like The Ordinary but in his commitment to transparency in skincare pricing. According to Swedaan, he and Truaxe had long discussed Deciem's approach to a luxury skincare brand, which would be something technology-minded — similar to Truaxe's pet project Niod under the Deciem umbrella — but glossy, almost futuristic. Swedaan managed one of Deciem's Toronto factories, but left the brand in 2020. Tursian was conceived by Riyadh Swedaan and his partner, the late Brandon Truaxe, as a luxury skincare brand with supercharged formulas. (Tursian) After three years of toiling on the formulas and details, he is ready to bring Tursian to life in his partner's memory, investing handsomely in rare ingredients like antioxidant-rich Thai mushrooms or 'velvet seaweed,' building labs in New Jersey and Dubai and stocking them with the latest and greatest manufacturing technology imported from Korea, Italy and the UK. 'We don't include hyaluronic acid, or transamic acids, or alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids,' Swedaan said. Labour of Love Even understanding the notoriously high-margin business of skincare, where companies are likely to spend more shipping a moisturiser than what goes into it, Tursian's products are apparently, undeniably, expensively made. Swedaan went on a world tour of ingredient suppliers, maxing out his passport twice; he boasts sourcing from Mexico, Iran, Morocco, Tunisia, Switzerland, the UK and Vietnam. 'Every ingredient in the world,' he said, 'We have it in our formulas.' Some of the products in the line were almost too efficacious; Swedaan had to temper down three serums after their active concentration accidentally qualified them as pharmaceutical-grade. Though Truaxe is often credited with giving ingredients prime billing in every aspect of beauty products, from social media to packaging, Tursian still faces stiff competition in prestige skincare. Swedaan hopes to elevate the brand beyond the competition by forgoing commonly used skincare ingredients as a point of pride. Founder Riyadh Swedaan intentionally avoided commonly used skincare additives like hyaluronic acid in favor of more esoteric ingredients. (Tursian) But a more significant investment may be Tursian's 12,000-square-foot facility just outside Manhattan in New Brunswick, New Jersey, replete with state-of-the-art manufacturing equipment, such as a machine designated just to print the labels on the brand's square moisturiser jars. Manufacturing, formulations and design all occur in-house, with a main headquarters in Dubai, where most of the brand's 35 employees work. Tursian declined to comment on how much it has spent developing the brand. Swedaan said he has taken no outside investment, and is the sole owner of the company. He was one of the beneficaries of Truaxe's will alongside senior staff like former chief executive Nicola Kilner. (Truaxe's will was written months after the Estée Lauder Companies purchased a $50 million minority stake in Deciem in 2019). The value of his assets in personal property and real estate were estimated at north of $4 million in a letter appointing his estate's trustee. 'To build the brand, you have to make sure everything is under your hand,' Swedaan said. He has help in the form of Dia Foley, Tursian's vice-president of brand and retail and another friend and collaborator of Truaxe's, who worked on his pre-Deciem business Indeed Laboratories — and happened to live in his building. 'He would come down at three o'clock in the morning banging on my door with an idea,' she said fondly. Foley described Tursian's target customer as someone looking for 'solid, clinical results' who is not experimental in their skincare dealings. At the same time, Swedaan has the air of a mad scientist, his speech cycling through cosmeceutical topics at centrifugal speed. While his opinions on hyaluronic acid may be his own, others, like the focus on direct and transparent communication with the buying public, seem to be channeled from Truaxe. 'No school in the world could give you the experience he gave me,' Swedaan said. 'Now I can translate that experience into a product.' Sign up to The Business of Beauty newsletter, your complimentary, must-read source for the day's most important beauty and wellness news and analysis.
Business of Fashion
12-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
Charlotte Tilbury Launches in Mexico
A little over a decade after her eponymous brand first arrived in North America, Charlotte Tilbury is crossing the pond again. Tilbury's full collection of makeup, skincare and fragrance will launch in Sephora Mexico from May 16, the brand announced on Monday morning, alongside plans to expand into two El Palacio de Hierro locations and a travel retail concession over the summer. 'The global demand for Charlotte Tilbury is undeniable,' founder Tilbury shared in a statement to The Business of Beauty, written in her signature all-caps. 'Mexico felt like the perfect first step into the LATAM region,' she added. After Charlotte Tilbury became the number three makeup brand in the US, 'we felt we were poised and ready to expand into Latin America, and Mexico felt like the best place to start,' chief executive Demetra Pinsent told The Business of Beauty, noting that the country's prestige beauty market is growing at near twice the global rate. Pinsent described the brand's international expansion strategy: 'We launch in the most premium points of distribution in a market, and we keep our distribution relatively tight.' The full Charlotte Tilbury collection of makeup, skincare and fragrance will launch on Sephora Mexico's app on May 16 and on the retailer's website on May 19 before rolling out to 45 Mexican doors starting May 24. The line will subsequently arrive in two Palacio department store locations, including its Mexico City flagship, over the summer, with branded counters offering skin and makeup services. A Charlotte Tilbury travel retail concession will open in the Mexico City airport later in the year. Despite softening consumer demand for the prestige cosmetics that Charlotte Tilbury excels in, the brand is still a bright spot in Spanish conglomerate Puig's portfolio. Puig recorded an overall sales lift of 8 percent and net revenue of €1.2 billion ($1.5 billion) in the first quarter 2025, driven by its fashion and fragrance divisions and low double-digit growth in North and Latin America, according to an earnings release. Makeup sales dipped 4 percent in the same period. The new market also gives founder Tilbury an opportunity to connect with fans of the brand in Spanish, a language she's spoken since growing up in Ibiza, Pinsent added. Learn more: Exclusive: Charlotte Tilbury Comes For Her Copycats The makeup artist and mogul is taking aim at rampant 'dupes' of her best-selling products with a campaign called 'Legendary. For A Reason.' Editor's Note: This article was amended on May 12 2025 to share updated launch dates and a comment from the founder provided after publication.
