Latest news with #Timorasso
Vancouver Sun
31-05-2025
- Business
- Vancouver Sun
Anthony Gismondi: These Italian white wines will entertain you all summer
Last week, several Italian producers visited the city for the annual Tre Bicchieri, or 'Three Glasses,' trade tasting. This prestigious award is the highest rating given by Gambero Rosso, a prominent Italian food and wine media organization that releases an annual list of Italy's best wines. Industry experts blind-taste thousands of wines and score each with one glass for good, two for very good and three glasses, or Tre Bicchieri, for wines deemed the best, often limited to fewer than 500 wines each year. Most winners have a Tre Bicchieri sticker on their label. Given the surge in white-wine interest worldwide and the impending arrival of summer, I used the event to taste mostly white wines. The switch to white from red wine, while slow and steady, is becoming more of a rush each day. We recently reported that the Rhone Valley plans to triple its white wine output by 2030, and Beaujolais producers are talking about similar changes. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. The Italians have long made interesting whites that were seldom exported until now, but with soaring global travel and a New World market of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and pinot Gris in need of an energy injection, Italy has become a go-to white wine producer, especially for those who enjoy wine with their food. Today, we present a short list of Italian whites to entertain you all summer, but know that some go by a different name than the grape used to make them. Many are available in private wine stores; others are in B.C. Liquor stores. You can do some online sleuthing or ask your retailer for help finding them. • Timorasso — Piedmont: Timorasso is experiencing a renaissance, gaining attention for its complexity, aging potential, and mineral-driven profile. It was among the most awarded white wines in the 2025 Gambero Rosso guide, known for its floral nose, bright acidity and honey/almond flavours. • Vermentino — Tuscany & Sardinia: Vermentino, or Rolle in France, is having a moment as consumers find themselves attracted to its refreshing citrus flavours and palate-cleansing salinity in the finish. It is a superb wine for seafood, pesto pasta and anything with fennel. • Pecorino — Abruzzo & Marche: Pecorino has aromatic intensity and structure, but a similarly high level of acidity always balances its higher sugar content. That combination gives it more volume in the mouth, making it more age-worthy and complex. It's an excellent wine for the dinner table. • Fiano — Campania: Fiano di Avellino continues to impress with its nutty, floral character and richer, almost waxy texture. It is often labelled Fiano di Avellino, whose fans love its primary flavours of Asian pear, hazelnuts, honeydew melon and orange peel. • Soave — Veneto: Soave has slowly but surely overcome its bland reputation thanks to some quality focused producers. The Garganega grape is the key driver of a dry, crisp, fruity profile, pitching a mix of citrus, apple, white peach and pear. Think grilled fish, seafood risotto or chicken Alfredo. It is time for another look. • Lugana — Lombardy/Veneto: The Lugana wines were a big hit at the tasting, but will require a private wine store hunt. The wine is mainly made from the Turbiana grape, which follows the theme with its crisp acidity, nutty, floral and full-bodied profile that pairs wonderfully with lobster or crab. There you have it, and we just scratched the surface. Here in B.C., you can add Roussillon, Albarino, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Trebbiano, Gruner Veltliner, Semillon and more on the way. We only need warmer weather to open the patio and kick off summer. $21.99 I 89/100 UPC: 8033413003063 Forget the cheese, this wine derives its name from the Italian word for sheep, 'Pecora,' which graze on the golden grapes. The wine's intoxicating aromas blend wild honey and citrus with notes of almonds, pears with a stony mineral base and some Mediterranean wild herbs. In B. C, this is a terrific mussel wine, or you could serve it with a piece of aged pecorino cheese or roasted turkey. $21.99 I 90/100 UPC: 8010544110754 This respected estate, located on the island of Sardinia, focuses on native varieties. The vermentino grape comes from cool, hillside vineyards situated 190 metres above the Mediterranean. The nose is a subtle mix of floral aromas with hints of lemon and ginger. It features bitter quince and ripe stone fruit flavours, balanced by a sweet tangerine finish. This wine pairs well with seafood dishes, including squid, crab, clams and mussels. Start the party. $24.00 I 93/100 UPC: 681714160015 I tasted this on the heels of it receiving 96 points, a gold medal and Best in Class at the L.A. International Wine Competition. It opens with a rich aromatic nose and vibrant fruity palate. Notes of tinned pineapple, green apple and spice intermingle with sweeter honeysuckle notes and ripe papaya. The balance is acidity-led in the back end, with crisp orchard fruit and a wisp of Okanagan desert scrub. It is delicious and more than capable of accompanying richly flavoured menu items. Think of Asian dishes, local baked salmon or slow-roasted pork. Impressive. $24.99 I 89/100 UPC: 776545502148 Grown in Willamette Valley and processed in Kelowna at the CedarCreek winery, it has been fermented primarily in stainless steel (90 per cent) to maintain its fresh profile, with a touch of neutral oak (10 per cent) for added depth and a supple mid-palate. It is a very friendly version of pinot Gris with a 7.3 per cent bump of residual sugar that matches the acidity, balancing the wine. It is reminiscent of many Oregon pinot Gris that are always a more fruity than super fresh. $39.99 I 90/100 UPC: 8022888956011 Feudi di San Gregorio Pietra Calda highlights the Fiano di Avellino grape. It gains texture and complexity after four to five months on its lees with frequent bâtonnage. The wine has a floral nose that evolves into guava, mineral, citrus, quince and anise aromas. It offers green apple, mineral, lime and nectarine flavours in a distinct bottle, designed by Italian legend Massimo Vignelli. It makes it a perfect birthday gift. • The B.C. Crab Fishermen's Association and the Chefs' Table Society of B.C. present the False Creek Crab Fest on July 6, from noon to 5 p.m. at False Creek Fishermen's Wharf. This event features a Dungeness Crab boil by local chefs Vish Mayekar and Johnny Bridge, with beverages from local partners. Attendees can connect with regional fishers, while enjoying waterfront views, live music, games and family activities. Early Bird Tickets are $65 per person, plus taxes, until June 8, and include a crab plate, sweet treat and two beverage tastings. For tickets and more information, visit False Creek Crab Fest . All proceeds go to the ongoing programs the society puts on for local chefs. • The music is back at Blasted Church on their sun-drenched patio overlooking peaceful Skaha Lake. The lineup of artists is available on their website and runs every Sunday and a few Saturdays until the end of September. Chef John Burke will also have light bites and tasty treats to pair with winemaker Evan Saunders' wines. Saunders has been flying under the radar, but his wines are impressive and improving in leaps and bounds every season. Regular tasting hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; the final tasting is at 4 p.m. Reservations are available online or by calling 250-497-1125. $25.00 I 91/100 UPC: 696852197922 This particular Sauvignon Blanc presents a pronounced lemon aroma permeating its nose and early palate. Although there is a subtle hint of grassiness, this wine resembles Sancerre more closely than New Zealand, contributing to its intellectual and sensory charm. Midpalate offers a juicy, watery note that slides down easily before ending in a clean finish, preparing the palate for its next bite. It is an excellent choice for summer and pairs exceptionally well with any dish that benefits from a squeeze of lemon. Well done, JoieFarm. $16.99 I 87/100 UPC: 3760040432113 It is a rare wine that remains close to the same price year after year while seemingly improving, but that is the story of this humble rosé. Made by Jean Claude Mas, who is serious about wine no matter the price, this litre-bottle of juicy, fruity rosé boasts a pale pink colour with strawberry and raspberry notes that will charm you and your guests, especially on a warm patio. The Grenache, cinsault and Syrah mix has all the elements to deliver what Jean Claude refers to as 'Le Luxe Rural.' It's a terrific value that transforms any patio into a luxurious country setting.
Forbes
21-04-2025
- General
- Forbes
This Italian Grape That Almost Vanished Is Gaining Taste Traction
Vineyards in Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy The highest temperatures in Piedmont, one of 20 administrative regions that constitute Italy, are found near its southeast, around the city of Tortona. This land is renowned for agricultural bounty, including Montèbore cheese, Volpedo peaches, Garbagna cherries, Tortona strawberries, San Sebastiano truffles, Nobile del Giarolo salami, as well as pistachio nuts, asparagus, chickpeas and apricots. It is also known for wine, and increasingly for that made from the white grape Timorasso that verged on extinction but is now rocketing upward in reputation. Within this southeastern segment of Piedmont is an amoeba shaped wine appellation named Colli Tortonesi. At 303 square miles in area (786 square kilometers) this is the same size as New York city, although hillier and greener and with a comparative population density of only 1% of that city. The wine produced here is predominantly red from the Barbera grape. But that is changing. Since 2008, territory planted with Barbera vines within the Colli have halved—dropping to 1,330 acres (539 hectares) while those planted with white Timorasso grapevines during that same period have increased by almost 1,000%—from 101 acres to 1,090 acres (41 to 440 hectares). View of sunset from Vignetti Repetto in Piedmont, Italy Timorasso is a hardy and heat loving vine that produces delicate, low yielding grapes. These create wines that age well and also improve dramatically with little aging. This grape thrived in the Middle Ages, and during the 19th century its juice was sent to Austria and Switzerland to be blended with Riesling to create a sweet wine named Torbolino—meaning cloudy. For reasons that included the phylloxera louse—which decimated grapevines in the mid 1800's—as well as the labor-intensive needs of this grape, by 1987 only 1.2 acres (0.5 hectares) of Timorasso existed in the world. Fortunately, they grew on the property of winemaker Walter Massa, who along with other fastidious growers championed their comeback. Timorasso produces succulent juice with a wide range of expressions—from citrus to green apples and honey when young to more of a caramel tilt after a few years of aging. The current president of the Colli Tortonesi wine consortium is Gian Paolo Repetto, a winemaker who formerly owned an industrial engineering company. He described the current situation with producers of Timorasso. Tasting Derthona Timorasso wines in a tractor museum, Tortona, Italy 'We now have 116 winemakers in this little ocean of Piemonte to the east, with six valleys and 46 municipalities. We are waiting for approval from Rome for the Derthona subzone appellation.' 'Derthona' is the ancient Roman name for the city of Tortona, as well as for its renowned basketball team. If approved, the sub area Derthona appellation status would apply only to Timorasso grapes and would include three levels—Piccola Derthona, Derthona and Derthona Riserva with minimum alcohol levels, respectively, of 11%, 12.5% and 13%. 'If you have no identity, nobody knows you and nobody buys you,' Repetto continued. 'We do not want Timorasso to be too widespread. We want it made around Tortona and named Derthona as a synonym for identity. We have been good at spreading the name.' Until the name of this sub area is officially approved, many producers include both the existing and expected new terms on their bottle labels—Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. No doubt abbreviating that will be appreciated by wine producers. Winemakers in Colli Tortonesi rarely focus exclusively on Timorasso. Most growers also generate other wines—including Barbera, Cortese, Dolcetto, Freisa and Croatina. They also tend to other crops. Renowned winemaker Eliso Semino of Azienda Agricola La Colombera first planted Timorasso almost 30 years ago. Yet today her family also harvests chickpeas, wheat and fruits such as peaches and apricots. Colli Tortonesi producers of Derthona Timorasso, Tortona, Italy Timorasso also produces sparkling wine. Valli Unite Winery is a 42-year-old cooperative whose 19 members grow wheat and vegetables and produce honey. In their restaurant 95% of ingredients are produced by members of the cooperative and are used to create dishes such as nettle and dandelion croquettes, or artichokes stuffed with hazelnuts. Even wood for their tables is felled locally. One fifth of their 250-acre (100-hectare) holdings include vines, of which a percentage is Timorasso. From this they produce still wines, but also a sparkling wine that spends 24 months on lees and pairs well with local Montèbore cheese and honey. Most Timorasso is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. The largest Timorasso producer, Claudio Mariotto, generates a quarter million bottles a year—half of which include Timorasso wine. They prefer not to use oak or other woods to impact flavor, but instead elicit creaminess from their weekly 'battonage,' or stirring of dead cells (lees) inside of stainless steel tanks. Yet not all refrain from using wood. Enrico de Alessandrini, owner of Sassaia, learned his wine craft in Burgundy and utilizes their methods. 'I chose the Burgundian route,' he explained. 'Harvest in small containers, spontaneous fermentation with yeast on the grapes and aging in oak.' He believes that oak imparts richness and complexity to wines. More Colli Tortonesi producers of Derthona Timorasso, Tortona, Italy Timorasso is not easy to grow. The thick-skinned grapes are prone to fungal disease such as botrytis. They can also produce double or triple buds at bud break, which need to be manually inspected and cleaned. However, despite challenging seasons, successful vintages glow with appeal. For example, 2022 was an extreme year in terms of weather—the hottest in a quarter century and with low rainfall, while 2023 was considered a 'miraculous vintage' despite sparse rainfall in spring as well as summer, and temperature variability. Yet wines from both vintages can taste equally appealing, although different. The future of Timorasso appears to be positive. That the grape even has a future is more miraculous than vintage 2023. It resulted from recognition of its potential as well as the visionary hard work over four decades by Colli Tortonesi producers dedicated to their land and its flavors. Selected tasting notes for more than 25 Timorasso wines from three vintages are below. These wines either scored 93+ points or above, or are considered to be of 'Superlative Value ♫♫♫' according to my proprietary Vino Value algorithm that combines subjective tasting scores with objective retail prices to determine optimal purchasing value. Only wines for which cellar door retail prices were available were evaluated this way. Other wine tasting notes and scores for more than an additional 65 Timorasso wines are posted here on my Vino Voices blog. Azienda Agricola Iandolo Francesco. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 96 points. Light and fresh aromas that include gin and tonic, spring flowers, key lime pie and spearmint. Gorgeous combination of light, fresh and brisk acidity with caramelized flavors. Stunning amalgamation of softness and delicacy with darker burnt sugar flavors and nuttiness. Balanced, complex and buoyant. Winemaker Francesco Iandolo writes: 'I decided to dedicate myself to wine and, more generally, to a deep inner search.' It appears that his search has paid off. Vignetti Massa. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 95 points. From the veritable savior of the Timorasso grape, Walter Massa. A honeyed aroma profile melded with light citrics. Beautiful mid palate flavors of oranges, tiramisu, lime tart, marshmallows and caramel. Lemon grass acidity on the finish with slight menthol flavor. Stunning. Sassaia. De Alessandrini. Platinum. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94-95 points. €55.00. From Enrico de Alessandrini, based on Burgundian winemaking techniques that include small tray harvest and fermentation and aging in French oak. Aromas of honey, Crunchy bar and crème brûlée. Splendid flavors include toffee and Terrys All Gold chocolate as well as almonds and gingerbread. Complex and engaging. View of Sarezzano in Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy. Boveri Luigi. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points. Delightful honeyed Burgundian aromas include caramel, white pepper, honey and peaches. Complex. A beautiful assembly that is balanced, delicate, engaging and includes flavors of white pear, honey and slight butterscotch. Crisp acidity. Cantina di Tortona. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points. Aromas of butterscotch, lemonade, menthol and minerality. Beautifully soft, full, creamy and generous mid palate with an array of flavors—including spearmint, apricot, green apples, white pears and gooseberries. Complex. Pair with shrimp and lime. Cas'Al'Mat. iNTrO. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points. Densely layered and complex aromas of maple syrup, golden syrup, marshmallows, balsamic and tropical citrics. Remarkably suave and seductive creamy mid palate with flavors that include oranges, oatmeal and lemon tart. Cantine Volpi. Zerba Antica. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94+ points. Light, frisky, sparky, acidic aromas of a lovely matrix of mandarins and honey, butterscotch and butter. A beautifully balanced and layered wine with crisp acidity and flavors that include slightly buttered toast and marmalade. Engaging and well balanced. Vignetti Massa. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94+ points. Deep, dark, beautiful assembly of aromas that include toffee, caramel, marmalade and buttered toast. Distinct and deeply delicious flavors that include caramel, banoffee pie and pumpkin pie. Beautiful acidity. Claudio Mariotto. Pitasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2021. 94 points. €30.00. [Good Value ♫] Fresh aromas include green grass, limes, honey and brown sugar. Structured, supple, somewhat complex and lovely mid palate with flavors of apple crumble, some butter and butterscotch and honey. Fresh acidity. Pair with hard cheeses. Boveri Luigi. Filari di Timorasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94 points. Aromas of lime, spearmint and spritzer, as well as slight golden syrup and menthol. Honeyed delight in the mouth—a lovely and beautifully balanced mid palate with some citrics on the finish. Vietti. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94 points Creamy and acidic aromas includes green grass, spearmint and key lime pie. Well balanced flavors in a slightly textured but also creamy mid palate that include guava, mandarins, pineapple and some honey. Pair with scallops and lime. La Colombera. Santa Croce. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94 points. €30.00 [Good Value ♫] Fine filaments of aromas of spring florals, lemons and minerality. Flavors of a gorgeous caramel/toffee apple. Lovely mouth feel with honeyed flavors. Reminiscent of an aged Terlaner Pinot Bianco in terms of complexity and depth. Pair with grilled chicken that has been marinated in soy. Sassaia de Alessandrini. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93+-94 points. €35.00. 13.5% alcohol. Grapes are chilled after picking for 24 hours to soften grape skins before whole cluster fermentation. Round, creamy aromas of marshmallows, cider, apples, peaches, white pears and the slightest hint of menthol. Burgundian softness and elegance with a soft mouth feel. Romanzo del Vino. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points. This wine under screw cap includes full, rounded and pronounced aromas of marshmallows and candy corn, lime pie, green apples and golden syrup. Delicate and engaging mid palate with finesse and flavors that include slight smokiness, caramel and slight menthol. Cantine Sant'Agata – Franco Cavallero. Ciclico. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points. Pronounced and distinctly wonderful aromas of butterscotch, lemon grass, green grass, shortbread cookies, eucalyptus and spearmint. Different. Delicate, engaging and balanced mid palate. Davico Stefano. Regina. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso 2023. 93-94 points. Creamy aromas of a bucketful of honey as well as smoke, caramel and buttered toast. In the mouth this is elegant and creamy, layered, well structured, complex with toffee flavors and even a smidgen of Amarone and pine. Vite Colte. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points. 14% alcohol. Aromas of juicy fruit, menthol and honey. Complex, creamy and delightful mid palate with flavors that include white pears and tropical fruits. Vigneti Letizia. Stappasogni. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points. Complex and delicious aromas of honeysuckle, white flowers, honey, buttered toast and brioche. Beautifully balanced with a creamy but also slightly textured mid palate and flavors of fruit cocktail and some golden syrup. Rural landscape on the Tortona hills, Piedmont, Italy Fontanafredda. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points. Aromas of gin and tonic, key lime pie, guava and mango. Crisp and beautifully balanced in the mouth—an Italian breakfast apricot tart. Ezzio Poggio Winery. Archetipo. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 92+-93 points. Soft and delicate fragrances of spring flowers and mandarins. In the mouth this wine is light and slightly creamy and includes tropical fruits such as guava. Well balanced. Mariotto Claudio. Pitasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93-94 points. €30.00. [Good Value ♫] Zesty, energetic aromas include gin and tonic and lime. Attractively balanced. Attractive flavors—key lime pie meets banoffee pie and a pot of honey. Beautiful. Pair with white fish. Azienda Agricola di Gian Paolo Repetto. Origo. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93+ points. €37.00. [Good Value ♫] Bright and forward aromas that include citrics and salinity. Beautiful mid palate flavors of honey, lemon juice and gooseberry jam, with firm and bright acidity. Societa Cooperativa Valli Unite Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91-92 points. €17.50. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫] Aged in steel for a year. No filtration. Rancio style aromas include créme brûlée, butterscotch, orange peels and apple cider. Flavors akin to Sauvignon Blanc meets aged Pinot Bianco and include oranges, apricots, buttered toast and burnt sugar. Complex and well developed. Pair with an onion tart with white wine caramel sauce. Azienda Agricola di Gian Paolo Repetto. Quadro. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91-92 points. €17.50. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫] Quite acidic aromas that include lime and apple juice in this 13.5% alcohol wine. Snappy yet delicate and creamy mid palate flavors of green apples. Well enfolded acidity with slight toffee on the finish. Harmonious and engaging. Vigneti Repetto. Sarezzano. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91+ points. €13.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫] 13% alcohol. Fresh aromas of applesauce, white pears, tangerines. Flavors include juicy green apples. Creamy tannins and brisk acidity. This Piccolo Derthona can age five to seven years. Claudio Mariotto. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 92 points. €18.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫] Made from prime grapes selected throughout the 17 hectare (42 acre) vineyard from this largest producer of Timorasso wine. 14% alcohol. Crisp, acidic and linear aromas of grapefruit, green apples, melon, candy cane and lemon grass; slight lime and salt. Beautifully creamy and complex yet light and delicate mid palate with flavors of guavas, buttered toast and mangos. Tight prevalent acidity and a silky honeyed mouth feel with a lingering luscious finish. Claudio Mariotto. Bricco San Michele. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 92+-93 points. €20.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫] Citric and chamomile aromas in this 14.5% alcohol wine from grapes grown on their youngest vineyard. Silky, honeyed flavors with slight balsamic.
