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Yahoo
01-08-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Ashi Studio Couture Fall 2025: Getting in Shape
In the beginning, there was chaos. If those words spell the start of many creation myths, for designer Ashi, it was a rather discombobulating feeling as he began to work on his fall couture. More from WWD Supermodel Iman's Best Beauty Moments on the Runway From 1981 to 1989 At Couture, Designers Pump Up the Volume for Fall 2025 Metallics Shine Against a Black Backdrop at Paris Couture for Fall 2025 'This collection doesn't have a name, doesn't have a title and you know me, I always have titles and stories,' said the designer, who only goes by his last name. 'I didn't have it so I went to the flea market just to get inspiration and I started to just grab small things.' Embracing a magpie's approach, he followed a path that meandered from the Grande Singerie room in the Chateau de Chantilly and the boudoirs of London's Jack the Ripper era, gathering time-worn textiles, precious porcelains and even chinoiserie motifs. While all these would be well deserving of further description, given how they became intricate feather work and embroideries made of laser-cut mother-of-pearl fragments, it's another idea that stood out strongest. Sculptural corsetry, structures on display or on the contrary rendered invisible through moulage techniques were the keystone of a fall collection rife with hourglass silhouettes. But Ashi's eye for construction also yielded striking tailored jackets, an opulently embroidered coatdress and an asymmetric pantsuit with a spiraling fringe trim. 'The story is about the craft as well,' Ashi continued backstage. 'We always forget that and we go into a story about a concept; here, it's about the atelier, about the craftsmanship.' The impeccable execution of, say, a mermaid gown in beige tulle, its material leaving no room for approximation, certainly read as a paean to construction, craftsmanship and couture. Launch Gallery: Ashi Studio Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway Solve the daily Crossword
Yahoo
25-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
3.Paradis Men's Spring 2026: Circles in the Sand
Emeric Tchatchoua is on a mission to slow time, taking a trip to the desert for spring. 'Our main character is trapped in the desert looking for a way out, and is going round in circles looking for purpose,' said the designer backstage. 'In the desert time goes slowly.' Far from arid, his setting proved fertile inspiration for cleverly constructed tailoring that featured delicate rippled pleats evoking the movement of the sand, and tailored jackets adorned with diaphanous, sculptural sleeves embroidered with star-like crystals, evoking a mirage. More from WWD Attending Louis Vuitton With Mason Thames Beyoncé Knowles-Carter Shuts Down Paris Fashion Week With Grand Entrance at Louis Vuitton Études Studio Returns to the Runway as a Design Duo The opening look, a bomber in a patchwork of suedes in sandy hues, featured the brand's bird motifs and the message 'We are all travelers,' reprised through the collection on fun book clutches or woven leather shoppers. A graphic print of vintage watches featured on shirts and denim, and a heavy coat was embroidered with real-life timepieces. The more elaborate styles were contrasted with bright sporty tone-on-tone silhouettes with trompe l'oeil details and a series of airbrushed designs evoking the setting sun. Models including French Montana and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac meandered through the sand-strewn venue. The veteran French designer, who wore wristwatch-printed jeans with a neon pink tie and shoes under his trenchcoat, was playing the role of authority. 'I play a powerful character, a bit like Anthony Hopkins,' he said before the show, practicing his imperious face and admitting to a bout of nerves. He is an admirer of Tchatchoua's work. 'It's highly constructed and functional but very poetic, there's that duality. I love his sensitivity,' he said. The collection featured a number of collaborations this season, with J.M. Weston for the brightly colored footwear, Vilebrequin for swimming shorts and the estate of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, with well-known motifs from the classic work 'Le Petit Prince' featuring on shirts and sweaters. Launch Gallery: Men's Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
12-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Burç Akyol Fall 2025: Confront the Hard Words
For fall 2025, Burç Akyol declared himself a fighter against the stigma surrounding the LGBTQIA+ community and put a campy twist on those degenerative words he was labeled with growing up. 'The only thing you can do is make them become your banners, and then no one can offend you,' Akyol said backstage. More from WWD Most-searched Paris Fashion Week Moments: Prosthetic Boobs on the Runway, Doechii's Schiaparelli Dress, Julian Klausner's Debut and More Viral Fall 2025 Headlines Jenna Ortega Goes for Sharp Angles in David Koma Cutout Dress for 'Death of a Unicorn' New York Screening LVMH Appoints Deputy CEOs at Louis Vuitton and Dior The collection was ultimately drag, done in a high-fashion way, as he played dress up with the ideal female protagonist he had in mind. She seemed to be in power and has control over her body and her life. On the top floor of the Institut du Monde Arabe, the show opened with a long, geometric-patterned coat made from bath towel-like material. He then offered a slew of sleek, faux-fur-trimmed jackets and boxy tailored blazers paired with drapey balloon trousers or split hem cigarette pants. From the second half, the looks pivoted toward see-through, acid color evening numbers. The designer said his personal favorite was look 28, a sheer chartreuse blouse styled with a cobalt blue slit skirt. 'It's almost like wearing nothing. The liberty of that has no equal,' Akyol added. While the pieces, in reality, would end up in the wardrobe of some oil-rich ladies, Akyol said that within his position as a designer, he would like to voice his support to the marginalized groups in a world that's collectively turning right. 'We have all these things going on. We cannot talk about them. We're going to offend the market and our buyers. But we just have to be resilient, keep pushing, and not forget who we are,' he added. Launch Gallery: Burc Akyol Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
01-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
MSGM Women's Fall 2025: Tulles of the Trade
Tulle is a fascinating material: its stiffness, sheerness, and the way multiple layers create optical patterns when the light hits it. No wonder it's a mainstay of the couture, and even a key material for people like Alberonero, an Italian artist and sometime farmer named Luca Boffi, who does performances tented in multiple layers of colored tulle. More from WWD Afro Fashion Association Keeps DEI Conversation in Fashion Rolling Amelia Gray Hamlin Gets Edgy for Roberto Cavalli's Fall 2025 Runway in Dramatic Mermaid Dress LVMH Métiers d'Excellence and Thélios Launch Third Edition of Italian Craftsmanship Prize You can see why a designer like Massimo Giorgetti would be attracted to Boffi's work, given the lighthearted spirt of his MSGM brand. His fall collection included multi-layer tulle ponchos, capes and tops, or basic cardigans or crewnecks cloaked in a single ghostly layer. He also folded in the word-based works of textile artist Caterina Frongia, blown up on roomy sweaters, pencil skirts and shawls, which resembled easy-to-decipher eye charts if you don't understand Italian. Gorpcore was a third well of inspiration, which made for a hodgepodge of a collection, which sometimes looked like a more cheerful, colorful version of Balenciaga. Mixed in were some supersized faux fur coats, complete with furry boots for a Chewbacca effect. The low-slung jeans in colorful washes felt more on-brand, as did the crisp shirts, sometimes worn in double-layers, and sometimes trailing fabric streamers – a detail seen all over the runways this Milan season. The ebullient designer moonlights as a cheerleader for Milan's vibrant art and music scene – and emerging neighborhoods. He nabbed a raw subterranean space in the gritty, but artsy Corvetto neighborhood, which he prizes for its bookstores, museums and galleries. 'I like the energy of this area,' he enthused. Launch Gallery: MSGM Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025: Ramrod Shoulders to the Fore
Do you remember Esther Cañadas? Her demonstrative, prowling style of runway walking seems to be making a comeback, including at the MM6 show on Thursday night in Milan, where models slowly stalked the room, making eye contact with front-row guests — sort of — through their censor-bar sunglasses. Their leisurely pace meant that Ice Spice, who arrived 55 minutes late, could still catch the last half a dozen looks, while the rest of the audience had already spent 10 minutes appreciating the very fine tailoring on display. More from WWD LVMH Métiers d'Excellence and Thélios Launch Third Edition of Italian Craftsmanship Prize Hunter Schafer Pops in Pastels at Prada's Fall 2025 Fashion Show in Milan Venus Williams Embraces Shirtless Blazer Trend in Pink Suit and Kisses Partner Andrea Preti at Dsquared2's Fall 2025 Show in Milan They surely noticed vertical panels of silk lining fabric inserted in the back of some supersized wool coats and trenches, which could be gathered up for a more 'normal' silhouette. Enlarging and reducing wardrobe staples was the main idea this season, so there were also ultra narrow coats and suits with a fin of fabric running down the spine, reduced so much as to make it well-nigh impossible to close in front. Likewise reduced, jeans and dress pants came with extra seam allowance jutting out from the legs, giving pants a square aspect when viewed straight on. Other attempts at reduction, by trapping shirts and coats under tight tulle tops or dresses, seemed forced. This was a restrained MM6 collection, at times reminiscent of house founder Martin Margiela's celebrated tenure at Hermès, felt in the demure pencil skirts and boxy, austere tunics in taupe wool or camel-colored suede. Long leather gloves added a glamorous touch. Military shirts, lopped-off trenchcoats, cable-knit sweaters and striped polos were rigged with removable shoulder structures that gave familiar clothes a fierce, ramrod appearance. They looked cool and chic. Launch Gallery: MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway