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Yahoo
12-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Burç Akyol Fall 2025: Confront the Hard Words
For fall 2025, Burç Akyol declared himself a fighter against the stigma surrounding the LGBTQIA+ community and put a campy twist on those degenerative words he was labeled with growing up. 'The only thing you can do is make them become your banners, and then no one can offend you,' Akyol said backstage. More from WWD Most-searched Paris Fashion Week Moments: Prosthetic Boobs on the Runway, Doechii's Schiaparelli Dress, Julian Klausner's Debut and More Viral Fall 2025 Headlines Jenna Ortega Goes for Sharp Angles in David Koma Cutout Dress for 'Death of a Unicorn' New York Screening LVMH Appoints Deputy CEOs at Louis Vuitton and Dior The collection was ultimately drag, done in a high-fashion way, as he played dress up with the ideal female protagonist he had in mind. She seemed to be in power and has control over her body and her life. On the top floor of the Institut du Monde Arabe, the show opened with a long, geometric-patterned coat made from bath towel-like material. He then offered a slew of sleek, faux-fur-trimmed jackets and boxy tailored blazers paired with drapey balloon trousers or split hem cigarette pants. From the second half, the looks pivoted toward see-through, acid color evening numbers. The designer said his personal favorite was look 28, a sheer chartreuse blouse styled with a cobalt blue slit skirt. 'It's almost like wearing nothing. The liberty of that has no equal,' Akyol added. While the pieces, in reality, would end up in the wardrobe of some oil-rich ladies, Akyol said that within his position as a designer, he would like to voice his support to the marginalized groups in a world that's collectively turning right. 'We have all these things going on. We cannot talk about them. We're going to offend the market and our buyers. But we just have to be resilient, keep pushing, and not forget who we are,' he added. Launch Gallery: Burc Akyol Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
01-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
MSGM Women's Fall 2025: Tulles of the Trade
Tulle is a fascinating material: its stiffness, sheerness, and the way multiple layers create optical patterns when the light hits it. No wonder it's a mainstay of the couture, and even a key material for people like Alberonero, an Italian artist and sometime farmer named Luca Boffi, who does performances tented in multiple layers of colored tulle. More from WWD Afro Fashion Association Keeps DEI Conversation in Fashion Rolling Amelia Gray Hamlin Gets Edgy for Roberto Cavalli's Fall 2025 Runway in Dramatic Mermaid Dress LVMH Métiers d'Excellence and Thélios Launch Third Edition of Italian Craftsmanship Prize You can see why a designer like Massimo Giorgetti would be attracted to Boffi's work, given the lighthearted spirt of his MSGM brand. His fall collection included multi-layer tulle ponchos, capes and tops, or basic cardigans or crewnecks cloaked in a single ghostly layer. He also folded in the word-based works of textile artist Caterina Frongia, blown up on roomy sweaters, pencil skirts and shawls, which resembled easy-to-decipher eye charts if you don't understand Italian. Gorpcore was a third well of inspiration, which made for a hodgepodge of a collection, which sometimes looked like a more cheerful, colorful version of Balenciaga. Mixed in were some supersized faux fur coats, complete with furry boots for a Chewbacca effect. The low-slung jeans in colorful washes felt more on-brand, as did the crisp shirts, sometimes worn in double-layers, and sometimes trailing fabric streamers – a detail seen all over the runways this Milan season. The ebullient designer moonlights as a cheerleader for Milan's vibrant art and music scene – and emerging neighborhoods. He nabbed a raw subterranean space in the gritty, but artsy Corvetto neighborhood, which he prizes for its bookstores, museums and galleries. 'I like the energy of this area,' he enthused. Launch Gallery: MSGM Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025: Ramrod Shoulders to the Fore
Do you remember Esther Cañadas? Her demonstrative, prowling style of runway walking seems to be making a comeback, including at the MM6 show on Thursday night in Milan, where models slowly stalked the room, making eye contact with front-row guests — sort of — through their censor-bar sunglasses. Their leisurely pace meant that Ice Spice, who arrived 55 minutes late, could still catch the last half a dozen looks, while the rest of the audience had already spent 10 minutes appreciating the very fine tailoring on display. More from WWD LVMH Métiers d'Excellence and Thélios Launch Third Edition of Italian Craftsmanship Prize Hunter Schafer Pops in Pastels at Prada's Fall 2025 Fashion Show in Milan Venus Williams Embraces Shirtless Blazer Trend in Pink Suit and Kisses Partner Andrea Preti at Dsquared2's Fall 2025 Show in Milan They surely noticed vertical panels of silk lining fabric inserted in the back of some supersized wool coats and trenches, which could be gathered up for a more 'normal' silhouette. Enlarging and reducing wardrobe staples was the main idea this season, so there were also ultra narrow coats and suits with a fin of fabric running down the spine, reduced so much as to make it well-nigh impossible to close in front. Likewise reduced, jeans and dress pants came with extra seam allowance jutting out from the legs, giving pants a square aspect when viewed straight on. Other attempts at reduction, by trapping shirts and coats under tight tulle tops or dresses, seemed forced. This was a restrained MM6 collection, at times reminiscent of house founder Martin Margiela's celebrated tenure at Hermès, felt in the demure pencil skirts and boxy, austere tunics in taupe wool or camel-colored suede. Long leather gloves added a glamorous touch. Military shirts, lopped-off trenchcoats, cable-knit sweaters and striped polos were rigged with removable shoulder structures that gave familiar clothes a fierce, ramrod appearance. They looked cool and chic. Launch Gallery: MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
23-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Roksanda Fall 2025: Art and Craft
Roksanda Ilincic took to the skies once again, showing a collection filled with offbeat color combinations and oversized proportions on the 17th floor of Space House, the refurbished 1960s show venue in Covent Garden that has spectacular views — when it's not so cloudy. She drew inspiration from the late artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, who worked leftover, everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric, plywood and plaster into her large-scale works. In this age of sustainable fashion, and a make-do-and-mend mentality, especially among young people, Ilincic was spot on trend. More from WWD Penelope Tree Is Back on the Runway, and Will Walk for Fendi in Milan Stephen Jones Serves Up a Feast for the Senses for Fall 2025 London's Mayor Opens London Fashion Week Store The designer rooted around her studio and used leftover materials, mainly from her spring 2023 collection, to create the sculptural, abstract looks in the show's finale. Deadstock included melton wool (which she uses to line the inside collars of coats), paper, raffia, viscose and big, stiff squares of sponge. Skirts and tops fashioned from those floppy sponge panels seemed to float around the models' waists and necks, while ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats and tunic tops looked as if they were made from Silly String. Ilincic said she left those colorful fil coupe threads 'free and loose' so they could fall in all different ways and create different types of sculpture 'on their own.' The main collection had a similarly arty feel, with standout pieces including a sheer, floaty gown that was a patchwork of lavender, yellow and cornflower blue; and a lineup of lovely pink dresses, some of which were painted. Not all of the looks had such a light touch. Some of Ilincic's collaged creations were heavy-handed, including the dresses, headpieces and long belts made from layers of giant sequins that rustled as models walked. Oversize jackets with sheer black panels, and a fuzzy-backed coat, swamped the women wearing them, and looked almost comical at times. Those outsized proportions were more suited to the art — or sculpture — gallery, and will need a few tweaks before they hit the shop floor. Launch Gallery: Roksanda Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Adeam Fall 2025: Suiting Up With Japanese Nuance
Adeam designer Hanako Maeda chose to sit out the New York runways this season but her collection riffed on a big theme of the New York shows: women's empowerment through dress. 'It's 2025, so you think that we're past this moment of empowering women and all of these like prejudices,' she said via a Zoom call from her native Japan. I wouldn't say that society is like going back. But I really wanted to focus on this idea of iconic women and the idea of empowering women has been expressed through fashion.' Suiting was a big part of her collection but done with her Japanese sensibility. 'A power suit is something that's very iconic,' she said. Organza ruffles at the neckline of a gray blazer turned into a dress, twisting around the body, while other suiting was more classic but with double lapels and leather harness accents. Mannish shirting in pinstripes with oversize cuffs was twisted at the neckline to expose the collar bone. On the more feminine side, there were fuller skirts with small jackets that made a suit that exposed the midriff, or an oversize bow blouse over an A-line skirt. Overall, it was a play on masculine versus feminine with touches of toughness via leather accessories, like a great pair of fishing style boots, done chic. More from WWD Melke's Collaboration With Hidden Valley Ranch Takes Inspiration From Groovy Retro Prints New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party At her secondary line ICHI she further explored office wear through the lens of Tokyo street style meets Americana '90s prep. The lineup included tailored trousers with adjustable tab hems and sweaters with contrast-color embroidery, while a reversible jacket offered versatility, with a puff side and a more polished work jacket on the other. You could top it off with a waterproof trenchcoat. Maeda may take you to work, but in unexpected silhouettes and ideas. Launch Gallery: Adeam Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
