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Vogue
17 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
'Marc Jacobs: One Night Only!'—Revisiting the American Designer's Spring 2016 Show
She's with the band…. Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Editor's Note: In honor of Vogue Runway's 10th anniversary, our writers are penning odes to the most memorable spring 2016 shows. Today: Marc Jacobs's Ziegfeld Theatre extravaganza. Anticipation, suspense, and (when he was late, as he often was back in the old days before he became the promptest designer in the business) impatience—Marc Jacobs could stir up feelings like no one else on the New York calendar. It never hurt that he held the week-closing spot, rendering everything else a mere prelude. Even still, this Marc Jacobs show stands apart. Instead of the Lexington Avenue Armory, his show venue going back to the 1990s, we were at the Ziegfeld, one of the last single-screen theaters standing in New York. Befitting the location, there was popcorn and fountain drinks, cigarette girls dispensing candy, show merch in the form of souvenir T-shirts, and even Playbills. Before the Ziegfeld movie palace, there was another Ziegfeld, a playhouse famous for its musicals, the most famous of all being Show Boat. It will surprise you not at all to learn that there was no little showboating this September evening in 2015.
Vogue
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Soft Power and Serene Luxury—Recollections of The Row's First Paris Show for Spring 2016
Editor's Note: In honor of Vogue Runway's 10th anniversary, our writers are penning odes to the most memorable spring 2016 shows. New today: The Row's Paris debut. In September 2015 Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen took their American brand, named after Britain's famed Savile Row, to France for the first time. Although some editors, including Vogue Runway's own Sarah Mower, were able to preview the collection in Paris, the show and dinner party following were held at a distance from the capital, at the 17th-century Château de Courances. There, on the gravel paths that wind around plots of boxwood manicured into baroque arabesques originally laid out by Achille Duchêne, models crunched by guests seated on white-painted metal garden furniture sipping red wine. The Row, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of The Row Mother Nature delivered blue skies and full sun. The Olsens contributed a cumulus and a cirrus cloud, in the form of the first and last looks. The former, somewhat angelic, was draped, opaque and fluid; the latter, vaguely Grecian, was finely pleated and transparent, revealing a white bra and high-waisted panties underneath. Within the context of the sisters' fashion nunnery, this was a daring collection, midriffs were revealed by a one-shouldered crochet top and shirts and jackets that were worn open over bra tops. The Row, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of The Row The mood was summery and the palette was peak Olsen: black, white, gray, navy, and khaki. Enlivening things a bit was a mustard yellow coatdress, a gold-beaded mesh top, and, most unexpectedly, a coat made of a vintage-seeming floral jacquard, which would have looked right at home in the château's lavish interiors. Also signature was the style of photography; the models were caught in action, with some of the shots looking like candids. This show was a one-off, the Olsens didn't start presenting regularly in Paris until spring 2023, but it was a sign of the sisters' ambitions. The elevated taste level of the collection served to show that the concept of an American luxury brand is not oxymoronic. Yet this was accomplished in a round-about way; the location's distance from Paris, and from other designers' shows, underlined the sisters' insider-outsider status. The Rowification of fashion is an example of the Olsen's use of soft power and silence.
Vogue
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Why Fashion Still Loves the '90s—and What to Do About It
Ten years ago, at the launch of Vogue Runway, we published a series of articles about the '90s. Sarah Mower contributed a piece on the lasting impact of Helmut Lang, Lynn Yaeger penned an ode to grunge, and Luke Leitch shared his recollections of the decade's menswear (shout-out for warehouse-sale Maharishi!). In 2015, fashion's pre-internet years looked novel and fresh, and revisiting them felt illuminating. It was simple math, Mower argued at the time: 'All you do is take today's date, 2015, and subtract 25 (the age of today's rising designers). Result: 1990, of course!' Somewhere between then and now, though, nostalgia has become not just a passing fancy, but a de facto mode of being in fashion (and the world). A quick survey of the fall 2025 trends includes both 1980s Working Girl chic and aughts-era indie sleaze. But the '90s reign supreme, and with incoming creative directors at Gucci, Versace, and Maison Margiela, three brands at their It-iest in those years, the '90s aren't going anywhere anytime soon. A look from Alessandro Michele's Gucci women's debut, for fall 2015, when the '90s revival felt fresh. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / The fall 1996 Tom Ford for Gucci look that inspired it. Photo: Condé Nast Archive No doubt, the heritage-brand system is at the root of what feels like a perma-stasis. If brand codes were established in the '90s, it is reinterpretations and revivals of the '90s that we shall see. But it's equally a phenomenon of the internet itself, Pinterest and Tumblr included. As Kurt Andersen, writing in Vanity Fair in 2011, argued, 'Now that we have instant universal access to every old image and recorded sound, the future has arrived and it's all about dreaming of the past.' Indeed, as revisiting old forms took hold in other parts of culture—sequels begat prequels, the 1970s breakups of Fleetwood Mac members became Broadway musicals and TV miniseries in the 2020s—the formula has become more explicit in fashion. The year 2018 saw reeditions at both Versace, where Donatella marked the 20th anniversary of her brother Gianni's death by going back to the archives, and Marc Jacobs, where, 25 years after his agenda-shifting grunge show for Perry Ellis, the designer introduced a Grunge Redux collection.
Vogue
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Vogue Runway Is 10! Our Favorite Fashion Insiders Pick Their Top Shows of the Decade
It was August 2015 when Vogue Runway launched. Vogue itself has over 120 years on our little corner of the website, so we won't dwell too long on this double-digit milestone, but we didn't want to ignore it either. Vogue Runway is an institution, after all, the place to go online (and on our app!) to get up-to-the-second fashion show coverage and designer news, as well as an archive of well over a million runway photos going back to 2000 and beyond. To celebrate our birthday, we asked some of our fashion insider friends to weigh in on the decade just passed, by highlighting the shows that have mattered to them the most. For the favorite collections of curator Alexandre Samson, stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, sound director Michel Gaubert, and many others, read on. Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Stylist Photo: Filippo Fior / Photo: Filippo Fior / I'm an Adidas addict: I think the classic Adidas Originals track pants are one of the chicest things in the world. The traficotage between Gucci, with the stripes and the logo, and Adidas…I was obsessed! It's the thing that's driven me craziest in the entire world! Photographed by Corey Tenold You're stunned by the beauty. It's unimaginable. The cut, the proportions, like children's cut-out dresses. The shoulders are like flat clothes, with sleeves crossed, but they're actually worn by someone, Everything—the hair, the makeup, is totally sublime. I could have stayed to see the show three times, but it happened only once.
Vogue
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
'Just Point Yourself in the Direction of Your Dreams'—Remembering Virgil Abloh's First Off-White Runway
Off-White, spring 2016 reaady-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Off-White C/O Virgil Abloh Off-White, spring 2016 reaady-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Off-White C/O Virgil Abloh Editor's Note: In honor of Vogue Runway's 10th anniversary, our writers are penning odes to the most memorable spring 2016 shows. Up first: Virgil Abloh's runway debut with Off-White. Off-White was already generating significant heat—buzz, fascination, and yes, skepticism—ahead of Virgil Abloh's first show, which took place on his 35th birthday. The location, Galerie Joseph, on rue de Turenne in a northern corner of the Marais, looked like a Paris atelier crossed with a Soho loft. Small and intimate compared to what the Off-White shows would become, the contemporary space helped concentrate the anticipatory energy that was palpable as guests took their spots on the long rows of benches. Virgil Abloh Photo: Courtesy of Off-White C/O Virgil Abloh Abloh, at least at the outset, had his factions. There were the people who knew and admired him for his previous creative projects and/or those with Kanye West (back when the rapper still went by his full name and had launched the Yeezy sneakers earlier that year). Then there were the fashion insiders curious about whether Off-White amounted to more than its cleverly developed graphic ideas and cool, youthful style. Whether the real deal or hype machine, the show represented a turning point for the brand, even if no one could predict what direction this might take. Previously, I had met Abloh during the lookbook photo shoots—a relatively chill setting where the activity flowed at a drawn-out cadence. Now, backstage before the show, the scene was more frenetic, but Abloh appeared unfazed as he adjusted a model's blousy shirt that buttoned up the back or fielded questions from his team. His wife, Shannon was there, as was their daughter, Grey, who was likely around three years old and wearing floral-printed mini Doc Martens boots. I wonder whether she has any memories of that day…
