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Telegraph
4 days ago
- General
- Telegraph
The perfect 10-day tour of the Dolomites
With their jagged pinnacles, saw-toothed peaks and bare rock walls, the Dolomites offer some of the most dramatic scenery of alpine Europe. A Unesco World Heritage Site, these limestone formations were once coral reefs, forming into mountains when the African and European tectonic plates collided 250 million years ago. The result is a stunning patchwork of vertical rock and rolling meadows dotted with alpine lakes, medieval castles and charming mountain villages. This striking natural setting makes the Dolomites a veritable outdoor playground, offering a wealth of open-air activities year-round, ranging from sledding, ice-skating and skiing in winter to hiking, cycling and climbing in summer. Cable cars whisk visitors up to the start of well-marked trails, many designed to be hiked in a few hours, others covering a wide terrain with hikers refuelling and bedding down in rifugi (simple mountain huts). The Dolomites also offer a vibrant cultural scene, with some excellent contemporary art galleries and museums. The culinary scene here, too, is worth exploring – the cuisine is hearty, making the most of local ingredients such as alpine cheeses and wild game. Vines have long been cultivated along the mountainous slopes, and there's no shortage of vineyards – particularly along the Strada del Vino wine route, which snakes its way through the region. The Dolomites mostly lie within Italy 's northernmost region of Trentino-Alto Adige, formed by two separate entities with a very distinct identity: the Italian-speaking Trentino to the south and, to the north, Alto Adige, best known as SüdTirol (South Tyrol), where German is the preferred language. To the east, the Dolomites stretch into Veneto, home to Cortina d'Ampezzo, host resort for the Milano Cortina Winter Olympics 2026, and as far east as Friuli-Venezia Giulia. This 10-day itinerary is centred exclusively around the region of Trentino-Alto Adige, with the itinerary designed to give you a flavour for both cultures. It would be impossible to include all of the region's highlights in a ten-day trip, although you can easily add a few more days here and there to explore other pockets, from Ladin-speaking Alta Badia to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) and the spa town of Merano. In this guide Itinerary When to go What to book Expert tips Day 1 Rovereto & Pinzolo Head for the hills Catch a morning flight to Verona Airport, driving north to Trentino along the toll-road that runs to the east of Lake Garda. If time allows, trace the lakefront road instead, taking in scenic views along the way. Your first stop is Rovereto, where you can stretch your legs halfway to your final destination as you explore the excellent Mart, one of Italy's premier contemporary and modern art museums. The collection includes over 20,000 works, with a focus on Italian art by the likes of Francesco Hayez, Carlo Carrà and Giorgio de Chirico. For lunch, grab a bite at the museum's bistro then proceed north to the Brenta Dolomites, arriving in Pinzolo. Visit the town's Chiesa di San Vigilio to admire its 16 th -century frescoes depicting the Dance of Death, then check-in at the family-run Bio Hotel Hermitage in Madonna di Campiglio, or splash out for a pampering stay at Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti in Pinzolo. For dinner, try Rendenèr, a contemporary-styled restaurant run by a young and dynamic team, serving flavoursome dishes that make the most of valley ingredients. Day 2 Val Nambrone Alpine lakes and stunning sunsets Wake up in reasonable time for your first trek, one of the most picturesque circular hikes in the area that takes you past a string of glorious alpine lakes (five hours total). Drive to the Val Nambrone, leaving your car at the Malga Vallina d'Amola car park, and hike to Rifugio Segantini in about an hour and a half. Stop off for a refreshing drink or a bite for lunch, before continuing to the 33-metre-deep Lago Nero. Try and reach the lake as the sun begins to set – it's a stunning sight as the steep rocky walls and well-defined contours of the entire Brenta Dolomites range spreading out before you. From here, the route leads to the nearby Cornisello Lakes, from where you can admire the peaks of the Adamello-Presanella range, before completing your loop. If you're keen to experience a night in a rifugio, try Rifugio Cornisello, which offers half-board; alternatively drive back to your hotel. Enjoy an aperitivo with a view courtesy of Sunsets at High Altitude, which sees participants enjoy a pre-dinner drink accompanied by live music at designated mountain venues. Day 3 Adamello Brenta Nature Park Protected landscapes and picnics Today, you'll trek to the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park, Trentino's largest protected area, home to over 1,300 species of plants, with chamois, deer, ibex and foxes a common sight; brown bears have also been reintroduced. With over 700km of trails, there's plenty to explore, including the Bosco Val Brenta, thick woods of towering larch and spruce trees. Set off from Prà de la Casa, an agriturismo run by Matteo and Doriana who rustle up homemade fare using mountain herbs, and make for the Malga Brenta Bassa and Malga Brenta Alta, two ample clearings where you can sit back and unwind with a picnic lunch. You can take part in educational foraging trips through the woods with acclaimed forager Eleonora 'Noris' Cunaccia or, if you're up for trying something a little more unconventional, the Val Brenta is also home to eight natural wellness paths, including yoga, bare footing, tree hugging and natural Kneipp paths, with itineraries that can be carried out independently or led by experts. Come evening, treat yourself to a Michelin-starred dinner at the excellent Stube Hermitage at the hotel in Madonna, with a cosy wood-clad dining area set out to resemble a traditional alpine stube. Day 4 Trento & San Martino di Castrozza A medieval capital First, drive east to the picture-postcard Lago Toblino, with its 16 th -century namesake fortress and castle jutting out into the lake on a rocky spur. Take a gentle stroll along the lakefront promenade and grab a mid-morning coffee at Castel Toblino's café, then continue your drive east to the delightful regional capital of Trento. Spare some time to visit the Castello del Buonconsiglio, which affords lovely views of the medieval centre. History buffs won't want to miss the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Tridentum that lies below the historic centre, and which now forms part of the SASS Underground Archaeological Space. If you're travelling with children, make sure you visit Muse, Trento's Science Museum, which sheds light on alpine ecosystems and the geology of the Dolomites mountains. Enjoy a late lunch at Osteria Il Cappello or try Il Libertino, then continue your drive east to San Martino di Castrozza in the Parco Naturale Paneveggio, the jumping off point for treks in the Pale di San Martino, the Dolomites' largest massif. Overnight at the family-run Chalet Prà delle Nasse, enjoying supper at Ristorante Da Anita. Day 5 Pale di San Martino Via ferrata and rifguios The Dolomites' largest massif, the Pale di San Martino, is prime hiking territory, offering the most dramatic scenery of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio. From San Martino di Castrozza, a cable car whisks passengers up to Colverde, from where the Rosetta funicular cradles you up the mountainside to reach Rifugio Rosetta, the starting point for several trails of varying difficulty, some equipped with via ferrata. A particularly favourite is the 7.5km Riviera di Manna that winds along the plateau in under three hours, which served as inspiration for acclaimed Italian novelist Dino Buzzati's The Tartar Steppe. Experienced hikers could try the Anello dell'Altopiano, a loop that passes Rifugio Pradidali and crosses two mountain passes in just under five hours. For dinner, head to Malga Ces, a traditional mountain restaurant about a five minutes' drive from San Martino di Castrozza. Days 6, 7 & 8 Bolzano Wine routes and Michelin stars After breakfast, travel north-west to Bolzano, the provincial capital of German-speaking South Tyrol. As you cross into South Tyrol from Trentino, you'll notice road signs in both Italian and German, and you'll immediately sense the region's distinctive central European culture. As you approach Bolzano, join the Strada del Vino wine route, passing through exquisite vineyard landscapes where you can combine sightseeing with wine tasting. To the south of Bolzano, San Michele d'Appiano has a handful of great restaurants, including two Michelin-starred establishments, while perching above the town is Castel d'Appiano (Burg Hocheppan), worth visiting for its beautifully preserved secular frescoes and views of the surrounding area. Drive to Bolzano in the late afternoon and check in at Parkhotel Mondschein or try Hotel Greif; if you'd rather stay outside the city, the boutique Berghoferin offers a peaceful location. Savour elegant alpine dishes and Italian classics at Löwengrube, whose 13 th -century wine cellar houses over 1,000 wines. City culture and the Iceman Spend the day exploring Bolzano, one of the Dolomites' most beautiful cities. Start at Piazza Walther, the central square lined with pastel and butterscotch palazzi, and stroll along the narrow Via dei Portici. The city's prized attraction is the Museo Archeologico, housing the mummified body of Ötzi the Iceman, who was discovered in 1991 a few kilometres from the Austrian border. For lunch, tuck into local specialities at Vögele, a historic restaurant serving traditional dishes in partitioned wood-clad dining areas. Around mid-afternoon, catch the Funivia del Renon (Renon cable car) from Piazza Walther to Soprabolzano, which offers fabulous views of the city and the jagged, saw-toothed peaks of the Catinaccio massif. A narrow-gauge railway connects Soprabolzano to Collalbo, from where you can follow trail 24 to reach a viewing platform. Come late afternoon, soak up sunset views with a drink at Gloriette Guesthouse or Parkhotel Holzner, where you can also enjoy dinner before catching the funicular back to Bolzano. Mountaineering legends and beer halls Bolzano serves as the perfect base for several day trips, with plenty of sights within striking distance of the centre. Renowned mountaineer and explorer Reinhold Messner hailed from Villnöss north-east of Bolzano, setting up a network of six museums in the region that shed light on alpine landscapes, the history of mountaineering and mountain peoples. The Messner Mountain Museum at Castel Firmiano is the closest to the city; it has a striking setting, with a network of walkways and stairways taking you past displays and installations in one of the region's oldest castles. The views of the Gruppo di Tessa mountains are a delight too. Return for your last night in the city – try Batzen Häusl, one of the city's historic beer houses that also serves Tyrolean specialities; if wine is more your thing, head to Lisa Wineboutique. Day 9 Seiser Alm The largest alpine plateau in Europe Drive east to the Seiser Alm grasslands, the largest alpine plateau in Europe, where verdant summer pastures and meadows offer gentle trekking through scenic landscapes. Treat yourself to the stylish Adler Lodge, which offers warm and cocooning rooms along with an excellent spa. There are scores of hiking paths in the area, and there's no shortage of biking routes to suit all levels. Following your hike or bike ride, unwind with a hay bath, an age-old tradition from the nearby village of Fiè allo Sciliar that sees participants lie in a tub wrapped in freshly cut hay enhanced with aromatic herbs such as thyme, gentian and mountain arnica. Adrenaline kicks Spend your last day in the fresh mountain air on a scenic outdoor activity, whether climbing or golfing in the nearby Seis am Schlern at the foot of the Seiser Alm – you can also explore this high alpine pasture from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. If you're looking to end your stay on a high, try a tandem paragliding flight, or swoosh through meadows and woods on the Monte Pana Zipline in neighbouring Val Gardena. Enjoy a traditional lunch in verdant surrounds at one of the area's mountain restaurants such as Heualm or Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, before driving to Bolzano Airport or Innsbruck Airport for your return flight home. When to go Outside of the winter season, the best time to visit is between June and September; if you can, avoid the month of August when Italians take the bulk of their holidays – even the remotest of mountain paths can get congested. Note that many hotels and cable cars close after the winter season for a month or so, reopening in June. What to book On a budget Inntravel offers a one-week 'A stroll in the Italian Dolomites' package from £1,160 per person, including seven nights' half-board accommodation, luggage transfers, local travel, and route notes and maps. Flights not included. A 'bootique' experience Original Travel offers 'Bootiquing in the Dolomites' from £3,150 to £5,200 per person, including four nights' half-board accommodation, five days' guided walking, luggage transfers, return flights and airport transfers. The luxury option Cartology Travel offers bespoke trips in the Dolomites from £7.000 per person, including nine nights' half board accommodation, private transfers between resorts, six days with a private guide, activities and selected experiences at each hotel. Flights not included. Expert tips Getting around Renting a car is the best way to get around, allowing you to explore at your own pace, winding along scenic mountain roads and stopping off at sights along the way. There are good train links between Trento and Bolzano – Trentino and South Tyrol's main cities – and several services run through South Tyrol's main valleys. Otherwise rail transport is limited, with buses mostly connecting mountain villages. Clothing Make sure you pack appropriate clothing and outdoor gear, including comfortable walking shoes, suncream and a hat. Even in high summer, it can get chilly when hiking at high altitude – you should be prepared for wind, rain and even snow. Climbing routes Dotted throughout the Dolomites are via ferrata; climbing routes with ladders, rungs and steel cables. Some are designed for novices and even young children, although note that most are for experienced climbers. Place names Note that some locations have two – and sometimes three – names. In South Tyrol, you'll find towns with both German and Italian names. Bolzano, for example, is known by its German name Bozen, while the Alpe di Siusi is Seiser Alm. Some towns also have names in Ladin, a Rhaeto-Romance language spoken by some 30,000 people around the Sella massif. Air travel Several airports are conveniently placed, although flying to the wrong airport can result in lengthy transfers along winding mountain roads. Verona Airport is within easy reach of southern Trentino; Milan Linate and Milan Bergamo are good choices to explore the south and the west of the region; Venice is best for exploring the eastern Dolomites; while Bolzano Airport and Innsbruck are most convenient for South Tyrol. Free travel opportunities
Associated Press
7 days ago
- General
- Associated Press
Del Toro stays in pink at Giro d'Italia after first of two massive mountain showdowns
CHAMPOLUC, Italy (AP) — One down, one to go. Isaac Del Toro maintained his tight grip on the Giro d'Italia pink jersey on Friday, the first of two massive alpine days. Del Toro even managed to increase his advantage slightly as the Mexican rider edged closest challenger Richard Carapaz to claim second place on the 19th stage and precious bonus seconds. The duo crossed the line 58 seconds behind Nicolas Prodhomme, who claimed the biggest victory of his career on the Queen stage. Del Toro inched to 43 seconds ahead of Carapaz overall. Simon Yates remained third but slipped to one minutes, 22 seconds behind Del Toro. The stage featured 5,000 meters of elevation across five climbs — three of which were of the highest classification — on a 166-kilometer (103-mile) route from Biella to Champoluc. Prodhomme was part of a large breakaway right at the start of the stage, and he pulled clear of the remaining escapees on the penultimate climb up the Col de Joux to solo to victory. The French cyclist had a broad smile on his face as he approached the finish and he then sat up and stretched out his arms before putting his hands over his face, in disbelief, as he crossed the line. The winner of the Giro will almost certainly be decided in another mountain showdown on Saturday before the mostly ceremonial finish in Rome the following day. The penultimate stage is a 205-kilometer (127-mile) leg from Verres to Sestriere that features the beyond-category climb on a gravel road to Colle delle Finestre, where Chris Froome's audacious attack in 2018 earned him the title. ___ AP cycling:
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Travel + Leisure
19-05-2025
- Travel + Leisure
This Swiss Village Can Only be Reached by Train or the World's Steepest Gondola—and It's Home to Stunning Waterfalls and a 360-degree Rotating Mountaintop Restaurant
Check into the Hotel Mürren Palace, where European elites once danced in the ballroom. Savor a mountaintop brunch at the rotating Piz Gloria restaurant, which offers 360-degree mountain views. Ski at the birthplace of downhill and slalom racing. Walk the Flower Trail to admire more than 150 different alpine blooms. Ride the world's steepest cable car, where the trip down is even more thrilling than the ascent. Switzerland's narrow Lauterbrunnen Valley is flanked by steep mountains, making it feel more like a deep, tree-speckled canyon. Partway up one of these lofty peaks, above a sheer rock face, lies Mürren, a historic mountain village you can only reach by train or via the world's steepest gondola. Cars aren't permitted in Mürren, where the air is as clean as the surroundings are breathtaking. 'We are sitting on a gemstone here,' Constanze Trommer, owner of Café Liv, the town's morning hub, tells Travel + Leisure . 'Nature-wise, you have everything you need. You have mountains, you have forests, you have water all around.' On the latter, Trommer is referring to the valley's many lakes and waterfalls, including Switzerland's highest, the 1,370-foot-tall Mürrenbach Falls. Across the slender valley from Mürren, the iconic mountain trio of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau stand watch over the town. Although Mürren hosted the first FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, the global event outgrew the small village, so skiing here today remains less crowded than at many alpine resorts. The car-free lanes also mean you can slide or snowshoe right up to your hotel. 'You can ski-in, ski-out in all of Mürren because we have snow-covered streets until the end of February,' says Samuel Bichsel, general manager of the Hotel Mürren Palace. In summer, hiking paths traverse flower-bedecked meadows and wend through quiet forests of fir and spruce. All year, gondolas whisk you up to the Schilthorn station, which is topped by a revolving restaurant where you can have breakfast in the sky, surrounded by 200 mountain peaks. A guest suite in Hotel Eiger Mürren. Hotel Eiger Mürren is operated by the same family who built it in 1892, a year after the railway opened to offer an alternative to arriving on foot. The service remains as warm and friendly as ever, while the timber-rich decor and photographs of old Mürren evoke a modern ski lodge. Book a mountain-facing room for an unforgettable view. When it first opened in 1874, countrymen called this grand hotel 'Switzerland's first palace.' Reopened in December 2024 after a long closure, Mürren Palace recalls those days again. The onetime ballroom is now a breakfast hall with belle époque vibes, and the refurbished guest rooms feature parquet floors, colorful furnishings, and beautiful views. Hotel Edelweiss Mürren is a classic Swiss hotel: impeccably clean, with a healthy breakfast buffet, and dominated by white and wood. The white walls and cozy bedding are accented by knotty-pine ceilings and bed frames. Since the Edelweiss rests just above the Mürren cliff, you'll awaken to the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau triumvirate, delighting you even before you have that tasty breakfast. Located by the gondola that whisks visitors up the mountain, Hotel Alpenruh is the ultimate ski-friendly hotel. That said, the property's expansive terrace has sweeping vistas and is ideal for lunch on a summer day. Inside, welcoming guest rooms come with a petite balcony or rustic cowhide rugs. Cows grazing in front of Trummelbach Falls. Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure Visit in January for the Inferno, 'the longest downhill race in the world.' British skier Sir Arnold Lunn founded the Kandahar Ski Club in Mürren and oversaw the first FIS Alpine World Ski Championships. 'But since Mürren was too small [for future world cup races], Lunn decided to promote the Inferno as a race for amateurs,' explains travel writer Adam Ruck. Snow permitting, the Inferno runs for 9.25 miles; if you want to sign up, the 1,850 spots fill up by September. Stroll the well-tended Flower Trail, reached via the Allmendhubel funicular. 'All the flowers are growing in June, July, and August. The altitude makes it last,' says Trommer. 'You have many flowers, like edelweiss, johanniskraut (a.k.a. St. John's wort), and blue gentian.' Brave the Mürren-Gimmelwald via ferrata, open from mid-June to October. 'It's special because it's the only via ferrata that goes downward, not up … There's also a huge suspension bridge,' says Bichsel. The dizzying, 1.4-mile descent on ladders, a cliff-hugging platform, and a wiggly bridge takes about three hours. If you book a guide, you can add a zip line to your downhill adventure. In 30 minutes, the Stechelberg gondola and bus connection take you to this geologic wonder. 'It's really impressive because you have 10 different waterfalls that go inside the mountain,' says Bichsel. With all that water—up to 5,000 gallons per second—Bichsel says, 'It's quite loud.' Given the noise level, children under four aren't allowed. Travel by rail up to Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe, at 11,332 feet above sea level. 'Going by train through the actual mountain is quite impressive. And when you get to the Sphinx Observatory, you can walk to the Mönchsjochhütte, a mountain cabin,' says Eva Leenders, receptionist at the Hotel Alpenruh. Leenders cautions that, with the altitude, the walk can take over an hour. Breakfast at the restaurant in Hotel Eiger Mürren. 'If you're looking for a traditional Swiss mountain village place, that would be Restaurant Stägerstübli,' says Leenders. 'The chef is very good at all the meat-related dishes, and, of course, they also have fondue.' Located in a 1901 building, Stägerstübli also serves excellent rösti , grated hash-brown-style potatoes served with cheese or a fried egg—a hearty way to refuel after a day in the snow. For an elegant dinner, book a table by the window at the restaurant in Hotel Eiger Mürren, where dishes highlight local ingredients like Vaud province cheese and soup made with Lauterbrunnen Valley pumpkins. The rich, meat-forward menu also has some lighter options like vegetarian curry. The Eiger's Tächi Bar is Mürren's best place for an after-dinner digestif. Trommer recommends the dining room at Hotel Regina Mürren for its decor, food, and service. 'It's a historical building,' says Trommer. 'They have excellent food and an excellent team. The dinner menu changes daily, with a vegetarian and meat option. It's very fresh, very seasonal—that's their model.' The Schilthorn gondola whizzes you up to this revolving restaurant, which served as the villain's lair in the 1969 James Bond classic 'On Her Majesty's Secret Service.' 'If you would like to have a spectacular breakfast, this will be a good one,' says Leenders. 'It takes 45 minutes to turn 360 degrees. You see the whole mountain range. On a good day, you can even see Mont Blanc.' Choose from the extensive breakfast or lunch buffet, or order a la carte. Gondelbar means gondola bar, and this cozy watering hole just above the Hotel Jungfrau is literally an old gondola converted into a bar. Bichsel recommends warming up with his favorite post-ski elixir: 'I like the Münzen Zwetschge—mint tea with schnapps.' For a cozy pre-dinner drink and nibble—what Swiss Germans call an apéro —Trommer recommends Alti Metzg. It's a gourmet deli with a cozy cellar where you can share a bottle of wine and a plate of locally sourced bread and charcuterie. 'They close at 7 p.m., so it's perfect for before dinner,' Trommer adds. A tennis court in Murren overlooking the Swiss Alps. Michela Sieman/Travel + Leisure The ski season in Mürren starts in December and was still going strong when I visited in April, but you should arrive by March to ensure adequate snow coverage. Although many Mürren residents first come for the winter, they fall in love with the summer. 'Winter used to be my favorite season because I love to ski. Now, I love the summer … the mix of seasons is the coolest thing about it,' says Bichsel. Between late May and September, you can go hiking, mountain biking, and even paragliding. You also have more hours to sit outside and simply admire the mountain views late into the evening. While Mürren has fewer crowds in spring and fall, note that most hotels and restaurants close for a few weeks after Easter and again in October and November. A passenger taking photos from the Jungfrau to Mürren is part of the fun. Arrive by train into the town of Lauterbrunnen in the valley of the same name. From there, you can take the Grütschalpbahn gondola and transfer to a train to Mürren. For more of a thrill, choose option two: Take a bus from Lauterbrunnen to the Stechelberg gondola, which travels nearly straight up for four minutes before arriving in Mürren. If you have a car, you can park in Lauterbrunnen or Stechelberg.
News.com.au
14-05-2025
- News.com.au
Australia's most epic ski resorts
From family friendly slopes to world class alpine resorts, these are Australia's best ski locations across NSW and VIC.
