Latest news with #seafood
Telegraph
an hour ago
- Business
- Telegraph
Restaurants remove ‘king of fish' from menus as prices soar
Chefs are being forced to take the so-called king of fish off their menus, as the soaring price of seafood makes it virtually impossible to turn a profit. Treasured for its succulent flesh and superior flavour, turbot has long been considered among the finest fishes on restaurant menus. Yet it is becoming a rare option for diners following steep increases in the cost of fish and seafood. Tommy Banks, chef patron of Michelin-starred restaurants The Black Swan and Roots, both in Yorkshire, said: 'It's the king of the sea, a beautiful fish. Pre-pandemic, I paid £18 per kilo. Now it can be as much as £65. 'You can't afford to put it on the menu. And if you do… the amount you'd have to charge for it. There's just no value whatsoever. There really isn't cheap or cheaper fish any more. But turbot in particular is just outrageous, and you can't afford to use it.' Mr Banks recently hosted a tasting night at his restaurant Roots where one of the dishes included turbot. However, he said: 'I was giving a 60g sliver, literally a sliver [to diners]. We were like 'Well, we need to make turbot the smallest [dish] because it's so expensive'. It was costing £9 for 60g of fillet.' Adrian Nunn, director of The Upper Scale, which sells fish to consumers and restaurants in London, said many restaurants had stopped ordering turbot altogether, and were using more affordable alternatives – like Dover sole. He said: 'I don't think I've got one restaurant using turbot. They used to and they've stopped, they can't afford to.' Traditional fish prices have also hiked Seafood prices have soared across in recent years, with produce such as langoustines also becoming unsustainable to serve in restaurants. Mr Banks said: 'Some of these really luxury ingredients – like turbot, langoustine, lobster, caviar and truffle – you'll only really find in Mayfair now.' However, Mr Nunn added: 'It's not just the prime fish, It's all fish, whether it's frozen or whether it's sardines, mackerel, whether it's turbot, Dover soles, it's all gone up.' Traditional fish suppers have been hit too. According to the Office for National Statistics, the price of a kilogram of white fish fillets has risen by more than 28pc in the three years to January 2025 to hit £20.59. Inflation in fish and seafood has been blamed on steep rises in the cost of labour, shipping and energy – keeping fish chilled or frozen is particularly energy intensive – and the reduction of fishing quotas by international governments. Laky Zervudachi at fish wholesaler Direct Seafoods, added: 'This year we have seen increasing inflationary pressure on virtually all species of seafood, whether it be simple staples like cod and haddock, to the more exclusive species like scallops and lobsters. 'As always, there are many factors that combine to create these increases, not least are a number of precautionary measures that have been taken by international bodies to help preserve fishing stocks around the world.' Adding to pressure is increased demand for fish from Spanish and French buyers, which has driven up the price for British firms, Mr Nunn said. He said: 'We buy in North of England, because there's not so many Spanish and French buyers up there. They'll just outbid us. We'd love to buy turbot at £10 per kilo, but they'll pay £20, £25, £30 so that's it.'
The Guardian
an hour ago
- Lifestyle
- The Guardian
How to make clam chowder – recipe
I ate a lot of clam chowder in Massachusetts last summer. Thick and comfortingly creamy, it might feel a tad wintry were it not for the sweet, briny clams, which sing of sea breezes and sunshine. Though the name derives from the French chaudière, or cauldron, chowder is New England through and through, and best eaten in the fresh air, whether that's in Cape Cod or Capel-le-Ferne. Prep 40 min Soak 20 minCook 30 min Serves 4 2kg live clams, or defrosted in-shell frozen clamsSalt and black pepper200g thick unsmoked bacon, or pancetta1 onion 2 medium waxy potatoes 1 bay leaf 2 tbsp plain flour 150ml double or whipping cream A knob of butter Though they're abundant along our coastline, clams aren't terribly popular in this country. Fishmongers and some supermarkets (eg Morrisons) often have live clams; they can also be found online, and in the freezer section of bigger supermarkets and in Asian food stores. Unfortunately, US-style tinned clams in juice aren't that widely available in the UK, and seeing as it's those cooking juices that make this dish, Italian jarred clams in brine don't really work here. To prepare the clams, discard any with broken shells and give the rest a good scrub. If using live clams, rather than frozen and defrosted ones, put them in a large bowl or sink, fill with very salty (like the sea) water and soak for at least 20 minutes to filter out any sand. Repeat if necessary, but I've never had to do this. Drain the clams, get rid of any grit they've ejected, then put them in a large bowl or sink of fresh water to expunge any excess salt while you prepare the remaining ingredients. If you're using defrosted frozen raw clams, give the shells a quick onceover for cleanliness and skip to step 4. Cut the bacon into smallish dice – unsmoked is traditional here, and smoked will give the dish an entirely different flavour profile. Either way, try to use thick-cut bacon, because those wafer-thin rashers increasingly favoured by supermarkets tend to disappear in soup. Peel and finely chop the onion, and wash and chop the potatoes into roughly 1cm dice (no need to peel them first, unless they're particularly filthy). Drain the clams, then put them in a large pan with 600ml water. Cover, bring to a boil, cook until they're all open, then tip into a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid. When the clams are cool enough to handle, take the meat out of the shells (discard any that remain resolutely shut tight). You probably won't need to chop the picked clams, because those sold in this country tend to be far smaller than American ones, but roughly chop the clams if any are on the large side. Strain the clam cooking liquor through a couple of layers of paper towel (or cheesecloth), then measure it and add enough water to bring it up to 1.2 litres. Put a medium saucepan on a medium heat, then gently fry the bacon in its own fat until it begins to render. Add the onion, fry until soft, then turn up the heat slightly. Once both the onion and bacon are beginning to colour, add the bay leaf and flour, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Pour in the clam liquid bit by bit, stirring to dissolve the flour, then add the chopped potatoes and simmer for about 10 minutes, until tender. Stir in the cream, clams and butter. Season to taste with salt, if necessary, and plenty of black pepper, then serve immediately, ideally with a large hunk of bread (or if you're on the US west coast, in a sourdough bowl). If you're making the soup base ahead of time, don't add the clams (or the cream and butter, for that matter) until you reheat the base, because overcooking will make the clams rubbery (keep the meat in the fridge until needed). Similarly, if you know you've made too much base, freeze the excess before adding the clams and dairy to the pot (you can freeze the clam meat separately). Felicity Cloake's new book, Peach Street to Lobster Lane: Coast to Coast in Search of Real American Cuisine, is published next week by HarperCollins at £16.99. To order a copy for £15.29 go to
Forbes
14 hours ago
- Lifestyle
- Forbes
79 Spectacular Dishes From Restaurants Worldwide For Seafood Month
Uni in Kanazawa A_RESTAURANT Here are a list of seafood dishes around the world to inspire your taste buds for National Seafood Month! From Crystal Cruises' luxurious Nobu-style black cod to Wymara Resort's Caribbean seafood claypot in Turks & Caicos, and from Soho Beach House Canouan's snapper bluff to Umi Uma's refined tuna tataki, these dishes showcase the art of seafood on a global stage. Whether it's a bold curry, delicate crudo, or a classic preparation with a twist, each dish invites you to indulge in the ocean's bounty. Salted Roasted Santa Barbara Spot Prawns Providence At Providence in Los Angeles, chef Michael Cimarusti's salted roasted santa barbara spot prawns are a cherished seasonal highlight. Presented with rosemary, lemon, and extra-virgin olive oil, this dish preserves the prawns' delicate texture and natural sweetness. 'Known as one of our most enduring and iconic dishes, the salted roasted santa barbara spot prawns was born from the idea that I had to try to shorten the time from the live tank to the table,' says chef Michael Cimarusti. Crab & Caviar Platter Seaside Finolhu Baa Atoll Maldives At Crab Shack inside Seaside Finolhu Baa Atoll Maldives, a PADI 5 Star Dive Resort, this indulgent platter pairs king crab leg, Normandie oysters, poached tiger prawns, and sustainably sourced Bulgarian caviar with local watermelon and house-made sherry vinegar mignonette. 'Each dish is an attribute to regional sourcing and purity of exceptional ingredients, allowing the ocean's authentic bounty to take center stage,' says executive chef Bernard Prim. Sakura Fish Mesm Tokyo At Mesm Tokyo's Chef's Theatre, head chef Kouki Kumamoto brings a sense of drama to the table with a presentation of greenling fish paired with seaweed. This bistronomy-style French dish embodies the restaurant's concept of transforming the kitchen into a stage. Using fresh, seasonal ingredients from Tokyo, the chef's precise technique highlights the delicate, briny flavor of the greenling, enhanced by the oceanic depth of the seaweed. Served in a live, open-kitchen setting, this dish invites diners to engage with the culinary journey. At Restaurant Vinum in Priorat, Spain, chef Josep Queralt Sales pays tribute to his roots with creamy rice of sea anemone, made from Delta del Ebro rice and paired with local La Rapita prawn carpaccio. The dish, accented by spirulina and Calvisius caviar, reflects the unique duality of the region, where inland rice fields meet the seabed. 'The creamy sea anemone rice, paired with local 'La Rapita' prawn carpaccio, embodies this harmony,' says chef Josep Queralt Sales. Sushiawase A_RESTAURANT At A_RESTAURANT in Japan, sushiawase reimagines traditional Japanese sushi. The omakase nigiri sushi course features seasonal seafood—like Kanazawa sweet shrimp, squid, silver-skinned fish and sea urchin—prepared with a variety of techniques to highlight freshness and flavor. 'We've reimagined traditional Japanese sushi by combining its core elements with techniques and ingredients from other culinary cultures, creating a completely new style of fusion sushi unique to A_RESTAURANT,' says head chef Hideyuki Kon. At The Dining Room at Rosewood Kauri Cliffs in New Zealand, fresh-caught mangonui snapper is served with white asparagus, hazelnut, and sumac, creating a dish that captures the essence of the coast. 'Fresh-caught mangonui snapper like this tells its own story – it's clean, bright, and full of the character of our coastline,' says Jane-Therese Mulry, director of culinary, Rosewood New Zealand. Château Eza SGMKG At Château Eza in Eze, France, chef Justin Schmitt's signature fish-based amuse-bouche, the rock … around the mediterranean sea, offers a stunning medley of chilled kombu broth, razor clams, fennel mousse, and a touch of yuzu. The dish also features a mussel and celery tartlet with pear, and a poached oyster with sorrel coulis, horseradish cream, preserved lemon, apple sorbet, and wild pepper. 'Better to lose yourself in your passion than to lose your passion,' says chef Justin Schmitt. Prime Seafood Tower La Boucherie in InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown At La Boucherie in InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown, the prime seafood tower is an indulgent spread featuring poached prawns, lobster tail, king crab, grilled and chilled scallops, Salt Spring Island mussels, oysters, salmon sashimi, and Spanish octopus. Served with zesty accompaniments including cocktail sauce, mignonette, and fresh-grated horseradish, it's seafood spectacle at its finest. 'Our seafood tower is a testament to comforting memories of past meals and occasions,' says executive chef Daniel L. Fennessy.' Premium Economy Meal Service EVA Air EVA Air's premium economy class, a concept the airline pioneered in 1992, elevates in-flight dining with its savory congee featuring prawn and fish. This comforting rice porridge is enriched with tender pieces of seafood, offering a warm and satisfying meal that reflects East Asian culinary traditions. Served as part of the breakfast service, it provides a nourishing and flavorful option for travelers seeking comfort at 35,000 feet. Fish Course Kinjohro Kanazawa At Kinjohro in Kanazawa, tai no karamushi is a classic Kaga dish made with red seabream stuffed with okara, vegetables, and other ingredients. This traditional preparation, symbolic of samurai culture, features two seabreams steamed and served facing each other, often gracing weddings and celebratory occasions. Said to have originated in the Edo period with influences from Nagasaki's Shippoku cuisine, tai no karamushi showcases the versatility of red seabream, a beloved ingredient in many Ishikawa recipes. Fresh Halibut XO Holland America Line On Holland America Line, fresh halibut XO is a summer seasonal favorite offered as a supplemental dish on all Dining Room menus. Steamed halibut is paired with Asian vegetables and rich XO sauce made from dried shrimp and scallops, offering a cold-water twist on a dish once prepared with grouper. 'The fresh halibut XO is offered on all Holland America Line Dining Room menus as a supplemental dish by chef Morimoto… It's one of the more popular dishes, just brought back for this summer season,' says Marisa Christenson. Crispy Red Snapper Collar Nobu-Style Black Cod At Umi Uma on Crystal Cruises, the signature nobu-style black cod is a standout. Marinated for days in a delicate blend of sweet white miso, sake, and mirin, the dish embodies chef Nobu Matsuhisa's philosophy of simplicity and harmony. Paired with baby peach and young ginger, the result is a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth fillet, caramelized to perfection and subtly infused with umami sweetness. 'The nobu-style black cod is a signature masterpiece at Umi Uma, a quintessential expression of Nobu's culinary artistry at sea—refined, balanced, and unforgettable,' says Gunter Lorenz, vice president of food & beverage operations. Golden Passion Afternoon Tea with Grilled Shrimp Golden Passion Afternoon Tea At FIVE – Grill & Lounge at Hyatt Centric Kanazawa, the snow crab cake is crafted from freshly caught snow crab from Kanazawa Port, delivering a rich yet delicately light flavor that has become a favorite among international guests. For the summer season, a seasonal seafood marinade is introduced, showcasing locally sourced seafood and paired with a fresh salad made from vegetables provided by contracted local farmers. Fish Dumplings Hyatt Centric Lakeside Ningbo At Hyatt Centric Lakeside Ningbo in China, the golden pouch of East China Sea yellow croaker is a standout summer chef's recommendation. Slices of yellow croaker from Dongji Island are paired with shrimp meat, wrapped in delicate pork caul fat, and shaped into a pomegranate-like pouch. The pouch is gently fried at low temperature, delivering a crispy exterior with a tender, juicy filling that celebrates the coastal flavors of East China. Creole Snapper Bread & Beast Food Photographer At Favorites Bistro Bar in New London, Connecticut, the creole snapper showcases a whole red snapper marinated in house spices, served with black rice, seasonal greens, and sweet plantains. This Caribbean-American dish offers a perfectly balanced bite. 'The red snapper is a symbol of the seaside in my native Haiti, where fresh-caught fish is a daily staple and culinary tradition runs deep,' says owner Majan Pierre. Shrimp Tempura Sushi Taquito Wyndham Grand Clearwater Beach Resort At Ocean Hai at Wyndham Grand Clearwater Beach Resort, the shrimp tempura sushi taquito layers crispy shrimp tempura over seasoned sushi rice, with mango, jalapeño, cilantro, and red tobiko on a crisp nori sheet. Drizzled with cilantro aioli and served open-faced, this dish delivers an unexpected fusion of textures and flavors. 'At Ocean Hai, we seek out ways to blend the restaurant's signature Asian fusion-inspired menu with the backgrounds and inspirations of our talented culinary team while incorporating locally sourced, seasonal ingredients,' says executive chef Nana Darkwah. Ahi Tuna 'Wellington' ULU, Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Hawai'i At ULU at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, the ahi tuna 'wellington' reimagines the classic with Bigeye tuna wrapped in luau leaf and flaky pastry, filled with a rich ali'i mushroom and black truffle duxelle. Finished with foie gras Bordelaise and Surinam cherry jam, the dish celebrates Hawai'i's vibrant local flavors. 'This is our interpretation of a classic beef Wellington that celebrates our local fishermen and farmers here on the Big Island of Hawai'i,' says chef de cuisine Chris Damskey. Shrimp N' Waffles The Wharf at Sunset Walk At The Wharf at Sunset Walk in Kissimmee, Florida, shrimp n' waffles puts a playful spin on a Southern classic. Crispy shrimp top a fluffy Belgian waffle, drizzled with sweet Thai chili sauce and sriracha aioli, and finished with sesame seeds, cilantro, and scallions. 'Our shrimp n' waffles is a coastal twist that reimagines a Southern classic, chicken and waffles,' says executive chef Sean Marzan. Miso Marinated Chilean Seabass Hugo's At Hugo's Frog Bar & Fish House in Chicago, the Chilean seabass is marinated in miso and pickled ginger, then pan-seared and served with hon shimeji mushrooms, peas, and a velvety soy-lemon butter sauce. 'Hugo's Chilean seabass, marinated in miso and pickled ginger, is pan-seared and served with hon shimeji mushrooms, peas, and soy-lemon butter,' says chef Bob Gallegher. At Lure Fishbar Chicago, the crispy Asian snapper is a shareable, flavor-packed dish. Snapper is pulled from the bone, coated in tempura, flash-fried for an airy crunch, and tossed in a house-made Szechwan ginger glaze. Served with stir-fried vegetables and fried rice, it delivers a bold balance of textures and tastes. 'The crispy Asian snapper is the first dish I added to the menu when I came to Lure Fishbar. It is a dish that hits all the taste receptors in a perfectly balanced way,' says executive chef Preston Clark. Baked Black Cod 'Dolma' Leonetta This inventive Mediterranean-inspired dish features buttery black cod marinated in shio koji, then wrapped in grape leaves with wild rice and roasted to perfection. Finished with a bright lemon-honey emulsion and served with blistered tomatoes, it offers a nuanced balance of flavors, texture, and depth. Chef Ed Cotton shares: 'I really enjoy this fish preparation, which utilizes a Japanese ingredient… It's one of my favorites on the menu here at Leonetta.' Swedish Style Caviar Waxins At Waxin's in Palm Beach Gardens and Naples, Florida, swedish style caviar highlights vendace caviar served with freshly whipped crème fraîche, finely chopped red onion, dill, lemon wedge, and butter-fried toast. Each bite delivers briny richness with creamy and crisp textures, showcasing the care behind this delicacy. 'What makes swedish style caviar truly special is the meticulous craftsmanship involved in its harvesting… The dedication and time invested in this product is nothing short of remarkable,' says executive chef Melvin Glimstål. Wood Fired Branzino Jack & Charlie's At Jack & Charlie's in New York City, the wood fired branzino is cooked over live fire and paired with miso and sake braised leeks, wild mushrooms, and a bright yuzu broth. The miso leeks add sweetness and depth, complemented by the sake's delicate touch, while the umami-rich branzino harmonizes with the dish's citrus finish. 'For me, it's the miso and sake braised leeks that really bring the dish together… Bright clean flavors and a unique delivery,' says chef Ed Cotton. Pescado Frito Benny's on the Beach At Benny's on the Beach in Lake Worth, Florida, pescado frito presents a showstopping whole red snapper seasoned and deep-fried to crispy perfection. It's served with cilantro-lime rice, mixed vegetables, corn on the cob, pickled red onion, tomato relish, sour cream, and flour tortillas for a festive coastal experience. 'Benny's on the Beach has become known for our pescado frito… The dish is a head turner as it is walked to tables, and we struggle to keep enough of them!' says managing director Dylan Lipton. Seafood Board Bronwyn Knight At Caretta Caretta at The Singer Oceanfront Resort on Singer Island, Florida, the seafood board offers a coastal twist on the classic charcuterie. Crafted with fresh, locally sourced seafood, it features smoked mahi dip, charred octopus, marinated shrimp, and slices of ahi tuna. 'Our seafood board offers a coastal twist on the classic charcuterie, designed as a fun and shareable starter for all seafood enthusiasts,' says food and beverage director Bret Winograd. Fried Yam Prawn Dumpling Quenino At Quenino in Artyzen Singapore, the fried yam prawn dumpling reimagines the classic wu gok with delicate yam pastry laced with Indian spices, vibrant pork and prawn filling, and a poached oyster in house-made kicap oyster sauce. Yacon and celtuce add crisp texture, creating a bold, layered dish that bridges Chinese and Indian culinary traditions. 'This dish feels like the most 'me' thing on the menu—it brings together both my Chinese and Indian heritage in a way that's playful, bold, and easy to enjoy,' says chef de cuisine Sujatha Asokan. Seafood Spaghetti 1212 Santa Monica At 1212 Santa Monica in California, seafood spaghetti pairs homemade noodles with rich marinara sauce and a medley of fresh seafood, including clams, mussels, prawns, and calamari. Each bite offers a taste of the coast, with perfectly cooked pasta and ocean-fresh flavors. 'Our seafood spaghetti is a celebration of the sea—made with fresh, handmade pasta and the day's best catch,' says chef Hiroki Yamagishi. Roasted Local Halibut La Bohème At La Bohème in West Hollywood, roasted local halibut is grilled and served with crustacean coconut broth, maple-glazed butternut squash, steamed bok choy, and gobo root. The dish balances delicate fish with rich broth and earthy seasonal vegetables for a refined yet comforting plate. 'This dish is all about balance—the delicate flavor of locally caught halibut paired with a rich coconut crustacean broth and earthy, seasonal vegetables,' says chef Daniel Perez. Spaghetti alla Chitarra alla Vongole Settecento At Settecento in downtown Los Angeles, spaghetti alla chitarra alla vongole is a timeless Italian classic. Homemade spaghetti alla chitarra is tossed in a fragrant garlic and white wine sauce, then topped with fresh clams. The simplicity of the ingredients lets the pasta and seafood shine. 'Spaghetti alla chitarra alla vongole is a timeless Italian classic—simple, elegant, and full of soul,' says chef Francesco Angri. Ahi Tataki Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort At Ka'ana Kitchen at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, ahi tataki offers a fresh take on the classic caprese. The dish combines local Bigeye tuna, creamy burrata cheese, local tomatoes, and a hint of lilikoi, finished with Hawaiian black lava salt. It's a perfectly balanced fusion of flavors celebrating Maui's local bounty. 'Originally created by one of Ka'ana's first chefs, this dish is a fresh take on the classic caprese… The richness of the cheese meets the clean, delicate flavor of the tuna, all brought together with a touch of lilikoi and Hawaiian black lava salt,' says executive chef Ritchard Cariaga. Jewel Box Hoshino Resorts At HOSHINOYA Bali in Ubud, Indonesia, the jewel box is a stunning chirashi don showcasing salmon, scallop, pearls of ikura, fresh snapper, tuna tataki, and lightly charred squid. Meticulously crafted with delicate Japanese culinary techniques, the dish celebrates both Bali's local ingredients and Japanese authenticity. 'In addition to creative Balinese and Indonesian-inspired dishes, we take pride in offering authentic Japanese cuisine, meticulously crafted with delicate Japanese culinary techniques and the finest local ingredients,' shares the team at HOSHINOYA Bali. Caribbean Seafood Pot Blue Water Bistro in Wymara Resort + Villas, Turks & Caicos At Blue Water Bistro in Wymara Resort + Villas, Turks & Caicos, director of culinary and executive chef Andrew Mirosch showcases the region's bounty with a Caribbean seafood claypot. Featuring sustainably harvested Turks lobster, jumbo tiger prawns, bay scallops, conch, mussels, New Bedford scallops, and grouper in a rich Jamaican-style coconut curry, it's served with red bean rice. 'Our goal was to celebrate the best of local Caribbean fare, highlighting regionally grown produce and the freshest line-caught, net-free seafood from Turks & Caicos,' says chef Mirosch. Baked Lobster Banyan Tree Krabi, Thailand At The Bird's Nest at Banyan Tree Krabi, Thailand, baked lobster is paired with a rich, creamy, tangy, and spicy Penang curry fruit sauce. The sauce blends coconut milk, kaffir lime leaf, and chili for a fusion of bold tropical flavors, showcasing Thailand's coastal bounty. Perched in elevated table pods amid the canopy of trees, The Bird's Nest offers a stunning backdrop for this standout main course. Tuna Belly W Punta de Mita At Rubra in W Punta de Mita, Mexico, chef Daniela Soto-Innes celebrates Mexico's West Coast seafood with a stunning tower of lobster, Bahia shrimp, oyster clams, Toro Blue Fin Tuna, and tropical kiwi and pineapple accents. Each bite is elevated with homemade, regionally inspired sauces that honor local fishing traditions, delivering a true taste of the Pacific. Skull Island Prawns Park Hyatt Auckland Part of the Seafarer Dinner experience at Park Hyatt Auckland, Skull Island Prawns showcases naturally sweet prawns sustainably sourced from Australia's tropical northern waters—some reaching up to 26 centimeters long. Executive chef Sven Ullrich emphasizes the resort's commitment to eco-friendly practices and sustainability, highlighting a menu crafted from ingredients sourced exclusively from local, certified suppliers. Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia El Encanto, A Belmond Hotel, Santa Barbara, At El Encanto, A Belmond Hotel, Santa Barbara, chef Alex Bollinger crafts this stunning dish with spaghetti al nero di seppia, complemented by rainbow chard and a delicate Champagne lemon beurre blanc, topped with Kaluga Reserve caviar. Inspired by a memorable experience at Citronelle and honoring California's coastal heritage, this dish embodies a thoughtful nod to sustainability and culinary nostalgia. El Encanto executive chef Alex Bollinger explains: 'Now, thanks to sustainable aquaculture, we can responsibly enjoy abalone… honoring California's deep-rooted seafood traditions.' Pan Seared Cobia Limewood Bar & Restaurant At Limewood Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Executive Chef Joseph L. Paire III captures the essence of summer with his Pan Seared Cobia filet. The firm fish, crisped to perfection, is complemented by a vibrant salsa verde and sweet summer peas. 'In the Summer months our menu becomes very seafood focused to lighten things up, and help compliment the awesome produce that pops up this time of year,' shares Chef Paire. 'The fish is firm but light, skin nice and crisp, and has the brightness of summer peaking through from the salsa verde.' Please find images attached Nestled at the base of Claremont Canyon in Berkeley, Claremont Resort & Club is a landmark destination known as the 'White Castle in the Hills.' Established in 1915, the resort celebrates its 110th anniversary, offering beautifully restored rooms and suites, a world-class spa, and distinguished dining. Its private Club fosters a close-knit community, adding to the iconic charm that overlooks the San Francisco Bay. New Quarter High Tide Raw Seafood Platter New Quarter's High Tide Weekends in Richmond showcase the diverse flavors of Australian seafood with a long, laid-back seafood lunch designed to share. The $76 per person feast features Moreton Bay Bugs, Pacific Oysters, Beef Tartare & Asparagus Rice Paper Rolls, and the signature Betel Leaf Kingfish, all served with vibrant dipping sauces. 'High Tide at New Quarter is about indulging in laid-back luxury—bright, bold flavours and free-flowing drinks built around a generous raw seafood platter designed to share,' says Executive Chef Scott Lord of Commune Group. Oysters Moonhouse At Moonhouse in Melbourne's Carlisle Street, Wednesday evenings are transformed into a midweek seafood ritual. For $30 per person, guests savor a market-fresh fish, either steamed or pan-fried, accompanied by bold Firewater broth or a fragrant Shaoxing option. 'Fish Night is all about comfort and ritual—a simple midweek tradition that lets beautiful market-fresh fish shine with punchy, flavour-driven broths and sides,' says Executive Chef Scott Lord of Commune Group. Diners can pair their fish with shared sides like Chinese broccoli with sesame, kung pao brussels sprouts, or fried rice. Caviar Tart Hotel Nia At Porta Blu in Menlo Park's Hotel Nia, approachable luxury comes to life in the form of the caviar tart. Served on house croutons with egg, mascarpone mousse, and trout roe, the dish balances elegance with playfulness. 'I wanted to lessen the intimidation of an ingredient that is only associated with luxurious experiences. The caviar tart is an elegant yet playful way of showing just that,' says Executive Chef Malcolm Chow. For an extra touch of decadence, opt for kaluga caviar. Kona Kanpachi En Croute Prince Waikiki | At 100 Sails Restaurant & Bar in Prince Waikiki, the Kona Kanpachi En Croute is a showstopper. This award-winning Japanese fish, known for its delicate, buttery flavor, is enveloped in a toasted brioche bun with shrimp pâté and fragrant lemongrass. It's served with a rich truffle dashi infused with truffle and a bright yuzu emulsion, alongside farm-fresh vegetables and Ho Farms tomatoes. 'Here at Prince Waikiki, we take pride in creating a unique dining experience utilizing only the freshest local ingredients and pairing it with a contemporary twist of both Japanese and French techniques,' says Executive Chef Jeremy Shigekane. At Soho Beach House Canouan, the Snapper Bluff celebrates the island's coastal bounty. A delicate fillet of locally-caught snapper is pan-seared and served atop a velvety coconut-lime emulsion, enhanced with blistered cherry tomatoes, pickled island vegetables and charred scallion oil. Grilled breadfruit chips add a signature Caribbean touch. 'The Snapper Bluff is our tribute to the island—fresh from the sea, kissed by fire, and layered with the bold, bright flavors that define Canouan. It's not just a dish, it's a story on a plate,' says executive chef Johann Zwahlen. East Caribbean Barracuda Mandarin Oriental, Canouan At Mandarin Oriental, Canouan's Tides Bar + Grill, the East Caribbean Barracuda is grilled over coconut husk charcoal, paired with crispy pineapple chips, curried pumpkin silk and fennel salad. 'Our East Caribbean Barracuda is truly special. It's not only non-toxic and incredibly pure, but we elevate it further by grilling it over coconut husk charcoal,' says executive sous Chef I Gede Wicaksana. Caribbean Lobster Risotto Canouan Estate Resort & Villas, At Canouan Estate Resort & Villas, the Caribbean Lobster Risotto highlights locally caught lobster atop creamy risotto with velvety coconut espuma infused with Vincy pepper. Fresh spinach, garden peas, and a splash of smoked lemon juice complete this comforting yet vibrant dish. 'This dish, with its sweet, firm lobster and velvety coconut espuma infused with Vincy pepper, is our Canouan take on comfort food. It's a plate that truly says 'comfort with a sense of place'—familiar, yet unmistakably rooted in the Grenadines,' says chef Raushan Kuma. Spaghettoni Brett O'Brien At Sí Sí, EHP Resort & Marina's signature Spaghettoni features fresh handmade pasta, king crab, manilla clams, and preserved fennel, all bathed in a rich shellfish bisque made from lobster, shrimp and crab. Anchovy breadcrumbs add a savory finish. 'At EHP Resort & Marina, our Spaghettoni celebrates the full spectrum of coastal flavors,' says chef partner Dane Sayles. Maine Lobster & Squid Ink Tagliatelle White Barn Inn, Auberge Resorts Collection, At White Barn Inn, Auberge Resorts Collection, this dish weaves a personal story with local pride. Fresh Maine lobster from a fisherman friend and foraged sea beans are served atop squid ink tagliatelle, creating a true homage to the coastal bounty. 'The Maine Lobster & Squid Ink Tagliatelle dish is deeply personal to me. It tells the story of my lifelong love for the Maine coast,' says executive chef Mary Dumont. Spanish Octopus Remy's Loose At Remy's Loose at the The Chanler at Cliff Walk the Spanish octopus is brined with fresh citrus and house-fermented hot sauce, then gently confit in olive oil for six hours. Finished on the plancha for a crisp, caramelized crust, it's served with sweet and sour cauliflower and bright Meyer lemon. 'My goal is to create something deeply familiar, yet refined, elevating the familiar with thoughtful contrast,' says executive chef Jacob Jasinski. Khao Phad Saffron Banyan Tree Mayakoba At Banyan Tree Mayakoba's Saffron, khao phad saffron combines premium Thai jasmine rice infused with saffron and fresh seafood—shrimp, squid, scallops and mussels—from the nearby sea. 'We use authentic Thai jasmine rice cooked with saffron, combined with the freshest seafood,' says chef May. Chilean Sea Bass The Setai, Miami Beach At The The Setai, Miami Beach, the Chilean sea bass is served with charred tomato miso, red onion, and a hint of lime. The dish balances the sea bass's delicate texture with a refined blend of savory, sweet, and acidic notes. 'The richness of the fish is beautifully complemented by the bright, savory notes of the charred tomato miso and fresh lime,' says executive chef Vijayudu Veena. Calamari Fries Michael A Chirichillo At Clever Koi, a modern Asian eatery in Greater Phoenix, calamari steak is sliced into strips, lightly battered in tempura, and flash-fried for a crispy, zesty bite. Finished with mint furikake and a citrusy yuzu aioli, it's a creative take on a classic. 'Instead of the usual rings and tentacles, we use calamari steak cut into strips, hence the name,' says co-owner Joshua James. Dry-Aged Red Snapper 'a la Plancha' Kimpton Grand Roatán Resort & Spa At Kimpton Grand Roatán Resort & Spa, snapper is dry-aged for three days to intensify its flavor, then seared a la plancha for ultra-crispy skin. Served with carrot-coconut purée, pineapple chimol, and a creamy curry sauce, this dish highlights local bounty. 'We dry-age the snapper to enhance its flavor and texture, sear it a la plancha, and serve it with a rich, creamy curry sauce,' says executive chef Guido Ojeda. Angry Lobster gigi's Montauk, At gigi's Montauk, the angry lobster is a 1-pound lobster chopped into hearty chunks, cooked to tender perfection and drenched in a spicy, buttery sauce. Garnished with green onion and citrus, the dish balances rich decadence with fiery heat. 'The Angry Lobster is a fiery, flavor-packed dish featuring succulent lobster smothered in a bold, spicy butter sauce,' says chef Jason Lee. Kampachi and Chocolata Clam a 'la Diabla' COMAL at Chileno Bay Resorts & Residences At COMAL at Chileno Bay Resorts & Residences , two standout dishes showcase Baja's sustainable bounty. The Kampachi, a delicately marbled fish from Baja California Sur, is served crudo-style with seaweed salad, cashew miso vinaigrette, and corn furikake. The Chocolata clam from the Sea of Cortez is paired with a reimagined a la Diabla sauce, enriched with ginger and fermented chile for bold, coastal flavors. 'We work closely with sea farms in Baja that prioritize environmental stewardship, ensuring the continued availability of these regional delicacies while respecting the ocean's natural rhythms,' says chef Yvan. Seafood Tower Cameron Mitchell Restaurants At Ocean Prime, the custom-built shellfish tower offers a selection of oysters, shrimp cocktail, Maine lobster, and Dutch Harbor King Crab legs, enhanced by a cascade of liquid 'smoke' for dramatic effect. 'The smoking comes from dry ice, and it adds a whimsical feel that draws your eyes down the entire tower from the top as you follow the cascading 'Smoke,'' says corporate chef Jason Shelley. Low Country Seafood Pasta Andrew Cebulka At Fleet Landing in Charleston, SC, fettuccine is tossed with shrimp, scallops, crawfish, mussels and andouille sausage in a rich Creole butter sauce. Asparagus, tomatoes, and parmesan add color and flavor. 'We combine fresh seafood and andouille sausage in an aromatic creole butter cream sauce to create a rich, vibrant pasta that exudes a sense of warmth and southern hospitality,' says executive chef Andy McLeod. Halibut Costa Aleece Sophia At Costa* in Charleston, fresh halibut is brined, dried, and basted in early spring garlic, served with BBQ squid, English peas, and pancetta. 'This variation is fresh halibut brined, dried, and gently basted in early spring garlic, paired with local squid cured in shio-koji for sweetness, lardo for texture, and plump, sweet peas,' says executive chef Vinson Petrillo. Pan Seared Scallop Ryan Belk At Wild Common in Charleston, a pan-seared scallop is paired with bamboo rice, mussels in carrot-vadouvan curry and bok choy from Dogpatch Farmstead. 'This dish is really special to Wild Common because it highlights our collaboration with Dogpatch Farmstead, which is a local farm owned and operated by one of our chefs, Casey,' says executive chef Orlando Pagán. Seafood Dip Woven Seafood & Chophouse At Woven Seafood & Chophouse in Tacoma, the seafood dip blends seafood trimmings with spicy aioli, Kabayaki sauce, Monterey Jack cheese, gremolata and Woven-style fry bread. 'This dip utilizes a mix of seafood trimmings that would often be thrown out, blending an American comfort food with Asian flavors and techniques,' says executive chef Dexter Mina. Octopus with Calabrian Chile Vinaigrette Silver Sands At Eddie's in Silver Sands, octopus is braised for over three hours, then roasted in olive oil for a crisp exterior and tender interior. It's finished with a bold Mediterranean-style vinaigrette made with Calabrian chiles, lime juice, lime zest, Colatura, and cilantro. 'For me, this dish is about coaxing flavor out of every step: slow braising for tenderness, roasting for texture, and a punchy vinaigrette to tie it all together,' says chef Finn O'Hara. Caicos conch The Palms At Sí Sí at The Palms, freshly caught Caicos conch is lightly cracked and fried to a crisp, served with shallots, mixed greens, and smoky chipotle sauce. 'This dish showcases the finest locally caught Caicos conch, prepared with precision to highlight its natural flavor and crisp texture,' says Executive Chef Rajasekar Ravindran. Pan Seared Native Red Snapper The Shore Club At SUI-REN at The Shore Club, native red snapper is pan-seared to perfection and served with smoky Ají Amarillo sauce and savory Chaufa. 'This dish is all about bold, balanced flavor—the native red snapper is paired with smoky Ají Amarillo sauce and savory Chaufa,' says Acting Executive Chef Raheem Junker. Herb Basted Scallops with Artichoke Purée Nobu Hotel Palo Alto At Nobu Hotel Palo Alto, herb-basted scallops are paired with creamy California artichoke purée, lemon gastrique, and fresh spring vegetables. 'Herb-basted scallops paired with creamy artichoke purée, brightened by lemon gastrique and balanced with fresh spring vegetables — a dish that highlights clean, seasonal flavors,' says Executive Chef Ryan Mendoza. Million Dollar Roll Casa Sensei At Casa Sensei in Fort Lauderdale, the luxurious Million Dollar Roll layers lobster, scallops, foie gras, and caviar, finished with shimmering gold flakes and a drizzle of truffle oil for a silky, unforgettable bite. 'This roll was designed to wow – every ingredient is over-the-top in the best way, and together they create something rich, silky and unforgettable,' says Executive Chef Willfredo Reyes. At Pubbelly Sushi , citrus-laced lobster is wrapped in spicy honey and chives, then tucked inside a soft, glazed donut, creating an irresistible sweet-savory mashup. 'It's playful, sweet and savory all at once. We wanted to surprise people – and it's become one of our most talked-about bites,' says Chef José Mendín. Hama Kama Uchi Miami At Uchi Miami, oak-grilled yellowtail collar is served with salsa verde, ponzu, and charred lemon for a smoky, flavorful dish. 'Yellowtail collar is one of the most flavorful cuts of fish, and when we oak-grill it, that natural umami richness deepens before being layered in acid to bring out a bright flavor profile,' says Executive Chef Tyson Cole. Shima Aji Crudo Uchiko At Uchiko, striped jack is served with koji citrus granita, brown butter crème, fraiche, and Thai chili for a delicate yet bold dish. 'This dish is about contrast. Shima Aji has a clean, subtle flavor, so the koji granita brings umami and acid, the brown butter and crème add texture and warmth, and the Thai chili just lifts it at the end,' says Executive Chef Tyson Cole. mages: HERE Grilled Shrimp Tacos Ocean Blue Restaurant At Ocean Blue Restaurant in Myrtle Beach, a highlight of the menu is the Pan-Seared Grouper Filet. This signature dish features perfectly seared grouper, its delicate, flaky texture complemented by a creamy corn and spinach risotto and fresh seasonal vegetables. Nestled within The Ellie Beach Resort and just minutes from Murrells Inlet—known as 'The Seafood Capital of South Carolina'—Ocean Blue showcases the bounty of the coast in every bite. 'This dish showcases the best of coastal flavors with creamy, comforting risotto and perfectly cooked grouper,' says Executive Chef David Matson. Crying Tiger Seared Tuna and Walnut Shrimp Tigress At Tigress in The Perry Hotel Naples, Florida, Chef Dale Talde fuses Cantonese flavors with steakhouse boldness. The Crying Tiger Seared Tuna features avocado salad and pickled gooseberries, while the Walnut Shrimp balances candied walnuts and walnut aioli with radish. 'We've incorporated intricate flavors to create a balance of brightness, texture, and depth,' says Chef Dale Talde. Mayan Octopus Woodend by Curtis Stone At Woodend by Curtis Stone in the Riviera Maya, local octopus is grilled over embers and glazed with pineapple gastrique and chili chilhuacle romesco. 'One of their specialties is our Mayan Octopus, grilled over embers and glazed with pineapple and a chihuacle chili romesco,' says Head Chef Adolfo Murillo. Shrimp & Blue Crab Casarecce THesis Hotel Miami At The Collab at THesis Hotel Miami, this standout dish combines shrimp and blue crab with seafood broth, corn puree, spinach, and Calabrian chili. 'Our Shrimp & Blue Crab Casarecce is a study in balance: the richness of crab, the purity of sweet corn, and Calabrian chili's slow burn—each bite has intention,' says Chef Peiyuan Nung. At Bourbon Steak Nashville, the Caviar Twinkie offers a striking start to the meal, combining pristine Petrossian caviar with vibrant yuzu crème fraîche and traditional garnishes. The playful, elegant dish nods to both nostalgia and indulgence. 'We wanted to offer something both nostalgic and elevated as a first bite,' says Executive Chef Travis Tanner. Soft Shell Crab & Udon 888 At 888 in Nashville, crispy tempura soft shell crab crowns udon noodles in a rich, savory uni curry broth. Topped with maitake mushrooms and caviar, the dish offers bold flavors with refined elegance. 'We wanted to create a symphony of textures and umami flavor to represent the Japanese roots of 888,' says executive chef Alfredo Bueno. Seabass Porchetta Torno Subito Miami At Torno Subito Miami recently recognized by the Michelin Guide, chef Bernardo Paladini brings bold creativity to the legendary Massimo Bottura's first U.S. restaurant. His seabass porchetta reimagines the classic porchetta sandwich by replacing pork with wild seabass, layered with smoked pork belly, rosemary, dill, garlic, and black pepper. Served with zesty lemon emulsion and tender grilled baby lettuce, this dish perfectly captures the restaurant's playful, boundary-pushing spirit. 'Our seabass porchetta was born from the playful idea of turning a traditional porchetta sandwich into something unexpected—made entirely with wild seabass,' says chef Bernardo Paladini. At Omni San Diego Hotel's Tortuga Pool Bar and Terrace, the baja ceviche is a refreshing showcase of coastal vibrancy. Fresh catch of the day is tossed with gigante corn, avocado, vine-ripened tomatoes, and crisp cucumber, then finished with zesty serrano leche de tigre and a splash of lime. 'There's a reason fresh fish ceviche never goes out of style—it's the perfect harmony of ocean freshness, citrus brightness, and bold flavor in every bite,' says director of food & beverage Jordan Cook. Creole Shrimp & Grits Restaurant Iron At Restaurant Iron in Pensacola, the creole shrimp & grits combines blackened large gulf shrimp with creamy raclette rice grits, ham hock braised collard greens, creole shrimp butter, andouille sausage, fresh rosemary, and blistered heirloom tomatoes. 'Our creole shrimp & grits draws inspiration from a New Orleans classic. The New Orleans-style BBQ sauce truly makes the dish,' says executive chef Alex McPhail. At Salt Wood Kitchen & Oysterette at The Sanctuary Beach Resort in Marina, CA, the whole grilled daily catch for two is cooked over an open flame and topped with housemade chimichurri, fried garlic, and apricot chutney. This shareable dish highlights the freshest fish from Monterey Bay, celebrating bold coastal flavors. 'We're not trying to reinvent seafood—we're getting out of the way and letting the fire, and the fish do the talking,' says the team at Salt Wood Kitchen & Oysterette. Hamachi Aguachile Crudo Omni Tempe Hotel at ASU At Lucero Rooftop Lounge & Terrace at Omni Tempe Hotel at ASU, the hamachi aguachile crudo pairs yellowtail with mango habanero aguachile, red onion, cucumber, jalapeño and cilantro oil. This Southwest-inspired crudo delivers punchy flavors perfect for rooftop dining. 'A good dish doesn't need accolades—just silence and an empty plate,' says chef Cesar Ruiz. Uni Toast and Uni 'Carbonara' The Inn at Mattei's Tavern At The Tavern at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern in Los Olivos, chef Kevin Malone showcases the versatility of uni in two standout dishes. The uni toast features red sea urchin atop toasted brioche with blood orange gel and a hint of fresno chili. The uni 'carbonara' reimagines the classic with tagliatelle in a rich uni cream sauce, minced Spanish chorizo, trout roe, cured lemon, and fresh shiso. 'Uni has such a distinct flavor, and I wanted to do something unexpected that showcased its versatility,' says chef Kevin Malone. Crispy Red Snapper Collar Peark & Horn At Pearl & Horn, the Gulf Coast red snapper collar is dusted with spiced cornmeal, flash-fried, then oven-finished for a crispy texture. Served with housemade adjika beurre blanc, pickled onion herb salad and parsley oil, the dish marries vibrant coastal flavors with Georgian heritage. 'The adjika beurre blanc combines the heritage from my home country of Georgia with a French classic technique,' says executive chef George Lazi.
CNA
a day ago
- Business
- CNA
Putien's founder Fong Chi Chung on his humble beginnings, giving back and the value of an egg
Off the coast of Putian city in China's Fujian province, we bobbed along on a boat together with Putien's founder Fong Chi Chung. We'd just admired the thriving yellow croaker fish and oyster farms from which the Putien restaurants in Singapore and all around Asia get their fresh produce, as part of a tour that Mr Fong was giving of his hometown. The restaurants, numbering more than 100, may be named after the Chinese city, but awareness of Putian as a place or destination is low. It is not on the usual tourist maps and few people have an understanding of what it is like. Although Mr Fong lives in Singapore and is a naturalised citizen, he sources produce from Putian for his restaurant chain. Known to everyone – workers and reporters alike – as 'Uncle Fong', the 57-year-old also leads the occasional private tour for people of Hinghwa descent, or to show the media what the area has to offer. At one point, he gestured to the wild, hilly islands surrounding our boat. 'What do you see?', he asked. The answer came: 'Nothing.' 'Right, even the hills are bare. There are no trees. Nothing grows. In the past, the people who lived here were so desperate, that there wasn't even tree bark to eat when they had no food. They would jump on the first ship that came along and say, 'We don't care where you're going. Just get us out of here'.' One wonders how many natives of this part of Fujian ended up settling in Singapore in this way, as Mr Fong himself did in 2000 when he first moved here to set up an electronics factory with his wife and two sons at the age of 32. He would go on to become a citizen in 2008. The story of how he decided to open the first Putien eatery that same year in a coffee shop on Kitchener Road because he missed the Hinghwa cuisine of his hometown is well known, as is Putien's rise to fame with a Michelin star in 2016 and the expansion to 100 outlets across Asia. Yet, no matter how successful they are, Putian natives remain a sentimental lot, Mr Fong said. Pointing to the shore opposite, dotted with handsome buildings, he added: 'Putian people who went overseas and did well for themselves came back to build homes here, because they remained very attached to the land. They said, 'I still want to come back'.' That same night, we were invited to dinner at Mr Fong's own home, where he spends a few months a year. He built the house in 2015, in the village of his birth. Designed with elements of traditional Chinese architecture such as a central courtyard, a grand hall and a landscaped garden, the property also has quarters for helpers, as well as a massive peacock aviary in the shape of a gilded birdcage. Fun fact: The peacocks were a gift, so he built them the aviary at a cost of 80,000 yuan (S$14,260). There were also cat towers and dog kennels. He had at least five or six rescued animals, either pedigrees given up by previous owners or strays that, 'thanks to fate', found their way to his home. In his front driveway, under a massive celebratory tent, there were at least 20 tables, a stage for song-and-dance performances and live calligraphy demonstrations by his artist friends. There were rows of live cooking stations featuring the best of Putian's gastronomical delights and all manner of libations, from Chinese yellow wine to not-for-sale vintages from billionaire Jack Ma's winery in Bordeaux, France. Even the mayor of Putian was in attendance. It couldn't have been more different from his childhood home. Mr Fong, the youngest of four children, said to me as we chatted in his garden: 'I was born in this very village. 'We were very, very poor. I shared a room with my grandmother, so I was very close to her. "At home, the best food we had was eggs from our chickens. The value of each egg was about 12 cents. They were so precious that we never ate them. Even as her grandson, I was never allowed any. But, when we had guests, she never hesitated to cook them eggs in sugar syrup.' One day, he recalled, a guest from abroad came to visit. His grandmother cooked four eggs for the guest. 'I said, 'Grandma, please cook just one more for me'. She said, 'You can have the leftovers'. "Usually, guests ate one or two eggs, said they were full and left the rest for the children. But, this guest, being from overseas, didn't know this. When the guest ate the fourth egg, I started bawling.' As a restaurateur today, his grandmother's way of hospitality stays with him. 'That principle influenced me deeply. Give the best to the guests,' he said. 'I always tell my workers very simply, 'Be nicer to the guests'. Then, you don't need standard operating procedures. Everyone should just be nice in their own way.' THE YEARS HAVE PASSED "VERY QUICKLY" This year, in October, Putien will celebrate its 25th anniversary. A quarter of a century in Singapore's tough dining scene surely means the business must be doing something right. However, Mr Fong looked blank when, back in Singapore, over the course of tea at his black-and-white bungalow, I asked if he was planning to celebrate this milestone. 'Is it our 25th anniversary?', he wondered. He hadn't realised it. 'Every day is full, so, I don't think much about it,' he said with a chuckle as he brewed some tieguanyin tea leaves at the table. 'But speaking of how our first day of business really was 25 years ago – recently, I was going through some old photos and thought, 'Wow, I was so young!' "It has been good. I pour myself into it and I love it. So, these 25 years have passed very quickly and happily.' When Putien first started operating in a coffee shop, there were about 30 dishes listed on an A3-sized piece of paper, Mr Fong recalled. Many of the dishes including the restaurant's famous lor mee, bee hoon and seafood dishes have remained unchanged since then. Mr Fong was never a chef himself, but he had exacting standards when it came to food. 'The chefs thought I was very difficult, but I had the name of Putian to uphold.' If you are wondering why the restaurant's name is spelt Putien with an "e" instead of Putian after the city, it was due to a fortuitous administrative error. 'Back then, it was a relative of mine in Singapore who went to register the business. The name is in the Fujian language, so he wasn't sure how it was spelled in English,' Mr Fong said with a laugh. 'Imagine if he had spelled it 'Putian'. It would have been a big problem. We wouldn't even have been able to register our business, 'Putian' would never have been approved. The heavens were on my side.' As for the business growing to the behemoth that it is today, he said: 'How could I ever have imagined that?' A FUNNY STORY FROM A TRIP TO THE SINGAPORE ZOO On why he is known by the intimate name of "Uncle Fong", there is a funny story behind this. At the start, he trained Singapore cooks to replicate the flavours of his home. Later on, he hired cooks from China who moved to Singapore with their families. While the cooks were busy at the restaurant one day, Mr Fong decided that he would take their young children on an excursion to the Singapore Zoo. 'We entered the zoo and the first thing we saw was a giraffe,' he recalled. 'All the children immediately cried, 'Boss, there's a giraffe'. And then, it was, 'Boss, there's a monkey'. "I was so embarrassed. Their parents called me 'boss' in Mandarin, so they thought that was my name.' Lest the other zoo visitors thought he was leading a syndicate exploiting children, he hastily instructed them to address him as 'Uncle Fong' instead. I had been in Putian, also known historically as Hinghwa or Xinhua, for just three days. During that time, I learned that the city is famous for being the birthplace of a sea goddess named Mazu, who has been worshipped for a thousand years. The city is also for its private hospital industry and for being the fake-sneaker capital of the world. I continued to learn even more through Mr Fong. The people of Putian are known for being hardworking due to the land's meagre resources. 'We have nothing special compared to neighbouring Fuzhou and Quanzhou. Land is scarce. So, out of necessity, people have to focus on survival,' he said. "To be honest, 'Putian's reputation in China is not very good. Online commentators write, 'You mean such a good brand can come out of Putian?' What they are saying is, Putian people only care about making money." In Mr Fong's mind, there's no doubt that while his restaurant chain has built its name on specialising in the food of Putian, Putien is a Singapore brand. FROM PUTIAN TO THE WORLD, VIA SINGAPORE In 2007, officials from trade agency Enterprise Singapore, then known as Spring Singapore, approached him after a meal at the original Putien eatery. 'I said, 'Huh? The Singapore government is looking for me?'" What the government agency wanted was to present an offer to help the business expand, by linking it up with brand and management consulting services. 'The consultants said, 'We'll help you build your brand like MacDonald's and KFC'. "I started imagining Putien staff members in uniforms like MacDonald's employees.' With a few hundred thousand dollars in grants, Putien opened two more outlets the following year. 'So, is it a Singapore brand? Of course, it is. We started in this market and we had the help of the Singapore government. That gave us the opportunities. If not, we'd have one restaurant and it might have done good business, but it might also have closed down when I got old,' he said. There is, however, no Putien restaurant in Putian, even though the city's government had asked him to open one there. Elsewhere in Chinese cities such as Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou, his restaurants are located in "the best shopping centres'. 'Lor mee and bee hoon are everywhere in Putian. There's no point in opening there,' Mr Fong said. Putien has built its success on the home-style food of the Putian people, but until just recently, 'Putian people would never serve Putian food at feasts", he added. "They would serve Cantonese food instead, because Putian food is peasant food.' His view is that if you don't know the food of your own people well, "you are letting subsequent generations down". He mused: 'I was also thinking, as a person, if I'm able to do one thing that's meaningful in my life, I'd be happy. How do you define meaning? It's not about doing business and making money ... in my mind, I wanted to bring Putian to the world." Sourcing produce from Putian such as traditionally harvested sea salt, Nanri abalone, bamboo shoots, loquats from the town of Shufeng and razor clams from the village of Duotou is another way in which Mr Fong builds links to his hometown. For the last two years now, Putien has organised the 'Duotou Clam Festival' in spring, during which journalists from across Asia are invited to take part in harvesting the razor clams from nutrient-dense black mud. 'Helping the farmers and promoting their produce is meaningful to me,' Mr Fong said. 'I don't invest money in the farms. I just feel it's my responsibility to help them earn more ... If I help them with publicity and they earn more money, they will work even harder, they will breed better varieties and they will take better care of the clams. Isn't that good? "We do our thing, which is opening and running restaurants. They do their thing.' LIMBS, HEAD AND HEART Of course, through 25 years, Putien has had its ups and downs, Mr Fong said. The COVID-19 pandemic, for instance, was "a period of daily nightmares". He was thinking if the whole company might collapse in three months. After the pandemic now, it hasn't been good either because there is so much competition. "Recently, my hair has been going white,' he exclaimed. Eating into the "China food" pie are Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine and Yun Nans, for example, not to mention the popular brand Haidilao, as well as the numerous eateries specialising in hotpot and mala meals. Mr Fong is not just head of Putien, he also oversees two Uncle Fong Hotpot restaurants and Sam Leong Street Chicken Rice. The key is to keep challenging oneself to evolve, he said. 'In business, you should never say, 'I'm doing well. I'm making money. I've opened so many outlets. This business will be mine for generations'. "I think that's an immature way of thinking. When time leaves you behind, it won't even stop to say goodbye.' How many people remember the Four Heavenly Kings of Singapore restaurants, he asked. 'When I first arrived in Singapore 25 years ago, they were the four famous chefs at four big restaurants. Why aren't they around today? "Hong Kong used to have massive, grand restaurants where everyone would go for breakfast and eat dim sum and drink tea with their morning newspapers. They flourished so much that it became a way of life for Hong Kong residents. Now, not even one is left. 'The worst thing for a restaurant is to be eliminated by natural selection. If you don't evolve with the times, you get left behind." He added: "Who knows, in two decades, people won't be dining like they do now and they won't go to our restaurants any more. The model has to change. Put yourself in danger. Challenge yourself.' In August last year, for example, Putien did just that by famously rolling out its 'no GST and no service charge' policy, such that it did not raise menu prices. 'In one month, we took in S$1 million less,' he said, likening the move to 'chopping off my own limbs". The left arm was the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and the right arm was the service charge. However, he also thought that if he did not do that, another brand might rise and go for his neck, he added. "I'd better cut off my own arms first.' His strategy worked and patrons were elated. Many old customers returned to support the restaurant chain. "If we don't have a good relationship with customers, they will go elsewhere. We keep thinking about how we can cultivate a warm relationship with our customers,' he said. The business lost money for nearly five months and in the end, the solution was to raise productivity. 'Could we put more effort into choosing products? Could we be less wasteful in the kitchen? At times, the workers outnumbered the customers in the restaurant, which was wasteful. "In business, they say, you really have to wring the towel dry.' With the adjustments, from the start of this year, the business has been "making money and more than before", he added. His point was that by improving team productivity, each outlet made more money and each employee got more money. To be a successful and happy restaurateur, you cannot look at it as just a business, Mr Fong said, adding that if he did, it would be easy to close shop and "not work so hard" once the business stopped being profitable and the market was not good. 'I see it as a responsibility. If you close down, so many people will have to look for new jobs. And guests who love the food will be very sad.' He also cannot bear the thought of long-time regular customers saying that Putien is getting more expensive. "They should feel that Putien is still the same Putien they knew 20 years ago.' Mr Fong's two sons, aged 31 and 33, are both involved in running Putien. "Sometimes, I think, 'Why are my two sons so stupid?' They've joined me in this business. It's so difficult. Why don't they do something else? "But they are like me. They enjoy it. They have had an emotional connection to the restaurant since they were young.' As to whether he has thought about retiring and letting his sons take over, Mr Fong said it is not something he "dares to do" now given the market conditions. It would be an "irresponsible" move. There is also the sense that it can be a frightening prospect. "What's there to do after retirement? You can't drink all day. Your body won't be able to take it.' He might, when the day comes, take up painting again. He studied art before graduation and although the walls of his home are adorned with art pieces, none of the paintings are his. In case you are wondering, he does eat frequently at his own restaurants and also at high-end restaurants, but during his time off, his first choice is to tuck into hawker food. 'Every food court has good food,' he said, listing bak kut teh (pork bone soup), Hainanese chicken rice and laksa (noodles in spiced coconut milk broth) as his top three favourite dishes. 'A good friend took me to Katong to try a laksa he liked, but I prefer the one at Jalan Besar.' In his free time, he'll also play with his pet cats and dogs, and he has several in Singapore. Most were given up by other pet owners and taken in by him. 'When I'm away from Singapore, I insist the people at home send me pictures of my pets every day. Cats are more complex creatures. Dogs are just focused on their owners. I don't particularly train them. Just be kind to them and it's enough. "Just by looking into my eyes, they can tell what I want with more accuracy than people.' For now, though, an idyllic life isn't on the cards. Instead, he's turning his focus towards bringing established food-and-beverage brands from China into Singapore, including 'China's best dumplings, China's best fast food and China's best dim sum'. 'In China, everyone knows that if you go to Singapore, you have to look for Uncle Fong. I used to just focus on Putien but now, I think I can do this," he said. 'I think I've done enough in 25 years. I've done something meaningful. I've raised the profile of my hometown. I've helped many farmers. I've helped people learn to run restaurants. And I've brought Putian to prominence.'
South China Morning Post
2 days ago
- Business
- South China Morning Post
China closer to lifting Japanese seafood ban after ‘substantial progress' in talks
China on Friday appeared to move closer to lifting its ban on Japanese seafood imports, with the foreign ministry pledging to 'study' Tokyo's request on the matter. Advertisement The move is another sign that Beijing is trying to reset ties with its East Asian neighbour amid growing US trade uncertainty, according to an expert on China-Japan relations. The Chinese foreign ministry comment came in response to a media query about Japan's claim that the two sides had agreed on technical conditions for the resumption of such shipments. 'Relevant authorities will study Japan's request to resume exports of Japanese aquatic products to China in accordance with the principles of science and safety, domestic regulations and international trade rules,' ministry spokesman Lin Jian said. Hours earlier, Chinese customs confirmed 'substantial progress' in the new round of bilateral 'technical exchanges' over the safety of Japanese seafood held in Beijing on Wednesday, but offered no details. Advertisement According to Lin, Japan pledged during the talks to take 'credible and visible' measures to ensure the safety and quality of its seafood so as to meet China's regulatory standards.
