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Malay Mail
20-07-2025
- Business
- Malay Mail
FooTori doesn't chicken out on serving excellent ‘yakitori' in Kelana Jaya
PETALING JAYA, July 20 — In the last decade, the canon of Japanese food in the Klang Valley has grown from simple sushi and ramen places to include specialist tempura, soba and yakiniku restaurants, all executed with notable attention to detail. Even ramen has taken on a new polish, with focused, tightly curated shops emerging across the city. The most dramatic shift? The explosion of small, exclusive omakase-style sushi counters in the past five years, now seemingly everywhere, each offering its own take on refined, theatrical morsels of fish and rice, all for a couple hundred ringgit a pop. But one constant has been the izakaya scene. The allure of ice-cold, crisp Japanese beer, salty snacks and cheap skewers of grilled chicken has always sat well with the Klang Valley palate, with yakitori in particular gaining a strong following. For a while, any loud, rowdy izakaya was the place to find it, aside from longstanding yakitori specialists like Sumi-Ka in SS15 Subang Jaya. But just as ramen and sushi have been given the refined, polished treatment, yakitori is now starting to get the same. FooTori from the front. — Picture by Ethan Lau FooTori, which opened in Plaza Kelana Jaya in May, may not appear to be the epitome of sophistication at first glance. The central grilling area, framed by concrete and glass, feels more like a zoo exhibit than a grand stage for chefs. The rest of the furnishing is similarly austere. Grey exposed concrete features throughout, though it leans less towards industrial chic and more towards 'unfinished' chic. Still, some aspects have clearly been thought through. The air stays remarkably clear, without a hint of smoke. When we left, our clothes didn't carry any lingering scent, and the ventilation system manages all this without a horrid din. Being located in a commercial development as stark as this one probably doesn't help that perception. Three's company: sansho pepper, salt and pepper, and 'shichimi togarashi'. — Picture by Ethan Lau But this is the second restaurant by Chef Foo, formerly of Hinoiri in Bukit Jalil, who has already made this location work for his flagship, Sushi Foo, which is located just a few doors away. Foo spent close to 30 years working in Tokyo, and though he's known mostly for a sincere yet skilled take on sushi, he now intends to bring that same approach to yakitori. FooTori offers three levels of omakase: RM98 for eight skewers, four appetisers and a dessert; RM118 for 10 skewers; and RM138 for 12. It's a helpful introduction for those unfamiliar with the many different parts of a chicken. But for those already in the know, the à la carte menu is full of gems, if you know where to look. 'Kawa' or chicken skin, and 'sasami' or filet. — Picture by Ethan Lau Kawa, or chicken skin (RM6), is a delightful bite, shatteringly crisp and gleefully greasy. But it's the sasami, or filet (RM8), that shows there is more to the cooking here than meets the eye. When a cook places the stick in front of me, he explains that each piece of ghostly white meat is deliberately cooked to 'just done'. The centre is slightly pink, and it is undeniably on the rare side for chicken. He stresses the freshness of the bird being used, though he's happy to cook it further if I prefer. The chicken is still pink on the inside of the 'sasami'. — Picture by Ethan Lau On top of each piece is a daub of wasabi. It's a meaty, tender mouthful, and simply unlike any piece of white meat you will ever experience. I put my trust in the kitchen that night, just as I did nearly a decade ago at Yakitori Masakichi in Tokyo, which had been featured on Netflix's Ugly Delicious. That was the first time I encountered chicken prepared this way, down to the same presentation with the dabs of wasabi and the chicken grilled to medium rare. It was monumental for me then, and it is deeply satisfying for me now to see this becoming more common in the Klang Valley. Hopefully, it points to a shift in how diners approach and appreciate yakitori. Other parts may not require quite the same amount of guts to tackle, but they are no less impressive. 'Momo' or thigh, a second order of 'kawa', and 'obi' or inner thigh. — Picture by Ethan Lau Fans of dark meat will enjoy the momo, or thigh (RM6), and obi, or inner thigh (RM10), each offering a different expression of chicken at its most juicy and bouncy. Bonjiri, or tail (RM8), is essentially the butt, and while it has the potential to taste off, it's been prepared well here, retaining just enough fat for flavour and cartilage for crunch. On the topic of cartilage, the nankotsu or soft bone (RM6) is the ultimate stick for texture. 'Nankotsu' or soft bone and 'leba' or liver. — Picture by Ethan Lau Crunchy, snappy and perfect for dipping into the sansho pepper, salt or shichimi togarashi mix, cuts like this are what make yakitori such a good match for guzzling down pints of cold beer. It would be remiss not to mention the lush leba, or liver (RM8). Grilled with just a small hint of sweet tare, it avoids the unpleasant metallic notes of iron and leaves only a rich, creamy texture to enjoy. A calling card for any 'yakitori' place is the 'tsukune' or meatball. — Picture by Ethan Lau And finally, no yakitori place can be taken seriously without considering its tsukune, or meatball (RM6). FooTori's is tightly packed, with a slight crust from the caramelisation of the tare on the outside, and is a dream to dip and swirl through the raw egg yolk and sweet, salty tare mixture. At a glance, FooTori probably looks unassuming as all get out. A closer look reveals an attention to detail that belies its decor, and a mastery of preparation and technique that can only come from experience, something Foo, an older man who's done his time, wears plainly. But that's the whole idea: a simple, unpretentious set-up, from which he serves excellence. At a time when yakitori is starting to stretch beyond cheap, by-the-numbers izakaya food, FooTori arrives to stake its claim, particularly by not chickening out from serving 'rare' chicken. If this is where things are headed, I'm all for it. FooTori ぷ鸟 B-08-1, Plaza Kelana Jaya, Jalan SS 7/13A, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm-12am Tel: 010-256 2279 Instagram: @foo_tori * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. * Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems. * Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
CBS News
18-07-2025
- Entertainment
- CBS News
Midorie is an affordable hidden gem tucked in Coconut Grove
Exceptional food and top-notch hospitality are the name of the game at Midorie, a charming hidden gem tucked inside a cozy courtyard off Main Highway in Coconut Grove. Renowned restaurateur Alvaro Perez Miranda opened this price-friendly concept about two-and-a-half years ago, creating an intimate experience designed around kikubari, which is the Japanese art of caring for others. Inside, just 10 seats line the sleek sushi counter, while the outdoor terrace seats another 12. "It's a little place that is focused on quality over quantity. The sushi is amazing. We bring fish in from Japan. Our bowls are unbelievable. There's a sushi platter, and we do 'to-go', it's perfect for the community," Perez Miranda said, The name Midorie means "green" in Japanese, which is reflected in the vibrant main wall adorned with a 400-fish ceramic installation by local artist Jaudtani. A passionate art collector, Perez Miranda was born in Venezuela, lived in Tokyo for 15 years and has the distinct honor of being the first Latino in the U.S. appointed as a Goodwill Ambassador for Japanese cuisine. "What I wanted to do here was bring people back to Japan," he said. "Everyone who comes says, 'Wow, the quality is just amazing,' and that is Japan." That commitment to quality, thoughtful service and fair pricing is what keeps local customers coming back. "This place stood out like a family. I've been coming here for years. My daughter, my wife, my extended parents, everyone loved it because the quality was there, but it's also at a really cost-effective rate," Zachary Cohen said. Natalie Pons echoed that sentiment. "I love everything about this place. Everything it represented. The community it built, and the people behind it. And of course, the fresh fish," she said. That fish is prepared with precision and passion by Chef Hiro Asano. A fan-favorite, the Midorie Bowl, features sushi rice, sesame seeds, braised shiitake mushrooms, cucumber, edamame, diced salmon, tuna and blue crab, finished with a creamy yuzu avocado purée. Perez Miranda, whose portfolio includes several standout Japanese spots in South Florida like the Michelin-starred Ogawa in Miami's Little River, delivers that same quality here with this price-friendly dishes. The Hamachi Bowl follows suit with yellowtail and soba noodles, instead of rice, topped with a tangy ginger dressing. On a crispy high note there is temaki sushi, or handroll in Japanese. Theirs comes stuffed with striped bass, scallions, and ginger. It must be eaten immediately to preserve the perfect crunch. You'll know you've found Midorie once you're inside the courtyard at Grove Village, right next to Avance Hair Salon. It's open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.
Khaleej Times
18-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Dubai: Japanese eatery Umi Kei is a tribute to tradition
It's official: I have found the chicest restaurant in Dubai. Umi Kei engulfed me in an instant sense of muted harmony, with soft lighting encased in gentle cedar and bamboo panels. The venue is centred on the overtly traditional sushi bar, complete with a display of the freshest and highest-grade fish Dubai has to offer, and surrounded by high chairs for those who wish to enjoy a more casual dining experience. We sat adjacent to the sushi bar and robata grill, ensuring we kept our eyes on all the action. As we discovered upon exploring the menu, Umi Kei is part of 'The Fore' — a network of four restaurants within the heart of Marsa Al Arab. This allowed us to order a delightful beverage from a neighbouring restaurant while pouring over the dishes available within Umi Kei. Our smart and passionate waitress talked us through the menu and the concept, and then took us through the daily 'fish market'. This was presented in a handai (traditional Japanese wooden bowl) and showcased a host of rare and delicious sea-born delights, including caviar, a whole squid, and lobster tails, among others. We proceeded to choose the lobster tail to be cooked on the robata grill for later in the meal. To start, we indulged in the fresh hamachi carpaccio, served atop a spicy, citrusy, buttery cream sauce and topped with a vast amount of finely chopped chives. Both simple and flavourful, this was an elegant start to an elegant meal. We also enjoyed the tempura shishito peppers, topped with a perfectly light shiso leaf. The fresh raw fish against the lightly battered peppers bounced off one another in a playful dance of flavours. From the dishes that followed, some of our favourites included the A5 wagyu, cooked to a perfect rare temperature on the fiery grill and served with togarashi seasoning. In true surf-and-turf fashion, this was served at the same time as the Hokkaido scallops. These were true stars — sat in a zesty cream and topped with chive oil and salmon roe, they embodied everything one would look for in such a dish: salty, sweet, and acidic. Following our main courses, the desserts continued to uphold the same level of flavour and impressiveness. The matcha cheesecake was rich and creamy, with gentle notes of high-grade matcha and not a hint of bitterness in sight. Overall, this restaurant offers diners a true sense of zen and can only be described as a minimalist haven that whispers tradition in every dish. Hero dish: The Hokkaido scallops were the perfect indulgence – 9/10 Senses: The low-lit, effortlessly refined venue stirred happiness and pleasure in all — 8/10 Menu curation: As serene and precision-led as every other aspect of the venue — 8/10 Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, Dubai, 800 323232
New York Times
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Omakase Has Gotten Out of Hand. Mori Nozomi Is the Sublime Answer.
Start with chawanmushi, trembling under a bitter ginkgo nut. Next, the supple muscle of snapper, luminous with yuzu. When the fish is gone, a server recalibrates the sauce that's left with dashi, so you can drink it. (Yes, you want to drink it.) The chef Nozomi Mori is at work behind the counter: She etches her blade into the milky top of a scallop so it yields its sweetness more immediately. She carves sheer petals out of swordtip squid — changing the way you'll receive it — before pressing it into an airy cushion of rice. At her eight-seat sushi counter Mori Nozomi, Ms. Mori is serving a 26-course omakase with precise control of texture and seasoning, cooking with a deep intelligence for the mechanics of tongue and teeth, for the sensual machinery of the mouth. (How many chefs forget about this? Let's be honest, how many chefs never understood it to begin with?) Los Angeles is the sprawling sushi capital of the country, bending and breaking so many of the rules established for it in Japan, even as it replicates others. Before the chef Niki Nakayama was known for her Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant n/naka, she had a sushi bar on Melrose Avenue where Japanese men would sometimes walk in, see who was cooking — a woman? — and turn right around. Excluding women from sushi might be seen as part of the tradition of sushi. It's why, a quarter of a century later, Ms. Mori still draws attention for her all-women team. But the thrill of Mori Nozomi is in Ms. Mori's distinct style as a chef — the way she annotates the singular focus of the omakase with some of the more complex, seasonal digressions of kaiseki and rituals of the Japanese tea ceremony. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Zawya
08-07-2025
- Business
- Zawya
South Africa's fish exports outrun inflation, gains global traction
South Africa's fish and seafood sector is showing strong export performance, outpacing inflation. According to Eighty20, a consumer and data science company that highlights shifting consumer trends in retail and brand preferences across income levels, the sector, buoyed by South Africa's nearly 3,000km of coastline and a R19.9bn marine economy, recorded an 8.6% increase in seafood exports in 2024, reaching R9bn. Exports were led by fresh fish (40% of SA exports) and molluscs like cuttlefish and abalone (30%), with key markets including Spain (25.5%), Italy (18.2%), and the US (9%). The US dominates fresh whole fish imports, consuming 60% of South Africa's fresh exports. On the local front, seafood imports totalled R5.4bn, with Namibia, Norway and China leading as suppliers. Norwegian exports to South Africa are predominantly fresh salmon — 82% of fish exports, a reflection of the growing sushi market, both in grocers and restaurants. 'Sushi sits right at the intersection of South African consumer trends: it's fast, fresh and aspirational,' says Andrew Fulton, director at Eighty20. 'Our recent fish-focused Fact-a-Day content reminds us how global and local forces work together—from Norwegian salmon on Cape Town shelves to sardines powering transformation in the local fishing industry.' Retailers have adapted radpidly, with sushi offerings now prevalent in most of our local grocers, offering prepackaged sushi-to-go. Sushi also holds 6% of the national restaurant category share, according to Global Data, illustrating its popularity among urban consumers seeking healthier, innovative meals. The broader fishing industry shows modest growth While South Africa's appetite for ready-to-eat sushi continues to grow, the broader fishing industry has delivered mixed performance with modest growth overall. Export markets have remained relatively stable, particularly for premium products like abalone and lobster, but profitability pressures have intensified across major players. The sector's largest companies have shown divergent trajectories. Sea Harvest Group posted revenue of R7.2bn for FY 2024, an increase of 16%, alongside operating profit growth of 26%. In contrast, Oceana Group shows revenue growth of 2.9% year-on-year in their March 2025 interim results, while operating profit declined 33.5%. Meanwhile, I&J recorded a revenue decline of 1.1% in its most recent 2024 financial statements. Tinned fish remains a national staple, with Eighty20's analysis of MAPS data shows that two-thirds of South Africans buy tinned fish monthly across all incomes, owing to demand for affordable shelf-stable protein due to cost-of-living challenges amongst all South Africans. While tinned fish consumption matches LSM and SEM distribution, brand loyalty is fairly clear, with John West and Mayfair represented more in higher-income groups, while Koo and Lucky Star are more consumed in the mass market, even though Oceana, owner of the Lucky Star brand recently pointed out growth at retailers such as Woolworths. The sector also delivers unexpected stories — Lesotho, a landlocked country, exported over R12m in fish to the US in 2023 and has previously shipped sushi-grade fish to Japan. 'As global demand continues and local preferences evolve, South Africa's seafood economy is proving both adaptable and essential, connecting traditional staples to modern convenience and international trade,' concludes Fulton.
