Latest news with #tailoring
CTV News
2 days ago
- Business
- CTV News
Designer jeans looked ‘clownish,' B.C. tribunal finds, dismissing tailor's claim
A stack of denim jeans is seen in this stock image. ( A B.C. tailor has lost his bid to make a former client pay for alterations to a $500 pair of jeans, with the province's small claims tribunal agreeing with the client that the pants in question looked 'clownish.' Andy Yuen Design Inc. took customer Paul Tronsgard to the Civil Resolution Tribunal seeking $301.35 for time the company's owner – Andy Yuen – spent consulting on and modifying the jeans. In a decision on the case published Friday, tribunal vice chair Eric Regehr describes Tronsgard as a 'loyal customer' of AYD, who had purchased jeans from the company in the past. In July 2023, he placed a new order for two tailored shirts and a tailored pair of jeans. The jeans cost $505 plus tax, and AYD was supposed to use jeans it had made for Tronsgard in the past as a template, according to the decision. 'The jeans were ready in October 2023,' the decision reads. 'Mr. Tronsgard tried them on at an Oct. 14 fitting. He was not pleased. He says AYD had used a 'dress pant' template rather than a 'jeans' template. As a result, Mr. Tronsgard said that the side and back pocket styles were wrong and there were too many belt loops. He also says the jeans did not fit.' For its part, AYD told the tribunal the jeans met Tronsgard's specifications, but it agreed to alter them for a fee. Two more fittings were held, according to the decision, with Tronsgard leaving abruptly in the middle of the second. He told the tribunal he left because he had 'lost faith in Mr. Yuen and was increasingly uncomfortable dealing with him.' AYD brought its claim to the tribunal based on the contract it had with Tronsgard, which included the following phrase: 'Alteration is not included for shirt and jeans.' The question, according to Regehr, was whether the modifications Tronsgard sought after the initial delivery of the jeans qualified as 'alterations.' The tribunal member concluded that they did not, reasoning that an objective bystander would understand that a person purchasing tailored clothing is paying a premium to be able to choose fabric and style, and to ensure that the clothes fit their body. 'It runs against this purpose for the customer to pay for adjustments when the initial product does not meet these expectations,' the decision reads. 'I find that the term 'alterations' does not capture adjustments to ensure the correct style and a proper fit. Rather, I find that the term would apply if the customer wanted something changed from the initial design.' The decision notes that Tronsgard provided photos comparing his previous AYD-made jeans with the most recent pair. Regehr found the photos made it 'obvious' that AYD had made 'considerable mistakes' when making the new jeans. Both the back and side pockets on the new pair were designed in a style 'typical of dress pants' rather than jeans, according to the decision. 'While AYD says the new jeans met Mr. Tronsgard's specifications, it does not specifically explain these issues,' the decision reads. 'As for the fit, I agree with Mr. Tronsgard that the new jeans have excess room around the hips and taper suddenly to a snugger fit on the thighs. Mr. Tronsgard describes the resulting look as 'clownish,' and I find that is an apt description.' Regehr concluded that the changes to the jeans were not alterations under the parties' contract, and that the contract said consultation fees were waived for customers who made a purchase, which Tronsgard had done. Thus, the tribunal member dismissed AYD's claims.
Forbes
31-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Forbes
Summer Plans? Here's How To Dress Sharp And Stay Cool
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 21: Alex Badia wears black sunglasses, a white shirt, a gray linen tie, a gray ... More matching linen blazer jacket, gray matching suit pants, gold and silver bracelets, a silver watch, a gold chain bracelet, during the Bluemarble show, during Paris Fashion Week Menswear Spring Summer 2023, on June 21, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by) With Memorial Day behind us, the unofficial start of summer is underway. But with it comes the uncomfortable reality that dressing well gets trickier as the temperatures rise. Staying cool while looking sharp isn't always easy—especially with weddings, graduations, and vacations on the horizon. Now's the time to start shopping for the best way to dress this summer. To paraphrase Aristotle, the whole of a suit is often greater than the sum of its parts. That's largely because suiting is made up of two distinct components: the jacket and the trousers. Each one plays a crucial role in shaping your overall silhouette—and they need to be in conversation with each other for the look to truly work. When it comes to dressing for summer, this idea becomes even more important. Unlike the standard black or navy suits that carry you through most of the year, summer tailoring doesn't follow a strict blueprint. That means every decision—whether it's the cut of the jacket, the fabric of the trousers or something as small as choosing to wear socks—has a bigger impact. And when temperatures rise, the line between 'refined' and 'disheveled' becomes much easier to cross. For summer tailoring, breathability should be a top priority. It's best to set aside trimmer, more structured suits until the weather cools down, and instead opt for an unlined jacket paired with trousers that offer a bit more room. A relaxed cut not only keeps you cooler but also feels more in step with the season's ease. As Dan Trepanier of bespoke tailoring shop Articles of Style puts it, 'Guys are tired of the very slim and tapered pants—a wide leg is no longer more romantic, but breathes much better.' But cut is only half the battle. Most suit jackets come fully lined, which adds unnecessary insulation and traps body heat—hardly ideal when temperatures soar. Emily Young Zimmerman, founder of the custom clothing brand Label, often encourages her clients to choose a more weather-appropriate construction. 'I always recommend going with something unstructured or half-lined,' she says. 'It makes such a difference in the heat—lighter, more breathable and just more comfortable overall. You still look sharp, but without feeling like you're melting.' Lastly, consider the style of suit itself. A single-breasted jacket remains a safe, versatile choice that works across nearly every summer occasion. It's streamlined, flattering and won't overwhelm in the heat. A double-breasted suit, while stylish, carries extra fabric across the chest that can make it feel overly warm during the height of summer. Irish Linen Trouser by Articles of Style Even with the right suit construction, without choosing the right fabric, all that effort to stay cool is for nothing. During summer, the options are limited to a few core fabrics that don't retain heat and look stylish for the season: linen, seersucker and tropical wool. Linen easily reigns supreme during the hotter months. With its organic texture, lightweight weave and natural color palette, it carries a charm that cotton often can't replicate. Linen suits are typically unlined, lending a slouchier, more relaxed silhouette that suits the fabric's breezy nature. Still, the inevitable wrinkles can leave some feeling like it's not as polished as their usual go-to. While that may be true to an extent, there's a certain ease—and elegance—in linen's imperfections that can, and should, be embraced. Luckily, for those looking to invest in a linen suit, there are options at every price point and in a range of styles. For a more classic approach, Proper Cloth's linen Bedford suit blends traditional tailoring with breathable linen in a variety of neutral tones. long-standing favorite, the Ludlow suit, offers an off-the-rack option that's durable enough for regular wear—ideal for anyone seeking a more budget-friendly pick. Similarly, The Tie Bar's Lakeshore linen suit is a no-frills choice that makes getting dressed in summer a little easier. For a more casual look with separates that can be mixed and matched, Alex Crane offers some of the most versatile linen pieces on the market. And for those interested in going bespoke, brands like Cad & The Dandy, Brooks Brothers and Hockerty all provide customizable linen suiting to suit your individual needs and budget. Alternatively, seersucker remains a steadfast warm-weather favorite—especially for those who appreciate a touch of New England preppiness. With its signature rippled texture and lightweight construction, seersucker brings all the personality of linen but with a bit more structure. While linen often leans into muted, neutral tones, seersucker holds color well, making it an ideal option for those who feel most at home in classic navy or black. Like linen, it's available at a wide range of price points and in various styles. Contemporary brands like Buck Mason and Taylor Stitch offer modern takes on the fabric, while J. Press and The Armoury embrace more traditional, heritage-inspired designs. Lastly, tropical wool may sound like an oxymoron, but it's a warm-weather favorite among designers like Dan Trepanier. As he explains, 'For a more classic suit, a great option is tropical wool. A lot of people have this misunderstanding of wool—it can actually be the lightest and most breathable textile.' For those seeking a suit that's a bit more polished than linen or seersucker, tropical wool offers the perfect middle ground. Both Articles of Style, Trepanier's own brand, and Todd Snyder offer refined takes in this fabric, ideal for summer events that call for something elevated yet breathable. The Armoury Spring/Summer 2025 Linen City Hunter III Jacket The final element for warm-weather dressing is choosing the right accessories. For Perry Ellis' creative director, Michael Millie, the best warm-weather accessory is anything vibrant and colorful. 'Don't hesitate to incorporate bold, unexpected prints with formal wear, balancing traditional elements with personal style for a look that's both respectful and distinctive.' This can be through something as traditional as a tie (think a floral one, like this option from Eton) to something a bit more irreverent, like a pocket square (British designer Paul Smith has a variety to choose from). Having an eye-catching element can help break up the monotony of an otherwise neutral color palette. To balance out a pop of color in your summer tailoring, it's best to keep your accessories on the more traditional side. Stick with neutral tones—especially when it comes to belts and shoes—and lean toward browns rather than blacks, which create a softer, less stark contrast against lighter fabrics and bolder hues. When it comes to footwear, loafers are the go-to choice. Few brands have gained steady traction in recent years quite like Sabah, known for their handmade slip-ons inspired by traditional Turkish designs. Their laid-back silhouette pairs especially well with more relaxed summer suiting. For a more classic take, both Blackstock & Weber and Ferragamo offer a wide range of loafers, from sleek penny styles to chunkier lug soles, depending on your taste. And for those drawn to minimalism with a slightly avant-garde edge, French shoemaker Jacques Solovière strikes that perfect balance. MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 17: A guest wears black sunglasses, a white shirt, a blue / brown / beige pearls ... More long necklace, a beige blazer jacket, white latte suit pants, dark blue shiny leather with silver logo buckle loafers from Salvatore Ferragamo, outside Dolce & Gabbana, during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 on June 17, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by)
New York Times
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Dandy Attire for a Night at the Opera
You don't need a ticket to experience some of the romance of Lincoln Center's operas and ballets. Arrive about an hour before showtime on a spring evening and you can freely observe people in varied finery making their way up the plaza's steps and past its fountain. Amid the parade of evening wear and cocktail attire on a Friday in early May, James R. Palmisano emerged from stage right — more precisely, from the northern edge of the performing arts complex on Manhattan's Upper West Side. Mr. Palmisano, 32, who was on his way to see 'Salome' at the Metropolitan Opera, looked dashing in his ensemble of double-breasted jacket, pleated trousers and blue shirt and tie. He had bought the jacket secondhand a few years ago in Brighton, England, he said. He noted that his appreciation for clothes had been shaped by his job as a tailor at the Met Opera, where he had worked on productions including, yes, 'Salome.' 'Our head tailors are very skilled and they're good at getting the fit right,' Mr. Palmisano said. 'They're quite particular at the opera about that, so it's really enjoyable to see them work and to learn why certain things are done to get a shape for a particular person. You have to start somewhere, and you have to start with it on your body.' When asked if there was any styling advice he would give to men in today's trend-forward era, Mr. Palmisano had three suggestions: Groom regularly, dress classically and stay away from synthetic fabrics. 'They don't feel nice,' he said. 'They don't last long.' Tap to see more looks
Times
26-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Times
Holy hosiery: meet the Pope's sock maker
With world fame, world peace and a whole canon of other rather pressing demands in his in-tray, one can imagine that Pope Leo XIV will be grateful that there is at least one thing he never has to think about in his new role: where to buy his socks. On Rome's Via di Santa Chiara, snugly tucked behind the Pantheon — two and a half kilometres due east of Vatican City and the clerical wardrobe it has furnished for more than two centuries — sits Sartoria Gammarelli, purveyors of ecclesiastical clothing. This is our Pope's predestined destination for sock shopping. It has been tailor to the head of the Catholic church, head to toe, since 1798. If you have ever wondered where the holiest of hosiery is designed, look here. Gammarelli, a family-run outfit that has been in business for six generations, is something of a one-stop shop for the full, official papal look. Like everything else it makes, its socks are handmade for sitting popes from the finest materials. Upon completion, they are carefully packaged — not in multipacks but in individual pairs in fine tissue paper and delivered to the Apostolic Palace. • Read more luxury reviews, advice and insights from our experts Every day, for the rest of his days, Pope Leo will pull on the same iteration of knee-high red or white socks. This has less to do with personal preference than tradition: each pair is crafted bespoke for him, as his predecessors' were, by the head tailor at Gammarelli. In a life of dedicated piety, slipping them on is surely a plush perk. These socks are made of delicately woven silk. Planning for Leo's personal collection will have begun well before the cardinals cast their final vote this month. During conclave, Gammarelli is as hotly watched as the colour of the smoke that plumes from the Sistine Chapel chimney. Prior to a papal election the store displays three freshly sewn papal robes — from cassock and mozzetta cape to skull cap — in its windows, in small, medium and large. Its tailors are ready at any moment to transport one — or two, measurements pending — of these, and their operation, to Vatican City. There, they will fit and dress the pope-elect for his first public appearance. The Holy Father is the only client to receive such VIP treatment. Everyone else must make their own pilgrimage to Gammarelli's store. And they do: in droves. Priests come from all over the world to visit Gammarelli. So do their fans — including the global editor at large for Vogue Hamish Bowles — to purchase their own £41 pairs of socks in colours for every date in the Catholic liturgical calendar: green for everyday, purple for Lent and Advent, and red for Pentecost. Online, scarlet, black and violet versions are stocked on But it is only Il Papa who can wear the white styles. His uniform is sacred and unchanging. Like Steve Jobs with his black polonecks and Barack Obama with his blue or grey suits, the Pope knows that not wondering what to wear in the morning is a great luxury, enabling him to fully engage with higher matters.
BBC News
19-05-2025
- Business
- BBC News
Ukrainian seamstress goes from shelling to sewing in Portishead
A professionally trained seamstress who was forced to flee war-torn Ukraine has brought her skills to Shkurat is from Sumy, on the Russian border, which was occupied by Russian forces when the invasion first began three years ago."I was worried - we live near the Airport and near a small army area - which was bombed first. All stuff from Russia crossed our city. Bombs, rockets and drones – they were in the sky every night," she has now settled in Portishead, near Bristol, and has launched a small business offering tailoring services on the High Street which has proved popular with locals. When her hometown came under heavy shelling Ms Shkurat decided to leave with her husband and two children and managed to relocate to the UK."Just last month our city was bombed by rockets and was damaged a lot in the centre," she said."One of the places that was bombed was where my daughter used to dance." Her elderly father chose to stay in Sumy - and she said she has many regrets about leaving him - and her home - behind. "We miss the life, you know. I have lost everything and I miss everything," she said."It's not only home, but memories, pictures of my children from their childhood. My mum died 10 days before the war and I cannot visit her grave."She said the war has been like a terrible dream and she still "can't believe it is real". But she said her new business has helped her feel "useful"."People come to me, they smile, they love my job and it is most important to be useful here," she said.
