Latest news with #Dior
Fashion Network
5 hours ago
- Lifestyle
- Fashion Network
Jonathan Anderson reinvents JW Anderson as lifestyle brand
There's been a lot of speculation about what would happen to Dior creative supremo Jonathan Anderson's signature JW Anderson brand since he took on the combined women's and men's role at Dior. And now it seems that the brand is being reinvented with a lifestyle retailer focus. Anderson in recent months has become the first Dior creative chief to oversee both the women's (including couture) and men's collections since Christian Dior himself. And that's a big job. While it was possible to continue with JW Anderson as a full fashion offer when he was Loewe creative director, the size and importance of the Dior brand and the huge number of collections it produces mean it was seen as very unlikely that JWA would continue unchanged. The label's Instagram page talks of 'new beginnings July 2025 featuring a preview of what's to come' and there are images of classic fashion items but also lifestyle, home and craft pieces. Another post also shows new packaging. And it seems that one of the most time-consuming focuses for a designer brand — runway shows — are being paused indefinitely. In an interview with American trade paper WWD, he said seasonal runway collections won't happen and the London and Milan stores are being closed before reopening in September. Other London stores will also open, along with locations in New York and Paris. There will be a big focus on craft and lifestyle products from other brands (including Wedgwood, Hope Springs and Lucie Gledhill Jewellery). It feels very much like the label transitioning to being a multi-brand and own-brand retailer but a very exclusive and quirky one. Fashion-wise, expect a slow fashion approach with new styles, colours and so on when it feels right rather than because the season has changed. Anderson also said lifestyle guru Terence Conran (founder of the Habitat chain) was an inspiration in the revamp.
Fashion Network
5 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris haute couture expecting quiet season, even as jewelry booms
Paris is expecting one of the quietest haute couture seasons in memory — devoid of shows by Dior, Gaultier or Valentino and of any major debut, albeit as the parallel high jewelry season continues to expand rapidly. See catwalk In the wake of Maria Grazia Chiuri 's departure from Dior and her successor Jonathan Anderson's decision to concentrate on menswear with his acclaimed open show in June, the house is skipping the season. Valentino is also taking a break, robbing the calendar of another one of its favorites. Furthermore, Jean Paul Gaultier — following the appointment of Duran Lantink as the founder's ultimate successor in April — has brought to a halt its much-admired strategy of staging a couture collection designed by a visiting guest talent. Balenciaga will stage the final collection by its departing creative director Demna, who leaves to take over as designer of Gucci, another brand within the troubled Kering luxury empire. Informed couture fans will certainly profit from next week in Paris to see "Balenciaga by Demna," a résumé exhibition curated by Demna of 101 selected hits from his decade at the house from 2015–2025 — staged at Kering's headquarters inside the historic Laennec landmark on rue de Sèvres on the Left Bank. A highly impressive display of design codes, volumes, silhouettes and attitudes that have defined the Georgia-born designer's unique oeuvre. "Balenciaga by Demna" includes a catalog, designed like a glossy fashion magazine, and the complete collection of all his Balenciaga cool conceptual show invites. It is on view from June 26 through July 9 and is open to the public. His invitation to Balenciaga this season is a spool of golden wire thread, and his final Paris fête will be in Maxim 's. Maurice Chevalier would have approved. Two ready-to-wear houses have jumped on the bandwagon to stage shows on Sunday, July 6: Patou in the evening and Celine at 2 p.m. In effect, the debut of Michael Rider at Celine may well turn out to be the biggest show of the week — though he has a very hard act to follow, seeing as his predecessor Hedi Slimane tripled annual sales to over €2 billion in his seven-year tenure. The season also boasts shows by critically acclaimed couturiers, from avant-gardists like Iris Van Herpen and Viktor & Rolf to classicists such as Elie Saab and Giambattista Valli, and fresh talent like Julie de Libran, Ashi Studio and Yuima Nakazato. The couture season, which runs from Monday, July 7 to Thursday, July 10, features a respectable 24 houses on the official calendar, including double shows by Armani Privé and Chanel. The latter will be the final show designed by an in-house studio. The house's new designer, Matthieu Blazy, stages his first show in October. Though in a sense, Chanel has already kicked off the season with a dazzling display of haute joaillerie inside its Place Vendôme boutique and showroom on Friday afternoon. It turned out to be a brilliant display, containing the final collection of the house's elegantly skilled jewelry designer Patrice Leguéreau, who died last November. A meeting of three key elements in Coco Chanel's DNA — stars, wings and her favorite symbol, the lion — it marked a brilliant creative adieu by Leguéreau. The presentation featured multiple highlights, such as the "Wings of Chanel" diamond necklace, centered around a 19.55-carat sapphire and priced at €11 million. More than a decade ago, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion's governing body, designated the final day of couture to high-end jewelry — when star brands of the caliber of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron would stage private viewings and exclusive dinners. Subsequently, couture has been invaded by international jewelry brands and the jewelry divisions of top fashion labels, fighting for attention when thousands of VIP clients, hundreds of editors and scores of influence peddlers are in Paris. The array is impressive — from Damiani, the Italian luxury jeweler that celebrated its centenary last year, to Serendipity, from the talented Chinese jeweler Christine Chen, which will be shown in Musée Guimet, Paris' key museum of Asian art. Or one can go to Sotheby's Paris HQ where Greek creator Niko Koulis will present 30 exceptional pieces and 10 event-specific creations in a debut selling exhibition. The more commercially inclined will attend David Yurman 's couture breakfast at his rue Saint-Honoré showroom. Others will seek out the debut of yet another jeweler: Sahag Arslanian. The third generation of a family of diamond experts with over 70 years of legacy rooted in Antwerp, Arslanian will officially launch his own first high jewelry collection. Part of a week where the best-heeled women in the world converge on Paris to acquire the most elegant and expensive creations the City of Light can offer.
Fashion Network
5 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'
Fashion Network
8 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'
Fashion Network
8 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris haute couture expecting quiet season, even as jewellery booms
Paris is expecting one of the quietest haute couture seasons in memory — devoid of shows by Dior, Gaultier or Valentino and of any major debut, albeit as the parallel high jewellery season continues to expand rapidly. See catwalk In the wake of Maria Grazia Chiuri 's departure from Dior and her successor Jonathan Anderson's decision to concentrate on menswear with his acclaimed open show in June, the house is skipping the season. Valentino is also taking a break, robbing the calendar of another one of its favourites. Furthermore, Jean Paul Gaultier — following the appointment of Duran Lantink as the founder's ultimate successor in April — has brought to a halt its much-admired strategy of staging a couture collection designed by a visiting guest talent. Balenciaga will stage the final collection by its departing creative director, Demna, who is leaving to take over as designer of Gucci, another brand within the troubled Kering luxury empire. Informed couture fans will certainly profit from next week in Paris to see "Balenciaga by Demna," a résumé exhibition curated by Demna of 101 selected hits from his decade at the house from 2015–2025 — staged at Kering's headquarters inside the historic Laennec landmark on rue de Sèvres on the Left Bank. A highly impressive display of design codes, volumes, silhouettes and attitudes that have defined the Georgia-born designer's unique oeuvre. "Balenciaga by Demna" includes a catalogue designed like a glossy fashion magazine and the complete collection of all his Balenciaga cool conceptual show invites. It is on view from 26 June through 9 July and is open to the public. His invitation to Balenciaga this season is a spool of golden wire thread, and his final Paris fête will be in Maxim 's. Maurice Chevalier would have approved. Two ready-to-wear houses have jumped on the bandwagon to stage shows on Sunday, 6 July: Patou in the evening and Celine at 2 p.m. In effect, the debut of Michael Rider at Celine may well turn out to be the biggest show of the week — though he has a very hard act to follow, seeing as his predecessor Hedi Slimane tripled annual sales to over €2 billion in his seven-year tenure. The season also features shows by critically acclaimed couturiers, including avant-gardists such as Iris Van Herpen and Viktor & Rolf, as well as classicists like Elie Saab and Giambattista Valli, alongside fresh talent like Julie de Libran, Ashi Studio, and Yuima Nakazato. The couture season, which runs from Monday, 7 July to Thursday, 10 July, features a respectable 24 houses on the official calendar, including double shows by Armani Privé and Chanel. The latter will be the final show designed by an in-house studio. The house's new designer, Matthieu Blazy, stages his first show in October. Though in a sense, Chanel has already kicked off the season with a dazzling display of haute joaillerie inside its Place Vendôme boutique and showroom on Friday afternoon. It turned out to be a brilliant display, containing the final collection of the house's elegantly skilled jewellery designer Patrice Leguéreau, who died last November. A meeting of three key elements in Coco Chanel's DNA — stars, wings and her favourite symbol, the lion — it marked a brilliant creative adieu by Leguéreau. The presentation featured multiple highlights, such as the "Wings of Chanel" diamond necklace, centred around a 19.55-carat sapphire and priced at €11 million. More than a decade ago, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion's governing body, designated the final day of couture to high-end jewellery — when star brands of the calibre of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron would stage private viewings and exclusive dinners. Subsequently, couture has been invaded by international jewellery brands and the jewellery divisions of top fashion labels, fighting for attention when thousands of VIP clients, hundreds of editors and scores of influence peddlers are in Paris. The array is impressive — from Damiani, the Italian luxury jeweller that celebrated its centenary last year, to Serendipity, from the talented Chinese jeweller Christine Chen, which will be shown in Musée Guimet, Paris' key museum of Asian art. Or one can go to Sotheby's Paris HQ, where Greek creator Niko Koulis will present 30 exceptional pieces and 10 event-specific creations in a debut selling exhibition. The more commercially inclined will attend David Yurman 's couture breakfast at his rue Saint-Honoré showroom. Others will seek out the debut of yet another jeweller: Sahag Arslanian. The third generation of a family of diamond experts with over 70 years of legacy rooted in Antwerp, Arslanian will officially launch his own first high jewellery collection. Part of a week where the best-heeled women in the world converge on Paris to acquire the most elegant and expensive creations the City of Light can offer.
