Does this reborn Malaysian institution still deliver after six decades? Here's our verdict

The Age

12-05-2025

The Harry Seidler-designed site (Neil Perry once ran Rosetta here) features floor-to-ceiling windows and a colour scheme marrying birch, black, red and blue. In the first of many nods to its history, the original Finnish-designed chairs for the 180-seat restaurant have been re-ordered. There are three dining spaces across two levels, with the main area in front of the kitchen led by head chef Siang Yeo and with David Ma on sous duties. (Ma started as a kitchen hand in 2010, and three of the wok chefs have collectively notched up almost 60 years with The Malaya team.)
Chicken satay is a great litmus test at Malaysian restaurants, and this is one of the most tender versions in town. Otak otak – parcels of minced fish and spices wrapped in banana leaf before being grilled – are juicy and aromatic with lemongrass notes embracing barramundi.
It's hard to imagine a laksa without coconut milk, but the ingredient was hard to come by in 1963 (even for a merchant sailor), so dairy milk was used as a substitute. Sydney is full of great laksas but many are guilty of skimping on that signature fiery spice paste. The Malaya's version certainly doesn't. It's a great bowl with perfectly cooked prawns, but I wonder how good it would eat with coconut milk instead.
The XO pipis have sold out by 7.30pm on a Saturday, but this turns out to be a fruitful pivot to another seafood dish, the kam heong mud crab. Literally translated to 'golden fragrance' in Cantonese, the mud crab is tossed in spices and curry leaves, with dried shrimp boosting the umami of the sweet crustacean meat. Outstanding.