On International Chardonnay Day we trace the wine's growing journey in India

The Hindu

22-05-2025

Chardonnay's shapeshifting quality enables it to be a humble crowd-pleaser as well as a command a dizzying prize for its finest expression. Oaked, unoaked, fruity, buttery, having undergone malo-lactic fermentation or sparkling, with lingering aromas of baked apple crumble; the list is endless.
Indian white wines have gained ground, slowly but surely, plotting the evolving wine graph. Since the early 2000s, Chardonnay has trumped other grapes in favour of its pliant versatility.
Buoyant growth of Indian wines
The wine market in India was valued at $270.56 million in FY2024 and its value market size will increase above $977.02 million in FY2032, according to the India Wine Report 2024-2032 by International Market Analysis Research and Consulting (IMARC) Group. There are some strong drivers that are moving the needle here, such as increasing disposable income, changing lifestyles among urban consumers, particularly women who are seeking milder beverage options as opposed to distilled spirits and the definitive influence of travel. Another notable factor is that the country's sizeable Gen Z and Millennial population base of over 600 million that falls above the legal drinking age, are turning to wines as their drink of choice as it is also considered a status symbol.
In spite of the majority leaning towards reds, white wines which are lighter, represent 13% of the market, positioning themselves as a reprieve of sorts in the sweltering Indian summers.
One grape that has won the favour of urban Indian wine drinkers is Chardonnay, with its diverse range of profiles; from crisp and citrusy to well-rounded and buttery, and even sparkling. There is a promise with Chardonnay, and winemakers in India are up to alchemise the grape.
Indian Chardonnays: tracing back time to now
Chardonnay was believed to be first planted in Chablis in the 12th Century and is known for its truest expression of the terroir in France. Now it is grown wherever wine is produced, from California and New York in the US, Canada, Italy, South Africa to Australia and New Zealand.
Indian Chardonnays are having their moment. Since the early 2000s, the grape was met with a certain reluctance from local farmers. Chardonnay also had teething troubles due to the predominantly tropical climate here, which is not naturally suited for this cool climate grape variety.
'Since the early 2000s, it has gained popularity for a few reasons, primarily due to the climate adapted clone. The winemakers here in India have imported clones of Chardonnay which are heat tolerant, from warmer regions of Australia, California and France, better suited for Indian climatic conditions.' elaborates Krity Malhotra, Certified Sommelier & Lead Wine Trainer, Tulleeho.
Wine regions like Nashik and Bengaluru have higher elevation that provide cooler temperatures that Chardonnay enjoys. These regions do have tropical climate with wide diurnal temperature variations, which means that the temperatures in the daytime rise, but fall considerably at night creating a cooler clime for the grape to thrive.
Alessio Secci and Piero Masi planted their first Chardonnay vines in 2007 at Motewadi (50 acres), and Garwad (150 acres) in Maharashtra, 15 minutes from one another, and since then Fratelli has been making some good, drinkable Chardonnay. It is a crisp, straw-coloured wine with citrus notes a hint of white flowers, perfect for Indian summers. Fratelli then advanced its Chardonnay game with JCB No47, a sparkling wine produced in collaboration with Jean-Charles Boisset, a French vintner, who operates 28 wineries in California, France, and Canada.
Barrel-fermented Chardonnay grapes, with a long 24-month lees ageing period lends to this wine its rich, satiny mouthfeel and hints of fresh baked brioche shining through tropical notes. JCB No47 is a high quality single-vineyard wine, which thrives in Motewadi's sandy soil. Lees ageing is a winemaking technique where wine is left in contact with the dead yeast cells, or lees, after fermentation, which enhances the wine's flavour, texture, and aroma.
Sula's Dindori Reserve Chardonnay is aged in French oak barrels which lends to it, an unctuous and buttery smoothness, making this lemony white wine from Nashik Hills a bit rounder. Their first vintage in 2018 yielded 1,000 cases in production, from where the production has now amplified by leaps and bounds.
The KRSMA Chardonnay is light golden with a vivacious nose; delicately floral with stone fruit and citrus. The palate has notes of peach, pineapple, and vanilla with a fresh mouth feel which persists. You'll also detect smooth honey notes as it opens.
Food pairings that sing
When it comes to Indian food, pairings must be thought-through, because of the multifarious aspects like spices, nuances, techniques etc. 'I enjoy refreshing and crisp unoaked Chardonnays for their compatibility with a wide range of foods including Indian,' says Sonal Holland MW, Founder Director of Sonal C Holland Wine & Spirit Academy.
She adds, 'Unoaked Chardonnays work well with chicken tikka, pakoras, butter paneer or prawn koliwada as they are fruit forward and crisper. Oaked Chardonnays would pair well with coconut or cream-based dishes like Goan kaju curry, vegetable stew, mushroom xacuti, paneer korma, as those dishes are more layered.'
Hosa Goa has just launched their summer menu, and we tried pairing their Drakshi Goju, a Sago Yoghurt Rice with KRSMA Chardonnay. 'When pairing wine with South Indian dishes, especially those with tempered spices and tangy notes, it's important to choose wines that have bright acidity and are low in tannins. The inspiration behind Drakshi Goju comes from the comforting and nostalgic flavours of South Indian temple-style cooking or these are served at weddings, where sweet, sour, and spicy notes blend seamlessly. In our version, we use green grapes, which bring a refreshing tartness and juiciness that set the tone for a vibrant yet balanced dish. The tempering of mustard seeds, curry leaves, and a hint of chilli adds layers of warmth and complexity.' Says Chef Harish Rao of Hosa.
Neuma's mushroom pâté brûlée with a sheer, golden crust paired beautifully with JCB No47, the umami creaminess syncing with the buttery wine notes, retained from the lees contact. JCB No. 47 is a sparkling wine, characterized by its dryness and mineral-driven profile, which sharply cuts through the unctuousness of the dish, highlighting aromas of green apple, tropical fruit, and brioche.
Way forward
India's growing wine culture asked for international-style wines. Companies like Sula, Fratelli, Grover and KRSMA answered that call.
Overall, it led to improved viticultural techniques like canopy management, drip irrigation, harvest timing adjustments, packaging, storing and transport. All of this has translated to some noteworthy Chardonnays. Take the award-winning, Sula Dindori Reserve Chardonnay, from the depths of Nashik, with a burst of ripe mango, guava, citrus notes, restrained with the roundedness of oak.
While these Chardonnays have given one reason to sit up and take notice, it will be worth the watch and keep a pulse on the momentum.