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Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Charlottesville, Virginia
When Thomas Jefferson founded the nation's first public university in Charlottesville, Virginia, he was probably thinking about democratically advancing human knowledge rather than establishing the formula for an excellent college-town vacation getaway. But, just under three driving hours southwest from DC—past stunning Shenandoah National Park, with the Blue Ridge Mountain foothills in the distance—Charlottesville is perhaps the original in this category, and remains an overachiever.
With just under 50,000 residents, tucked-away Charlottesville has the winery and restaurant scene of a much larger city, with tons of things to do and so much of the history of the nation. Though the mountain backdrop provides rugged hikes nearby, the metro's historical walking paths are accessible to everyone and just as rich. This is Thomas Jefferson country: Monticello. In addition to serving as the nation's third president, Jefferson was a scientist, philosopher, and architect of his beloved home base. The UNESCO World Heritage Site's excellent walking trail passes the cemetery where Jefferson is buried, the grounds where he studied, and the hilltop of his grand home. The house includes the living and working spaces of the 400 enslaved people who built and ran the Jefferson house and plantation, and archival work has expand this narrative and offers a close look at Jefferson's own contradictions—making it an even more fascinating visit.
The third US president also designed the University of Virginia campus in the city proper in 1819, its paths exploring quiet nooks and sprawling lawns populated with young minds and loping professors, plus that air of change. A new Memorial to Enslaved Laborers honors the individuals and families who built and sustained everyday university life. Nearby, a downtown street memorializes Heather Heyer, killed while protesting white nationalists who'd come here to rally against the removal of a confederate statue in 2017. In Charlottesville, the contradictions of history are quiet—but present.
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