Has West copied Indian fashion before Prada's Kohlapuri saga? The answer is yes
When Prada recently sent out models wearing Kolhapuri-style chappals on the runway, it sparked quite the buzz. But if you think this was the first time a Western luxury brand took inspiration from India, think again. Prada's sandals are just one in a long list of fashion moments where the West has quietly borrowed and sometimes blatantly copied from Indian traditions.advertisementPRADA'S KOLHAPURI: FAMILIER VIBES, LUXURY PRICEThe buzz started when Italian luxury house Prada showcased leather slippers that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals, open-toe, T-strap sandals that have been worn across India for centuries. The real difference? The label.While traditional Kolhapuris sell for under Rs 500, Prada's version can go well above Rs 80,000. Social media was quick to react, with many calling it another case of 'glorified copying' by the West.JEAN PAUL GAULTIER'S INDIAN OBSESSION? SAREES, NATH, AND SWAGGER
Before luxury labels like Prada or Louis Vuitton even flirted with Indian fashion, Jean Paul Gaultier was already having a full-blown desi romance. In 2017, his runway models sashayed in saree-inspired ensembles complete with the iconic Indian nath, a nod to both ancient maharajas and modern brides.And back in 2012, he sent turbaned male models down the catwalk, followed by a Rajasthan-meets-runway collection in 2013 that could've easily been titled 'Bollywood meets Paris Fashion Week.'CHANEL'S PARIS–BOMBAY FANTASY: A MAHARAJA'S DREAM IN GOLDadvertisementKarl Lagerfeld's 2011 pre-fall show was less fashion show, more fever dream. Grand Palais turned into a glittering Indian palace, and out came models in sari-draped couture, oversised jewels, and gold-dusted everything.GALLIANO'S SAREE MOMENT: DRAPED IN DRAMAWay before Alia Bhatt made headlines at Cannes in a Gucci saree-ish gown, John Galliano had already tried wrapping his mind and his models around the nine-yard wonder. His Spring 2003 collection played with Indian silhouettes in that wild, theatrical way only Galliano can.LOUIS VUITTON'S INDIAN AFFAIR: KURTAS AND SHOW SETSEarlier this year, Louis Vuitton's Men's Fall-Winter 2025 show, led by creative director Pharrell Williams, featured designs inspired by Indian silhouettes, think structured kurtas, nehru-collar jackets, and even an elaborate show set by Indian architect Bijoy Jain.The entire collection paid homage to India, but again, the conversation turned to appropriation vs appreciation.DIOR IN MUMBAI AND BEYONDIn 2023, Dior hosted a grand pre-fall show in Mumbai, collaborating with artisans from the Chanakya atelier and showcasing Indian embroidery. It was a rare occasion where Indian craftsmanship wasn't just behind the scenes, it was front and centre.But again, it reminded everyone that Indian handiwork has long powered Western fashion houses, in this cas yes but sometimes without always being acknowledged.INDIA IS A GO-TO FASHION MUSEadvertisementIt's not hard to see why India keeps showing up in Western collections. The country has centuries of textile history, techniques like block printing, zardozi, and handloom weaving that are visually rich and incredibly versatile.But what often irks many fashion enthusiasts is that these designs are repackaged and sold at sky-high prices without crediting their roots.From paisley prints to bandhgalas, mirror work to tie-dye (known in India as bandhani), Indian aesthetics have been sprinkled throughout fashion weeks in Paris and Milan. And while collaborations are welcome, the lack of clear cultural credit often dulls the sparkle.- EndsTrending Reel
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