THE CANNY COOK: Watercress soup
From now until autumn we are spoilt for choice with British produce, and I always picture it in my head as a progression of colours. May and June are all about the greens with lots of verdant leaves, the first peep of podded peas and broad beans, asparagus, fennel and willowy fresh herbs. When July arrives it brings with it a flash of bright red berries and plump, juicy tomatoes. Then, by August and September, the spectrum opens up to vibrant sweetcorn, inky blackberries and aubergines as well as sun-blushed peaches and nectarines. There's much to look forward to, but for now we should focus on the greens.
Every year, on the third Sunday in May, there's a festival in the Hampshire town of Alresford to celebrate the start of watercress season (see watercressfestival.org and our feature about it at dailymail.co.uk/you). I think it is a wonderful leaf that we should be proud of. It grows mainly in Hampshire and Dorset in waterlogged soil and is often praised for being rich in vitamins and minerals. With a distinctive peppery flavour, a tangle of its leaves will liven up any salad, while pairing it with lentils and hot smoked salmon is a fine option. It also makes great pesto, although the British classics of watercress soup and chicken and watercress sandwiches are a highlight of my spring menu.
2 x 80g bags watercress, £3; 300g potato, 25p
METHOD
Heat a knob of butter and a splash of cooking oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Roughly chop the onion and sweat with a good pinch of salt for 5 minutes until starting to soften.
Rinse the potato, then chop into small chunks (don't bother to peel unless the skin is gnarly) and add to the pan. Sprinkle in another pinch of salt and fry for 6-7 minutes.
Add the watercress and fry for a couple of minutes until wilted, then pour in 750ml chicken or vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer and cook for 7-8 minutes or until the potatoes are completely soft.
Leave the soup to cool a little before whizzing in a blender (or use a stick blender) with the cream until completely smooth. Check the seasoning (adding salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice if you have it) and serve in bowls, hot or cold, with an extra swirl of cream.
*This cost assumes you already have some basic store-cupboard ingredients. prices taken from aldi and correct at time of going to press.
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