How Cloudy Bay Is Rethinking Sauvignon Blanc Wine After 40 Years

Forbes

02-05-2025

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, known for its bright acidity and citrus-driven profile, helped put New Zealand wine on the global map.
Josh Griggs
For many American wine drinkers, the brand name Cloudy Bay is often synonymous with sauvignon blanc. Its debut vintage in 1985 helped New Zealand's Marlborough region on the global wine map, setting a standard that redefined the category.
Over the last four decades, its crisp, aromatic style has become nearly synonymous with New Zealand white wine. But as the winery marks its 40th anniversary, it faces new challenges: aging vines, shifting climate patterns and increasing competition in a market it once dominated.
John Flanagan, viticulture director at Cloudy Bay, says vine age is becoming a crucial factor.
'As vines age, their productivity changes. In the early days, many of the people growing fruit trees didn't necessarily have extensive experience with grapevines,' Flanagan says. 'It was a learning process, and over time, vineyard management techniques improved. Now, as some of our older vines become less productive, we occasionally leave blocks fallow for a few years to rejuvenate the soil before replanting.'
The replanting process allows for adjustments in vineyard management, something Cloudy Bay is constantly evaluating.
'Our philosophy is to work as naturally as possible while understanding the impact of various techniques on flavor,' Flanagan says. 'One factor we're particularly focused on is how changes in vineyard management affect the flavor profile of sauvignon blanc. We experiment with subtle variations in canopy management and soil health to enhance the quality of our fruit while maintaining the distinctive character of our style.'
Cloudy Bay's flagship tasting room in Marlborough, New Zealand.
Josh Griggs
Marlborough's terroir on the northeast tip top of the South Island of New Zealand remains essential to that style. The region's vineyards now cover approximately 27,000 hectares, producing 70% of all New Zealand wine. Cloudy Bay's sauvignon blanc vines sit across three subregions: Rapaura, Renwick and Brancott Valley. Almost all are planted in coarse, free-draining gravelly soils.
Sauvignon blanc remains the dominant grape planted in New Zealand, accounting for 71% of total wine production and 85% of wine exported, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers industrial body. Marlborough plays an even greater role, encompassing 72% of the country's total vineyard area, with sauvignon blanc covering 25,157 hectares.
But the market has seen disruptions. New Zealand wine exports dropped by nearly a quarter in volume and 22% in value during the latter half of 2023, signaling shifts in global demand. At the same time, the valuation of vineyard land in New Zealand has adjusted, dropping to $283,000 NZD ($159,245 USD) per hectare in June 2024, reflecting changing costs and profitability within the industry. These trends underscore the importance of long-term planning as producers, including Cloudy Bay, adapt to market fluctuations.
Cloudy Bay's approach to sustainability is another factor shaping its future. Hannah Ternent, the winery's technical viticulturist, says that Widow's Vineyard—originally purchased by champagne house and fellow LVMH subsidiary Veuve Clicquot in the early 1990s—has become a model for sustainable practices.
'One of our primary focuses has been eliminating herbicides and moving towards a more natural system that supports biodiversity while maintaining soil health,' Ternent explains. That strategy includes inter-row cropping to plant flowering species that attract beneficial insects. 'By fostering a balanced ecosystem, we can reduce reliance on synthetic pesticides, allowing the vineyard to regulate itself more effectively.'
Cloudy Bay has moved away from wooden vineyard posts, opting for recycled plastic posts that have a longer lifespan and can be fully recycled. The winery has also adopted underground irrigation to reduce evaporation and encourage deeper root growth. 'This method not only conserves water but also improves vine resilience, making them more adaptable to climate fluctuations.'
The Richmond Range rises behind Cloudy Bay winery in New Zealand's Marlborough region, honored on the brand's label shipped around the world.
Cloudy Bay
Technological advancements also play a role. Another major initiative at Widow's Vineyard is the use of BioScout technology, an advanced AI-driven disease detection system.
'This system continuously monitors airborne fungal spores, allowing us to detect potential disease outbreaks before symptoms appear,' Ternent says. 'This means we can implement highly targeted treatments rather than broad-spectrum applications, drastically reducing chemical use.'
As Cloudy Bay marks its 40th anniversary, the winery is balancing tradition with these adaptations. The global wine market has changed. So has Marlborough. But sauvignon blanc remains its foundation.
'Every vintage teaches us something new,' says Cloudy Bay winemaker Kelly Stuart. 'And our ongoing sustainability efforts ensure that we can continue crafting exceptional wines for years to come.'