After a record 31st time scaling Mt Everest, is Kami Rita Sherpa the greatest mountaineer of all time?

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Kami Rita Sherpa has reached the summit of Mount Everest for a record 31st time, leading an Indian Army team to the top this month. With over three decades of climbing and a summit count unmatched in history, is the legendary Nepali guide now the greatest mountaineer the world has ever seen? read more
Kami Rita Sherpa, a Nepali mountaineer, waves towards the media personnel upon his arrival after climbing Mount Everest for the 28th time, creating a new record for the most summits of the world's highest mountain, in Kathmandu, Nepal, May 25, 2023. File Image/Reuters
In the early hours of May 27, 2025, at 4:00 am (local time), a legendary Sherpa guide once again stood at top of the world… quite literally.
Kami Rita Sherpa, aged 55, reached the 8,849-meter summit of Mount Everest for a record-breaking 31st time, surpassing the record he himself had set last year.
This milestone ascent was made while leading a team of 22 Indian Army personnel, accompanied by 27 other Sherpa guides, as part of an expedition organised by Seven Summit Treks.
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Having turned back just days earlier due to adverse weather conditions, Kami Rita's successful climb marked a triumph of perseverance, expertise, and resilience — qualities that have defined his three-decade-long career in Himalayan mountaineering.
Three decades at the roof of the world
Born in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal, Kami Rita grew up in the shadow of the mountains. His father was among the early Sherpas to work as a mountain guide, laying the foundation for what would become a generational legacy.
Kami Rita followed in his footsteps and embarked on his first successful Everest expedition in 1994, at the age of 24, as part of a commercial guiding mission.
Since then, Kami Rita has scaled the world's tallest mountain almost every year, with the exception of three years when climbing was suspended due to natural disasters or administrative closures.
In some years, he has completed the formidable climb twice within a single season — including in both 2023 and 2024.
Beyond Everest, his mountaineering résumé includes K2, Lhotse, Manaslu and Cho Oyu — some of the most technically demanding and perilous peaks in the world. Each successful climb adds to a remarkable body of work that cements his status as one of the most experienced high-altitude guides in history.
'He is a very passionate climber,' said Pasang Phurba, director at Seven Summit Treks.
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'He is not just a national climbing hero, but a global symbol of Everest itself,' the expedition agency added in a statement.
Why Kami Rita's feats are extraordinary
When measured cumulatively, Kami Rita's 31 ascents of Mount Everest represent an extraordinary feat of physical endurance and logistical precision.
Based on Everest's current elevation of 8,849 meters (29,032 feet), his total vertical gain on this single mountain alone adds up to approximately 89,992 feet, or over 17 miles above sea level — equivalent to climbing into the Earth's stratosphere, according to NPR.
This astounding statistic is not just a testament to his physical capabilities, but also to the mental strength required to operate in an oxygen-deprived, high-risk environment year after year.
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Despite the fame and accolades that accompany his achievements, Kami Rita has consistently highlighted the functional nature of his work. 'I am glad for the record, but records are eventually broken,' he told AFP in May last year. 'I am more happy that my climbs help Nepal be recognised in the world.'
Will anyone eclipse Kami Rita?
As Kami Rita continues to push the boundaries of mountaineering, other Sherpas are also making their mark on the mountain. His closest peer in terms of summit count is Pasang Dawa Sherpa, who has climbed Everest 29 times.
Pasang Dawa began summiting Everest a few years after Kami Rita but has also completed multiple double-summit seasons.
A rising force in the Sherpa community is Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, who accomplished a remarkable four ascents in just 15 days during this year's season, reported The Himalayan Times.
At 29 years old and with eight Everest summits under his belt, he is fast becoming a mountaineer to watch.
Another young climber making headlines is Nima Rinji Sherpa, who in 2023 became the youngest person to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks at just 18 years of age.
Nima Rinji has expressed ambitions of completing future climbs without supplementary oxygen or fixed ropes — an effort to write his own chapter in mountaineering history.
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Among international climbers, Kenton Cool, a British mountain guide, holds the record for most Everest summits by a non-Sherpa, with 19 successful ascents.
Americans Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison are tied in second place among foreign climbers, each with 15 summits to their names.
How Everest is getting crowded
The 2025 spring climbing season has been especially intense. Nepal's Department of Tourism issued 468 climbing permits for Everest this year, slightly below the record 479 permits issued in 2023.
When accounting for Sherpa guides — typically assigned on a one-to-one basis with clients — the number of people attempting to reach the summit this season has exceeded 1,000, reported The Kathmandu Post.
Already, more than 500 climbers and their guides have successfully summitted Everest this spring, even as the season begins to wind down. Climbing activity is concentrated during the months of April and May, when the Himalayan weather allows for safer windows of opportunity.
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Yet, increased footfall on the mountain has brought renewed concerns regarding overcrowding, waste management and the environmental impact on this fragile ecosystem.
Last year, officials introduced a policy requiring climbers to collect their own excreta and return it to base camp for disposal — an unusual but necessary measure aimed at preserving the environment of Everest's higher camps.
How mountaineering is a lifeline for Nepal's Sherpas
Nepal is home to eight of the world's 14 highest peaks, and mountaineering plays a crucial role in the nation's economy.
For Sherpas like Kami Rita, guiding expeditions is not just a passion but a livelihood.
From Battlefields to #MountEverest- Every Mission Accomplished
22 Indian Army Mountaineers, under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Bhanoo Pathak, have today successfully scaled Mount Everest (8,848m) — a remarkable testament to grit, courage and indomitable spirit.
Their… pic.twitter.com/elhcTNLQ2J — ADG PI - INDIAN ARMY (@adgpi) May 27, 2025
The seasonal climbing industry generates vital income for thousands of families in the highlands.
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Despite the inherent risks, Sherpas continue to be the lifeblood of Himalayan climbing. They are responsible not only for guiding clients but also for carrying supplies, fixing ropes, and ensuring the safety of expeditions under extreme and unpredictable conditions.
More than 8,000 people have now summitted Everest since it was first climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.
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With inputs from agencies