As Bolivia celebrates its main Andean festival, it feels the pain of mounting crises

San Francisco Chronicle​

13 hours ago

LA PAZ, Bolivia (AP) — Bolivia's largest Andean religious festival has long inspired joyous revelry and offered a chance for the nation to forget about its perpetual political turmoil and escape into the world of its rich folklore.
But this year on Saturday, Bolivians say the day of the Great Power, the beloved carnival dedicated to a 17th-century painting of Jesus Christ, reflects more than distracts from the country's spiraling economic and political crises.
The typically exuberant crowd fell silent for a few moments on Saturday before the folk dance performance kicked off in the major city of La Paz, paying their respects to the victims of fierce clashes between protesters and police last Thursday that left six people dead, among them four police officers and two civilians.
The second civilian, identified by protesters as a young student beaten by police, had been hospitalized and succumbed to his wounds on Saturday, just before the festival.
After Bolivia's electoral tribunal disqualified former President Evo Morales, a leftist political titan who still wields influence in the country's tropical heartland, from running in Bolivia's August presidential election, his loyalists took to the streets to vent their outrage earlier this month.
Many of them, both peaceful and violent, have reported being bruised and beaten by officers in recent days. The government sent military tanks to the streets of Llallagua, in central Bolivia.
La Paz municipal authorities proposed postponing the festival, citing the 'pain of the Bolivian people." But organizers refused, pointing to the $68 million that was expected to be generated Saturday – a shot of stimulus into a sputtering economy now witnessing its worst crisis in 40 years.
The annual festival, which takes place some eight weeks after Easter, was recognized by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee for displaying the nation's unique mix of Roman Catholic belief and Indigenous heritage.
The ceremony pays tribute to what is believed to be a miraculous rendering of Jesus Christ — El Señor del Gran Poder, or The Lord of the Great Power — that shows the Christian savior with Indigenous Andean features and outstretched arms.
Dancing in the festival is a holy act of spiritual devotion as dancers pray for personal forgiveness and salvation. This year, however, many turned their prayers on a more immediate target.
"Devotees are asking for economic recovery, as well as for peace and unity among Bolivians in this time,' said a priest leading the ceremony, Father Saul Mamani.
Economic strain was visible at Saturday's giant party as participants pared down their usually elaborate costumes and masks and dancers traded their traditional gold jewelry for Chinese-made knock-offs.
'The price of my costume went up by 60%," said dancer Jorge Rodríguez, 37. 'Many haven't been able to dance, almost half of my group didn't come."
Organizers could only afford to hire some 70,000 dancers — some 20,000 fewer than last year — and scrapped their usual plans to invite regionally renowned musicians.
Every year, one of La Paz's wealthy merchants, or 'qamiris," gets the expensive honor of paying more than anyone else for Gran Poder. This year, the unlucky merchant, Edgar Apaza, said he had been saving all year and his budget was still tighter than ever before.
'The crisis is affecting everyone,' Apaza said.
Inflation in Bolivia over the first five months of 2025 hit 9.81%, the highest rate in more than a decade, according to official figures, fueling public protests over President Luis Arce's handling of the economy and leaving many Bolivians struggling to buy even the basics.
Plácida Quispe, 73, an embroiderer at the festival Saturday, said there wasn't enough demand to sell her colorful costumes this year. She said she would rent her handiwork to participants instead.
'There is no business,' she said. 'People want to celebrate, but they cannot afford to pay the price.'