The sleepy Austrian village to visit for a fairytale getaway

Independent

28-03-2025

Recently, the well-heeled Viennese set have been flocking to the charming village of Schwarzenberg in the heart of Austria 's Bregenzerwald region. The attraction? The newly renovated Hotel Hirschen, a boutique spa hotel that has breathed fresh energy into this pretty enclave, while remaining true to its centuries-old heritage.
Situated in the idyllic town square opposite a baroque church, Hotel Hirschen was established in the 1700s and still stands proud today. Steeped in tradition, recently the hotel completed works to a design-led 'bathhouse spa', complete with 15-metre outdoor swimming pool that's heated year-round. All sleek glass and wood, the spa allows guests to effortlessly move between the sauna and pool.
Strolling through Schwarzenberg feels like stepping into a 19th-century painting: timber chalets with intricately carved facades line the quiet streets, their shingled roofs catching the afternoon light. These houses, built using traditional techniques, are part of what makes Schwarzenberg so unique: they reflect a deep respect for craftsmanship that has defined the region for centuries.
Although appearing sleepy at first, this stillness is a veil for a profound charm and historical importance. Renowned 18th-century artist Angelika Kauffmann, the famous Neoclassical painter, never forgot her family roots in the Bregenzerwald region despite achieving international fame. Kauffmann was one of the founding members of the Royal Academy of Arts in London, and the museum, housed in a beautifully restored farmhouse in the village, is dedicated to her art.
Situated in the region Vorarlberg of western Austria, nestled in a valley between Lake Constance and the Arlberg mountain range, Schwarzenberg is one of 23 idyllic villages that sit in the Bregenzerwald region. This is storybook Austria – all snow-capped alpine hills and rolling wildflower meadows.
Food in Schwarzenberg is a serious affair. Every morning you will find queues of locals waiting to be served at the Käslädele Maria Vögel, a family-run business specialising in local fare. A few steps down into the cellar and you will find yourself surrounded by local delicacies including homemade jams, honey from local beekeepers, and mountain cheeses.
Anyone particularly passionate about cheese can follow the Käsestraße Bregenzerwald (Cheese Route). In a region famous for dairy farming and cheese production, particularly Bregenzerwälder Bergkäse, the Cheese Route is a network of farms, dairies and restaurants where visitors can sample and learn about traditional cheese-making. In the surrounding hills, mountain huts offer rustic lunches of homemade bread, smoked sausages and alpine butter – perfect fuel for a day of exploring.
For those with a sweet tooth, Café Angelikahöhe is a charming spot for an afternoon break. Its signature Apfelstrudel, served with a generous dollop of freshly whipped cream, is the kind of thing you'll dream about long after you've left.
In the evenings, Hotel Hirschen becomes a gastronomic hotspot thanks to a kitchen team led by Jonathan Burger and Raphaela Wirrer, who have been awarded a green Michelin star for sustainability. For a more rustic affair and just a short walk away, you'll find Gasthof Adler serving up hearty classics like venison stew and käsespätzle (Austria's answer to macaroni cheese), all made with locally sourced ingredients.
Beyond Schwarzenberg, the villages of Mellau, Schoppernau, and Bezau, among others, combine the charm of centuries-old wooden houses with avant-garde designs by local architects. The Umgang Bregenzerwald trail connects 12 of the villages, offering insight into the region's architectural heritage and sustainable design philosophy. These trails, adorned with discreet markers, unveil stories of how locals have lived in harmony with their environment for generations.
For the more adventurous visitors, a trip to the Rappenloch Gorge is a highlight. Open from April to November, this dramatic natural wonder near Dornbirn, is a rocky gorge, featuring wooden walkways and bridges leading through stunning rock formations, waterfalls, and lush forest.
Located in nearby Andelsbuch, Werkraum Bregenzerwald is a collective of local craftsmen housed in a minimalist glass and wood building – it's a must-visit for design and architecture lovers. The modern exhibition space showcases the region's finest furniture makers, weavers, and artisans.
A fascinating way to spend an afternoon is at the Frauenmuseum in nearby Hittisau. As Austria's only women's museum, this thought-provoking institution focuses on the history, culture, and achievements of women, with regularly changing exhibitions. Founded in 2000 and a cultural landmark in the Bregenzerwald region, the museum explores topics such as women's rights, female craftsmanship, and social roles across different cultures and eras.
In winter, the nearby Bödele ski area provides a more intimate alternative to Austria's mega-resorts, with quiet slopes and breathtaking views over Lake Constance. A 30-minute drive from Bödele you will find the snow lover's paradise, Damüls-Mellau. It's a haven for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts, and cross-country skiing and guided snowshoe hikes allow visitors to explore the quiet beauty of the valleys and mountain paths.
How to get there
Zurich and the Swiss border lie to the west of Bregenzerwald, the vibrant city of Innsbruck to the east, and Munich to the north – all have international airports. Both British Airways and easyJet operate flights from London (Heathrow and Gatwick) to Munich, Zurich and Innsbruck during the winter months. Public transport is excellent in the area, but a rental car is advisable to help explore fully. For more information visit bregenzerwald.at.